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The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project - Page 2

post #31 of 2306
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tmhouse View Post

Are you planning DD and GG, or put a layer of plywood on the studs before the first layer of drywall?

I plan on doing double drywall and GG.
post #32 of 2306
Thread Starter 
I have a couple of quick questions for all of you.

1) As you might be able to see from some of the "before" pics, My concrete walls have the typical basement "vapor barrier" insulation secured to them. As I am building a room-within a room, and my wall will have insulation in it, what should I do with this? Should I just cut it down, leave it, or replace it with something? It's quite "poofy", so if I leave it my wall will either be pushing against it or I will need to give up a few more inches to give space between it.

2) How much typical depth is needed for the riser. I'm trying to figure out exactly where my rear side speakers are going to go, and as they will go inside of the rear side columns, I want to know where everything will be so I can finish some details about my floorplan and get it posted.

I have also decided to put my door on the side wall after all, opening inward of course, and that my walls will be fabric treatments. So I need to account for that 2" covering all around. Not to mention want to figure out colors. I'm not sure I want to go the black and red route.

My columns will be 16" wide by 12" deep.

I've decided my stage will be 2x8s + double 3/4" ply.

Undetermined yet if my riser will be 2x8s also or 2x10s.
post #33 of 2306
Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

2) How much typical depth is needed for the riser. I'm trying to figure out exactly where my rear side speakers are going to go, and as they will go inside of the rear side columns, I want to know where everything will be so I can finish some details about my floorplan and get it posted.

The minimum riser depth needed for reclining HT seating is 6 1/2 feet. In your case this is a non issue because your room is around 23 long. Assuming you use a couple feet for the false wall and first row seating of around 11.5 to 12 ft from the screen that leaves 9 ft. I would take the riser all the way to the back wall. You will have about 2 1/2ft for the rear surround speakers to breathe.
post #34 of 2306
Thread Starter 
Cleaned out most of the space yesterday. Finished framing the bar area, added a door to the utility room (because it will no longer be accessible once I wall off the rest if I didn't), finished building the exterior side wall where the demolition took place, and did the door frame rough-in on the side. It's a little frustrating to keep posting progress, none of which actually yet includes construction of the movie room itself!

Also another note, Bpape has ordered my DC04 clips for all of my de-coupled walls.

Dog helped, and notice the familiar "foam-on-a-roll" making cameos in some of the pics.

New utility room door! (Re-used door from demolished wall)


Outside wall with demolished area framed out


Inside of the theater looking out to the outside. (Side door opening now cut out and framed)


Space from the front left corner (plus dog!) If you look closely you can see some pre-work I did to be able to put up the rear theater wall in the joists.


Entry way to the bar area. Straight ahead is the door opening to my theater equipment room.
post #35 of 2306
Thread Starter 
Today got most of the interior wall framing finished. I don't have the DC04 clips yet so I just have some drywall and a screw here and there holding up the walls. Clips to be installed later.

View looking at the front of the theater


Rear Left


Rear right (Still pretty unfinished on the back wall, as well as the incomplete equipment room behind it)


For those of you who want to see a door opening with 2 walls


And the front top left of the theater. The corner is still unfinished, as well as the frame-indentation I'll be doing around this pipe. Note that this indentation will be hidden inside of the soffit corner when it is installed later.
post #36 of 2306
Thread Starter 
HVAC Question:

I'm tapping into my 3rd zone hvac (It only cools one room) and using it in the theater. But the thermostat is in that room. So I'd like to make it so that I can remotely control that thermostat from below (the movie room is one room adjacent and directly below the other room). Can someone please recommend a product that will work from that distance (and hook up to a harmony remote) without re-doing the wiring to the existing thermostat.

Thanks
post #37 of 2306
You don't want GG on the studs.

Looking good so far. Do you have ventilation options figured out yet? Might there be an overall diagram that shows beam placement, proximity to stairwell, etc?
post #38 of 2306
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

You don't want GG on the studs.

Looking good so far. Do you have ventilation options figured out yet? Might there be an overall diagram that shows beam placement, proximity to stairwell, etc?

No GG on the studs, just between the drywall.

I haven't been able to make a good diagram yet.

As for ventilation, I was planning on using insulated flex duct, in a snake like pattern, going through my bar soffit to the back of the theater and running inside of that soffit too. Looking at your dead-vent example Ted, I have a few questions... for transitions (like through drywall) should it use PVC or a metal collar? Is it just connected to the PVC with hvac silver duct tape? Should it be only a 6" opening and then wider ducting inside of the ceiling area? or can it be like 8" at all lengths? Can the return and supply run inside of the same encased dead-vent or do they need their own areas?

