Official Sharp 2011 LC-70LE735U Owners Thread - Page 51

My only experience with 3D (and messages) is with Blu-Ray's. Perhaps it's different with broadcast 3D. Do you never get messages with 3D Blu-Ray either?

Not yet. I have not upgraded to a 3D player yet. Wouldn't that be a moot point. Don't you get separate discs in a combo pack anyway? If you put the 3D disc in you want it to recognize the disc No? Maybe I'm just not getting what the other poster is complaining about.

Edit: So I reread his post and I guess he would not like to be nagged about the 3D content. I wonder why I do not get any messages off of broadcast TV?

For 3D Blu-Ray's you always get a message that the TV is now in 3D mode and to turn on your glasses ... - then if it switches momentarily to a non-3D menu (fortunately doesn't happen often) there's a message that it has switched to 2D mode and turn off the glasses, then back again... and there's no way I know of to turn those messages off.

Thank you moovtune....you are correct. There is no way to turn off the 3D message. I have no idea what everyone else is talking about.

Quick question for owners...

How is your screen uniformity, in general? I've had a 735u for a couple weeks now, and it is wonderful outside of some very bad flash lighting/ screen uniformity issues. On a completely black screen (in a dark room, it isn't noticeable in a bright environment), the screen uniformity is pretty bad. It is especially noticeable in the bottom right corner. A huge bright spot runs at least 12 inches from the bottom right corner to the middle of the screen. There are bright spots throughout the rest of the screen as well -- they just are not as noticeable as that one. I think I could live with it if not for that one spot.

This is extremely annoying when watching movies with black bars on the bottom, or in dark scenes.

Before I go through the trouble of sending the one I have back, and ordering a new one, I just want to get a feel for how common this problem is on these panels, and if it's likely that I'll have better luck with a new panel.

I'd prefer to stick with the 735u since it is backlit, but I suppose the edge lit 847 could also be an option (although it seems like flash lighting in the corners would be an even larger issue on edge lit sets).

Thanks!

I had the same issue with the clouding at bottom right corner towards center of screen. It was very noticeable in a dark room. I had a 45 day return window with BB, so i waited about a month to see what would happen. Most of it faded after 30 days, so i decided to keep the tv. Not sure if yours will get better. I have had the tv for 2 1/2 months now and am satisfied. There is some DSE, but not that bad. Minor clouding can be seen on a blank screen, but not during actual viewing. I would say if the bright spot bothers you now, it will bother you even more after the return window closes, because you will wish you did. I forgot to ask, what do you have backlight set at? If you are watching in a dark room, don't have it set any higher than zero. That will reduce the clouding considerably, and will actually make the blacks look a little better. When I watch a movie in a dark room, I have it set to zero, and sometimes as low
as -4.

I'm still in a haunt for this TV, buying online still not an option for me, as far as local stores they are always out of stock, frys been out of stock for over a month and the price was $2499 as soon as they got it in stock they jacked up the price to $4299 unbelievable !! bestbuy never attemted to lower the price from $3499, I keep waiting for a while and see otherwise I will just get it from the internet for as low as $2700 and it will be a returned one with an issue for sure.

I was in Fry's the other day and saw the TV was for only $2700, I didn't even think to ask if they had it in stock. I know my local Best Buy is trying to sell a used display one for $3000. I bought mine on Amazon and it went through Walt's Tv from AZ and got it shipped with tax for $2999.00. I see that supposedly Paul's TV store is selling it for $2700.00 if you live in the Los Angeles area...dont know if that helps.

Yeah walt's charge state tax which is about $300, If I would have to buy it online I make sure I don't buy it from CA seller, That way I can save 300 bucks that goes towards 3D glasses.

I live in California and ordered my Tv through Amazon. Amazon wanted me to buy it from Pauls Tv, as they had it for five dollars cheaper, but since they were in California they wanted to add $300 for taxes. I then choose Walt's and I did not have to pay any tax. I am not sure how you are going to get around the state tax thing unless you buy online or go to Nevada. In fact, starting in September, Amazon will be charging all California residents state tax. Good luck on your search though...it is a great TV.

Only Paul's has it as of now, and they charge taxes.

Ok, I can't believe that I FINALLY finished reading all 51 pages of this thread!

I got mine from HHGregg as a floor model. None of the local stores in my DC/MD/VA area had it in stock anymore. I went through 2 online retailers that were listing the cheapest prices from Google search online only to call and them tell me they are not in stock. I actually had to cancel two online orders because of this even though their site showed it as in stock. ECTV's price on Google showed up as like $2699 or something like that but when I called they said it was $3499 but could knock off $300. They were the only online retailer that had it in stock and said they didn't know why Google was showing that price.

This guy at a local store where my brother in law had bought several TV's from for his company and personal use and probably spent well over $10k said the best he could do was $3300 (which was with a "10% discount" which really was only the removal of their 3 year extended warranty that cost $350)out the door but it would inlcude 2 glasses. Well for the heck of it we went to one of their other stores and that salesman gave us (being strangers) the exact same deal and wasn't willing to come down at all or at least throw in another pair of glasses. So since I saw that the first guy wasn't really giving us any real "hookup" we decided to pass and continue looking.

