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Philharmonic Audio - Dennis Murphy - Page 110

post #3271 of 4614
That sounds fine, all I'll say is that for comparable wire gauge and length it's about 50% cheaper from monoprice. Other than that good luck biggrin.gif
post #3272 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzz092888 View Post

I do. I use banana plugs for both the speakers and the receiver/amp. I've used monoprice banana plugs, but didn't really like them that much. I switched over to silverback banana plugs and really liked them, but didn't like how their was so much space between the wire and the silver barrel. The next plugs I try will probably be GLS banana plugs. They are the most expensive of the three mentioned, but from the looks and the specs I think they'll end up being my favorite.
Don't misunderstand me, I've never had any issues with the silverback or mono price and both work really well. I just like how the GLS combines the double screw feature of the silverback with a tighter fitting barrel.
FWIW
http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Silverback-Banana-Plugs-Pieces/dp/B005BT2KJE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346453315&sr=8-1&keywords=silverback+banana+plugs
hHttp://www.speakerrepair.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=genem&Category_Code=AHH_Banana

Hey Alex, how's it going brother. I didn't care for the Silverbacks for that same reason and felt they were a bit fragile and the set screws stripped fairly easy when tightening. I use both of these on all my cables with the locking bananas on the receiver/amp end and they accept 10 gauge wire also from BJC, they offer welded terminated cables also. I see ADTG is here also biggrin.gif My fans will be here tomorrow, thanks again wink.gif
Jeff

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/speaker/index.htm
post #3273 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by jomama View Post

a quick wiring question for you folks - with my monitors on order with dennis, now i'm looking to get some wires for my speakers and amp. that being said, i believe i need a pair of rca cables to go from the player/converter to the amp, and then speaker wires to run from the amp to the speakers. what have you guys used? i'm particularly interested in what brand (monoprice ok?) of wires and plugs. i've exchanged messages with woodsart and he mentioned 12 gauge, and that he uses bluejeans for certain applications. i don't mean to start a debate of what's worth it and what's not - just interested in hearing about what you have used for your phils or other speakers, and what your experiences have been. thanks in advance.

My favorite speaker wire:
http://www.altex.com/Pro-Sound-102-OFC-Speaker-Wire-100-SP-10GIANT-100-P144254.aspx
Keep in mind, it's NOT rated for in-wall installations.
Pros:
1) True 10 AWG. No problems with any loads and cable runs in lengths suitable for home use
2) One of the most flexible 10AWG cables I've come across. Far more flexible than the 12AWG from Home Depot.

Favorite terminations:
http://www.amazon.com/QuickLock-MKII-Connectors-Crimping-Terminations/dp/B000WXAX6G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346463303&sr=8-1&keywords=monster+banana+plugs
Yeah, yeah, I know.... Monster...
That said though, they're actually well made. Love the fact that there are no set screws to strip, or lose, or loosen. Easy to install with bare hands (and wire strippers of course), and will accept 10 AWG cable (although you can't insert the cable above without stripping the jacket off first. 12 gauge will fit with typical diameter jackets, but with the 10AWG, you need to strip off a longer section of the jacket so just the twisted copper is inserted).

The installation/insertion when properly set is VERY strong. Much stronger than I've achieved with set screws (i.e. the cable will NEVER pull out of the Monster QuickLock connectors unless the copper strands actually break). Although I never plug/unplug cables with the equipment running, the insulators are plastic/rubber so they won't easily short anything out by coming into contact with each other unlike some all metal banana plugs.

In addition, once you've inserted the cable into the back half of the terminations, you can simply and easily change the TYPE of termination (from Banana to Spade, to Flex Tip) simply by unscrewing the front half with the terminal connector on it and swapping it for another type.

Sewell sells something similar (and a lot cheaper, but as with many things, sometimes cheaper is a compromise). The difference between the Monster version and the cheaper Sewell version is that the Monster version has a taper on the internal barrel from the bigger hole where the cable is inserted to the smaller hole where the copper comes out and is bent over the toothed end (the front end is then screwed down over this to crimp the copper down stopping it from being pulled out of the plugs). The Sewell conectors on the other hand have a step instead of a taper, i.e. when pushing the copper through (especially with thicker gauge cable like the 10AWG) the copper can snag on the step/lip as opposed to the taper inside the Monster plugs which allows the copper to slide through.


