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Official Sharp 2011 LC-70LE735U Owners Thread - Page 55

post #1621 of 1640
10/12/12 at 12:56pm
I just wanted to post to those fortunate 735 owners to read this and get the best picture quality from their 735.
The 735 calibration settings are here:
http://www.flatpanelshd.com/review.php?subaction=showfull&id=1330691169

Now getting the OPC to track the ambient light correctly was an ordeal. But I've done the experimenting and now its going to cost you $2 from Wallchart. Discard the clear cover.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Meridian-Manual-LED-Night-Light/16879988
My OPC is set from -10 to +13.
The 0.4 watt LED is placed about 6" in front of the 735 light sensor. Experiment and move it away from the TV to make the picture dimmer. Season to taste!

Now the third step is to replace your HDMI cables with the $7 BlueRigger fully shielded connector type from Amazon. This should improve your picture and sound quality as the shielding is way better than the poorly terminated cables sold before:
http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-High-speed-cable-Ethernet/dp/B003XM5DT0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1350071896&sr=8-2&keywords=bluerigger

Edited by HiFiFun - 10/12/12 at 1:06pm
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post #1622 of 1640
10/14/12 at 6:46pm
What is best method to check for clouding? On dark scenes at night the picture seems to wash out and it seems to be getting worse. Thanks
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post #1623 of 1640
10/14/12 at 7:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by firemanast View Post

What is best method to check for clouding? On dark scenes at night the picture seems to wash out and it seems to be getting worse. Thanks

On a screen that's almost all black (total black will cause the backlight to dim so you need a bit of something there. Movie titles aren't bad), take a 2-4 second exposure with a camera. Many point and shoots will do this and certainly it's easy if you have a DSLR. The resulting picture will be blue and show any variations in the backlight.
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post #1624 of 1640
11/5/12 at 11:15pm
Can anyone with experience comment on how the Sharp 70" (non elite) compares with the old Kuro 60" plasma ?

I've always been a plasma man but I recently got a Sony 55" edge lit LED for my bedroom and its a wonderful panel, which has led me to consider Sharp 70" to replace my 60" Kuro. I want a bigger panel. In Australia the 70" Sharp has no 3D (don't care) and full array backlighting.

Would I get it home and regret it or does the Sharp hold up pretty well against the 60" Pios ?

I use it as my main HT panel for Netflix, BR, Xbox.

1000
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post #1625 of 1640
11/6/12 at 2:16am
I love my 70" edge-lit Quattron. No clouding or 'flashlight' effects that others have noted. Mine is 3D, but I seldom use that feature.
Be sure to have it calibrated or use a do-it-yourself disc to eliminate the blue-push and red-clipping...
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post #1626 of 1640
11/10/12 at 6:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000 View Post

Can anyone with experience comment on how the Sharp 70" (non elite) compares with the old Kuro 60" plasma ?
I've always been a plasma man but I recently got a Sony 55" edge lit LED for my bedroom and its a wonderful panel, which has led me to consider Sharp 70" to replace my 60" Kuro. I want a bigger panel. In Australia the 70" Sharp has no 3D (don't care) and full array backlighting.
Would I get it home and regret it or does the Sharp hold up pretty well against the 60" Pios ?
I use it as my main HT panel for Netflix, BR, Xbox.
1000

I have the Pioneer 5020 KURO and this Sharp. The Sharp is a nice tv because of it's size, but will not come close to the black levels of the KURO. However, the whites are brighter than the Kuro, but still suffers the DSE when panning over whites like the KURO. If I had the 60 inch KURO, I probably would not have purchased the 70 inch Sharp. Again, the Sharp is a good TV, but a KURO it is not.
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post #1627 of 1640
12/17/12 at 9:14pm
Can someone help me understand how to the set HDMI2 (or another Input) to PC? The Manual is not the same as the actual interface. I have an HTPC on HDMI 2 and the HD quality as well as sports is not up to par. I am trying to figure out what the problem is =(



Thanks
Felix
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post #1628 of 1640
12/19/12 at 7:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teknologikal View Post

Can someone help me understand how to the set HDMI2 (or another Input) to PC? The Manual is not the same as the actual interface. I have an HTPC on HDMI 2 and the HD quality as well as sports is not up to par. I am trying to figure out what the problem is =(
Thanks
Felix

The pc input is the VGA connection on the back panel of your set.
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post #1629 of 1640
1/24/13 at 9:13am
I had my 735 calibrated a few months ago and the picture looked great. It was calibrated in Movie mode because we were only able to do the 10-point color temp setting in that mode. For the past couple of weeks, I have noticed that the picture mode would randomly change to a different setting (changed to User or Standard mode, for example). Has anyone had this happen to them and if so, what is the solution for having it stay in the same mode alll the time?
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post #1630 of 1640
1/26/13 at 8:58am
Hi all, new member here. I know this model has been discontinued and replaced by an edge lit model, however after much research and viewing, I determined that the full array 70" 735u fit my use cases best especially since I tend to watch TV with the lights on in a large living room. The room also has some large windows so ambient light is difficult to control. I was able to get this set new in the box from HHGregg for only 2,299. I just got the set and so far am exceptionally pleased. My set does not have any clouding issues that I can see so far. I do not notice the darkened corners that others have experienced either. I am looking very carefully for it and am the critical detail oriented sort. However I haven't run a setup disk yet, I still have to callibrate it, and I haven't viewed it at night yet. I was wondering are folks interested in a forum dedicated to callibration settings only or if one exists? Standard mode is definitely over saturated, although skin tones aren't horrible even in this blown out mode. I appreciate the flatpanelsHD setting provided above. I believe he turned off the yellow pixel control. Does anyone have callibration settings that includes the yellow pixel?
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post #1631 of 1640
2/2/13 at 3:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wxman View Post

