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Philharmonic Audio - Dennis Murphy - Page 111

post #3301 of 4611
Already did on your great recommendation, you are the man:D
Jeff smile.gif
post #3302 of 4611
Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzz092888 View Post

Those BJC banana's look pretty nice thanks for the heads up.
The ten gauge wire is nice, and is a good price, although is overkill for most situations. You really only need cable like that for kilowatt+ power or really long runs, but hey they extra width can't hurt either biggrin.gif
I've used the monster ones you linked to before and found them to be ok, but nothing special IMO. No better than the monoprice ones anyways that do the same thing. I really like the screw ones better and if you're careful I don't know why you would ever strip them, but to each his own.

FWIW, I use GLS locking banana plugs. I've found them most reliable with solid connections both at wire and speaker/amp end. I had to switch out all of my monoprice plugs due to lack of consistency.

All of my in-wall speaker cable came from Monoprice, connecting cables are BJC 12AWG (raw).
post #3303 of 4611
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nethawk View Post

FWIW, I use GLS locking banana plugs. I've found them most reliable with solid connections both at wire and speaker/amp end. I had to switch out all of my monoprice plugs due to lack of consistency.
All of my in-wall speaker cable came from Monoprice, connecting cables are BJC 12AWG (raw).

I actually found someone recommending those right after I bought the Sewell silverback. I've wanted to try them ever since, but haven't needed more banana plugs since then. Soon I hope biggrin.gif Yea I still have a few monoprice ones in rotation, maybe they'll die soon.
post #3304 of 4611
Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzz092888 View Post

I actually found someone recommending those right after I bought the Sewell silverback. I've wanted to try them ever since, but haven't needed more banana plugs since then. Soon I hope biggrin.gif Yea I still have a few monoprice ones in rotation, maybe they'll die soon.

A little OT, but just in case you didn't know, the Monoprice plugs have a lifetime guarantee. If you have a lot of them like I do, you can send them back for replacement if they've gotten loose. Then you can resell the replacements to recoup some of your money. Mine have gotten loose with repeated insertion cycles and I'll be sending them back for replacement as soon as I've completed my HT rebuild.
post #3305 of 4611
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nethawk View Post

FWIW, I use GLS locking banana plugs. I've found them most reliable with solid connections both at wire and speaker/amp end. I had to switch out all of my monoprice plugs due to lack of consistency.
All of my in-wall speaker cable came from Monoprice, connecting cables are BJC 12AWG (raw).

They look identical to BJC's @ $3.50 a pair smile.gif

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/speaker/index.htm
post #3306 of 4611
+1 to GLS locking plugs and either Monoprice or BJC 12awg wire. I crafted my own speaker cables and they turned out nicely. High-end looking equipment that doesn't cost an arm and leg. I'm using them for the Philharmonic home theater:

post #3307 of 4611
Quote:
Originally Posted by loopaddiction View Post

+1 to GLS locking plugs and either Monoprice or BJC 12awg wire. I crafted my own speaker cables and they turned out nicely. High-end looking equipment that doesn't cost an arm and leg. I'm using them for the Philharmonic home theater:

I'm impressed. They look great.
post #3308 of 4611
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahblaza View Post

They look identical to BJC's @ $3.50 a pair smile.gif
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/speaker/index.htm

I can vouch for the BJC locking bananas. I've used them for years and they still work great with all the unplugging and stuff.

ParadigmDawg used the GLS and he did not like them. I've never used GLS.

But the BJC are awesome.

Edit: I have now tried the GLS locking bananas, and they are just as good as BJC. I have just also tried the Sewell Silverback non-locking bananas, and they also work great.
Edited by AcuDefTechGuy - 9/24/12 at 7:53am
post #3309 of 4611
Quote:
Originally Posted by AcuDefTechGuy View Post

I can vouch for the BJC locking bananas. I've used them for years and they still work great with all the unplugging and stuff.
ParadigmDawg used the GLS and he did not like them. I've never used GLS.
But the BJC are awesome.

I actually agree with you, 10 pairs for $35, thanks for the acknowledgement my friend. I could only imagine how many times they have been plugged and unplugged biggrin.gif
post #3310 of 4611
Quote:
Originally Posted by loopaddiction View Post

+1 to GLS locking plugs and either Monoprice or BJC 12awg wire. I crafted my own speaker cables and they turned out nicely. High-end looking equipment that doesn't cost an arm and leg. I'm using them for the Philharmonic home theater:

Nice job Loop, where do you get your cable dressing?
Thanks.
post #3311 of 4611
Quote:
Originally Posted by AcuDefTechGuy View Post

I can vouch for the BJC locking bananas. I've used them for years and they still work great with all the unplugging and stuff.
ParadigmDawg used the GLS and he did not like them. I've never used GLS.
But the BJC are awesome.

