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Making the "Bacon Race" Theater - Page 46

post #1351 of 1841
4/7/12 at 8:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

WEEKEND REPORT - ALL ABOUT FABRIC PANELS - Part 2


moved to the wall, you can see with fastened 2 inch furring strips to the walls to hold the panels, these were 2x3s cut down and attached with 3 1/2 inch screws.



Did you guys put 2" furring behind columns or make columns 2" longer in depth or is there 1" less exposed of the column?
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post #1352 of 1841
4/8/12 at 6:28am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdika17 View Post

Did you guys put 2" furring behind columns or make columns 2" longer in depth or is there 1" less exposed of the column?

Actually, both. Since the side walls are 1" treatments and the back wall is a 4" treatment. We made all of the main parts of the column the same size. Mounted the two rear columns on 2" furring strips. But there is still a 1" difference, so the wrap-around ribbing is 1" shorter on the sides so that the 2" deep panels fit. Visually they look the same, though, even though the rear ones are 1" more recessed.
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post #1353 of 1841
4/8/12 at 7:44am
Awesome possum.
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post #1354 of 1841
4/15/12 at 4:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

That left 4 inches of the light tray bottom sticking out from the soffit itself.

The first time I read this part, I thought to myself, "the lights are 3-inch recessed lights so that leaves me plenty of wiggle room."

Fast forward to today and I've got the entire light tray up around all but the front of the room and THEN I grab the light I picked up at Lowes last night for a little test fitting. I probably don't have to tell you or Big this, but it requires a 3-3/8 hole!

You guys are obviously pros but I'm just a copycat so 1/4" on either side is getting into some precision work for me. Multiply that by 17 holes and there's no way I won't mess this up.

Is there a trick to doing this right the first time or is literally just mark the middle of the board and go for broke? Seems like leaving only a 1/4 inch on the outside edge could lead to breakage which I'm guessing is why you waited till the face was glued on before you drilled for the cans? More meat that way?
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post #1355 of 1841
4/15/12 at 5:35pm
Thread Starter 
We didn't just mark the middle. Since we knew the front MDF face was 3/4" in, and we knew we had 4 in after that, we basically marked holes 2-3/4" in (If memory serves) This doesnt make it exactly center of the entire bottom face of the light tray visually, but it fit in the space provided. (The specific mini-lights we purchased) Yeah we did put them in after the face of the light tray was on, which made the room to work with very tight against the ceiling. Heck we even painted it before drilling the holes because we didnt want to bother painting around the light cans later.

We knew it would be tight fitting, and we followed Sandman's light tray example. His example used small specialty lights that he found locally near his house. But we were fortunate to find the lights we did at lowes because I dont know if any others would even fit in that space. You would have to make the light tray bigger, or put the lights into the normal soffit space instead of an interior tray.
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post #1356 of 1841
4/15/12 at 9:33pm
I had to order the 3 3/8 hole saw on-line. While Lowe's sells a bunch of those lights they don't stock that size hole saw. Drill a pilot hole first, then be sure to use a corded drill, The beefier the better and if it has a side handle it will help. Worked on a light tray project today with cherry veneer plywood and we cut the holes before we installed the pre-stained boards.
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post #1357 of 1841
4/16/12 at 6:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

The beefier the better and if it has a side handle it will help.

+1 on the side handle. Working overhead can be difficult. A side handle will help you gain more control. Without one, a sudden bind might just cause the handle of the drill to spin around and whack you in the jaw and/or sprain your wrist (speaking from a recent experience).
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post #1358 of 1841
4/16/12 at 7:08am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

+1 on the side handle. Working overhead can be difficult. A side handle will help you gain more control. Without one, a sudden bind might just cause the handle of the drill to spin around and whack you in the jaw and/or sprain your wrist (speaking from a recent experience).

The corded drill was a big must too. Any time we were trying to use hole saws the cordless drills couldn't cut it when it came to pure torque. We had to resort to the corded drills several times where the cordless fell short.
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post #1359 of 1841
4/16/12 at 7:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I had to order the 3 3/8 hole saw on-line. While Lowe's sells a bunch of those lights they don't stock that size hole saw.