BTW Ted your inbox quota is maxed so I cant send you more private messages.
post #39 of 2306
Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

HVAC Question:
I'm tapping into my 3rd zone HVAC (It only cools one room) and using it in the theater. But the thermostat is in that room.

A true zoned system has a thermostat in each zone and a controller that interprets the data and decides what zones to open. I suspect your HVAC guy will install that for you.

http://www.retrozone.com/?gclid=CJ2E...FYLd4Aodax_M8g
post #40 of 2306
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

A true zoned system has a thermostat in each zone and a controller that interprets the data and decides what zones to open. I suspect your HVAC guy will install that for you.

Yes our house has 3 zones and each has its own thermostat. But the thermostat is up in my sunroom, and I want to be able to turn it on or off from the movie room, so technically my movie room becomes part of the 3rd zone. I'm going to have some dampers in the unit to be able to turn off air flow to the sunroom. It's just more cost effective. I need to get off of this computer and back to work!
post #41 of 2306
How about a system for the sunroom and theater two zone system that allows you to control either thermostat from the other.

From SmartHhome "Designed to work with the Aprilaire® Programmable Thermostat (#3020A), the Aprilaire® 4-Zone Comfort Control System goes well beyond controlling heating and cooling and into the role of orchestrating the entire HVAC system to increase your comfort and convenience while saving you energy and money. The 4-Zone Comfort Control System works as the nerve center that provides a central wiring hub and information interchange for the system along with the Programmable Thermostat to work with single or multi-stage forced air heating/cooling equipment and control two, three, or four zones. To operate the system, just set each zone's thermostat to your desired comfort. Information is then shared among thermostats through the 4-Zone Comfort Control System to optimize performance and convenience. This means you can turn on/off, adjust or simply view any thermostat from any other thermostat ."

$200
post #42 of 2306
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

How about a system for the sunroom and theater two zone system that allows you to control either thermostat from the other.

From SmartHhome "Designed to work with the Aprilaire® Programmable Thermostat (#3020A), the Aprilaire® 4-Zone Comfort Control System goes well beyond controlling heating and cooling and into the role of orchestrating the entire HVAC system to increase your comfort and convenience while saving you energy and money. The 4-Zone Comfort Control System works as the nerve center that provides a central wiring hub and information interchange for the system along with the Programmable Thermostat to work with single or multi-stage forced air heating/cooling equipment and control two, three, or four zones. To operate the system, just set each zone's thermostat to your desired comfort. Information is then shared among thermostats through the 4-Zone Comfort Control System to optimize performance and convenience. This means you can turn on/off, adjust or simply view any thermostat from any other thermostat ."

$200

Perfect, thanks big. Got my drywall and insulation ordered, delivery inside (yay!) on friday.

Ordered my green glue, ceiling clips, and acoustical caulk from Ted's company and it should also be here by friday.

Then gotta deal with channel
post #43 of 2306
Mailbox emptied... sorry
post #44 of 2306
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

Mailbox emptied... sorry

No problem Ted! Hard to tell you when I can't send you a message!
post #45 of 2306
I emailed you a few articles on ventilation. Better to address this now.
post #46 of 2306
Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

I have a couple of quick questions for all of you.

1) As you might be able to see from some of the "before" pics, My concrete walls have the typical basement "vapor barrier" insulation secured to them. As I am building a room-within a room, and my wall will have insulation in it, what should I do with this? Should I just cut it down, leave it, or replace it with something? It's quite "poofy", so if I leave it my wall will either be pushing against it or I will need to give up a few more inches to give space between it.

