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The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project - Page 51

post #1501 of 2302
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

The biggest problem with MDF is the edges, If you will have exposed edges I still like the Sanding sealer, Apply, sand, Apply sand, Prime, sand, Paint, Paint. Sometimes some wood filler needs to be added to the process depending on how well the boards were cut and assembled. On the Speaker builder forum a lot of the guys use Bondo on the edges and seams then sand and finish.

now i am starting to see why some people apply molding to the exposed edges.... so if you bondo the edges then can you just use a primer? maybe i am understand this wrong but is the main reason for sand and sealer for the exposed edges/cut edges does the flat part of the mdf take primer and paint without issue?
post #1502 of 2302
Yes, I'm not sure if its because there's some kind of sealer already applied to the faces of MDF, or just because it is sanded smooth as part of the production process - but the edges of MDF suck up paint / primer and raise "grain" (not really grain, fibers) a lot more than on the faces.

I had good luck on the rounded over MDF corners on the speakers I'm building, by painting a coat of thinned PVA glue (2 parts water, 1 part Titebond), and sanding it. Then prime, sand, prime (probably didn't need that second primer coat, but why not), then two coats of rolled on eggshell black.
post #1503 of 2302
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

moved to the wall, you can see with fastened 2 inch furring strips to the walls to hold the panels, these were 2x3s cut down and attached with 3 1/2 inch screws.



How did you attach these 2'' fabric panels to the furring strips?
post #1504 of 2302
Liquid Nails and the longest finishing nails my 16 gauge gun would shoot. One in each corner.
post #1505 of 2302
And what type of screws did you use to secure the soffit 2x2 to the wall and ceiling? In order to penetrate the 2 layers of drywall and the channel i presume 2.5" fine thread wood screw of some sort?
post #1506 of 2302
Either 3 or 3 1/2 inch course threads Plus Liquid nails. Star drive deck screws also work.
Edited by BIGmouthinDC - 9/23/12 at 1:50pm
post #1507 of 2302
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Either 3 or 3 1/2 inch course threads Plus Liquid nails. Star drive deck screws also work.

Yeah we used star drive on almost everything to keep the bit from slipping. Really helpful. (Plus BIG's cordless driver/drills are awesome) I think really you would add up the drywall + furring and add 1/2" to the screw length is a good rule of thumb for the channel.

Completely unrelated, the wife and I watched "Battleship" last night, which yes, I knew was a bad movie, but is a summer "popcorn" movie and should have been fun. The sound in this movie is incredible. The story is stupid, characters flat, yeah yeah... think of it like transformers, just an audio/visual treat. Some of the scenes like the plane flyover of the Missouri, ship w/ waves sounded literally like you were standing there. It was a very impressive audio track.

After 1 year by the way, the Sony projector still looks beautiful. I am so happy I got this projector. I'll be checking out Avengers/Prometheus at home in 3D soon, so see how the 3D brightness has held up over a year. I was worried about all of the bulb dimming I had read about in the past, but I personally haven't noticed any yet, although I am sure there has been some. It's nice to have a pitch black theater. Even with that 130" wide screen, it is still plenty bright a year after purchase. I couldn't have been happier. Also, I have noticed my audio is much better after getting my pre-amp and subs serviced. When I re-calibrated my Audyssey after getting my pre-amp back, it now asked me to tune my subs to 75db instead of 35db previously. And my subs after being tuned correctly show a much better range after getting fixed. So I was blasting Battleship yesterday and was smiling ear to ear seeing the visuals pop off the screen after a year running the projector, and the sound field completely emmersive and crisp. Going to really enjoy watching the Avengers later this week!
Edited by damelon - 9/24/12 at 7:13am
post #1508 of 2302
Damelon, what sheen did you use for your soffit light tray (the red color)?
post #1509 of 2302
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by vanice View Post

Damelon, what sheen did you use for your soffit light tray (the red color)?

Satin
post #1510 of 2302
Vanice, ask him how many coats.
post #1511 of 2302
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Vanice, ask him how many coats.

