or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

iRule - Page 129

post #3841 of 9744
I finally bought the irule with an itach gateway.I need codes for Onkyo HT-rc 360 and a sharp 42 in LCD.I could not locate these in the database.While surfing for these codes I came across a site called Controllercodes.com.I think I may be able to buy these codes but they have a lot of different type.Is the one for pronto (rcc) to buy?.I figured it would be easier to buy these than trying to teach the remote.Any suggestions welcome.
post #3842 of 9744
I just researched the xantech shelf ir blaster. It does properly amplify the signal and should be proper to use in your installation providing you have wired it as indicated in the product manual.

Could you send me a copy of the pronto hex codes, both as you got them from remote central and as you set them up in an rule device file. My name is Barry and I own the domain the-gordons.net so my email should be obvious.

Very strange. The next step will be to look at the receiving device
post #3843 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by shah993 View Post

I finally bought the irule with an itach gateway.I need codes for Onkyo HT-rc 360 and a sharp 42 in LCD.I could not locate these in the database.While surfing for these codes I came across a site called Controllercodes.com.I think I may be able to buy these codes but they have a lot of different type.Is the one for pronto (rcc) to buy?.I figured it would be easier to buy these than trying to teach the remote.Any suggestions welcome.

Have you tried Onkyo or Integra codes? They should be in the database, not modelspecific but might work. Have you searched remotecentral.com for your TV, any Sharp LCD might work.
post #3844 of 9744
For those interested in an in-wall solution for a iPad or iPod i strongly suggest a look at idocx. It is unique that the piece that goes in the wall is 3/8 inch in thickness so it is the same thickness as standard wallboard in the US. This means that stud location is not a consideration. The case is extruded plastic with a variety of bezels, and comes in two flavors, iPad size and iPod size.

In the wall is placed a small adapter cabled using POE cat 5. They are coming out with a power inserter good for 330 feet, current is 35 feet. The adapter plugs into the IPad and keeps it charged.

This case has forced the decision for me to replace my current in wall solution (one in each room) with iPad's. My entire home is controlled over wifi using Pronto PROs and the in wall units, but that is slowly changing
post #3845 of 9744
Cheers Barry. Those look really nice. Only thing I couldn't fint was a way to reach the "power" switch.
post #3846 of 9744
You are correct. They are always on and being trickle charged. I am planning on using a plain black screen as the off screen. Would be nice if there was a command to turn off power.
post #3847 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by barrygordon View Post

For those interested in an in-wall solution for a iPad or iPod i strongly suggest a look at idocx. It is unique that the piece that goes in the wall is 3/8 inch in thickness so it is the same thickness as standard wallboard in the US. This means that stud location is not a consideration. The case is extruded plastic with a variety of bezels, and comes in two flavors, iPad size and iPod size.

In the wall is placed a small adapter cabled using POE cat 5. They are coming out with a power inserter good for 330 feet, current is 35 feet. The adapter plugs into the IPad and keeps it charged.

This case has forced the decision for me to replace my current in wall solution (one in each room) with iPad's. My entire home is controlled over wifi using Pronto PROs and the in wall units, but that is slowly changing

Going to check it out, but thought it was worth mentioning that while 3/8" GWB is a readily available thickness, 1/2" is standard, 3/8" is inferior when installed on studs @ 16" o/c.
post #3848 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by barrygordon View Post

You are correct. They are always on and being trickle charged. I am planning on using a plain black screen as the off screen. Would be nice if there was a command to turn off power.

I was thinking that this would be great combined with a mirror protection film, and that it would function as an ornament in the hall when not in use. Could be solved with jailbraking I guess.
post #3849 of 9744
Zellerman as long as the wallboard is thicker no issue. The installation uses toggles of the same type as most in wall speakers. If a stud is in the way of a toggle, you just remove the toggle and use a #4 wood screw through the same whole.

Raymagnu, why not set the home page as a slide show?
post #3850 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by raymagnu View Post

Have you tried Onkyo or Integra codes? They should be in the database, not modelspecific but might work. Have you searched remotecentral.com for your TV, any Sharp LCD might work.

Thanks,I downloaded both and will program in irule.I am a noob so may take some learning but hopefully will get it going.It is intimidating but exciting!
post #3851 of 9744
Barry:
Yeah, I have considered this, and will use something simular in my livingroom. I think I know how to go about my idea, but it is still a project some time into the future.

Shah993:
Great to hear. I was a noob when I started too, and still am in some areas, but you'll get the hang of it soon enough.
post #3852 of 9744
Barry & Valdor

In regards to my issue with the pioneer avr and HTPC serial ports.....

As I have stated before, when the HTPC powers on from sleep mode it causes the AVR to turn on... I think this may be what has been happening when I have been away is the HTPC powers on and then the avr powers on and then the HTPC goes back to sleep leaving the AVR still on.

I would like to try and reduce the extra wires/pins on the RS 232 cable that I bought pre made from monoprice to just whats required by pioneer as you have both suggested. Could you advise me how best to do this, can I modify the existing ones, should I just snap off the unused pins???? any advice would be appreciated thanks!
post #3853 of 9744
I always make my own RS232 cables using cat 5 cable, RJ45 plugs and RJ45 to DB9 adapters.