I wonder if this will work. From another Sharp Aquos tv


1. Unplug your set

2. While holding vol down and input buttons on your set, plug unit back in. The set should turn on and you will see a blue box with a K in it on the left hand side of your screen

3. Push Vol down and Channel down buttons at the same time on the set. You should now be in service menu.

4. With the remote control, push the arrow down button 1 time.

5. Look for factory init.

6. Arrow right to turn it on.

7. Press enter, or ok on the remote. You should see some //////. Wait a minute and you should should get a solid green screen that says Factory Init Success.

8. Unplug TV. Wait 30 sec's

9. Plug back in and power up. You should be at first time set up.


old reply but thanks,
was looking how to get into service menu.
worked on my 735
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post #1632 of 1640
2/3/13 at 5:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by wxman View Post

I have the Pioneer 5020 KURO and this Sharp. The Sharp is a nice tv because of it's size, but will not come close to the black levels of the KURO. However, the whites are brighter than the Kuro, but still suffers the DSE when panning over whites like the KURO. If I had the 60 inch KURO, I probably would not have purchased the 70 inch Sharp. Again, the Sharp is a good TV, but a KURO it is not.

If you calibrate the Sharp, the black level can be improved quite a bit -- no LCD is going to compete in that arena with plasma, though, except with backlight dimming.
I created a setting that keeps the great brightness of the LCD but preserves good black level and I've quit tinkering with it long since (I'm fussy).
This is what I hit upon, using the OPC to add brightness and contrast in daylight conditions while preserving the optimum setting in the dark:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1444684/sharp-lc-70le845u-calibration-including-3d
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post #1633 of 1640
3/27/13 at 1:36pm
I know this is a very old thread, but thought I would post with my question. I have a chance to get a refurb on this set and what appears to be a decent price. Is it worth the money in the $1800 range for this set compared to new stuff out there. I honestly don't need the 3d, but I can get the 734 or 735 model for the same price.

I currently have a Samsung DLP 61" model, forget the model# off hand to be honest. I am starting to get "Dead pixels" on it, which from my research means I am starting to have mirror failures. I am being proactive now and doing some research on new sets.

It is just my wife and I, no cable, no sat, hardly no DVD watching, but do have a blu-ray player. We have OTA HD and 2 TIVO HD boxes that we use, so that will be what we watch on this mostly.

I'd appreciate any feedback.


Thanks,
phil
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post #1634 of 1640
3/28/13 at 10:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by philwojo View Post

I know this is a very old thread, but thought I would post with my question. I have a chance to get a refurb on this set and what appears to be a decent price. Is it worth the money in the $1800 range for this set compared to new stuff out there. I honestly don't need the 3d, but I can get the 734 or 735 model for the same price.

I currently have a Samsung DLP 61" model, forget the model# off hand to be honest. I am starting to get "Dead pixels" on it, which from my research means I am starting to have mirror failures. I am being proactive now and doing some research on new sets.

It is just my wife and I, no cable, no sat, hardly no DVD watching, but do have a blu-ray player. We have OTA HD and 2 TIVO HD boxes that we use, so that will be what we watch on this mostly.

I'd appreciate any feedback.


Thanks,
phil

Hi Phil:

What is the warranty on the refurb? And if it does not work out for you, can you return it? For $1800 or less, you can get a 70 inch Vizio, new. That is a very good price, but I would like to live with the set (if I was you) for a couple of weeks to make sure you are happy.
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post #1635 of 1640
3/28/13 at 10:57am
30 day warranty, you can return it, but there is a $150 restocking fee if I am remembering correctly off the top of my head.

I know it isn't a bad price, but I also know there is newer stuff out there, that is why I am torn.
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post #1636 of 1640
3/28/13 at 11:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by philwojo View Post

30 day warranty, you can return it, but there is a $150 restocking fee if I am remembering correctly off the top of my head.

I know it isn't a bad price, but I also know there is newer stuff out there, that is why I am torn.

Ouch! Only a 30 day warranty? I'd spring for a new one, and save the hassle. Try to buy locally, if you can. Good luck!
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post #1637 of 1640
5/11/13 at 9:10pm
Hello,

I'm looking for opinions from those that have direct experience with this model... the green blob has eaten my SXRD beyond adjustment now and it's time to move on. I see that this set has backlit LED technology and good reviews, albeit being a 2-gen older model. Am wondering how ya'll would stack it up against the '12 or '13 crop of panels... 65+", maybe LCD, maybe plazma (I get the differences and have not settled on one vs. other just yet). Seems like these can be had for ~$2k and the going range for newer large panels is in the $1,600-$2,800 range.

