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Philharmonic Audio - Dennis Murphy - Page 123

post #3661 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by duc135 View Post

So much for beating the FedEx delivery guy home today. I got a call about an hour and a half ago from the driver. He was at my house trying to make the delivery. As if today wasn't slow enough. Can't wait to set them up tomorrow. Looks like the gf will not be getting a date night with me tomorrow. Heck, probably not until next weekend actually. I think I will need the four days off to properly set them up. It's possibly that I may need to build some pedestals for them to clear the floor plates where my speaker connectors are located.

Great plan now in place, duc! Congrats!!
post #3662 of 4614
Got the call from my gf. The boxes have been delivered. What a coincidence that I'm starting to not feel very well. I may need to go home VERY soon. wink.gif
post #3663 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by duc135 View Post

Got the call from my gf. The boxes have been delivered. What a coincidence that I'm starting to not feel very well. I may need to go home VERY soon. wink.gif


There's a lot of that going around.
post #3664 of 4614
Yea, I'm heading home now so as to not get my coworkers sick. It's pretty bad. See how thoughtful I am? Always thinking of others and taking one for the team.
post #3665 of 4614
hey philharmonic owners - anyone within an hour or so drive from 06401 willing to do a demo for me? let me know w/ a reply or inbox me thanks! smile.gif

Justin
post #3666 of 4614
Could anyone tell me how much the Philharmonics weigh for shipping, ie number of boxes, size and weight?

Thanks.
post #3667 of 4614
Dennis should be able to help you with that. biggrin.gif
Quote:
I call them Bob so that if I get drunk and start writing backwards I can still spell it properly.

LOL!!!!
post #3668 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Dodds View Post

Could anyone tell me how much the Philharmonics weigh for shipping, ie number of boxes, size and weight?
Thanks.
Obviously Dennis will be around to give you exact numbers, but there are 4 boxes. Two weighing approximately 20 or so lbs and two weighing around 50 or so lbs if I had to guess. The dimensions small boxes should be somewhere in the area of 16 X 20 X 17in and the bass boxes are approx 31 X 16 X 64
post #3669 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzz092888 View Post

Obviously Dennis will be around to give you exact numbers, but there are 4 boxes. Two weighing approximately 20 or so lbs and two weighing around 50 or so lbs if I had to guess. The dimensions small boxes should be somewhere in the area of 16 X 20 X 17in and the bass boxes are approx 31 X 16 X 64

Well--not close enough for an organic banana. There are 4 boxes. The small ones are 20 X 20 X 20 (that's inches, folks) and they each weigh 15 lbs. The big ones are 29" D X 17" W X 32" H, and each weighs around 70 lbs.
post #3670 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzz092888 View Post

Obviously Dennis will be around to give you exact numbers, but there are 4 boxes. Two weighing approximately 20 or so lbs and two weighing around 50 or so lbs if I had to guess. The dimensions small boxes should be somewhere in the area of 16 X 20 X 17in and the bass boxes are approx 31 X 16 X 64

+- 30% on all measures

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Murphy View Post

Well--not close enough for an organic banana. There are 4 boxes. The small ones are 20 X 20 X 20 (that's inches, folks) and they each weigh 15 lbs. The big ones are 29" D X 17" W X 32" H, and each weighs around 70 lbs.

There we go all better biggrin.gif
post #3671 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzz092888 View Post

+- 30% on all measures
There we go all better biggrin.gif

+- 30%, that's close enough for me, amigo, C'mon Albert, you're always exact with figures:D
post #3672 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahblaza View Post

+- 30%, that's close enough for me, amigo, C'mon Albert, you're always exact with figures:D

Now now, if you've ever read any biographies about Albert, you'll notice he's a big picture guy, not really detail oriented biggrin.gif I'm just keeping with tradition tongue.gif
post #3673 of 4614
Happy New Year to Dennis, Del ad the audiophile/Philharmonic crowd!

Peace.
post #3674 of 4614
Thanks--and right back atcha. Particularly the peace part. Cheers, Dennis
post #3675 of 4614
Thanks chaps.

