iRule - Page 129

I finally bought the irule with an itach gateway.I need codes for Onkyo HT-rc 360 and a sharp 42 in LCD.I could not locate these in the database.While surfing for these codes I came across a site called Controllercodes.com.I think I may be able to buy these codes but they have a lot of different type.Is the one for pronto (rcc) to buy?.I figured it would be easier to buy these than trying to teach the remote.Any suggestions welcome.

I just researched the xantech shelf ir blaster. It does properly amplify the signal and should be proper to use in your installation providing you have wired it as indicated in the product manual.

Could you send me a copy of the pronto hex codes, both as you got them from remote central and as you set them up in an rule device file. My name is Barry and I own the domain the-gordons.net so my email should be obvious.

Very strange. The next step will be to look at the receiving device

Have you tried Onkyo or Integra codes? They should be in the database, not modelspecific but might work. Have you searched remotecentral.com for your TV, any Sharp LCD might work.

For those interested in an in-wall solution for a iPad or iPod i strongly suggest a look at idocx. It is unique that the piece that goes in the wall is 3/8 inch in thickness so it is the same thickness as standard wallboard in the US. This means that stud location is not a consideration. The case is extruded plastic with a variety of bezels, and comes in two flavors, iPad size and iPod size.

In the wall is placed a small adapter cabled using POE cat 5. They are coming out with a power inserter good for 330 feet, current is 35 feet. The adapter plugs into the IPad and keeps it charged.

This case has forced the decision for me to replace my current in wall solution (one in each room) with iPad's. My entire home is controlled over wifi using Pronto PROs and the in wall units, but that is slowly changing

Cheers Barry. Those look really nice. Only thing I couldn't fint was a way to reach the "power" switch.

You are correct. They are always on and being trickle charged. I am planning on using a plain black screen as the off screen. Would be nice if there was a command to turn off power.

Going to check it out, but thought it was worth mentioning that while 3/8" GWB is a readily available thickness, 1/2" is standard, 3/8" is inferior when installed on studs @ 16" o/c.

I was thinking that this would be great combined with a mirror protection film, and that it would function as an ornament in the hall when not in use. Could be solved with jailbraking I guess.

Zellerman as long as the wallboard is thicker no issue. The installation uses toggles of the same type as most in wall speakers. If a stud is in the way of a toggle, you just remove the toggle and use a #4 wood screw through the same whole.

Raymagnu, why not set the home page as a slide show?

Thanks,I downloaded both and will program in irule.I am a noob so may take some learning but hopefully will get it going.It is intimidating but exciting!

Barry:
Yeah, I have considered this, and will use something simular in my livingroom. I think I know how to go about my idea, but it is still a project some time into the future.

Shah993:
Great to hear. I was a noob when I started too, and still am in some areas, but you'll get the hang of it soon enough.

Barry & Valdor

In regards to my issue with the pioneer avr and HTPC serial ports.....

As I have stated before, when the HTPC powers on from sleep mode it causes the AVR to turn on... I think this may be what has been happening when I have been away is the HTPC powers on and then the avr powers on and then the HTPC goes back to sleep leaving the AVR still on.

I would like to try and reduce the extra wires/pins on the RS 232 cable that I bought pre made from monoprice to just whats required by pioneer as you have both suggested. Could you advise me how best to do this, can I modify the existing ones, should I just snap off the unused pins???? any advice would be appreciated thanks!

I always make my own RS232 cables using cat 5 cable, RJ45 plugs and RJ45 to DB9 adapters.

If the connectors are molded on as I suspect, I suggest that you carefully slit the cable jacket for about 6" lengthwise with a razor. You can then pull out the wires. Using an ohm meter or continuity tester and a straight pin identify which wires are on pins 2,3,5. Pierce a wire with the pin and find which pin it connects to on each side. Check the Pioneer reference docs, I am pretty sure the only pins they need connected are 2,3,5. Assuming that is the case then snip all other wires perhaps cutting off about 1 inch so there is no possibility of them touching. A Pioneer spec I have calls for the shorting together of pins 1,4,6 on its connector, although I do not believe it to be necessary but it should not hurt. Strip back the wires that you have adentified as connecting to pins 1,4,6 on the Pioneeer end and twist them together, ideally soldering them. Lay them all back in the cable jacket and tape the jacket shut with plastic electrical tape. If done right there won't even be a bulge in the cable.

