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The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project - Page 65

post #1921 of 2308
Thanks for the write up. Do you have a link for the transformer?
post #1922 of 2308
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BllDo View Post

Thanks for the write up. Do you have a link for the transformer?

I purchased this one - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006IJE0X0/ref=pe_385040_30332190_pe_175190_21431760_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

I was going to get a smaller one, but I was reading in reviews of different tape lights how power decreases as the length increases, along with watts per bulb, per foot, etc. So in the end I went a littler higher than I needed, but it lit everything up fine. It's not quite as big as a standard house brick. It is a very solid piece of equipment. The picture is a great example of how the wires come.
post #1923 of 2308
Thanks.
post #1924 of 2308
Thread Starter 
Weekend Update : Wow.. what horrible weather. Some people might love it hot and humid in the summer, but on both Saturday and Sunday when I was done with my work my t-shirts were soaked. Comfort non-withstanding, I actually accomplished a lot! I measured out and ran 3 more speaker wire connections outside and spooled them up. This should cover all of the locations I boxed off in that patio render image a page or two back. Since that was just snaking cables, no real write-up there.

Preface:
The other project I started on will include a detailed write-up. Installing my De-Kor LED lights. I marked up some "Before" pictures, but you might need to click on them to see them full size in order to see the things I drew in Paint. Basically, I wanted the ability to have some Low Voltage LED lighting along the perimeter underside of my deck. The way they built my deck was to do a standard build out, and then case all of the exterior-facing areas with white PVC board. When I started to research ceiling drainage systems for under my deck, one thing that was very common with a lot of the methods of installation was that the ceiling rests below your joists, and unless you can put in gutters on both sides, they are angled to allow water to flow to one side. On my deck, they used PVC board to create archways between each column. The problem that this caused in combination with a drainage-ceiling is that the arches on the side of the deck had no "End Beam", and therefore were a foot higher up than the arches along the end of the deck. This meant that the apex of each arch was about 1.25 inches from the bottom of the joists. Once any ceiling was put in, the ceiling itself would be lower than the apex of the arch. I was told by the installer which I am using that in this case they would just install some additional pressure treated boards along the inside to mount the side rails of the ceiling to. This would mean I'd see ugly wood board against the white arch from the outisde and inside of my deck. Not good. So the LED light project is a two-part project. The first part was to install the 9 LED lights along the cased beam at the end of my deck that exists today (Will show process below) and the sides of my deck will have the trim lowered a foot to match the end this Wednesday, at which point I will install LED lights along the sides in a similar fashion as the ones on the end.

Before Pictures:

In this first image, you can get a good idea of the side trim. Click on the image to see the area which I boxed in. That piece of arched trim will be removed and placed a foot lower. A 1 foot piece of square trim will be placed above it, and a hollow casement will be created to look like the end beam on the inside. In a way, it will be a light tray.


This next image shows the other side (And short 2 foot angled corner) as well as two sections of the end beam between the column. I marked the locations of where I planned to install some LED lights in this image too. The blue box is the area that will be lowered to match, and the red circles are the LED light locations:

post #1925 of 2308
Thread Starter 
Steps:

1) I measured each of the sections along the end beam between each column. They all had different lengths. I marked the middle of each section, as well as locations for the two side LED lights. The side lights on the left section were marked 13" from the ends since it is wider than the other sections, 11" from the columns in the middle section since it was the smallest section, and 12" from the columns in the area over the bar countertop. I marked the PVC board with a pencil.

2) I took a look at the lights that I was installing. Each light came in two parts. The LED light itself, along with a 6' pigtail wire, and a white end cap, which the LED light gets mounted in and provides a lip over a drilled hole.

Here is an example of an LED light:


And here is the cap that comes with it:


Thread the wire through the cap and you have one assembled light!


3) The kit also comes with a special drill bit, which is made to fit the end cap dimensions exactly.


4) Using that drill bit, I drilled 9 holes where I marked in step one, which the instructions tell to be about 1" deep. Yes, the PVC is dirty! I need to clean that up!

Edited by damelon - 7/1/13 at 6:50am
post #1926 of 2308
Thread Starter 
5) After drilling the hole where the LED light will go to, I need to drill a hole for the pigtail to get fed up above the end beam. I didn't even think about measuring this before... I had a 12" long 1/4" drill bit, but of course it needed to be about 14" to get through the beams AND the PVC board width! DOH! So I picked up an 18" long bit from Lowes. This is one long drill bit!


6) After drilling all 9 holes, I threaded a pigtail through the hole and pulled it through.