So, we left that place and stopped by HHGregg literally 10 minutes before closing and walked out with the floor model and a 3 year warranty that covers EVERYTHING. And I couldn't be happier with the purchase. Still amazed at how crystal clear this thing is for it's size.

I have only come across two issues that I hadn't seen anybody posted about. The first thing is that sometimes when I play a movie on the PS3 and either stop it or after it finishes and goes back to the PS3's XMB menu, there will be some streaming like effect on the screen when moving between the menu icons on the screen, like the fonts stream/blur for a second as you move across the icons. At first I tried shutting down the PS3 and turning it back on and the issue would fix it self.

I was running into issues with my Onkyo TX-SR606 which I later found out has as known HDMI switching issue and I though that was the problem but after hooking it up directly to the TV it did it again last night. This time though I just switched the input momentarily to my cable then back to the PS3 and the issue was gone. I'm thinking it might be the 25' HDMI cable I bought from this local store which is all they had. I really only need their 12' one which was out of stock though. Has anyone else had this problem?

The next issue might also be related to the first but I sometimes notice a little lag when I was watching a basketball game but when switching the channel to another channel then back to the game it seems to fix itself. I'm wondering if it could also be with my FIOS as I was watching a movie on Showtime HD last night and noticed some old "Movie theater" type effects like really fast black or white artifacts flashing on the screen. Put it to another movie and no artifacts. So could it be just my FIOS signal or possible HDMI cable?

Will try some more troubleshooting tonight. I also do have slight clouding in the bottom right hand corner but it's not that bad as well as DSE which is slightly noticible but not a big deal to me. My brother in laws new Sony I think it is had really bad clouding when I first saw it in his home on a black screen which I thought didn't look normal and mine is no where near that bad. Overall though the PQ is amazing and clear to me and i'm very happy. I had been researching this for a few months before we finally pulled the trigger. It is funny though how at first my eyes took a while to get use to the huge size of the tv and for a minute I though it was too big but now it seems like it's smaller and can see the 80" as an upgrade later so that I can put the 70" in our bedroom.

I've had a similar issue with mine that comes randomly - a rippling effect on the lower half of the screen as the image changes from shot to shot. Once it starts, it happens on all inputs, even the built-in tuner (with rabbit ears). The only way to stop it is to switch momentarily to the "Home Network" input - with the icons for selecting Video, Music or Photo, then switch back to my selected input and the wavy rippling effect goes away. At first I thought it had to do with my Prepro and switching inputs but since it does it on the tuner as well (no prepro in line) I knew it had to be the set. I have a feeling it has something to do with switching between 1080p/24 and 480i/30 but haven't for sure pinned it down to that yet. Anyone else have a similar issue?

Yes! Although for me it seems to only happen after playing a blueray so that could be as it's happening when it switches from 1080p to whatever resolution the native PS3 XMB is at which I think is 1080i or 720p? So is this a software issue?

Wondering if I should report to Sharp.

Yeah, it seems like this TV is disappearing from shelves as Sharp is not making it anymore, and they still havn't come up with new full array LED model yet.

Apologies if someone already replied on this, I just couldn't find it on the forum.

Appears as though the 845U is ready to hit the BB's, etc. I can't seem to locate a decent guide on how the back lighting or the resolution is better, or worse for that matter vs. our 735U's. From my recollection our 735Us are 8M:1 ration and the new 845U is coming in at 10M:1, so to me that would indicate a bit better (25% I guess), but more over, really questioning the forums thoughts on the back lighting being better or worse when comparing our 735U's to the new 845U's.

Thanks in advance,
~K

the 845/847 same thing. is edge lit. I believe Bb and HH gregg has them on their website where you can find the specs your looking for

I've had it happen while playing a Blu-Ray, when switching from the movie itself to some of the extras which are often 480i. Also after playing a Blu-Ray (at 24p) and changing to Direct TV - which could be 1080i or 720p at 30fps. It is something in the software I would guess, but whether it's common enough for Sharp to address is the question. It's annoying, but so far I can get it to stop with the method mentioned previously so I haven't raised the issue with Sharp.

What is the consensus about snatching one of these 2011 full-array models up before they are gone, vs. buying a 2012 model? I was about to pull the trigger on a LC-7-LE732U from BB on a steeply discounted closeout sale, but they were already out of them when I got to the store. Then I decided to go with a low-cost LC-70632U, but they all evaporated too. Switched gears back to the LC-70LE735U but the last one of those just disappeared from Amazon today (ala Paul's TV). Now I am re-considering the 732U which is still available on Amazon, but it is priced the same as the new 745U.

Anyone have any strong opinions about whether it is worthwhile to get last year's full-array version, or just go with the newer edge-lit version and hope that annoyances like clouding, DSE, and 5.1 passthrough are better with the new models?

