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The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project - Page 5

post #121 of 2303
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post
What is your take on the green treated lumber for the stage and riser? It doesn't look like you are using it. I don't know the cost difference between green and non green, is it significant?
Cost difference is very small. Since you asked the same question about the walls, you should know my answer is the same. If you want to do everything by the book as far as basement construction goes, you should use it since it is built against the slab. My walls had a thin layer of foam under them and my stage/riser has felt. Since I won't ever really get major flooding, I just didn't care.
post #122 of 2303
Heh, sorry! I start framing next week, I spent all of yesterday watching old episodes of Homes on Holmes and it has me paranoid. (Vapor barriers, slab condensation, etc.)
post #123 of 2303
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post
Heh, sorry! I start framing next week, I spent all of yesterday watching old episodes of Homes on Holmes and it has me paranoid. (Vapor barriers, slab condensation, etc.)
Yeah it can easily make you paranoid. To be honest, if you haven't started yet, go ahead and just buy the pressure-treated lumber for anything that goes against your slab. It's less important on the riser/stage as they aren't normally part of a pre-drywall inspection. It's even more important the older you home is, or if you don't have a walk-out basement. Those tend to be more prone to flooding.

Vapor barriers are pretty important to make sure to do. Just make sure that you don't have a double-barrier. (IE: I had plastic vapor barrier against my concrete walls, and so we didn't use faced insulation on my stud wall inside of that)

Then there's fire-stopping. If you do a double-studded wall, you want to decouple your walls, but you can't just go hammer drywall across the tops of the two walls for fire-stopping or you just re-coupled the walls! So you would technically need to fill the top gap space with Roxul if you plan to get it inspected. Or you can use another kind of wall!
post #124 of 2303
IMHO opinion using PT lumber for a stage and riser in a historically dry basement is a waste of toxic chemicals.
post #125 of 2303
Thread Starter 
Sand in the stage will be done today. Have BIG penciled in to come finish the stage and riser plywood cutting and routing tomorrow.

Next will be the soffit. I've got to get my linear grilles ordered for the hvac ducting
post #126 of 2303
Well today we made it purty. I met with Damelon in the AM and he went to work, When he got back I was just cleaning up and he manned the vacuum.

Riser, When I left Damelon's on Sunday the first layer of decking had been screwed down, a layer of roofing felt and the second layer was just tacked down on the front edge. So I finished screwing the second layer then cut the 1 1/2 inch lip. I also rounded over the edge with a router to make the carpet wrap better. Since a decision was made to go with a single layer step I added a 2x2 extension lip so the step edge will match all the others in the theater.

Pictures:



Yes Damelon is planning the next steps, those blue tape marks are tentative column locations.








OK, now the other side of the room

Earlier this week Damelon had a helper fill all the tall sections of the stage with sand. Each section lined with 3mil plastic. Here is how it looked this AM.





I added a layer of 3/4 plywood and roofing felt.



Then another layer of 3/4. Then I scribed the curve and straight cuts and went after it. It was at this point the the stars lined up and when I finished cutting away the excess, it fell down and fit the first step perfectly. I actually stared at it a minute because I thought I was going to start from scratch cutting wood for the step. Instead I could use what fell into place with just an additional piece in the middle.

What fell on the right



On the left



Before I buttoned it up I stuffed the cavities



GOT STAGE!

post #127 of 2303
Great job!! I really like the shape of the stage.
post #128 of 2303
Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

Great job!! I really like the shape of the stage.

Agreed turned out really nice.
post #129 of 2303
What are the final dimensions of the stage?
post #130 of 2303
I think it is 181 x 52 or 53 inches. Need to put a tape on it. We just stood there and bent some wood until it looked about right. For visual reference we used two rows of roofing felt and they are 36 inches wide.
post #131 of 2303
how much sand did it take? Looks like a lot!
post #132 of 2303
That's because it IS a lot! Very nice stage guys.
post #133 of 2303
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post

how much sand did it take? Looks like a lot!

