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The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project - Page 6

post #151 of 2309
Thread Starter 
Now if I stop sweating bullets over the light-tray & column designs, not to mention my credit card statements, I'll be a happy camper!
post #152 of 2309
Good work on the soffits and stage. It's really coming along quickly and looking great. I look forward to seeing how you put up the light-tray. I'm still going through ideas in that department.
post #153 of 2309
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tmhouse View Post

Good work on the soffits and stage. It's really coming along quickly and looking great. I look forward to seeing how you put up the light-tray. I'm still going through ideas in that department.

We are pretty sure about how we are putting it up. It is going to be a simple design. (See the last picture BIG posted). Basically half of a box. A 5.5" piece of MDF with a 6" piece of MDF screwed to the end. There will be a few support pieces inside of the L for stability and to help screw in the box higher up, but mostly the tray will be held in place by screwing it into the bottom of the soffit. The top will be open. This will allow wiring to be done easily, heat to leave the tray, and also because it just isn't seen, so it isn't needed. Keeps the weight down.

What we are really working on is how we are going to finish the box. We are looking at veneering, some combinations of paint and stain, etc. BIG is also experimenting with some mouldings.

The primary color type of both the columns and the light box will match, and will be a red color to be close to the color of the GOM.
post #154 of 2309
Quote:


Basically half of a box. A 5.5" piece of MDF with a 6" piece of MDF screwed to the end...

What we are really working on is how we are going to finish the box. We are looking at veneering, some combinations of paint and stain, etc. BIG is also experimenting with some mouldings.

Just out of curiosity, have you looked at how expensive it would be to use solid hardwood? It would be stronger, lighter and easier than veneering. Something like poplar might not be too much more expensive than the MDF+veneer route. Poplar can be finished to give a good imitation of cherry (for example) at a much lower cost. FYI, buying hardwood at a big box store is WAY more expensive than buying from a specialty wood store.
post #155 of 2309
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightp View Post

Just out of curiosity, have you looked at how expensive it would be to use solid hardwood? It would be stronger, lighter and easier than veneering. Something like poplar might not be too much more expensive than the MDF+veneer route. Poplar can be finished to give a good imitation of cherry (for example) at a much lower cost. FYI, buying hardwood at a big box store is WAY more expensive than buying from a specialty wood store.

Yeah, I've looked at it. I wouldn't be worried about the staining. We would only need to find the right color stain for the wood we choose. The front would be a little harder with the curved piece if we used solid wood and to keep the stain, since we'd have to use thin bendable material. Yeah I do know that hardwood is cheaper at a lumber store than like home depot/lowes. BIG is experimenting right now and wants to show me the results before we make any decisions.
post #156 of 2309
damelon,

Nice soffit design, identical to mine!! Used the same MDF & wood latter (I used 2x3, only thing close to straight at my Lowes).

I also fretted over the light tray, ended up using crown molding, stained to match my baseboard. Was worried if there was enough room for the rope light and the effect. Everything worked out, it looks great. See link: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post20740440

RPA
post #157 of 2309
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RPA View Post

damelon,

Nice soffit design, identical to mine!! Used the same MDF & wood latter (I used 2x3, only thing close to straight at my Lowes).

I also fretted over the light tray, ended up using crown molding, stained to match my baseboard. Was worried if there was enough room for the rope light and the effect. Everything worked out, it looks great. See link: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post20740440

RPA

Yeah when BIG and I were at Lowes the day we picked up the materials for the Stage/Riser, the 2x2s there were absolutely terrible. When we came back later for the soffit they had a brand new pallet of 2x2s and they were in excellent shape.

BIG is really excited to show me his idea of moldings on the light tray. For our build, the recessed lights will not exit in the soffit area you see so far in this build. The soffit will be filled with bulk cotton and covered with black GOM on the bottom. The light tray will be inside of the existing soffit. BIG is experimenting with the look of putting the trim inside of that. He has some column ideas too, as do I.

In other news, Bryan Pape just finished my audio treatment plan. We're going to do 2" 3lb cotton on the front wall, full coverage. OC703 in the front corners triangle cut for bass traps. Soffit filled with bulk cotton. Side walls from front bass absorbers to the side-rear columns will have floor to ceiling 1" 3lb cotton. Between rear side columns and rear wall, the cotton will be to only 5' high to allow for some surround reflection. The rear wall will be 4" OC703 with paper facing. All walls will be covered with GOM FR701 fabric.
post #158 of 2309
Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

BIG is really excited to show me his idea of moldings on the light tray.