Next question. I've seen the excellent horizontal dispersion charts on the Philharmonic site. Are there any vertical dispersion measurements floating around?
post #3676 of 4614
Hi Vertical dispersion is a very complex and unsettled issue. Unless you really only listen to music in one seated position, you want sufficiently wide vertical dispersion to avoid disappearing highs when you stand up, or even start to stand up. That's a real issue with very tall ribbons or planar elements. It's not an issue with dome tweeters or fairly short ribbons and planars. The RAAL tweeter in the Phil 2 and 3 is a little over 2 inches high, so by itself it will have fairly broad dispersion, but not as wide as a 1" dome. However, it's designed to be used with deflector pads that effectively shorten the ribbon and extend high frequency response off axis. I'm just finishing up a pair of 3's, and I'll be sure to take and post measurements that show the effect of the pads. All that said, super wide vertical dispersion is not necessarily a good thing. Ceiling and floor reflections can degrade imaging. Also, the frequency response of any conventional multi-driver speaker (where the drivers are arrayed vertically) will have sharp dips in the response around the crossover frequencies. That's because the distance of, say, the tweeter relative to the midrange will change as you move up above the tweeter axis. The tweeter will be realtively closer to you in comparison to the midrange than it was in a seated position. That means the tweeter output will reach you sooner than the midrange, and that will throw it out of phase with the mid, causing cancellation and a big dip in the frequency response. So the vertical off-axis response of the Philharmonics, and just about any other speaker (except coaxial designs) will look funky with the mic placed far above the tweeter axis. Does that matter? I really don't know. Those sharp dips are harder to hear than you might think even when they occur on axis. When they are present only in the late-arrival reflected sound, they might not be audible at all. Sorry you asked?
post #3677 of 4614
Thanks Dennis. I ask because I have a tendency to slump, and even sometimes lie down when listening.
post #3678 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Dodds View Post

Thanks Dennis. I ask because I have a tendency to slump, and even sometimes lie down when listening.

You'll notice a shift lying down, but slumping won't pose an issue. Either way, I think you'll really enjoy the Phil's if you go that route. Enjoy and Happy New Year!
post #3679 of 4614
Dennis, (others?)

Is there any particular reason to keep the grills on? (I have the Fountek ribbon tweeters.)

I put them on when not seriously listening to stop dust from gathering on them thinking that it might hurt the performance.

Can I just leave them off all the time?
post #3680 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by charmerci View Post

Dennis, (others?)

Is there any particular reason to keep the grills on? (I have the Fountek ribbon tweeters.)

I put them on when not seriously listening to stop dust from gathering on them thinking that it might hurt the performance.

Can I just leave them off all the time?


I never use the grills. Don't worry about dust. I can't imagine a significant coating building up if you play them regularly. I just don't think this is an issue.
post #3681 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuance View Post

Can you purchase a 12V trigger unit and plug the amp into it? Then when your preamp or receiver powers on it'll trigger on the power amps. I use something from Niles similar to this for my two Behringer EP2500 subwoofer amps (mine is an older model and has multiple outlets):

http://www.nilesaudio.com/product.php?prodID=CS12V&recordID=Source%20Switching%20Systems&categoryID=Switching%20Systems&catcdID=10&prdcdID=FG01173

 

 

Here's a DIY version from Elliott Sound Products:

    http://sound.westhost.com/project79.htm

 

I built either this one or an older version some years ago.  It works great.

 

Cheers - Frank

post #3682 of 4614
Or, for about $20 and some change you can just buy a smart power strip.

http://www.amazon.com/Monster-Digital-PowerCenter-HDP-650G/dp/B002RL9XQW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_3

The limitations of these types of strips is that all your equipment will be on the same circuit. Not a big issue for most, but if you have one or more high amperage amplifiers that are on separate dedicated circuits this won't work. Nor will the DIY version by Elliot designs. In that case, a fairly simple and inexpensive DIY option is available if you are comfortable with a soldering iron.

I'll post the instructions if anyone is interested. I need to make another one for myself anyway. Might as well document it and take some pictures. It'll have to be next weekend though. I'll be out of town this weekend. I can still do a step by step written instructions if someone needs it right away.
post #3683 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by duc135 View Post

Or, for about $20 and some change you can just buy a smart power strip.

http://www.amazon.com/Monster-Digital-PowerCenter-HDP-650G/dp/B002RL9XQW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_3
The problem being that, instead of using a 12v trigger, that uses the load draw from a master source.

What if the master doesn't pull the required 50W? Then the slave plugs won't turn on.
post #3684 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuance View Post

Can you purchase a 12V trigger unit and plug the amp into it? Then when your preamp or receiver powers on it'll trigger on the power amps. I use something from Niles similar to this for my two Behringer EP2500 subwoofer amps (mine is an older model and has multiple outlets):

http://www.nilesaudio.com/product.php?prodID=CS12V&recordID=Source%20Switching%20Systems&categoryID=Switching%20Systems&catcdID=10&prdcdID=FG01173

That looks like the wrong product you are referring to. This product creates a 12V trigger out of a device that does not have one to trigger a device that needs one to operate like a motorized screen that lowers or a consumer amp that turns on when they sense a 12V trigger.
post #3685 of 4614
Still loving the Phils. No listener fatigue is simply fantastic.
post #3686 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryLove View Post

The problem being that, instead of using a 12v trigger, that uses the load draw from a master source.