They look like the same banana plug, don't they (BJC and GLS)?

GLS:



BJC:
post #3312 of 4611
Y'all are too ostentatious.


Bare wire for me biggrin.gif
post #3313 of 4611
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eternal Velocity View Post

Y'all are too ostentatious.
Bare wire for me biggrin.gif

That is the path I have arrived at too. I actually have some pretty cables, one pair includes those GLS locking bananas (which are the same as the BJC ones), but bare wire sounds better. LOL! biggrin.gif
post #3314 of 4611
Yup, the GLS plugs are exactly the same as the BJC plugs, only difference is the GLS has the branding on the locking shell. I think the BJC ones are a little bit pricier.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahblaza View Post

Nice job Loop, where do you get your cable dressing?
Thanks.

Thanks! The sleeving is clean-cut tech flex from Ebay seller furryletters.
post #3315 of 4611
Quote:
Originally Posted by loopaddiction View Post

Yup, the GLS plugs are exactly the same as the BJC plugs, only difference is the GLS has the branding on the locking shell. I think the BJC ones are a little bit pricier.
Thanks! The sleeving is clean-cut tech flex from Ebay seller furryletters.

I may try making some of those wires
post #3316 of 4611
It's pretty straightforward and once you get the hang of it, it becomes an enjoyable little hobby. I made an effort to change all the speaker cables around the house to make 'em look nice. It's also fairly inexpensive. Here are the how-to threads that I followed:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1301573/have-a-look-at-these-beauties-how-to-make-your-own-high-end-cables
http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?s=9aac3c4dfcaf51ade5975317ac0d7cee&t=57127
post #3317 of 4611
Not sure I saw it posted in the thread, but what is the crossover frequency between the tweeter and the midrange for Phil2? I know the crossover between mid and woofer is around 600hz..
post #3318 of 4611
Another question regarding the two speaker wire terminals on Phil2: Right now the two terminals are bridged together by metal pieces, as they shipped. But I want to know, internally, are they wired like the standard speaker terminals, ie, one terminal for HF and the other for LF so that you can do bi-wire or bi-amp if you want? Although I am not a fan of either bi-wire or bi-amp, I just want to know for sure how the two terminals are wired inside the Phil2.
Edited by avdigger - 9/11/12 at 3:41pm
post #3319 of 4611
Quote:
Originally Posted by avdigger View Post

Not sure I saw it posted in the thread, but what is the crossover frequency between the tweeter and the midrange for Phil2? I know the crossover between mid and woofer is around 600hz..

I think around 3000hz
post #3320 of 4611
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrlittlejeans View Post

I think around 3000hz

That's right--you can see it on the reverse null plots on the measurements section. It's close to 3k or a hair below on all the Phil's.
post #3321 of 4611



Well, my Philharmonitor .5's arrived today. I ordered them sometime in July. (Whew, that sure was a long time ago.)

First thing that I noticed about them is how heavy they were. They measure 14"x 8 1/2"x13" (h x w x d.) With both of them lying on the floor, I pulled off the magnetically attached grills. I noticed on one of the 6" woofers that it looked like someone hadn't screwed in the screws all the way. A couple of them were out about 1/8". A couple more were out less than that. (Why do people use Fedex??? I hardly remember any Fedex package that doesn't come in looking like it's been thrown around a lot. In this case, on the two boxes there were only about 3 minor tears and one place where it looks like it or something ran into it. But nothing looked serious.) Well, one of the 6 screws was in firmly. I was able to tighten two and the other three screws go all the way in but the threads are stripped but they seem to be holding. It doesn't seem to affect the sound. When I move them around something does seem to shift. Maybe the crossovers? Oh yeah, two screws (out of four) holding the tweeter are not there. They were never put in. But again, the loose and missing screws don't affect how they sound.

I wrote an e-mail to Dennis to call him but right now, he's at rehearsal.

So how do they sound? Fine. biggrin.gif

Yeah, that all you need to know. rolleyes.gif

Seriously though, in comparison with my Paradigm and Cambridge Soundworks speakers, they are not as "exciting." The .5's are far more "laid back." For instance, a saxophone on a certain recording seems to come from behind the plane of the speaker whereas on the CS speakers, the sax seems to come out from in front of the speaker with more force and cymbals are more bright and with more sizzle. (I'm not saying either is good or bad. It just is.)

The bass is nice and tight - within the limitations of the 6" woofers, of course. The .5's are speakers that you really need to listen to to hear more of the subtleties that come through in the background details. They seem like very nice speakers.

I have not experimented a lot with placement/toe-in so I won't comment on the soundstage.

