IR Receiver for LG LST-4600A

I have the 4200A, the one you would much rather have, with a full front panel. Elektrotanya (http://elektrotanya.com/?q=keres) has a free service manual for mine and yours. I suggest you look at it to see if that box has a built-in IR receiver, hard to believe it would not. Maybe it even has the schematic for the remote dongle.

I bought mine off Craigslist, no remote. I had no luck finding codes for it in universal remote manuals, or the owner guide for any tv I had. I ended up having to buy a real remote for it, but it was surprisingly cheap. There are several companies selling replacement remotes. Google. Widely varying prices.

That sample IR receiver you have there, which I understand is only a suggestion, looks like the one that came with my Comcast cablebox. I wonder if those are somewhat generic.

Tuners like this come up on Craigslist here and there, LG made them, Samsung made a lot of them.

I am in the same boat you are, probably ordered from the same source on Ebay. I have also did the Google search, LG says no longer available. If you find a souce send out the link. Not sure if this just an ir and connector, or if there is other electronics in this device. If I find a solution will leave here.

If the IR port is a tip-ring-sleeve mini plug type, the generic example above should work and would be well worth trying.

RS-232 is a computer serial control port and if you wrote a program that the unit could understand, it could be controlled by a PC or control system like a Crestron or AMX. Probably a lot more trouble than it would be worth.

Because the unit was meant for an industrial application.

Let me know what you are going to try next as far as an IR receiver is concerned. I'm thinking about picking up the last one on eBay (it might already have an offer pending). Would you be willing to tell what low offer you gave to the seller that he or she accepted?

In your opinion, would one of these boxes be worth it as a home QAM tuner? Do you know where to look for a generic IR receiver if we did pick one up?

Thanks.

- 2 Bunny

We had an infrared something or another, and I almost thought it was going to work for us, and then I noticed that it was an IR blaster, not a receiver. Do you know of anyplace in stores or on the internet I might be able to get a receiver? Could a blaster work in place of a receiver?


I think I know that $15 one you're talking about. It was a CELabs HD100AQ. Apparently it has no remote, and with no remote codes, there's not a whole heck of a lot we can do. The seller still hasn't acknowledged the current offer yet, so if I can find out for sure what other costs are involved (like the receiver and the remote - only we would be needing to pick up a real universal remote anyway like you were talking about), I might see if we could put in an offer on that.


Yep. I located that 2007 blog post that you linked to, and that information should be enough to get us through the essential "installers' menu" setup and stuff. The "switch" thing shouldn't be a problem for us as we only plan on using it on one display through the component ports.

Keep us posted on what you find out. Thanks for the information.

- 2 Bunny

Here is one source of IR Receiver modules. They average about $1 each.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...eceiver%20TSOP


No, a 'blaster' is an IR LED. A receiver contains a photodiode, bandpass filter and demodulator.

So I could buy one of those and splice it onto a 3.5MM cable and use it with that LG?


Gotcha. That's what I thought, but I just wanted to make sure.

Thanks.

- 2 Bunny

Are you sure it is a receiver and not an IR "blaster"?

- 2 Bunny

IR blasters and IR receivers are two different things. For your app, a receiver is needed.

Did your receiver from eBay ever come in? To be honest, we kinda found a different unit. A (not nearly as interesting) Samsung SIR-T451. I'll still be curious how the LG works out for you though, so keep us posted.

- 2 Bunny

I can confirm that IR and the GE remote I listed in previous post indeed works, the key was getting the correct TV Zenith Code, you must use the TV function of the remote with the correct Zenith Code. Do not use the SAT/CBL function.

Interesting. The Samsung just came in today, and I'll start with that it is nothing like what I was expecting - for good and bad.

To start, we took it out of the box and it looked really nice (smelled a bit strange, but not terribly bad). When you plug it in, the shiny bar on the front has an invisible "standby" text that lights up in the corner when the unit is off, and when it is on, a cool "HDTV" thingy lights up on the right side. The center of its little screen has your typical channel number indicator which only tells you the primary channel you're on, so for example, if you were on channel 1-10, the display will just read "C 01" or something. Channel scans don't take very long, and it will reboot at the end of the process. The thing is that the channels it picked up did not match up with what I was getting on my Mygica USB QAM tuner. The channels were on completely different numbers, and there were far fewer of them. Only the local FOX network and one other channel came in HD, and they both looked "scrambled" (like trying to watch HD channels OTA with weak signal, only this was with cable). Another oddity about the Samsung SIR-T451 is that when it channel scans, it just scans the primary channels, so if you got only (for instance) channel 12-10, and not 12-9 or below, it would just write down that it found "something" on channel 12, and the next time you wanted to see "12-10", you'd have to go to 12-1, and go all the way through up to 12-10 - very poor software. It doesn't stop there either. The menus are slightly sluggish as are changing channels and the unit doesn't seem to have good IR range with the remote. The supplied remote actually controls our Mitsubishi better than it controls the Samsung! Like other people said, it is brilliant hardware with very poor software that tests your patience.

All that sluggishness and bugginess I could live with if it actually found all the channels. Does anyone know why I can type in the channel number for my local FOX HD network on my Mygica and not see it at all on the Samsung? Is it only a QAM64 tuner or something?

In the meantime, I can find most of the other local channels in standard def, but if you all can get better mileage with the LG boxes and I can't figure this out (and one is still available at the end), I might buy one of those.


If the Harmony can take HEX CODES, see if you can get the codes from your remote for the Zenith television. Maybe P719C1 could benefit from them.

- 2 Bunny

Cool. Let us know if you figure 'em out.

- 2 Bunny

Awesome - glad to hear you got it working. Does it tune all your QAM channels, or is this your first QAM tuner?

As for us, we don't want to take any more risks with tuners, so I think the best way for us to go is to just put together a computer (we've got an old socket 478 motherboard and the USB QAM tuner that works perfect) and plug it up to the telly with its nifty RGBHV inputs. I priced it out, and we can probably make the whole thing happen for around $75, and we end up with a halfway capable computer sitting next to our Mitt. I just have to work out the small details like, "will the Intel 82845GV graphic card cooperate with EnTech PowerStrip to attain the correct resolution and compensate for overscan?" and "will we be able to use the built in IR receiver in the tuner, or will we have to purchase a separate one?".

Keep us posted on the machine, and you might just see me again in a soon to come thread featuring some of the "preview questions" already quoted here . We'll be able to watch actual HDTV on that Mitt yet!

- 2 Bunny

This doesn't sound like a delay issue, but a repeats issue. I'm not 100% sure how you get to the repeats setting in the software for the 650, but it used to be under troubleshoot, "my device responds to some commands too many times, or not at all", or something like that. Then there should be a setting for 0 - 6 or something like that and the default is usually 3. Change that setting to 0 and it should help you get rid of the repeats (at least this is how I've always done this with my Harmony 880s and Harmomy Ones).