Ha! I remember that ordeal. But at least you guys got it right. That's what counts.

Thanks for the info Damelon.
post #1512 of 2302
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Vanice, ask him how many coats.

Haha! :P Next time I'll just use contact paper instead of paint!!
post #1513 of 2302
oh no i was so to get my lights trays done up until i realized how much of a pain the butt they will be paint smile.gif
post #1514 of 2302
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

I just put 6 LEDs in my kitchen cans and installed a dimmer specifically rated for LEDs. Unfortunately I can't find a picture of the exact lights, but it's the bulb, transformer(?) and trim ring in one. The really nice thing about the install is that they can be installed in a standard 4" ceiling box as well. Wish I knew that in the first place and I wouldn't have installed cans. Anyway, I noticed that they only dim about halfway and then start flashing. It's very annoying. Sometimes, if I set the dimmer where I want it and THEN turn on the lights, they stay dimmed WITHOUT flashing, but not every time. It's SOOoooo confusing. LOGANESS wants them on full when she's cooking anyway, so I guess it really doesn't matter. And I like to eat, so I don't argue.
My point is that , yes, there have been issues with dimmers not actually turning off, other than incandescent bulbs, all the way.

Tom:

From your description I am guessing those are the Commercial Electric LEDs sold by Home Depot or the Sylvania clones sold by Menard's . I have 6 of those in my Home Theater and 2 in my Laundry Room. I have them installed in 4" J boxes. They are very bright and run very cool. Anyway, the reason for my post was to tell you what I discovered about using dimmers with them. After talking with Home Depot, Commercial Electric, and Lutron they all determined that the directions in the Commercial Electric LED box are wrong. These particular LED lights do not work well with LED specific dimmers but work fine with standard incandescent dimmers. I have the ones in my Home Theater working with a Lutron Mastro Remote Control dimmer and the ones in my laundry room working with a standard rotary dimmer. I don't get any of the flashing you are talking about and they dim through just about the full range. They also turn off and on with no problems other than a few second LED warm up. It took several phone calls and some experimentation to discover this but my LED lights are working fine now with no further problems.

While you can install these as I did in 4" J boxes I think most people would install them in cans as bulb replacements as you did. If you were installing them as bulb replacements most people would already have incandescent dimmers installed. I think they just made them compatible with the already installed incandescent dimmers to ease installation but never clearly stated that in the instructions.
Edited by macfan - 10/1/12 at 9:51pm
post #1515 of 2302
Mac - Thanks for the tip! So I looked them up on the HD site and NOW it says max of 5 fixtures per dimmer....I have 6. I do not recall seeing that in any of the directions either. I simply used the wattage rating of the dimmer (600w) and these are WAAAY under that. I guess the transformer has something to do with it. I'll try switching out the dimmer, anyway.
post #1516 of 2302
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

Mac - Thanks for the tip! So I looked them up on the HD site and NOW it says max of 5 fixtures per dimmer....I have 6. I do not recall seeing that in any of the directions either. I simply used the wattage rating of the dimmer (600w) and these are WAAAY under that. I guess the transformer has something to do with it. I'll try switching out the dimmer, anyway.

Tom:

I saw that about only 5 LED lights per dimmer too. I see no reason why your 6 LED lights wouldn't work though. I think the only reason over 5 might be a problem is that the dimmer might run a little warm with the resistance of 6 LED lights. I think you will be fine with 6 lights as long as you don't get crazy and put a dozen lights on one dimmer. I would get a quality incandescent dimmer like a Pass & Semore, Levitron, or Lutron if you are going to put 6 on one dimmer and try not to leave the dimmer on 24/7 and build up heat. Usually when they give those warnings about putting only 5 lights on one dimmer they underestimate them as they know the average yahoo is going to push the limits and they want a margin for error.
Edited by macfan - 10/2/12 at 7:51am
post #1517 of 2302
Thanks again. We never leave the lights on all time. The style dimmer I use has the thin toggle switch with the slider on the side so, "off" is OFF.
post #1518 of 2302
Damelon - For your fabric frames in the back corners, did you bevel the edges in the corner or were they both flat and one tee'd into the other?
post #1519 of 2302
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by vanice View Post

Damelon - For your fabric frames in the back corners, did you bevel the edges in the corner or were they both flat and one tee'd into the other?