Pictures of the mock up of the light tray will be posted as soon as the satin poly finish top coat dries. The can says 3 hours. I'm on to mocking up some concepts for the columns while it rains.
post #159 of 2309
Having a little trouble capturing the redness of the faux stain but here are a couple shots of the light tray mock up.

First the concept

6 inches tall, the mini recessed lights go where the sanding sealer can is sitting



It would be mounted like this. Black ceiling and black soffit face (GOM).



I rushed it and the screw holes show which they wouldn't if we go live with this design. A few finger prints where I was testing the finish. It looks redder in person but I think we need to go even redder. Need to put it next to the actual red fabric to see.

post #160 of 2309
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Having a little trouble capturing the redness of the faux stain but here are a couple shots of the light tray mock up.

I rushed it and the screw holes show which they wouldn't if we go live with this design. A few finger prints where I was testing the finish. It looks redder in person but I think we need to go even redder. Need to put it next to the actual red fabric to see.

Looking good there BIG! Yeah the color is going to be the tough part. I think Ruben had to mix two colors when he did his to get it right. The color of the fabric is your typical old-school "red velvet" ropes. It's not a cherry red. The stan is also never going to be that color either. So we just need to find something that looks good with it.
post #161 of 2309
We could also just pick a solid color that works and skip the Faux staining effect.
post #162 of 2309
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

We could also just pick a solid color that works and skip the Faux staining effect.

Went to Lowes, the closest color match was Valspar "Royal Garnet" to the GOM Clarent Accent fabric. It definitely has a shade of purple to it, though it is still is very red.

Got the ceiling and soffit sides primed before they get painted black. Debating a second primer coat. That drywall was really sucking it up.
post #163 of 2309
Damelon and I have been kicking around ideas for the columns. Recalling that this theater is inspired by the Sandman's which had round veneered columns we worked on some concepts to dress up a basic square column in a style that would compliment the rest of the theater and the previous Light Tray design.

So I started with a concept of adding some bump out rounded molding and some kind of design (subject to change) on the base of the columns



I decided to make a full size segment of the column in "Hollywood Style" with only two finished sides to see how the concept translated into the real world 3D.



Here are a couple of angles of the mock-up painted with the paint Damelon mentioned. Some things under consideration. Painting the between stripes black or a darker color. Alternatively putting metallic laminate in the slots. Maybe squeezing the three pieces of molding a little closer together leaving a 3/4 inch gap instead of what is shown. Black GOM on top for the speakers.



post #164 of 2309
Thread Starter 
Is it me or do all of the reds in your pictures turn out brown? I'd have to see that in person next to the fabric to see if the color is right.
post #165 of 2309
Yea, it is a lot more purple in person. Let me try to adjust the picture, I need to charge up my other camera where I can adjust the white balance.
post #166 of 2309
The above pics of mock columns definitely appear more reddish brown to me than any sort of garnet color. The first pics of the soffit looked a little closer to a 'red' imho. All looks good to me excellent teamwork there guys.
post #167 of 2309
Are you guys going with sconces and if so, will they be located on the column, or in between the columns? Picked out any cool designs yet?
post #168 of 2309
Quote:
Originally Posted by
[IMG
View Post

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/Ds%20Theater/DSCF5311.jpg[/IMG]

It would be mounted like this. Black ceiling and black soffit face (GOM).


Looks like Big used MDF to mock up the light tray. Is that what you're going to use for the final product? That's got to end up being heavy. How will you fasten the light tray to the vertical surface of the soffet?
post #169 of 2309
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightp View Post

Looks like Big used MDF to mock up the light tray. Is that what you're going to use for the final product? That's got to end up being heavy. How will you fasten the light tray to the vertical surface of the soffet?

1)There is a precedent Sandman used MDF.

2) Blocking, details to follow, once I figure out the easiest way to attach to the soffit face. I would rather screw from the front rather than reaching up blind to screw from the back. (Tom, please no comments)
post #170 of 2309
OK, so I charged up my DSLR where I have more control over white balance. Dragged everything outside so that I could shoot in daylight. Actually shade with flash fill.

