Making the "Bacon Race" Theater - Page 45

Originally Posted by damelon

Both Audio and Video wise, I absolutely love my theater.
Sound wise, it's exactly what I expected it to be. Audio is crystal clear, and vocals are easy to understand. I hear no echos at all. I can play a movie at volume levels I like (Loud) and everything comes through with shining colors.

Originally Posted by damelon

I purchased the speakers back in 2007. At the time I had a normal center channel, and upgraded that to a 3rd tower speaker due to the false wall.

I had the sunfire amp for them at the time too, as it is a very good and powerful 7 channel amp.

As for the pre-amp, I got that last year. I upgraded from my old Integra 9.8.

Originally Posted by Shadez336

Hey Big, I'm going to attempt to do this this weekend. Did you sand these down before priming them or is that what the primer is for?

Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC

LIGHT TRAY DETAILS

First off all of our work on the soffit and light tray was inspired by the Sandman's design. We are going with painted versus wood laminate.

The light tray goes all around the room and will contain numerous 3 inch recessed 50 watt halogen bulbs. We will be using these fixtures (except we will get white and paint them black) from Lowe's



The light tray design from a previous post.



The bottom piece is 5 1/5 inches wide 3/4 MDF, the upright is 6 inches tall 3/4. with two additional decorative 1/2 inch strips of 4 and 2 inches. All visible edges to be rounded.

Here is the previous shot of the parts cut and rounded ready to assembly. I used a MLCS router table for the rounding. With their design and my vac very little dust resulted from the round over step.



Here is were we started. a basic 3/4 inch faced MDF soffit, Damelon pre painted everything black.





The edge where the MDF met the ceiling and the screw holes was a little rough so we considered patching and caulking versus banging up some molding and the molding won.

Just a basic 1 1/2 by 1/2 inch piece of MDF with the bottom edge rounded over.



next we added some support blocks, flush with the bottom edge



Then screwed up the 5 1/2 inch bottoms and the larger part over the stage which we had to cut with a jig saw.





You can see that Damelon put a quick couple of coats of black on the extra ceiling molding over the stage because once the front is up it was going to be a long reach to paint.



Next the wiring was Popped in. Recessed lights around the perimeter, Recessed over the screen and rope light. We actually surfaced mounted an outlet up in the front left corner and wired it up because once the fronts go on it is going to get more difficult to work reaching in the gap.



Next the 6 inch fronts were glued (Titebond wood glue) to the bottoms and nailed with 2 inch finish nails. Also put some dabs of Loctite construction adhesive between the supports and the back of the fronts. The glue is to make sure that once the butt joints are wood puttied, sanded and painted that the seams don't pop open. Over the stage we used 1/2 inch MDF so that we could bend it. The rest of the room was 3/4.





Somehow during the process I put a big ding in the ceiling and Damelon had to administer some first aid.



The last step was to glue (Titebond) and nail the decorative molding on. We used a combination of 18 ga finish nails where they wouldn't show and 23 ga nails (pins) where they will to minimize finishing prep work.



Done



I'm please to report that after all this work that we were treated to salmon stuffed with crab meat, stir fried green beans, pie with ice cream and a bottle of Sam Adams.

Next the COLUMNS

Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC

We used a lot of finish nails (with a gun, 18 gauge) on the light tray, that and lots of glue. We only used screws where we needed extra holding until the glue dried and the middle of the front round was one spot. When I start splitting 2x2s I drill pilot holes. Using an impact driver usually results in a self countersinking screw, One this light tray I used a lot of 23 gauge pins to hold the 2nd and third layer of 1/2 MDF until the wood glue dried. Very small heads paint pretty much takes care of the holes.

Blocking on the front = 5. Middle, ends and in-between, the round bottom determined the shape the blocking just kept the board vertical.

Minwax sanding sealer, two coats, sand, Otherwise paint will raise the grain and it will look like crap.
Prime, light sanding for any rough spots and touch up the wood filler spots as necessary that might become noticeable after priming.
Paint. 2-3 coats, more if you don't like the first color.

Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC

Minwax sanding sealer, two coats, sand, Otherwise paint will raise the grain and it will look like crap.
Prime, light sanding for any rough spots and touch up the wood filler spots as necessary that might become noticeable after priming.
Paint. 2-3 coats, more if you don't like the first color.

Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC



I've heard of some guys using drywall mud

Originally Posted by Unacceptable

Big,

I think I'm going to do another wood run tomorrow if UHaul has anything available. I'm not sure if it was this build or one of your others, but aren't you a fan of ripping 2x4's in half instead of buying 2x2's? I've got a table saw and it looks like it could save some money, albeit add a little time ripping them.

Originally Posted by damelon

I believe it was Baer "Antique Ruby" (Home Depot brand). It looks hot pink when it's wet but dries to match the "Claret Accent" GOM. It would have been much easier if i just got the Red Gom.