Thanks for your thoughts!

Cheers
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post #1638 of 1640
5/12/13 at 6:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by moovtune View Post

I've had a similar issue with mine that comes randomly - a rippling effect on the lower half of the screen as the image changes from shot to shot. Once it starts, it happens on all inputs, even the built-in tuner (with rabbit ears). The only way to stop it is to switch momentarily to the "Home Network" input - with the icons for selecting Video, Music or Photo, then switch back to my selected input and the wavy rippling effect goes away. At first I thought it had to do with my Prepro and switching inputs but since it does it on the tuner as well (no prepro in line) I knew it had to be the set. I have a feeling it has something to do with switching between 1080p/24 and 480i/30 but haven't for sure pinned it down to that yet. Anyone else have a similar issue?

OMG, my TV was experiencing exactly what you described last night for the first time since I got it on Jan 30th, 2012! The rippling effect was limited to the lower 1/2 or 1/3, triggered by movements or screen changes, and it affected ALL inputs including OTA antenna input and onscreen menu! How unsettling! I changed the input to "PC IN" then back and everything returned back to normal. I watched more Hulu and problem arose AGAIN.

I was, for the 2nd time ever, watching Hulu+ via an app on my Samsung home theater in a box (also a Bluray). This Hulu+ thingy switched from resolutions to resolutions multiple times to accommodate its various ads and main episodes, etc. and I highly suspected that caused the problem. For example, clearly I was watching Hulu+ episodes in SD (which is by default), but my Samsung HTiB would upconvert that to 1080p. Even if I manually switched via Hulu+ to HD, my TV still said that the input signal is 1080p, so I know that Samsung is playing w/ the signal here.

My TV is not doomed, right? Shall I stop using Hulu+ altogether? Damn, I was just starting to love it... And this never happened with Vudu HDX movies. Is this what they called handshaking problem? More info please to soothe my mind... Thanks.

Otherwise, I LOVE LOVE LOVE this TV. And have dumped Comcast Cable TV once and for all due to its unwatchable compression issues...
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post #1639 of 1640
5/17/13 at 9:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Areometer View Post

OMG, my TV was experiencing exactly what you described last night for the first time since I got it on Jan 30th, 2012! The rippling effect was limited to the lower 1/2 or 1/3, triggered by movements or screen changes, and it affected ALL inputs including OTA antenna input and onscreen menu! How unsettling! I changed the input to "PC IN" then back and everything returned back to normal. I watched more Hulu and problem arose AGAIN.

I was, for the 2nd time ever, watching Hulu+ via an app on my Samsung home theater in a box (also a Bluray). This Hulu+ thingy switched from resolutions to resolutions multiple times to accommodate its various ads and main episodes, etc. and I highly suspected that caused the problem. For example, clearly I was watching Hulu+ episodes in SD (which is by default), but my Samsung HTiB would upconvert that to 1080p. Even if I manually switched via Hulu+ to HD, my TV still said that the input signal is 1080p, so I know that Samsung is playing w/ the signal here.

My TV is not doomed, right? Shall I stop using Hulu+ altogether? Damn, I was just starting to love it... And this never happened with Vudu HDX movies. Is this what they called handshaking problem? More info please to soothe my mind... Thanks.

Otherwise, I LOVE LOVE LOVE this TV. And have dumped Comcast Cable TV once and for all due to its unwatchable compression issues...

I had the same issue in December of this past year literally 2 weeks before my 1 year factory warranty was ending. They sent a guy out and they replaced the Main Board. The problem did occur 1 time recenty but hasnt happened again.

A note of advice. I got this tv new and was offered warranty extention for $180 for 3 more years. I figure I would wait until my one year was almost up to make a decision. Bad idea. It was an introductory offer only and I ended up paying $460 for 3 more years. If anything going wrong at least im covered through Sharp. More that likely the 4k or 2160p tv will be main stream and that will be the replacement. wink.gif
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post #1640 of 1640
5/18/13 at 10:55pm
My local Magnolia guy (Best Buy) thinks that my Samsung HTiB's upconverting the Hulu+ signal was the culprit. Hulu+ tech support also suggests me to switch off the Samsung up-conversion but I don't know how to. I only watched OTA broadcast since then and the problem never re-appeared.

What video source were you watching and at what resolution? What device is your up-converter? I now don't think it's the TV itself, the fact that yours got a new mother board yet problem still appeared is a strong reinforcement of my belief, right?

To summarize, I have been using Comcast HD cable box that up-converts their crappy compressed signal to 1080p, OTA HD antenna, Blu-ray disc (3D or not) via my Samsung HTiB, Vudu, Netflix, Wii U, etc. Only Hulu+ caused the rippling effect problem among many other problems, like repetitive buffering, etc... My finger is pointing at Hulu+ at this time...
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