7) I added some clear silicone caulk around the lip of the end cap and pushed it into the PVC.


8) Here is a pic of all of the lights in one section installed, with the pigtail wires hanging over the edge:


9) And Finally, with the wires tucked away, let there be light!


I did test them all once it started to get a bit dark. Those 9 LED lights provide quite a bit of light and are dimmable. I still have two sides of them to put up, plus a ceiling fan once the ceiling is completed. They don't do much at all during the day, but they don't need to. Once it was late dusk, I turned them on and was more than able to see everything under the deck. It isn't indoor level brightness, but it doesn't need to be. They are REALLY small lights, and can be installed pretty much anywhere. The kit came with a Timer, a transformer, and a remote controlled dimmer (additional cost for the dimmer). I was really happy with the end result. Now I just need to do some cleaning along those beams before the annual 4th of July Party!
post #1927 of 2308
those look very cool, i bet you where thinking about that pool the whole weekend smile.gif
post #1928 of 2308
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by snickers1 View Post

those look very cool, i bet you where thinking about that pool the whole weekend smile.gif

Absolutely! It was horrible out there.. both times when I pulled a drink out of the fridge, I swore it was the coldest, best-tasting drink I ever had. I didn't have much choice though, all of that work needed to be done before next monday and who knows how the weather will cooperate!
post #1929 of 2308
Do you have a link to this LED kit you bought?
post #1930 of 2308
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Do you have a link to this LED kit you bought?

For outdoor kits it was this. They also sell lots of other kinds of Low Voltage LED lighting. I had previous read that this company took a long time to ship, and other things like that on the internet, but mine were all shipped out immediately.
(Scroll down to where it says KIT)
http://www.de-kor.com/outdoor-recessedlights.html
I did not use the Timer that came with the kit. Only the transformer and then I got the remote-dimmer.
The indoor kit is much cheaper, and the differences are that it does not include the timer, has a less powerful transformer, and has standard wire nuts. I did not use any of the diffuser discs included either.

They also have indoor lights, etc. I ended up not using the Gel-Filled nuts because they didn't twist the wires well. Just standard small nuts that I used some silicone on the outside plus electrical tape.

In addition, I purcahsed an exterior housing box, where I installed an outlet in and have the parts located at. (Like the picture) But I didn't mount anything other than the outlet box inside yet.
http://www.de-kor.com/led-transformers-and-calculator.html#ezenclosure
post #1931 of 2308
Thread Starter 
I'm on the fence about ordering a Radiance Mini 3D / Chromapure setup. I can tell that after about 1.5 years, the color balance has changed a little on my projector, but I don't think anyone except me notices. The cost of that combo is like $2,000 though (Radiance + Chromapure / Auto-Cal / Colorometer). I know that my projector actually has a quality CMS, but I have no idea how to manually calibrate it. The benefits of the auto-calibration are that I can re-calibrate at any time pretty quickly. The Radiance also has a nice bonus of being able to manage CIH for all sources, so i can fix movies like Tron/TDK/TDKR so that they stay widescreen the whole movie. Still, it is quite a bit of money. If anyone has any thoughts or opinions I'd appreciate it.
post #1932 of 2308
Maybe wait and take a look at the other Lumagen products coming down the pipe that include the Darbee technologies. If Lumagen thinks they're good enough to license, then they are probably meaningful improvement. Here's the news release: http://www.lumagen.com/testindex.php?module=news and http://www.twice.com/articletype/news/lumagen-adds-darbee-tech-radience-processor/105245

The first product from the new generation: http://www.lumagen.com/testindex.php?module=radiance20XX_details

Maybe over-the-top for what you are looking for right now, but perhaps will trickle down to a significant update to the Radiance Mini-3D in the coming months.

Just some thoughts.

EDIT - Of course before making a $2k+ investment, you may also want to consider waiting for the HDMI 2.0 spec'd components to start releasing. With a new HDMI 2.0 device and the availability of firmware updates from Lumagen, I can imagine you'd get far more mileage out of your investment than jumping in full-fledged right now with 1.4a spec hardware.
Edited by TMcG - 7/1/13 at 12:11pm
post #1933 of 2308
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Maybe wait and take a look at the other Lumagen products coming down the pipe that include the Darbee technologies. If Lumagen thinks they're good enough to license, then they are probably meaningful improvement. Here's the news release: http://www.lumagen.com/testindex.php?module=news and http://www.twice.com/articletype/news/lumagen-adds-darbee-tech-radience-processor/105245

The first product from the new generation: http://www.lumagen.com/testindex.php?module=radiance20XX_details

Maybe over-the-top for what you are looking for right now, but perhaps will trickle down to a significant update to the Radiance Mini-3D in the coming months.

