Panasonic PTAE7000/ AT5000 - Page 47

Nope.

Hey all. I have the 7000 and I now seem to have a vertical purple line running down the screen. It kind of phases in and out as different colors pass through it but it's really anoying. Changed the bulb and it's still there.

http://chattypics.com/files/dumbline_6jmqdmuric.jpg

Ok. odd. It seems to be my Onkyo TX-NR809 receiver is causing this. I ran the hdmi straight to the projector and the line went away.

Does the 7000 allow for any convergence correction? From what I can see the answer is no, but that seems to be a common feature at this price point. If no, what do you do if one of the panels drifts by a pixel (or more) - just have to live with it?
Edited by BartMan01 - 7/23/12 at 1:33pm

Iam looking to get one of these and want to use a scope screen at 105.5 inches wide.
The projector lens will be 11.5 feet away but i am unsure if this will work from that distance using the zoom mode.
Anyone now for sure or do i need to go smaller.
Many Thanks

Hello,

Im not happy with the sharpness of the picutre on my AE7000. For movies it works very well, but when I use it as a screen for my computer, im not happy with it. I had a Sanyo PLV-Z2 and found it sharper for computer text. True the AE7000 should have this soft focus thing to make space between pixles disapera but still. Seems one of the panels is 1 pixel off (at least) and some ghosting light above bright areas caused by the lens shift (and possiblt bad assembled lens system).

Im using the lens shift almost to around 80%, and the sahrpest I can get is as per attached photo. Is this good enough, or resaon to demand repair?

I also have this high ptich sound people talk about and find it quite loud. Its as lound as the fan. Should/can this be repaired? I understood that some projectors had en extra lound high pitch sound because of problem that could be repaired.

I have just bought a PT-AT5000 and it is a big improvement on my old Sony. However I have a problem. My picture keeps cutting out especially when first turned on. It seems especially bad on cartoons, possibly because the majority of the picture stays the same. It is also preceded sometimes by left to right bleeding. It also seems to be sensitive to temperature. When the house is hot the picture cuts out more often. I put the projector in Eco mode which was better than normal mode. I have also put it in high ceiling mode which increases the fan speed and helps. The projector is suspended from the ceiling at 2.55 mtrs (below the 2.7 mtrs max). This to me all indicates a thermal cut out problem although I am not sure about the bleed proble ( but this only really happens on cartoons). Anybody any ideas? There seems to be a mention of a service menus to adjust the fan speed, can anybody advise how to access this.

i have exactly the same issue, can this be repaired?

No. I have the issue as well. I think everybody does.

I no longer have the AE7000 as i moved up to the 8000 but my focus was actually much better than that. If that is the sharpest you can get yours I would try to RMA it. I'm no expert though, but my convergence was better than this.

do not buy the IR extender ET-TRM110, it is pure scam.
you will pay 200$ for absolutely nothing else than a piece of plastic and 5 led soldered on a little print + a minijack socket (total value, probably less than 10 buck)


ok i update this post with the technical info.

the five leds are 850 nm as specified in the ET-TRM110 manual. Leds are connected in series
the projector plug delivers 100mA (specified in projector manual) , so if you build your own emmitter make sure you do not go over 100ma, most led being between 20 and 50mA
if the connector drives the leds at 12V, you can expect that each led must have a forward voltage of 12/5= 2.4V, most common led are usually 1.4-1.6V, some are 1.6-2.0V,
so we can say if you take any cheap led on ebay there are chance they do not fit. Make sure the forward voltage is 2.3 or 2.4 V or use a resistor to lower voltage.
The Osram SFH4350 is rated 1.5-2.4V and 100mA with an angle of 26 degree (do not take the the 4550, the angle is 6 degree only ) so it is a perfect match, but you will not be able to fill the missing led with it, because you would then reach 200ma.
that could possibly burn the output port on the projector.
If you need more power It is better in that case to build a second emitter with 5 more leds and use the 2nd output port on the projector.
you can find the leds here http://www.led-eshop.de
If you make your own, there is no need to have a plug at the emitter side, just solder the cable directly to the circuit.
Use a cheap shielded cable (audio grade)

You should be able to buiild an emitter for less than 20$
Edited by nosys70 - 2/26/13 at 3:00am

LOL! It's not just a regular IR extender, it runs on a different frequency (different than the 2 main IR frequencies used by all manufacturers). Just try make it yourself and see whether it's going to work.

If I have to spend more than two hours sourcing and building the thing, it's not even worth my time doing it myself. It'll be cheaper for me just to buy the thing.