One other point - many years ago, I bought a pair of B&W 302's on Frank Van Alstine's recommendation. When I listened to them through NAD's at the shop, I could clearly hear the speakers having an "aww" sound - like listening to sounds with a cardboard tube over your ears. When I brought them home and hooked them up to my Van Alstine equipment, the aww sound disappeared. Over the years, I was impressed and enjoyed the sound from that system (now gone) more and more. Why did I bring that up? Because listening to the .5's, I can hear a bit of that aww sound in the midrange. But it's most likely either my Denon receiver or my inexpensive DAC. (Sorry Dennis, electronics do make a difference. tongue.gif)
post #3322 of 4611
Sorry to hear that they weren't all you'd hope they'd be. They look good, but it sounds like there was something going on that made them a little less then what they could be. I wonder if the two missing screws could be causing a problem. Are they both on one side or are the diagonally from each other? I suppose we'll have to wait for Dennis' assessment.

Congrats on finally getting them though smile.gif
post #3323 of 4611

Hey Buddy, sorry about those irrrrrrrtating little surprises, you have waited so long for them.

 

They will sound a lot better in time. Looks like Dennis might have forgotten a loose screw!!!eek.giftongue.gif

 

Hope they make you happy!

post #3324 of 4611
Quote:
Originally Posted by charmerci View Post


Well, my Philharmonitor .5's arrived today. I ordered them sometime in July. (Whew, that sure was a long time ago.)
First thing that I noticed about them is how heavy they were. They measure 14"x 8 1/2"x13" (h x w x d.) With both of them lying on the floor, I pulled off the magnetically attached grills. I noticed on one of the 6" woofers that it looked like someone hadn't screwed in the screws all the way. A couple of them were out about 1/8". A couple more were out less than that. (Why do people use Fedex??? I hardly remember any Fedex package that doesn't come in looking like it's been thrown around a lot. In this case, on the two boxes there were only about 3 minor tears and one place where it looks like it or something ran into it. But nothing looked serious.) Well, one of the 6 screws was in firmly. I was able to tighten two and the other three screws go all the way in but the threads are stripped but they seem to be holding. It doesn't seem to affect the sound. When I move them around something does seem to shift. Maybe the crossovers? Oh yeah, two screws (out of four) holding the tweeter are not there. They were never put in. But again, the loose and missing screws don't affect how they sound.
I wrote an e-mail to Dennis to call him but right now, he's at rehearsal.
So how do they sound? Fine. biggrin.gif
Yeah, that all you need to know. rolleyes.gif
Seriously though, in comparison with my Paradigm and Cambridge Soundworks speakers, they are not as "exciting." The .5's are far more "laid back." For instance, a saxophone on a certain recording seems to come from behind the plane of the speaker whereas on the CS speakers, the sax seems to come out from in front of the speaker with more force and cymbals are more bright and with more sizzle. (I'm not saying either is good or bad. It just is.)
The bass is nice and tight - within the limitations of the 6" woofers, of course. The .5's are speakers that you really need to listen to to hear more of the subtleties that come through in the background details. They seem like very nice speakers.
I have not experimented a lot with placement/toe-in so I won't comment on the soundstage.
One other point - many years ago, I bought a pair of B&W 302's on Frank Van Alstine's recommendation. When I listened to them through NAD's at the shop, I could clearly hear the speakers having an "aww" sound - like listening to sounds with a cardboard tube over your ears. When I brought them home and hooked them up to my Van Alstine equipment, the aww sound disappeared. Over the years, I was impressed and enjoyed the sound from that system (now gone) more and more. Why did I bring that up? Because listening to the .5's, I can hear a bit of that aww sound in the midrange. But it's most likely either my Denon receiver or my inexpensive DAC. (Sorry Dennis, electronics do make a difference. tongue.gif)

Hi Sorry to hear about the screw problem. The Parts Express cabinets are generally well made and braced, but the mdf is on the soft side, and it's very difficult to avoid some stripping problems. I have no idea what happened to the two tweeter screws. Chock it up to bad eyesight. I would be willing to bet a fair amount of my retirement pension that there is no "awww" coloration on the monitors. Quite the opposite. The monitors have more baffle step compensation than the Paradigms or Cambridge Audio units (at least the unmodified Cambridge), and it's the lack of BSC that causes that kind of effect (too much output at 1 kHz relative to the output in the 200-600 Hz region.) Maybe electronics make a difference, but I have yet to hear it. Finally, I'm sure there are many speakers out there that have more sizzle than the monitors. I was studiously trying to avoid sizzle. And as I've posted many times before, good ribbon tweeters all have less apparent output in the ssssssssssssssssss frequency range than domes. That's partly due to their much lower moving mass, which allows more of the highest frequencies to come through, and partly to their radiation pattern, which resembles a line source more than a point source.
post #3325 of 4611
Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzz092888 View Post