No beveling for either of the corner pieces. Keep in mind the rear panels were 2" thick, had 2" material in them, and then were mounted 2" away from the wall. (Totalling 4") So there was 4" of space on each side of them. The side panels continued like 3" or so past the back panels in the corners, but it appears like a joint.
post #1520 of 2302
Thread Starter 
So the wife and I have a lot of "future projects" lined up. One of which is finishing our rec room.

We plan to put a tile or concrete epoxy floor (they have some cool metallic ones now), Put a stone wall along the wall where the theater room is, finish the bar, add sconces, etc.

One thing I want to plan for is audio. The room has 2 ceiling speakers hooked up to the whole house audio. That's fine and all, except we don't want the music in the rest of the house to be the same as the music in the rec room. We would like a bit more bass and a different audio source. One thing my wife brought up is the ability to control the audio from the bar area. I was wondering what the ideal way for me to hook that up would be. My theater utility room is situated behind the bar, so I can put another amplifier on the rack for this room. I know I can run speaker wires to some nicer in-wall speakers or even to standard wall plates that I can hook up some speakers to. But what if I want to control the volume from that amp at the bar?

I was thinking the easiest thing (and cheapest) would be to run an IR-repeater to the bar area and just have the remote out there. And then some sort of wall-plate that I can use as an input source from a laptop or ipod dock. I know I could control a playlist via wifi on a laptop without cords but then I'd need some remote computer to act as the base-station for it. My HTPC wouldn't work since it is already connected to my other receiver. Just trying to figure out what the best way to get the audio to the receiver is going to be. Most laptops have HDMI but I don't need the video. I could do RCA but then i'd have to use the headphone jack. Thoughts?
post #1521 of 2302
Does your receiver have a zone 2 output? Then you could use your HTPC easily for audio.
post #1522 of 2302
I've been thinking of picking up a used Apple TV or AirPlay and using the second zone on my receiver as aaustin suggested. Then, as long as an iPad or iPhone is within reach, I can startup whatever playlist I like. EDIT: To clarify, the Apple TV would go in the rack with your receiver. This would require network connectivity and an additional input on your receiver.

The only catch is turning on the receiver and setting the input when you decide you want to listen to some music. That may require another remote or some additional hardware depending on your receiver.
post #1523 of 2302
Keep in mind that some receivers (I know that my Onkyo TX-NR609 is one of them) only output analog sources for zone 2. That means that the newer Apple TV's with only HDMI and optical outputs won't work. I know Monoprice sells a digital to analog converter though which could get around it.

In regards to controlling the receiver, my Onkyo has a slick app that lets me do everything over the home network.
post #1524 of 2302
Have you looked at Sonos? The minimum cost of entry is $350 for one zone player. If you need an amplified zone player it's $500. But keep in mind, it's a gateway drug. You will buy more zones.

The sonos system and software is so insanely good that you really should check them out.
post #1525 of 2302
Quote:
Originally Posted by petew View Post

Have you looked at Sonos? The minimum cost of entry is $350 for one zone player. If you need an amplified zone player it's $500. But keep in mind, it's a gateway drug. You will buy more zones.
The sonos system and software is so insanely good that you really should check them out.
I 2nd to take a look at Sonos for simple background/wholehouse music. I was thinking to some fancy complicated wholehouse audio distribution, but at the end, why go the hard way when something very simple works. So far, I have a Play5 in the study/home office, a Play3 in my daughter's nursery (excellent for those baby background music for her!), and 2 Connect (1 in the family room, 1 in the masterbed). We love it super simple to use, either via any Apple iProduct or from a PC. I'll eventually get another Connect for the HT when it's done too.
post #1526 of 2302
Quote:
Originally Posted by petew View Post