What if the master doesn't pull the required 50W? Then the slave plugs won't turn on.

There are other models that don't require that much of a draw. I know my previous one required less than 9W. What is the master device? I would imagine it would be a receiver unless you are running source direct to the amp. I had the reverse problem. My receiver in Network standby mode only drew 9W and it would keep all the devices powered on. Turning network standby off would make it behave normally. I have since given it to my father and switched out to a less sensitive unit.

This is how I have mine setup.

Equipment:

Denon AVR-4311
Oppo BDP-93
Panasonic DMP-BD85
Cable modem
Router
Network switch
Emotiva XPR-5 consumer amp
Behringer EPX4000 pro amp
QSC RMX-5050 pro amp
LG Clone FP14000 pro amp
MiniDSP
12V power supply
CyberPower UPS
Niles IR repeater
Numerous USB hard drives

From the UPS I have the smart power strip connected to the battery protected outlet to supply power in the event of a power outage. The Denon AVR is the master control device. The networking equipment are all connected to the always hot outlets as is the MiniDSP and the Niles IR repeater. All the other devices are on their own dedicated circuit plugged into my DIY, 12V sensing outlets. The 12V signal is generated via the 12V power supply I have plugged into the smart power strip in one of the controlled outlets. When the receiver is turned on, it powers up the 12V power supply which sends a 12V DC current to the relay in my DIY outlets. The relay then energizes the outlets so that all my amps turn on when the receiver is on and turns off when the receiver is off.

Here's a quick diagram I just made to show what I'm talking about.

post #3687 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by duc135 View Post

That looks like the wrong product you are referring to. This product creates a 12V trigger out of a device that does not have one to trigger a device that needs one to operate like a motorized screen that lowers or a consumer amp that turns on when they sense a 12V trigger.

By golly I think you're right. smile.gif I should have paid closer attention. I'll look and see what model mine are when I get home. They are discontinued but can be had for cheap on eBay (probably still new).
post #3688 of 4614
Still loving my Phil 2s

both pads on, 12 teeth apart
20% fill
10/10/10 traingle config with main chair
denon 4311 with emo xpa3
oppo 93

Yo-Yo Ma Plays Ennio Morricone in HD is playing frequently
post #3689 of 4614
Just a short update. I have tried bi-amp on the Phil 3 with my Marantz but has no success. I lost "materials" in the recordings between the passive crossover and the receiver crossover. I have heard the additional material in the recordings when I switched the crossover from the lower freq to a higher one on the receiver. Bottom line is to let Dennis's crossover do the work and not the Receiver.

Below is an illustration of why there are more "materials" lost in a lower receiver crossover.

Higher crossover point at 250hz
Bass                       Mid / Treble
Receiver active crossover
<250hz                  >250Hz
Speaker Passive Crossover
<640Hz                 >640Hz
Output to woofer drivers
<250Hz                 >640Hz

Lower cross over point at 80Hz.
Bass                       Mid / Treble
Receiver active crossover
<80hz                    >80Hz
Speaker Passive Crossover
<640Hz                 >640Hz
Output to woofer drivers
<80Hz                    >640Hz
post #3690 of 4614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee88 View Post

Just a short update. I have tried bi-amp on the Phil 3 with my Marantz but has no success. I lost "materials" in the recordings between the passive crossover and the receiver crossover. I have heard the additional material in the recordings when I switched the crossover from the lower freq to a higher one on the receiver. Bottom line is to let Dennis's crossover do the work and not the Receiver.

Below is an illustration of why there are more "materials" lost in a lower receiver crossover.

Higher crossover point at 250hz
Bass                       Mid / Treble
Receiver active crossover
<250hz                  >250Hz
Speaker Passive Crossover
<640Hz                 >640Hz
Output to woofer drivers
<250Hz                 >640Hz

Lower cross over point at 80Hz.
Bass                       Mid / Treble
Receiver active crossover
<80hz                    >80Hz
Speaker Passive Crossover
<640Hz                 >640Hz
Output to woofer drivers
<80Hz                    >640Hz

Hi,

I'm not real sure what you're trying to do, but this reference on bi-amping/bi-wiring might be helpful.
http://sound.westhost.com/bi-amp.htm
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