Sorry to hear that they weren't all you'd hope they'd be. They look good, but it sounds like there was something going on that made them a little less then what they could be. I wonder if the two missing screws could be causing a problem. Are they both on one side or are the diagonally from each other? I suppose we'll have to wait for Dennis' assessment.
Congrats on finally getting them though smile.gif

Oh they sound good. But sometimes, like learning to enjoy fine wine, it takes a while to appreciate the subtleties. biggrin.gif

The missing screws are on the top right and bottom left. I'm sure that Dennis will mail them to me. rolleyes.gif

I'm more concerned about the 3 screws and the effect of the woofer vibration and its long term affects or how to cement them in place. I'll wait to see what Dennis suggests. Maybe a drop of Elmer's? Locktight? It's getting late on the east coast.....
Edited by charmerci - 9/11/12 at 9:34pm
post #3326 of 4611
Can anyone tell me what tweeter is used in the .5 Philmonitor? The one that Carmerci posted a picture of, seems to look like the RAAL, right? What is the price on a pair of Philmonitors with the RAAL tweeter? I might be interested in purchasing some.
post #3327 of 4611
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

Can anyone tell me what tweeter is used in the .5 Philmonitor? The one that Carmerci posted a picture of, seems to look like the RAAL, right? What is the price on a pair of Philmonitors with the RAAL tweeter? I might be interested in purchasing some.

That's the fountek ribbon tweeter. I'm sure Dennis could throw a RAAL in there if you really wanted it, but for comparison the RAAL costs ~ $300 more than the fountek.
post #3328 of 4611
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

Can anyone tell me what tweeter is used in the .5 Philmonitor? The one that Carmerci posted a picture of, seems to look like the RAAL, right? What is the price on a pair of Philmonitors with the RAAL tweeter? I might be interested in purchasing some.

I would love to offer a 2-way with the RAAL tweeter, but unfortunately it won't go low enough to mate with the 7" Seas woofer. The difference in cost between the Fountek and the RAAL is about $200 per unit, so that would also mean a $400 price increase. I think Camerci will come to appreciate the basic honesty of the monitor's sound, but I was thinking about his "excitement" comment. If you search enough on the SALK board, you'll find an almost identical discussion about the SongTower dome version vs. the RAAL version. Some who heard the RAAL ST thought it was a bit boring, and actually preferred the dome. Jim Salk initially had the same reaction. There's no question that the basic sound is different, and that for some people and some program material, a good dome will provide more excitement. I personally have pretty much given up on domes because I just find the ribbon sound closer to what I hear in the orchestra hall.

This is may be a good place and time to announce that the current line of Philharmonitors will terminate upon completion of the pair I'm starting to assemble. The Parts Express cabinets have proven a problem--the mdf is too soft, and routing the finished baffles has proven a constant aggravation to Del; the cabinet dude. The combined cost of the cabinets and the routing, plus a very complex crossover and relatively expensive drivers, means I'm placed at too much of a competitive disadvantage to justify the amount of time these things take to produce. Also, the shipping boxes that PE provides aren't really up to the challenges of Fed Ex football. (And you thought the Redskins were the only players using Fed Ex Field). However, I designed a very similar monitor for someone who sells them in Taiwan. They use the same Fountek tweeter (but with a custom square silver face plate) and the 6.5" version of the SB Acoustics woofer used in the Philharmonic 2. The cabinets are very solid and attractive, and I'm arranging to obtain a number of the completed speakers that I can sell from stock and ship immediately. The cost and size will be about the same as the smaller Philharmonitor--probably $850 a pair.
post #3329 of 4611
Quote:
Originally Posted by charmerci View Post




Well, one of the 6 screws was in firmly. I was able to tighten two and the other three screws go all the way in but the threads are stripped but they seem to be holding. It doesn't seem to affect the sound. )



I was a piano tuner for over 3 years and learned a few tricks. One was that if you have a stripped out wood screw hole then you can put a little wood glue on a tooth pick and put it into the screw hole. Break or cut it off near flush. You can then immediately screw the screw back into the hole and it will hold. I wouldn’t over tighten it though. You don’t have to wait for the glue to dry. Even Elmers glue will work. Toothpicks are made of high quality wood. Just one toothpick will be enough.

Bob
post #3330 of 4611
Quote:
Originally Posted by fsimms View Post

I was a piano tuner for over 3 years and learned a few tricks. One was that if you have a stripped out wood screw hole then you can put a little wood glue on a tooth pick and put it into the screw hole. Break or cut it off near flush. You can then immediately screw the screw back into the hole and it will hold. I wouldn’t over tighten it though. You don’t have to wait for the glue to dry. Even Elmers glue will work. Toothpicks are made of high quality wood. Just one toothpick will be enough.
Bob

Thanks Bob. Very helpful.
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