Have you looked at Sonos? The minimum cost of entry is $350 for one zone player. If you need an amplified zone player it's $500. But keep in mind, it's a gateway drug. You will buy more zones.
The sonos system and software is so insanely good that you really should check them out.

i third that there something to be said for a product that is simple and just works and sonos is just that a great product user friendly every body i have talked to that owns sonos can not stop talking about how much they love it
i have a user at that loves it has setup to play certain music in the morning to wake them up .... the possibilities are endless
post #1527 of 2302
+1 on the Sonos. Terrific system -- not cheap, but very good, and very simple to set up.

As we used to tell our customers: Fast, Cheap, Good -- Pick Two....
post #1528 of 2302
Thread Starter 
I haven't looked at the Sonos system. I will do some research on it.

With the rest of our house, we do have a whole-house system and just use an XM-Radio terminal, which works fine. The volume isn't great though. With the rec-room, I want it much louder. Since it is a large space, and we have parties, I want it to be loud enough to be able to let people dance. That being said, I'd likely drive the whole thing with my music collection. I'm used to using things like Winamp through my laptop. That product has been around forever and it still is so easy to use. I'd probably shy away from Apple TV though. I like my ipod and all, but I hate iTunes.

Also, yes, my pre-amp does have Zone 2 capability, but I would need an additional amp to drive any more speakers. Not to mention, it would only support 2 more speakers total. I'd much rather get something separate. I also do have an old high end yamaha receiver I could use, though it doesn't have any HDMI inputs, it would be just fine to drive a ton of good powered speakers. It does have Optical/Coax inputs though.
post #1529 of 2302
Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

I haven't looked at the Sonos system. I will do some research on it.
With the rest of our house, we do have a whole-house system and just use an XM-Radio terminal, which works fine. The volume isn't great though. With the rec-room, I want it much louder. Since it is a large space, and we have parties, I want it to be loud enough to be able to let people dance. That being said, I'd likely drive the whole thing with my music collection. I'm used to using things like Winamp through my laptop. That product has been around forever and it still is so easy to use. I'd probably shy away from Apple TV though. I like my ipod and all, but I hate iTunes.
Also, yes, my pre-amp does have Zone 2 capability, but I would need an additional amp to drive any more speakers. Not to mention, it would only support 2 more speakers total. I'd much rather get something separate. I also do have an old high end yamaha receiver I could use, though it doesn't have any HDMI inputs, it would be just fine to drive a ton of good powered speakers. It does have Optical/Coax inputs though.


i dunno how tech savvy your wife is i know mine is pretty good with technology but she even sometimes gets confused with some of the stuff i have setup ..... what comes easy to us because we build or configure it.... may not be easy for a a every day user..... this where sonos shines ....
post #1530 of 2302
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by snickers1 View Post

i dunno how tech savvy your wife is i know mine is pretty good with technology but she even sometimes gets confused with some of the stuff i have setup ..... what comes easy to us because we build or configure it.... may not be easy for a a every day user..... this where sonos shines ....

So I started to look at SONOS stuff this morning.... Holy crap, you aren't kidding that it is expensive! If we didn't already have whole house audio, this would be something that I'd probably get. For one room though, the cost is kind of high. I really like the way it all hooks together, control from the phone/tablet is cool too.

Do I have to buy the "Bridge" or does my existing WiFi work? Seems to show that I don't have to have a bridge, like it's basically just a wireless access point. Or do I have to used the Wired mode on the spekaers if I don't have a bridge? Do I have to use a "Connect" at all, or only if I want to also hook up my theater at the same time to the sound on the Sonos system? I guess in that case it doesn't end up being very expensive. Just a couple of Sonos speakers.

I do have a pair of Paradigm Studio 100s which are sitting in my old HT in my rental house I could use, a Paradigm sub, and an old Yamaha receiver that I could use, which would be very loud.... the problem is that it is also very big. Not sure if I want to put those big bulky components in there or not. But whenever the word FREE comes into discussion, I have to consider it.
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