Well what do you know. I bought the Milwaukee "Master Electrician's Hole Saw Kit" in the beginning of my build assuming it would have every size hole I'd ever need. Just checked it for a 3-3/8" and... nadda. Grrrrr.....
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post #1360 of 1841
4/16/12 at 8:55pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post


+1 on the side handle. Working overhead can be difficult. A side handle will help you gain more control. Without one, a sudden bind might just cause the handle of the drill to spin around and whack you in the jaw and/or sprain your wrist (speaking from a recent experience).

I have heard stories where guys using a corded drill over head without side handle have actually even broken their wrist. Crazy
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post #1361 of 1841
4/16/12 at 9:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by smakovits View Post


I have heard stories where guys using a corded drill over head without side handle have actually even broken their wrist. Crazy

Ouch. My worst experience was crouching up in the attic and drilling a hole to run some romex down to a new switch for a ceiling fan. The drill bit binded into the wood and swung around to hit me right in the mouth. I was bleeding pretty bad.

Plus it didn't help that it was about 130 degrees up there. That was the absolute worst project I have ever done. I still shiver thinking about all that insulation.

My advice......use a handle.
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post #1362 of 1841
4/17/12 at 5:04am
I start drilling my holes with the saw in reverse. That torque is amazing.
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post #1363 of 1841
4/17/12 at 5:43am
Must be some West Virginia thing. The rest of us use a drill to drill holes.
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post #1364 of 1841
4/17/12 at 6:43am
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaustin View Post

Ouch. My worst experience was crouching up in the attic and drilling a hole to run some romex down to a new switch for a ceiling fan. The drill bit binded into the wood and swung around to hit me right in the mouth. I was bleeding pretty bad.

Plus it didn't help that it was about 130 degrees up there. That was the absolute worst project I have ever done. I still shiver thinking about all that insulation.

My advice......use a handle.

I've heard horror stories of people getting knocked in the head (or smacking their head hard on a support beam/roof truss) in the attic and passing out from the blow and super hot air. One or the other and they would have been fine, but both together can be more dangerous than most people think. Of course, I've gone up in my attic without anyone knowing many times. Hmmm. I wonder if my wife would ever look up there if I went missing. Probably not. She would close up the steps and not think about it.
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post #1365 of 1841
4/17/12 at 7:14am
Thread Starter 
Yeah the attic in the summer is REALLY bad. The HVAC guys in this area will usually not schedule afternoon appts for an attic unit.

As for the drill stories, Yeah I've seen it happen. When it binds and gets stuck the torque can really smack you. It's locked and hurt my wrist but luckily I've never had more than some lasting soreness from it. Nothing like bones breaking or bloodletting!

So I moved my HTPC into my unfinished storage area this weekend and out of my equipment room. We rarely have been running the HVAC at all, so if I keep the door closed in there, the computer lets out a LOT of heat that can't really escape. Now that it's in the storage room behind the equipment room, it is constantly cool, I can't hear it at all in the movie room (you barely could before but still) and I can keep the equipment room door at all times. Now it is really dead quiet in there. You would sort of have to see it to understand the layout. So my NAS and HTPC are both side by side near the breaker boxes, both on UPS units, and nice and cool.
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post #1366 of 1841
4/24/12 at 12:05pm
Thread Starter 
Subwoofer amps will finally be shipping out today to Axiom. That means I'll have to disassemble my screen wall!

Theater room will be out of service until they return. Good time to paint the door I guess hehe
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post #1367 of 1841
4/24/12 at 12:28pm
You mean after I'm done with my room, there will be times I have to do MORE work?! GUUUHHHhhhh!

I wanted to jump and say thanks for all the great documentation. Like many many others, it's been very useful (and entertaining) to watch!

Thanks!
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post #1368 of 1841
4/24/12 at 12:33pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevegravley View Post

You mean after I'm done with my room, there will be times I have to do MORE work?! GUUUHHHhhhh!

Not necessarily! The biggest issue people have is that they put up their projector before they are completely "done". At which time, all other work stops.

I've known I had an issue with my volume knobs on both my amps for some time now but I haven't bothered to ship them in until now.

You're welcome on the thread. That's why we all do them. Hopefully it makes life easier for someone else later. Almost everything I've learned has been from other people's threads. This website/forum is awesome.