Max
post #3274 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahblaza View Post

Hey Alex, how's it going brother. I didn't care for the Silverbacks for that same reason and felt they were a bit fragile and the set screws stripped fairly easy when tightening. I use both of these on all my cables with the locking bananas on the receiver/amp end and they accept 10 gauge wire also from BJC, they offer welded terminated cables also. I see ADTG is here also biggrin.gif My fans will be here tomorrow, thanks again wink.gif
Jeff
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/speaker/index.htm

Those BJC banana's look pretty nice thanks for the heads up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by djbluemax1 View Post

My favorite speaker wire:
http://www.altex.com/Pro-Sound-102-OFC-Speaker-Wire-100-SP-10GIANT-100-P144254.aspx
Keep in mind, it's NOT rated for in-wall installations.
Pros:
1) True 10 AWG. No problems with any loads and cable runs in lengths suitable for home use
2) One of the most flexible 10AWG cables I've come across. Far more flexible than the 12AWG from Home Depot.
Favorite terminations:
http://www.amazon.com/QuickLock-MKII-Connectors-Crimping-Terminations/dp/B000WXAX6G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346463303&sr=8-1&keywords=monster+banana+plugs
Yeah, yeah, I know.... Monster...
That said though, they're actually well made. Love the fact that there are no set screws to strip, or lose, or loosen. Easy to install with bare hands (and wire strippers of course), and will accept 10 AWG cable (although you can't insert the cable above without stripping the jacket off first. 12 gauge will fit with typical diameter jackets, but with the 10AWG, you need to strip off a longer section of the jacket so just the twisted copper is inserted).
The installation/insertion when properly set is VERY strong. Much stronger than I've achieved with set screws (i.e. the cable will NEVER pull out of the Monster QuickLock connectors unless the copper strands actually break). Although I never plug/unplug cables with the equipment running, the insulators are plastic/rubber so they won't easily short anything out by coming into contact with each other unlike some all metal banana plugs.
In addition, once you've inserted the cable into the back half of the terminations, you can simply and easily change the TYPE of termination (from Banana to Spade, to Flex Tip) simply by unscrewing the front half with the terminal connector on it and swapping it for another type.
Sewell sells something similar (and a lot cheaper, but as with many things, sometimes cheaper is a compromise). The difference between the Monster version and the cheaper Sewell version is that the Monster version has a taper on the internal barrel from the bigger hole where the cable is inserted to the smaller hole where the copper comes out and is bent over the toothed end (the front end is then screwed down over this to crimp the copper down stopping it from being pulled out of the plugs). The Sewell conectors on the other hand have a step instead of a taper, i.e. when pushing the copper through (especially with thicker gauge cable like the 10AWG) the copper can snag on the step/lip as opposed to the taper inside the Monster plugs which allows the copper to slide through.
Max

The ten gauge wire is nice, and is a good price, although is overkill for most situations. You really only need cable like that for kilowatt+ power or really long runs, but hey they extra width can't hurt either biggrin.gif

I've used the monster ones you linked to before and found them to be ok, but nothing special IMO. No better than the monoprice ones anyways that do the same thing. I really like the screw ones better and if you're careful I don't know why you would ever strip them, but to each his own.
post #3275 of 4614
Got my Phil2. Tried to set it up in the long weekend. Still fine tune the setup. First impression was very positive. These speakers are so relax, never feel any strain at any volume, and the soundstage! I do have a couple of questions for Dennis, or anyone like to share:
(1) Right now I have the Phil2 sitting directly on my carpet floor, and I can feel they are not quite stable on the carpet, a bit shaky when I push the speaker on its side. Do you think adding speaker spikes a good idea? bad idea? or doesn't matter?
(2) Is the Phil2 designed and tuned with the grill on or off? I can feel the difference in high frequency when the top grill on vs off. Do you guys listen with grill on or off? For my situation, I'd like to put the grills on as I have kids around the house. Seems like the RAAL tweeter is quite sensitive, or the grill is not quite acoustic transparent?
Edited by avdigger - 9/4/12 at 9:47am
post #3276 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by avdigger View Post