Just some thoughts.

EDIT - Of course before making a $2k+ investment, you may also want to consider waiting for the HDMI 2.0 spec'd components to start releasing. With a new HDMI 2.0 device and the availability of firmware updates from Lumagen, I can imagine you'd get far more mileage out of your investment than jumping in full-fledged right now with 1.4a spec hardware.

Well, for the first part, I've looked at the 20xx line of Lumagen products, and there aren't any features in them I'd need. The Mini3D + Darbee Darblet is only $1599 and has all of the capabilities that the 20xx models do that I need. The 4K upcaling isn't useful to me, and they don't support 4K input anyway.

You might be right about the 2nd part, but if I'm thinking about the HDMI 2.0 future components, then all of my gear would be in need of an upgrade (Pre-Amp, Projector, etc) - That would be a very costly upgrade, but I might get a lot more out of it, who knows.

I have considered that buying a mini-3d could end up having it be obsolete in a few years. That wasn't really my major concern though as far as purchasing it... I was more interested to know how difficult it might be to calibrate using Sony's CMS, since it is supposed to be pretty detailed. As far as it becoming obsolete, based on the current tech coming out like Dolby Atmos, or 4K, I see those products, at the earliest, being available and affordable 2 years from now. Even then being at the first year of a cutting edge tech is usually a waste of money. So lets say safely that it will be 3 years. When I built my first theater 6-7 years ago, 1080p physical media had just become available, and hd-dvd was still competing with blu ray. Since then, the only things that have really changed are the inclusion of 3D material and 7.1 discrete recordings. Sure tech has gotten better for things like projectors and blu ray players and streaming, but the core technologies haven't changed a whole lot. Based on how things are going, physical media seems to be on a steady decline and streaming the direction everything is going. There seem to be quite a few Atmos titles already out in theaters, and some theaters use 4K projection, but there still isn't a streaming service that offers standard HD audio. I think VUDU has the best one, being Dolby Digital Plus. I don't know how they're going to gain momentum on a new media format to support 4K media and re-sell existing titles all over again unless they somehow allow upgrades from blu ray at $5 ea or something. There is still talk that they might be able to squeeze 4K onto blu ray, but unless they use a new format with more space + maybe a new storage codec... well... they have a ways to go until they make all of those decisions official.
Edited by damelon - 7/1/13 at 1:05pm
post #1934 of 2308
That was kind-of my first point...that perhaps Lumagen would release the Mini-3D as an updated version that included the Darbee technology so you didn't have two separate devices that you must now work in concert with one another vs. video control stemming from a single device. My other point is that we are very, very close to seeing the new HDMI 2.0 standard released in new products. Maybe that would help extend the "legs" of this investment without it being obsolete, maybe not. But as we are mere months away, it might be worth it to see what comes from CEDIA in September before making that decision. You've lived without it for this long, what's a couple more months, right? wink.gif You have a good handle on it, I was just pitching my two cents because you were asking for opinions.
post #1935 of 2308
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

That was kind-of my first point...that perhaps Lumagen would release the Mini-3D as an updated version that included the Darbee technology so you didn't have two separate devices that you must now work in concert with one another vs. video control stemming from a single device. My other point is that we are very, very close to seeing the new HDMI 2.0 standard released in new products. Maybe that would help extend the "legs" of this investment without it being obsolete, maybe not. But as we are mere months away, it might be worth it to see what comes from CEDIA in September before making that decision. You've lived without it for this long, what's a couple more months, right? wink.gif You have a good handle on it, I was just pitching my two cents because you were asking for opinions.

Gotchya. I suppose I will wait until the fall and see.

BTW: Lumagen has stated they will not be making a "Mini" device with the Darbee integrated. That is what the 20xx are for.
Edited by damelon - 7/1/13 at 4:39pm
post #1936 of 2308
Thread Starter 
Update : Our deck guy came a day early and is at the house dropping the side trim and making some light trays for me. Unfortunately I wasn't able to take off work today but I can spy on their work with my security cameras! I'm taking some snap shot photos as they work haha. It's kind of cool to do video Q&A using the phone to talk with him about certain details.

First they removed the existing arch from the side of the deck


Replace arched piece with a 1' high square piece
On the way up!


And.. nailed!