Well, I took the plunge and purchased the LC-70LE735U today, and it should be here in a week. This will be a replacement for a 14 year old Mitsubishi rear projection TV with only S-Video connections, so I am thinking the difference is going to be tremendous (although the ol' Mits still looks pretty good, tuned in with Video Essentials).

I ordered from Walt's TV via Amazon - anyone have any experience with Walt's, either good or bad? Am wondering how they will be if an exchange is needed, and whether to upgrade to the White Glove service or not - otherwise I think they just drop it off curbside. I plan on wall mounting myself, and have ordered all the various stuff to do so.

Another question - anyone have experience with Sharp's extended service plans? I ordered and then cancelled the 5-year plan today - figured I'd better wait until I know I'm keeping the TV before dropping money on a warranty.

I also ordered the Disney WOW disk to self-calibrate, but figure I may eventually have it done professionally - anyone know of a good ISF calibrator in the Philly/South Jersey area? In the meantime I figure I'll poke around here and see what settings others are using. CNET posted some for the 732U that may apply to the 735U as well. Seems like a million things to do to get this all right - should be a fun project though!

Oh, one more thing - although I have historically been a Monster cable user, I opted for the premium line of MediaBridge cables this time - way cheaper, and qualified for Amazon Prime. I had also been looking at the cables from Monoprice for the same general cost, but opted for MediaBridge since I was already buying everything else through Amazon Prime. Can anyone vouch for the quality of the MediaBridge cables vs' Monoprice? The premium Monoprice HDMI cable is 24 gauge vs. 28 gauge for the MediaBridge HDMI - not sure how much difference that would make. The other cables I purchased were a component video cable and a Toslink optical cable - all 10' in length. After dropping this much cash for the TV and Blu-ray player (Oppo), I hate to skimp out on cables - but all the chatter here seems to be that expensive cables are a waste of money for digital signals. Thoughts?

You don't realy need $100 monster cable for digital signal, back in the days where the signal was analog the better the cable the better the signal, with digital it's all 0 and 1 it's all off it or none of it, yet monster still ripping off poeple who ignore this fact, make sure the cable is sturdy enough and won't brake on you; copper or gold you're still gonna get your 0 and 1 signal delivered to your monitor.

I still have to wait till the 23rd to get the glasses so I can't comment on anything else about the set till it gets calibrated too. I have 45 days to upgrade or return.I wonder who will carry the X5FD and what it will cost??? Any info on it as far as what panels it will use? 30 days to get it calibrated which is disapointing but thats what you get from BB but I was only charged the price difference.

I don't understant why are you guys spending hunderds of dollare for a so called "proffessional calibration". Its just a set of values that you can get from the internet or AV magazine and enter them yourself or get a calibration blu-ray disc and follow the instructions on the screen, I fill so stupid if I call somebody to come to my house and enter a bunch of numbers for me when a 15 yrs old kid can do it.

So I guess you've entirely missed the concept of manufacturing variation? Not all sets are 100% equal, else they'd all come perfectly calibrated at the factory. Magazine numbers are just to get you into the right ballpark, assuming your TVs actual variance from the set tested by said magazine is close enough to benefit over the stock settings.

In that vast majority of cases, however, the final numbers input by a pro will NOT match the generic numbers offered in a magazine or review.

They'll probably be fine. With only 10' cables, you have to have a pretty badly screwed up cable to mess things up. Longer can get trickier, but I wouldn't sweat the differences for short cable (10' and under).

Spoken like someone who has never seen the before and after of a professionally calibrated set. At first, I did my own calibration with the WOW disk, and based on the before settings from the pro calibration I did a half way decent job, but the professional calibration got it almost perfect.

Now, if I wanted to spend the money and buy the same kind of calibrating equipment, then I bet I could get pretty close to the same result, but then there is a learning curve and you'd sink the same money and more time into the process and maybe get a worse result.

Money well spent in my mind.

The "proffessional calibration" values for this specific model are available on this website and online, just enter them, there is no special connector for this TV that a proffessional can access and you don't.

It turns out that LC-70LE735U hasn't been discontinued yet, and they will have some other full array units coming out this summer, here is a copy & past e-mail I got from Sharp Tech Support:
"Dear Xxxxxx,
We are happy to help. This model has not yet been discontinued. We do have a full array 70" 3D unit coming out this year, and it is our LC70LE945U. It is slated for Summer release. Here are some of the specifications of the unit.
240Hz / Quattron 4-color / 3D / Quad Pixel Plus 2 / Full Array Backlit / Local Dimming panels. Built in Wifi and Full Smart Central UI, Web browser and global apps search."
The WiFi is kind of cool, but not necessary.

I can guarantee you that using the settings of what others have posted will not get you a properly calibrated tv. Closer than factory settings? Yes. I have tried many a different setting, but one or more of the colors would be off. Green is the obvious color that is usually too bright or neon like. Just plugging values from another calibration does not get you the same result. I look at my calibrated values compared with others, and mine are different, just like all the others. If it was so easy, there would only need to be one common calibration that all could use. Why are there dozens, if not more, different movie calibration settings out there? Should only be one based on your argument.