Got my Phil2. Tried to set it up in the long weekend. Still fine tune the setup. First impression was very positive. These speakers are so relax, never feel any strain at any volume, and the soundstage! I do have a couple of questions for Dennis, or anyone like to share:
(1) Right now I have the Phil2 sitting directly on my carpet floor, and I can feel they are not quite stable on the carpet, a bit shaky when I push the speaker on its side. Do you think adding speaker spikes a good idea? bad idea? or doesn't matter?
(2) Is the Phil2 designed and tuned with the grill on or off? I can feel the difference in high frequency when the top grill on vs off. Do you guys listen with grill on or off? For my situation, I'd like to put the grills on as I have kids around the house. Seems like the RAAL tweeter is quite sensitive, or the grill is not quite acoustic transparent?

I have mine on carpet and I don't feel that they are unstable. Actually I added some carpet sliders not too long ago so now they glide smile.gif

Somewhere in this thread (I think it was this thread) I think Dennis said if you order grills he tunes them flat with them on. However he always recommends that they be off for the best sound. Personally I think they sound a bit stifled with the grills on, but that doesn't go over real well with the lady of the house biggrin.gif
post #3277 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by avdigger View Post

Got my Phil2. Tried to set it up in the long weekend. Still fine tune the setup. First impression was very positive. These speakers are so relax, never feel any strain at any volume, and the soundstage! I do have a couple of questions for Dennis, or anyone like to share:
(1) Right now I have the Phil2 sitting directly on my carpet floor, and I can feel they are not quite stable on the carpet, a bit shaky when I push the speaker on its side. Do you think adding speaker spikes a good idea? bad idea? or doesn't matter?
(2) Is the Phil2 designed and tuned with the grill on or off? I can feel the difference in high frequency when the top grill on vs off. Do you guys listen with grill on or off? For my situation, I'd like to put the grills on as I have kids around the house. Seems like the RAAL tweeter is quite sensitive, or the grill is not quite acoustic transparent?

Mine are on carpet and they are extremely stable. No need for spikes.

I listen with the grilles on. No difference to me in SQ.

Do you use room correction or any EQ or DSP? I bypass all that. I listen to 2.1 stereo mode, bypassing Audyssey and any EQ & DSP.
post #3278 of 4614
Howdy Glad to hear those puppies survived the usual Fed Ex Football games. Spikes or gliders probably wouldn't hurt. I;ve heard good things about Herbie's Big Fat Gliders. There is one issue, though. The bottom of the cabinet is 3/4" thick, and the crossover is attached to the bottom plate.
So you can't use any hardware that will penetrate that bottom plate. The 2's were definitely voiced for nude playback--the grill does mess up the response, and as you've probably noticed, doesn't fit very well. Plus, you can't use the foam diffuser pads, and the flattest response is achieved with one mounted at the top of the tweeter baffle. The tweeter and midrange already have protective coverings, so you shouldn't need the grill for that. The woofer grill doesn't affect the sound at all, however, and actually fits. So by all means use that. Cheers
post #3279 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahblaza View Post

I see ADTG is here also biggrin.gif

Yeah, AH & AVS are the only 2 forums I frequent. biggrin.gif

Are you getting the Phil's ?
post #3280 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by AcuDefTechGuy View Post

Mine are on carpet and they are extremely stable. No need for spikes.
I listen with the grilles on. No difference to me in SQ.
Do you use room correction or any EQ or DSP? I bypass all that. I listen to 2.1 stereo mode, bypassing Audyssey and any EQ & DSP.