This is my biggest fear related to basement work. I hope you got some good advice on what to do with the outer insulation/vapor barrier and have been able to prevent any nasty future surprises. Spray foam, hard styrofoam board, pink fiberglass and plastic sheets... there are just too many ways people take on this issue and I don't know which is right. Moisture and mold keep me awake at night when I've been thinking about finishing our basement before bed.
post #47 of 2306
Quote:
Originally Posted by OJ Bartley View Post

Moisture and mold keep me awake at night when I've been thinking about finishing our basement

Follow the recommendations of your local building code office as the preferred solution does vary based on climate. For your area you should probably follow Holmes on Homes recommendations which is rigid foam with all seams taped. Then frame and add fiberglass insulation.
post #48 of 2306
Thread Starter 
Based on both building codes, and discussions with BIG and bpape, I opted to keep the vapor barrier lining. It is insulation anyway, and according to bpape if it is squishy insulation behind plastic you can have the walls pushing against it a bit and still have some of the air gap allowed. Just make sure to use unfaced R-13 or whatever in your wall that is against it, because if you had a double-barrier there would be no way for moisture to get out.
post #49 of 2306
Thread Starter 
Heres some of the final pics of how I blocked off that drain pipe. It might be difficult to see from these angles, but the diagonal blocks do not touch the pipe. Had to keep it "decoupled". And yes, there is a block there nailed to the stud, it's only temporary, as are the drywall spacer pieces, until I get the DC04 clips in.





And here is a pic of the finished framing of the back right corner, where the equipment rack will be. You can see the equipment room's supply and return flexduct in the background. I put a little more spacing in between the studs in the back of that room so that I could fit the ducting between the walls and put the supply near the floor in that room.
post #50 of 2306
Thread Starter 
I'd like to give a quick thank you to Ted White and his company, soundproofingcompany.com for their great customer service, lightning fast turnaround and quick delivery time. The guy I spoke with on the phone, John Hile, was able to put my order together quickly at a great price, and even called me back immediately when we got disconnected... which is something I wish every company did but none do. Thank you!

I'd also like to quickly thank BIGmouthinDC for all of his advice so far. I've been able to plan this out so much better and get things done quickly thanks to all of his quick responses. The moment I tried to schedule him in for my next stage of construction he was already out on his own buying parts we will need and checking what's in stock at his local places.
post #51 of 2306
Are you using pressure treated lumber for your bottom plate?
post #52 of 2306
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post

Are you using pressure treated lumber for your bottom plate?

No. I put it on top of a layer of "foam on a roll" for the inner walls. Not exactly code (use pressure treated lumber or some form of impervious moisture barrier) but it's what I did. (Hides behind a tree)
post #53 of 2306
Thread Starter 
Delivery! Lots of drywall and insulation!

post #54 of 2306
Thread Starter 
Worked together with BIG today for most of the day. Quick summary of our work... we took out all of the temporary drywall spacers and junk wood blocks holding up the walls and installed the DC04 clips. The walls are up tight! BIG handled that task while I was putting up and cutting insulation for the walls. (If I ever do this again I'm just going to use blown-in cellulose insulation or have someone put it in. That fiberglass gets everywhere!) Started on getting some of the ceiling insulation in place before we can put on the channel there. While I did that BIG raised the opening for my equipment rack a few inches and then installed conduit for the projector cabling.

Certain parts of the wall still need insulation, etc. The HVAC hoses will be not sticking through the wall like that once the drywall is up. We have collars we will connect to them at the point of entry, and seal them. We are going to enclose the outside portion in a drywalled and insulated soffit over the bar behind the theater, and inside the lines will run inside of MDF-casings inside of the fabric theater soffit.

Pics:

Insulation came in bundles, and it was pre-cut to about 8 foot lengths, so pieces were mostly short as you can see below:


But after a cutting up some thin pieces I filled them in

post #55 of 2306
Thread Starter 
Back left corner of the room with insulation gaps:



And after they were filled in:



Front left corner



And then after we wrapped that drain pipe in insulation

post #56 of 2306
Thread Starter 
Scary HVAC hoses! Look like pink worms! (Yes I know they are sideways!)





Action shot! BIG Measuring (twice) before adjusting the rack opening

post #57 of 2306
Thread Starter 
BIG securing the conduit!



And some of his finished work going to the equipment room

post #58 of 2306
Thread Starter 
Tomorrow we plan to do the whisper-clips and the hat channel, along with completing the ceiling insulation and marking all of the joist/channel locations so that we can find them once the drywall is up. Maybe we'll have time to hang some of the ceiling drywall or the plywood backer for the projector, but we'll see.
post #59 of 2306
Well, BIG's working on another build. Looks like this one will be done in another week or so, now

It's looking great guys! Keep up the good work, and keep the updates coming.
BTW, don't forget to feed BIG. He claims to like healthy food, but I think pizza and cake works too!
post #60 of 2306
All in all, the first day of our collaboration went well. Very little blood was let, the dog didn't eat anything off the floor, and we had Mexican with a home made strawberry smoothie.

This is going to be a great theater.
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