Completely Unrelated: Have any of you seen the trailers for Ridley Scott's upcoming Alien prequel, "Prometheus". I'm a big sci-fi nut, and I am really looking forward to this movie. For some strange reason the latest viral video "Happy Birthday David" has really hooked me. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cWmbqH_z7jM It just reminds me of 2001/2010 where dave bowman or dr. chandra are talking to Hal9000. Michael Fassbender really does feel like an android.
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post #1369 of 1841
4/24/12 at 3:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

Good time to paint the door I guess hehe

Pictures! Pictures!
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post #1370 of 1841
4/25/12 at 6:50am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Pictures! Pictures!

Wait and see!

Disassembled my screenwall last night and took out the subwoofer amps to ship out to Axiom today. Since I have probably 2 weekends, it would be a good time to take off the door and paint it.
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post #1371 of 1841
4/27/12 at 12:55pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Minwax sanding sealer, two coats, sand, Otherwise paint will raise the grain and it will look like crap.
Prime, light sanding for any rough spots and touch up the wood filler spots as necessary that might become noticeable after priming.
Paint. 2-3 coats, more if you don't like the first color.


Hey Big;

So I'm finally to the point where I can add the MDF to my door but I've got another question for you regarding the finishing. I went to Home Depot today to pick up the sanding sealer and was a little surprised by the price. So it got me thinking-could I do two coats of an oil based primer to seal the MDF instead? I've got a little of the Kilz brand left. Will it seal it well enough to prevent the water based latex paint from causing the MDF to swell?

Thanks!
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post #1372 of 1841
4/27/12 at 1:45pm
dunno
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post #1373 of 1841
4/27/12 at 1:52pm
I'm not Big, but in my experience solvent-based Kilz will work fine. Let the first coat of Kilz dry, then sand just enough to knock down the nibs. Another coat of Kilz, sand lightly, and you should be ready for paint.

If you've used part of this gallon (or quart or whatever) of Kilz already, you may want to strain the Kilz before you use it. Blobs of partly-dried stuff can really mess up a finish.
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post #1374 of 1841
4/27/12 at 2:46pm
Thanks Dwight.

I'm going to give it a try with the Kilz Original. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
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post #1375 of 1841
4/27/12 at 4:25pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaustin View Post

Hey Big;

So I'm finally to the point where I can add the MDF to my door but I've got another question for you regarding the finishing. I went to Home Depot today to pick up the sanding sealer and was a little surprised by the price. So it got me thinking-could I do two coats of an oil based primer to seal the MDF instead? I've got a little of the Kilz brand left. Will it seal it well enough to prevent the water based latex paint from causing the MDF to swell?

Thanks!

I got freaked by the price too and bought a quart hoping it would stretch. I did my entire soffit, two coats, and it only took half a quart. It's real thin (almost water-like) so it goes a long way.
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post #1376 of 1841
4/27/12 at 4:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unacceptable View Post


I got freaked by the price too and bought a quart hoping it would stretch. I did my entire soffit, two coats, and it only took half a quart. It's real thin (almost water-like) so it goes a long way.

That's good to know that it goes a long way, but I only need it for the door so I'd have a ton left over.
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post #1377 of 1841
4/28/12 at 5:15pm
Damelon,

If I recall, you did the rope light twice around with some clips and now that I'm holding one of these ropes, I notice it puts off a little heat.

Is it safe to say there's no worry about them melting together? I swear I've seen a melted mess of rope light on the Internet but I think it was because the person plugged it in while the whole spool was still bound together which would obviously generate significantly more heat than this.

Did you use the type of clamps that I see holding my copper water lines to the floor joists? The clips (and their screws) for these lights were so small there's no way I'd be able to get a hand in there now but I'm worried about the rope resting on top of the halogen cans.

EDIT: Like these - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...PYSN579JAK7CTC
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post #1378 of 1841
4/29/12 at 2:04am
Cable on a spool can act like a small coil so will generate heat. It's always best to unroll it, especially if there's a lot of current going through it (like with an extension lead).

Gary
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post #1379 of 1841
5/3/12 at 4:58pm
Bass traps in the soffit... you did a layer of pink stuff insulation and then a layer of cotton/denim insulation. Nobody around here sells the cotton stuff, so is it cool to just double up the pink or should I drop the dough ordering the denim online?
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post #1380 of 1841
5/3/12 at 6:53pm
Damelon, I'm really enjoying your build. Really looks professional. Keep up the hard work..... and the pictures.
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