The magnetic grills for the Phil 3 are less invasive than the klunkier peg-and-hole grills for the Phil 2. The larger surface area of the Phil 3's may also make them more stable than the Phil 2's.
post #3281 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Murphy View Post

Howdy Glad to hear those puppies survived the usual Fed Ex Football games. Spikes or gliders probably wouldn't hurt. I;ve heard good things about Herbie's Big Fat Gliders. There is one issue, though. The bottom of the cabinet is 3/4" thick, and the crossover is attached to the bottom plate.
So you can't use any hardware that will penetrate that bottom plate. The 2's were definitely voiced for nude playback--the grill does mess up the response, and as you've probably noticed, doesn't fit very well. Plus, you can't use the foam diffuser pads, and the flattest response is achieved with one mounted at the top of the tweeter baffle. The tweeter and midrange already have protective coverings, so you shouldn't need the grill for that. The woofer grill doesn't affect the sound at all, however, and actually fits. So by all means use that. Cheers
Now I know what to do. Thank you, Dennis. Ya, these speakers came in quite nice. You know what, to my surprise, the wife actually likes how they sit in the room more than the replaced ones. I told her this would be my last speaker set, and she looked at me with question mark in her eye.
post #3282 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by AcuDefTechGuy View Post

Yeah, AH & AVS are the only 2 forums I frequent. biggrin.gif
Are you getting the Phil's ?

Good to hear from you and Alex, I've been hangin around here for a long time, not much posting just observing. I'm still on the fence with the Phils. Right now I have cabinet shock from the price increase, I should have bought them when I first talked with Dennis awhile ago, I need a shove off the fence. biggrin.gif
Take care my friend.
Jeff
post #3283 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahblaza View Post

I need a shove off the fence. biggrin.gif

*PUSH*

Oh sh*t, he broke.

Someone call all the king's horses and all the kings men!!

F*ck! -.-
post #3284 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahblaza View Post

Good to hear from you and Alex, I've been hangin around here for a long time, not much posting just observing. I'm still on the fence with the Phils. Right now I have cabinet shock from the price increase, I should have bought them when I first talked with Dennis awhile ago, I need a shove off the fence. biggrin.gif
Take care my friend.
Jeff

Common now....your an Ascend guy.....what yah doing here....biggrin.gif
post #3285 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy p View Post

Common now....your an Ascend guy.....what yah doing here....biggrin.gif

You got me Billy eek.gif and yes I am smile.gif
post #3286 of 4614
Do it......do it......do it......do it........do it

As a small tangent, I've been busy lately, but had a little time yesterday to play with my phils for the first time in a couple weeks and I can say that they still sound as good as when I got them. Tremendous speakers.
post #3287 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahblaza View Post

Good to hear from you and Alex, I've been hangin around here for a long time, not much posting just observing. I'm still on the fence with the Phils. Right now I have cabinet shock from the price increase, I should have bought them when I first talked with Dennis awhile ago, I need a shove off the fence. biggrin.gif
Take care my friend.
Jeff

Hi I can't remember--wre you interested in the 2's or the 3's?
post #3288 of 4614
Since there were some postings discussing the speaker wire guage, I thought the below link might be interesting to some of you. I came across this document when I tried the newly acquired crown xls-2000 amp with Phil2. See page 14-15 for a chart to select the correct gauge of speaker wire for your application step by step in detail. Interesting how the damping factor and speaker impedance play roles in the calculation.
http://www.crownaudio.com/media/pdf/133472.pdf
post #3289 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Murphy View Post

Hi I can't remember--wre you interested in the 2's or the 3's?

Dennis, the 2's
post #3290 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahblaza View Post

Dennis, the 2's

Well, I'm doing a final inventory of baffles and cabinets, and I may have the makings of one final pair of 2's at the old price. If you have a serious interest, e-mal me at the philharmonic address and I'll keep in thouch.
Edited by Dennis Murphy - 9/4/12 at 7:58pm
post #3291 of 4614
is there a list on their site or here of amps that work well with their bigger towers?
post #3292 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by dlfromcanada View Post

is there a list on their site or here of amps that work well with their bigger towers?


Hi No--because most amps with over 60-80 watts of real power will work well with the Philharmonics. The only restrictions are for tube amps that don't do well with 4 ohm loads. I use Van Alstine equipment because I know it's up to the task. But there are lots of choices.
post #3293 of 4614
My friend had an Onkyo R320 and didn’t listen to his Phil 2s as he said that they “didn’t move me”. He then got a used Panasonic XR50 and now listens to the speakers every day. The Phils deserve good sounding equipment. It doesn’t have to be expensive; it just has to be good sounding. The used XR50 was just over $100.