I purchased 80 50lb bags (4000lbs) of sand. I think I ended up using about 72 or so. About 8 short give or take a bag. It was about 5 bags per large bay or so if I remember correctly. We filled all of the full-height sections with sand in the end as you see. On the little step big just used leftover R38 we had from the riser.
post #134 of 2303
Quote:
Originally Posted by aackthpt View Post

Hmm, well my theatre IS red, all I'd need are some wavy white streaks.

Hmm, it might be fun to make theatre 2.0 bacon themed. Why not?

Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

I bet someone HAS or WILL. Wavy red and white to look like bacon? With posters of bacon? An animated frying bacon screensaver... endless possibilities!

Looks like someone beat you guys to it, check out this bacon themed THT.

Great work so far, looks like you and Big are in the grove.
post #135 of 2303
I would greatly appreciate some detail measurements as well, especially the curve depths. The proportions look spot on. Nice job!
post #136 of 2303
Quote:
Originally Posted by filetandrelease View Post

The proportions look spot on. Nice job!

Well there IS a professional on the job
post #137 of 2303
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerParty View Post

Looks like someone beat you guys to it, check out this bacon themed THT.

Hmm, good start but it's not a full bacon-themed HT. The full deal has to be like..... being ensconced in bacon.
post #138 of 2303
MDF SHUFFLING

So Last Night Damelon got the urge to work on the theater today so I headed over this morning. First order of business was to head out to pick up 2x2s and MDF for soffit construction.

Shuffle #1
Went to Lowe's had some new on the shelf 2x2s and we snagged 44. Went to the MDF shelf and it was empty, checked the computer none in the store. They said it wouldn't have mattered their panel saw was not working.

Shuffle #2
Went to the adjacent HD and they only had 2 mangled sheets - We left them

Shuffle #3
They called the other local HD and verified that they had some in stock, so 20 minutes later we arrived at the third store and found a new pallet load.

Shuffle #4

We loaded 3 sheets on the cart and headed to the saw location where we had them ripped into 12 inch strips

Shuffle #5 out to the truck

Shuffle #6 drove home

Shuffle #7 carried them into the basement

We put up 2x2 strips screwed into the channel around the room in position to hang the outer edge of the 12 inch tall soffit.





then hung some MDF for the front face of the soffit for the front and one side wall.



We mocked up the light box tray and tacked it up





It was at this point we stood back to admire our work and both came to the conclusion that a 12 inch tall soffit was too tall

Shuffle #8 took the MDF down

Shuffle #9 loaded it on the truck

Shuffle #10 drove back to HD

Shuffle #11 brought it into the store and had them cut the 12s down to 10s (the value of a portable job-site table saw can't be underestimated here)

Shuffle #12 Back on the truck

Shuffle #13 drove home

Shuffle #14 carried back to the basement

Shuffle #15 put it all back on the ceiling this time doing all four walls.



Then we tackled building some custom register boots for 6 x 24 supply and return vents. Built a box with plywood and some of the leftover MDF sealed the joints with leftover acoustical caulk.



Added some Linacoustic lining to quiet the box





Then put on the bottoms, The slots are intentionally in different positions based on intended locations.



We intend to reach up through the slots and screw to the ceiling inside the soffits.

A shuffling Video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U74Ux...eature=related
post #139 of 2303
Nice update. It looks like you guys are continuing to make great progress. I really like the register boots. I was planning to do something similar (36 inch outlets), but with duct board. I like the idea of using the MDF since it is denser. I think I may go this route instead. The only difference is that mine will be in the ceiling between the joists, so I need to form some kind of sound deadening around them to keep sound form escaping. I was thinking on building double drywall + green glue boxes around the flex duct and filling it with insulation to help prevent sound escaping through the registers. Hopefully it will work.

Did you order your registers yet? Just curious as to what they look like.

Keep the updates coming.

Nick
post #140 of 2303
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

Nice update. It looks like you guys are continuing to make great progress. I really like the register boots. I was planning to do something similar (36 inch outlets), but with duct board. I like the idea of using the MDF since it is denser. I think I may go this route instead. The only difference is that mine will be in the ceiling between the joists, so I need to form some kind of sound deadening around them to keep sound form escaping. I was thinking on building double drywall + green glue boxes around the flex duct and filling it with insulation to help prevent sound escaping through the registers. Hopefully it will work.