If you have an iPod programmed and buy an iPad, can you copy programming from your iPod setup or do you have to start from scratch?

iPod and iPad are two different layouts. If you dint feel like reprogramming, you can use iPod app on iPad.


Alex

Barry Thanks for the quick reply! It almost might be easier to build new cables!!! I will give it a go and let you know how I make out.

I just wanted to share some IRule excitement tonight!! I have been following this thread since its inception and have owned a builder license, Itach, and a bunch of Emitters since last December. Most of this time they have been sitting in their respective boxes I have built a set of panels for my Ipod touch and in the mean time acquired an Ipad which is what I truly wanted from the beginning!!

Well today I have wired my Itach into my equipment rack, attached emitters to my PS3 (Logitech Adapter,) Blu Ray Player, ran cat 5 to my front room TV, Electrical Fireplace, and Tilting Flat Panel Mount and spliced emitters for each in series to the cat 5.

That leaves me with a need to run Cat5/emitters to my bedroom TV, Theatre Projector, and Grafik Eye.

I have connected my two Pioneer AVR's by RS-232 via a PCI card in my HTPC with two serial ports and using two instances of TCP2Serial which is working well. I have hopes of this working with two way communication in future Irule Releases. (If it does not work or I can not solve my minor AVR self power on problem I will look into ebay digiport.)

Some of my excitement I had today is after updating my Itach's firmware I attempted to use the ilearner... I was worried about this due to reading lots of negative posts about getting it to work... I am happy to report that with a quick read of the Globalcache tutorial I was able to successfully capture the codes for my electric fireplace and automatic tilting flat panel mount from Costco which are working flawlessly!! If anybody has these I have shared the codes in the user database.

No onto the rest of the wiring and getting creative with the building of my Ipad panels!!

Appreciate your reply Alex. I understand the display formats are different, but it would make life lots easier if you could copy and paste buttons or pages to the iPad grid and just move stuff around to format for the iPad rather than re-entering buttons and codes and macros that you already programmed on the iPod.

Sounds like some good product requests Marcel

I'm having trouble with external (outside the LAN) web pages. They don't load and show as white spaces in the aRule app in the iPad. Local pages work fine. I sense I am missing a setting somewhere. Ideas?

I'm running DD-WRT firmware on a Linksys WRT-350N router through a cable modem.

Understand the need.

Copy and cut/paste of objects should be coming in the next version if the app and builder.


Alex

It should be the same. I have an igoogle embedded web page with no issues.


Alex

Is their an lag(I understand minimal lag) that is noticeable when using irule on the iPad? I was at an HT store and he said don't use the iPad with wifi because the lag is about 2 seconds. I know irule is the way to go for me but it does raise a concern with the lag. So I guess universal remote vs iPad running irule what is the lag time on both?

There's no noticable lag in normal use. What he might have meant is that if your iPad has gone to sleep it will take about 2 seconds to reconnect after you wake it up.

Thanks for the response. He was talking about changing channels and volume and such. I was just checking for real world use.

The response time with my ipad is faster than when I use the original remotes. I am using the ipad with a RS-232 gateway.

I'm wondering whether or not it is possible to assign an application to a button in iRule on my iPad? Let's say I press a "Spotify" button that opens the Spotify app. Is this achievable and in that case, how?

If not, is there a possibility to implement spotify commands in iRule other than this:


I would like to be able to search for songs on spotify which is running on my computer. Now I can just play, pause and choose previous/next song (like shown above).

Thanks in advance!

Anyone here using DiGi PortServer? If so, what type of gateway do you configure it as in iRule App?


Alex

Thanks that sounds good. Anyone else?

It's a network gateway, setup took me some figuring out, but it wasn't too bad. It would take me some serious backtracking to figure out exactly what I did since it was a while ago, but use the search tool and it should turn up some relevant info, that's what I did, and now I'm controlling two pieces of audio equipment with it.