Bob

Edit: The Panny might not work as well with the Phil 3s as they are less efficient than the Phil 2s.
Edited by fsimms - 9/5/12 at 6:43am
post #3294 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by dlfromcanada View Post

is there a list on their site or here of amps that work well with their bigger towers?

Just get the Harman Crown XLS 1500 for $370 new delivered and call it a day. It is 300wpc RMS x 2ch 8ohms, 525wpc x 2ch 4ohms, and 775wpc x 2ch 2ohms. It is silent, efficient, low heat, cool, 10 lbs wt, and very powerful. The only drawback is the aesthetic and no 12v trigger.

http://www.amazon.com/Crown-XLS1500-Amplifier-integrated-Crossover/dp/B003HZV2JS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346865315&sr=8-1&keywords=Crown+XLS+1500
post #3295 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Murphy View Post

Well, I'm doing a final inventory of baffles and cabinets, and I may have the makings of one final pair of 2's at the old price. If you have a serious interest, e-mal me at the philharmonic address and I'll keep in thouch.[/quote

Will Do , thanks Dennis
post #3296 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by AcuDefTechGuy View Post

Just get the Harman Crown XLS 1500 for $370 new delivered and call it a day. It is 300wpc RMS x 2ch 8ohms, 525wpc x 2ch 4ohms, and 775wpc x 2ch 2ohms. It is silent, efficient, low heat, cool, 10 lbs wt, and very powerful. The only drawback is the aesthetic and no 12v trigger.
http://www.amazon.com/Crown-XLS1500-Amplifier-integrated-Crossover/dp/B003HZV2JS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346865315&sr=8-1&keywords=Crown+XLS+1500

Agree, plain and simple, I did biggrin.gif
post #3297 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by AcuDefTechGuy View Post

Just get the Harman Crown XLS 1500 for $370 new delivered and call it a day. It is 300wpc RMS x 2ch 8ohms, 525wpc x 2ch 4ohms, and 775wpc x 2ch 2ohms. It is silent, efficient, low heat, cool, 10 lbs wt, and very powerful. The only drawback is the aesthetic and no 12v trigger.
http://www.amazon.com/Crown-XLS1500-Amplifier-integrated-Crossover/dp/B003HZV2JS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346865315&sr=8-1&keywords=Crown+XLS+1500

+1.
I just got a new Crown XLS2000 to mate with my Phil2. So far so good, I will compare it in detail with my other amp later on when I get more time.
Aesthetic wise, actually it looks quite nice to me in my rack, especially if you have some other silver color equipments.
As far as no 12v trigger, I bought a smart power strip (or call energy save power strip) for this function. It has a master plug and a few slave plugs. The device in the master plug will control the power on/off in all slave plugs. It works quite well for me.
One thing you need to pay attention is the gain control setting, and this is actually true for all pre/pro+amp system setup: You need to set more gain in the front stage (pre/pro) and less gain in the back stage (amp) in order to reduce the overall noise floor of the system. Right now I set my crown gain control dial between 12-2pm range, and compensate (increase) a few more db in the receiver pre-out depending on how loud you want to hear. This seems work well for me.

ADTG: what is your gain control setting for your crown?
post #3298 of 4614
Ah blaza, I don't think you'll even close to regret the Philharmonic 2s.

In a few simple words, they are
....
......
.............
"really damn good".
post #3299 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by avdigger View Post


ADTG: what is your gain control setting for your crown?

All the way! biggrin.gif

I set the gain on both my Crown XLS 2500 to 100% (note: the fact that Parasound recommends turning their gain to 100% didn't influence me one bit - not one bit I tell you biggrin.gif ).

I've compared the noise floor with 100% gain vs 50% gain, and I couldn't hear any difference at all. I suppose there is more than just one correct answer here. biggrin.gif
post #3300 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahblaza View Post

Agree, plain and simple, I did biggrin.gif

Oh, and some of us might want to buy a Gound Fault Current Interrupter (GFCI) and a cheater plug for the Crown amp (or any external amp) if you should have those annoying ground loop hum issues. wink.gifbiggrin.gif
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