Add the arch under it, and nail on the interior board for the light tray

Edited by damelon - 7/2/13 at 8:27am
post #1937 of 2308
Ha. Awesome. Makes you want to have security cameras all over the place. Then you could sit at work and virtually be at home. You could effectively "move" through your house too.

Sort of like "working from home" but in reverse.
post #1938 of 2308
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post

Ha. Awesome. Makes you want to have security cameras all over the place. Then you could sit at work and virtually be at home. You could effectively "move" through your house too.

Sort of like "working from home" but in reverse.

Very true. I spy on my puppies at random times during the day, but keep thinking of places I'd like to put more cameras. It just is a pain in the ass to mount them in most places. Fishing wires is nothing something I enjoy, and knowing that I'm done with that right now is a good feeling. Plus not only have I been able to watch their progress, but I also saw the landscaper show up with mulch so I can see if they are putting it in the right places.
post #1939 of 2308
Have you listed the equipment you are using for your cameras/DVR somewhere? I have been tossing around the idea of adding some for awhile now and seeing the images your getting is starting up my curiosity again.
post #1940 of 2308
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by vanice View Post

Have you listed the equipment you are using for your cameras/DVR somewhere? I have been tossing around the idea of adding some for awhile now and seeing the images your getting is starting up my curiosity again.

No I have not. I purchased all of my cameras from ebay. I initially purchased 3 kinds. 1 of which I re-sold since it was much bigger and because it didn't work with my software.

I purchase this kind:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/IP-Camera-1-3-MegaPixels-CMOS-HD-Network-Waterproof-IR-Mini-Network-Camera-3-6mm-/221137498486?pt=US_Security_Cameras&hash=item337cd27176
Which are 720P on normal settings. (They also have 2mp versions) They also have excellent night vision capabilities (I can see bugs flying by in complete darkness) and are relatively small. They are PoE and have web software for configuration
I like both of my camera models but this one is my favorite since it is good in every way.

and this kind (Though it looks like that seller is out of them at the moment, but a quick search using terms like 1080p or poe or onvif might find you some)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Megapixel-Network-IP-Security-Camera-HD-1080P-ONVIF-Dome-30FPS-H-264-Mini-Dome-/140947938372?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160
Which are 1080P and "Fisheye" dome cameras. Their nightvision is not so good, but they give a much larger area of coverage. So I used them in areas which always were in lit areas, like my front porch. The resolution and coverage is better, but had poor nightvision and less mounting options. The other camera is much easier to install and have work the way you would expect.

They are both made by "Dahua", and were very easy to setup. The other camera I purchased was by "Supervision" and it was horrible in every way.

I use iSpy (64 Bit) which is free. After I figured out how to make it work right, getting the other cameras installed was easy. It can be set to record always, on motion detection, or other types of "Alerts". It even can wire into speakers and microphones for cameras to talk to people remotely too.
Edited by damelon - 7/2/13 at 4:41pm
post #1941 of 2308
Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post


They are both made by "Dahua", and were very easy to setup. The other camera I purchased was by "Supervision" and it was horrible in every way.

Were the two you linked to similar to what you purchased? They make no mention of manufacturer, so I assumed it was an off brand. I've been looking to setup a system utilizing Dahua cameras, but was on the edge about dropping almost half a grand on each camera. Regardless, the action shots you posted look great. It looks like you should easily be able to identify people's faces
post #1942 of 2308
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by scl23enn4m3 View Post

Were the two you linked to similar to what you purchased? They make no mention of manufacturer, so I assumed it was an off brand. I've been looking to setup a system utilizing Dahua cameras, but was on the edge about dropping almost half a grand on each camera. Regardless, the action shots you posted look great. It looks like you should easily be able to identify people's faces

The two I linked were exactly what I purchased. You are correct that the brand was not mentioned anywhere, but that is the brand of the cameras. Even the web interface does not mention "Dahua" anywhere, but I think a lot of cheap Chinese electronics are like that. The only way I actually found out who made it (And made setting them up in iSpy easier) was because I used "Advanced IP Scanner" to determine their default IP addresses, and later changed them, and under the manufacturer it showed "ZHEJIANG DAHUA TECHNOLOGY".

The web interface had a lot of great features, and the Supervision one I tried had none. You can of course change all of the network settings, the overlay text, set up timestamp sync, color correction, motion/alerts, etc.