Here is the crimson everybody was looking for. I also put some black (top) and some black mixed with the crimson (bottom) in the groves and I'm not sure I care for the look. In the final theater they will be lit from directly above so the grooves will be a darker shadow anyway. If we paint I can see I'm going to need to do several coats of the black.

post #171 of 2309
Quote:


2) Blocking, details to follow, once I figure out the easiest way to attach to the soffit face. I would rather screw from the front rather than reaching up blind to screw from the back. (Tom, please no comments)

Maybe make the light tray in the shape of a U, instead of an L. That would let you screw through one vertical surface into another vertical surface. With some blocking inside the U, it should be plenty strong, even with MDF.

Quote:


Alternatively putting metallic laminate in the slots. Maybe squeezing the three pieces of molding a little closer together leaving a 3/4 inch gap instead of what is shown.

I like both of these ideas.
post #172 of 2309
Thread Starter 
Yes! That is more like the color I was hoping for. I like that paint. I think I also agree with you that at least the "shadowed" color isn't as good as keeping it all one color. I'd like to see it completely black, and then try putting in some steel/nickel/aluminum bands as well to see how it looks. But I think one color for the trim is my current preference.

We spent a long time looking at Ruben's (aka Sandman/SMX) light tray design and it looks like it screwed it into the bottom, with a few pieces of blocking inside of each tray to allow a few bits screwed in higher up. I agree that if it was a "U" shape, it would give it all the stability it needs. At the same time, I think that blocking would accomplish all that the weight requires without all of that additional MDF. I even thought it was completely enclosed originally ( a complete box ) but couldn't figure out an easy way to wire it that way. Then BIG was pointing out that he didn't think they had tops. After looking at several shots many times we concluded they didn't have backs either. Thus half of the weight, easy to wire, recessed rope lighting, etc. We can always build it as an L, finish it, try to mount it, and if it doesn't work a back could easily be added with minimal work.

Gravity and Force will come into play too. Based on an L shape, each piece would have a tendency to pull downward and inward based on the most weight being on the inside edge. However, on the long large sides there would be the two other light tray sections blocking the ability for the force to move inward, not to mention being scewed together. On the front and the back, they would also be scewed into the two side trays. In the end making a big square which would have only the total weight pulling straight down. In that case the vertical screws into the bottom of the soffit should be more than enough to hold it up.
post #173 of 2309
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post

Are you guys going with sconces and if so, will they be located on the column, or in between the columns? Picked out any cool designs yet?

No sconces. We are doing small recessed lights in the light tray, one over each column, and one light in between each column section, along with a row of gimble lights to point toward the screen and reflect the light into the room. In addition, there will be rope light above the light tray to put non-direct light into the tray ceiling, and step lights.
post #174 of 2309
i hate my ceiling height, i have a ton of money and i can't do anything to fix my 7.5' basement ceiling! WEAK!
post #175 of 2309
Sure there is... dig up the concrete, and dig it down.
post #176 of 2309
And that would cost....? lol. By ton of money, don't think I mean I could cover that. That's the foundation of the house, how will that work?
post #177 of 2309
That looks real nice. Big can you spin that around and show us a picture of the rear?
post #178 of 2309
Quote:
Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post

That looks real nice. Big can you spin that around and show us a picture of the rear?

I could but it would be a big disappointment. It is nothing but a three sided box with a top. I just glued and nailed the edges together. All the relief is on the surface of the box. If we go into production mode I'll take pictures of the steps I used to make the bump. Basically some MDF half moons nailed and glued to the surface, covered with some 3/16 MDF, Then molding added. The 3/16 MDF was actually some leftover faux wood paneling with the unfinished back side facing out.
post #179 of 2309
Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

We can always build it as an L, finish it, try to mount it, and if it doesn't work a back could easily be added with minimal work.

Actually I think the best strategy is to put up the bottom and blocking first. Then pop in all the lighting and wire it up. Then add the fronts (3 pieces) Fill the nail/screw holes and sand then paint in place. That way all the pieces can be overlapped to increase the strength and maintain the tightness of the joints.

The light fixture bottom parts come off so nothing will be sticking down during the painting.
post #180 of 2309
I think this design for light tray support blocking will be the quickest to make and install. I would use plywood instead of the MDF to avoid the edge splitting issue. Maybe even rip and cut some 2x6s instead. They would give a larger landing zone for attaching the light tray.

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