Did you order your registers yet? Just curious as to what they look like.

While these are just the boots, soundproofers will tell you that your ductboard idea is great, but you should still encase the ductboard in MDF. It's just more expensive than flex duct. This is normally more than enough, but if you use ductboard make sure that it makes at least 2-3 90 degree turns. If you use flexduct make sure it is packed with insulation around the duct inside of the MDF casing, and you should have it snaking in an S shape in any soffits between joists, etc so that the sound can't travel cleanly through.

Originally I was going to buy 4" x 36" linear bar registers. But they need to be special ordered and are pretty costly. I just went with 6" x 24" return grilles from your every day home depot. They are Plain-Jane and ugly. But we will paint them black and they will vanish against the black GOM we will be putting on the bottom of the soffits. I decided to just use return registers because they are 1 directional. Since I have my supply on the side of the room, and the return at the rear center, the air will blow into the middle of the room and be pulled toward the back across the seating area. No need to have air blowing towards the screen.
post #141 of 2303
Thread Starter 
Chairs Ordered! Black leather (non-bonded) Berkline Renos with power recline (Now known as Lane Matinee, but Ashley furniture just purchased all of the Berkline designs and they will be back on the market as Berkline!) In a |OOO| and |O|OO|O| seating configuration. Delivery in mid-september.

Also ordered: Fabric for the walls. GOM FR701 "Claret Accent" (Blood Red) and GOM FR701 "Black"
post #142 of 2303
Oh great, now you are going to want to work even faster!
post #143 of 2303
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Oh great, now you are going to want to work even faster!

Not really... I just like to be prepared and don't like waiting for things when I need them!
post #144 of 2303
You guys are just flying along at dare I say a "record pace"
post #145 of 2303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iusteve View Post

You guys are just flying along at dare I say a "record pace"

Yes, it is hard to believe that Damelon posted pictures of the initial demo 26 days ago.
post #146 of 2303
... and you guys passed Logan about 23 days ago ... (says the guy who has still not finished his build after 3+ years)
post #147 of 2303
Can I ask what kind of lights are you using on the riser? Will they be on a dimmer? How many light zones if any will you have? Is it best to have the riser lights on its own dimmer/zone or connected to other lights?
Ok my 50 questions are up

Thanks!
post #148 of 2303
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rthompson10 View Post
Can I ask what kind of lights are you using on the riser? Will they be on a dimmer? How many light zones if any will you have? Is it best to have the riser lights on its own dimmer/zone or connected to other lights?
Ok my 50 questions are up

Thanks!
We got these riser lights:
http://www.csnstores.com/show_detail...RYP2559&refid=
They come with both a vertical panel (shown) and horizontal (what we are using).

We will put all of our lights on dimmers, no matter if we dim them or not. We are having 4 light zones:

1) Riser Step Lights
2) Soffit Light Tray : Sides & Rear
3) Soffit Light Tray : Gimbled screen lights
4) Rope light : top side of light tray for the tray ceiling accents

BIG and I have discussed 2 different light zones for the tray ceiling. One for white rope light, another for black light to charge the star ceiling.

In my wife's movie room at her old house, her step lights were on a motion detector, but I hated it. So don't do that.
post #149 of 2303
Damelon
Thanks!
I am planning on some zones- will have front and rear sconces, riser lights, rope light on ceiling rear high hats- was thinking riser as 1 zone front lights as 1, rear lights as 1(sconces and rear high hats) and soffit rope light as one- not sure how that sounds
Robert
post #150 of 2303
Did some more work on the Theater today

First we hung the duct boots.

Screwed to the ceiling and to the soffit.

Here is the rear return



Then banged up the 2x2 ladders finishing off the soffit structure, The parts of the soffit not housing the ductwork will contain cotton insulation and function as a base trap. They will be covered with black GOM fabric.









We ran a two inch conduit from the equipment room to the front behind the screen wall for all the speaker wire runs for the fronts and subs.







Here we are validating the light box dimensions. The light box around the room will house some 3 inch recessed lights and up lighting for the ceiling. It will curve out over the stage and be straight along the sides.

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