These were the cheapest quality cameras I could find anywhere that had all of the features below:
1) Weatherproof
2) HD Quality (720p+)
3) Web Interface
4) Power over Ethernet
5) Small
6) H.264 Streaming

I initially also looked at cameras that were PTZ, but the price got into 2-3x the price to add that. It's a great feature, but the cameras also get bigger with PTZ too. iSpy allowed me to automatically record MP4 video to my NAS when motion is detected. You can also set the threshold of how much motion. There is a 1080p 2mp version of the same "Bullet Cam" which has the really good nightvision, but again the prices are about double of the 720p model, which is plenty of resolution. The dome cameras I got have great resolution quality as long as you have a location conducive to their strengths, like an area with decent light. Otherwise I'd use the bullet cameras, or at least buy a dome camera with better nightvision. The front of my house has a lot of accent lighting at night, so there were some great places to mount one there.
Edited by damelon - 7/7/13 at 10:05am
post #1943 of 2308
Thread Starter 
Update : Deck modification is complete! I will try to look up some pictures I had "Before" and take the same angled shot for the "After". (I'll get some pictures once the sun comes out... if it ever happens) The weather did not cooperate though, and those guys were working in a complete downpour part of the time. I did wire 6 more LED lights (2 rows of 3) along the side of the deck they completed yesterday. I will likely finish up the work on Friday. All of the rest of the wiring is done! Hopefully next week the guys will come and put the under-deck ceiling in.
post #1944 of 2308
Thread Starter 
Update : I finished all of the remainder of the work outside before the deck ceiling company comes in. In the end, I used 22 LED lights around the perimeter of the deck. 3 between each post on the front and sides, and one in the center of each rear beam section. The transformer included in the "Outdoor Kit" was plenty powerful enough to light all of my lights without issue. They are a good low-level lighting situation, but they are not meant for high intensity lighting. It is actually the perfect amount of light for any evening outdoor activities and it turned out exactly how we wanted it to. Those in combination with the LED tape under the bar turned out excellent. I also had an opportunity to test my HDMI and CAT6 jacks I mounted for future projector and movie streaming, both of which worked just fine.

We expect the "Under Deck" ceiling install to be this week, hopefully tomorrow or tuesday. I still have to tie up the last 3 speaker cables to some banana plug keystone jacks in my office closet so that I can close out my outdoor media hub. I will post some final pics there, though there isn't much to look at since it is just some basic shelving and wall mounted plates.
post #1945 of 2308
Thread Starter 
Some Before and After shots of the deck modification:

Before:


After:


Before:


After: (On this side, some of the column trim was used on the inside only and we did not re-add it below the arch)
post #1946 of 2308
Thread Starter 
On the inside, now you can see that the beam is uniform along all sides. This will allow an easy installation of a slightly sloped ceiling to drain water along the entire inside of the deck
(You can notice the box for the HDMI/CAT6 in the top left corner, and one of my speakers in the top right corner)


And the other side: (You can notice a small lip on the top which is higher due to the fact we has to close the top off since there were no beams inside. This will all be hidden of course once the ceiling goes in)
Another few notes in this image : You can also see the exterior housing box where all of my lighting controls are located against the stairs just above the table top line, as well as an exterior switch box which will control the future ceiling fan. The top left corner also has another speaker.
post #1947 of 2308
That looks really good... Love the outdoor bar set up.
post #1948 of 2308
Looking good !!!

Are you going to do a ceiling here:

post #1949 of 2308
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NYGIANTSFAN23 View Post

That looks really good... Love the outdoor bar set up.

Thanks man, we are really enjoying it too. Though on the 4th, I had to grill for 8 hours for about 150-200 people, so that was an event!

On saturday morning, since it was near 100 degrees here, I decided I would spend the day cleaning up my storage room, which also involved digging out an old work desk I had in a corner and organizing my NAS/HTPC equipment. I even re-purposed an old unused CRT for emergency access, heh. I also installed a second overhead light to the left of the picture taken since it was dark in that back corner, plus upgraded the bulbs. Nothing special, but here is a quick pic. (I put it in front of my media / patch panels since it was an unused space, and now the power cables and such are organized better)

post #1950 of 2308
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

Looking good !!!

Are you going to do a ceiling here:


Yes, although only half of my deck really has a water problem. That section has a water-proof roof over the level above it, but during heavy rain which does not come straight down, it can blow into the screened room above, which sometimes leaks a little below. We are going to put a drainage for the entire ceiling underneath, which will also keep all of my wires dry, as well as make the ceiling look uniform. There will be a ceiling fan under the section pictured. (To keep the grill master cool!) It will be mounted right where the top center part of that picture is. It also has a light in it.
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