If the connectors are molded on as I suspect, I suggest that you carefully slit the cable jacket for about 6" lengthwise with a razor. You can then pull out the wires. Using an ohm meter or continuity tester and a straight pin identify which wires are on pins 2,3,5. Pierce a wire with the pin and find which pin it connects to on each side. Check the Pioneer reference docs, I am pretty sure the only pins they need connected are 2,3,5. Assuming that is the case then snip all other wires perhaps cutting off about 1 inch so there is no possibility of them touching. A Pioneer spec I have calls for the shorting together of pins 1,4,6 on its connector, although I do not believe it to be necessary but it should not hurt. Strip back the wires that you have adentified as connecting to pins 1,4,6 on the Pioneeer end and twist them together, ideally soldering them. Lay them all back in the cable jacket and tape the jacket shut with plastic electrical tape. If done right there won't even be a bulge in the cable.
post #3854 of 9744
If you have an iPod programmed and buy an iPad, can you copy programming from your iPod setup or do you have to start from scratch?
post #3855 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcel J. Dumeny View Post

If you have an iPod programmed and buy an iPad, can you copy programming from your iPod setup or do you have to start from scratch?

iPod and iPad are two different layouts. If you dint feel like reprogramming, you can use iPod app on iPad.


Alex
post #3856 of 9744
Barry Thanks for the quick reply! It almost might be easier to build new cables!!! I will give it a go and let you know how I make out.
post #3857 of 9744
I just wanted to share some IRule excitement tonight!! I have been following this thread since its inception and have owned a builder license, Itach, and a bunch of Emitters since last December. Most of this time they have been sitting in their respective boxes I have built a set of panels for my Ipod touch and in the mean time acquired an Ipad which is what I truly wanted from the beginning!!

Well today I have wired my Itach into my equipment rack, attached emitters to my PS3 (Logitech Adapter,) Blu Ray Player, ran cat 5 to my front room TV, Electrical Fireplace, and Tilting Flat Panel Mount and spliced emitters for each in series to the cat 5.

That leaves me with a need to run Cat5/emitters to my bedroom TV, Theatre Projector, and Grafik Eye.

I have connected my two Pioneer AVR's by RS-232 via a PCI card in my HTPC with two serial ports and using two instances of TCP2Serial which is working well. I have hopes of this working with two way communication in future Irule Releases. (If it does not work or I can not solve my minor AVR self power on problem I will look into ebay digiport.)

Some of my excitement I had today is after updating my Itach's firmware I attempted to use the ilearner... I was worried about this due to reading lots of negative posts about getting it to work... I am happy to report that with a quick read of the Globalcache tutorial I was able to successfully capture the codes for my electric fireplace and automatic tilting flat panel mount from Costco which are working flawlessly!! If anybody has these I have shared the codes in the user database.

No onto the rest of the wiring and getting creative with the building of my Ipad panels!!
post #3858 of 9744
Appreciate your reply Alex. I understand the display formats are different, but it would make life lots easier if you could copy and paste buttons or pages to the iPad grid and just move stuff around to format for the iPad rather than re-entering buttons and codes and macros that you already programmed on the iPod.
post #3859 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcel J. Dumeny View Post

Appreciate your reply Alex. I understand the display formats are different, but it would make life lots easier if you could copy and paste buttons or pages to the iPad grid and just move stuff around to format for the iPad rather than re-entering buttons and codes and macros that you already programmed on the iPod.

Sounds like some good product requests Marcel
post #3860 of 9744
I'm having trouble with external (outside the LAN) web pages. They don't load and show as white spaces in the aRule app in the iPad. Local pages work fine. I sense I am missing a setting somewhere. Ideas?

I'm running DD-WRT firmware on a Linksys WRT-350N router through a cable modem.
post #3861 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcel J. Dumeny View Post

Appreciate your reply Alex. I understand the display formats are different, but it would make life lots easier if you could copy and paste buttons or pages to the iPad grid and just move stuff around to format for the iPad rather than re-entering buttons and codes and macros that you already programmed on the iPod.

Understand the need.

Copy and cut/paste of objects should be coming in the next version if the app and builder.


Alex
post #3862 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarrega View Post

I'm having trouble with external (outside the LAN) web pages. They don't load and show as white spaces in the aRule app in the iPad. Local pages work fine. I sense I am missing a setting somewhere. Ideas?

I'm running DD-WRT firmware on a Linksys WRT-350N router through a cable modem.

It should be the same. I have an igoogle embedded web page with no issues.


Alex
post #3863 of 9744
Is their an lag(I understand minimal lag) that is noticeable when using irule on the iPad? I was at an HT store and he said don't use the iPad with wifi because the lag is about 2 seconds. I know irule is the way to go for me but it does raise a concern with the lag. So I guess universal remote vs iPad running irule what is the lag time on both?
post #3864 of 9744
There's no noticable lag in normal use. What he might have meant is that if your iPad has gone to sleep it will take about 2 seconds to reconnect after you wake it up.
post #3865 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post

There's no noticable lag in normal use. What he might have meant is that if your iPad has gone to sleep it will take about 2 seconds to reconnect after you wake it up.

Thanks for the response. He was talking about changing channels and volume and such. I was just checking for real world use.
post #3866 of 9744
The response time with my ipad is faster than when I use the original remotes. I am using the ipad with a RS-232 gateway.
post #3867 of 9744
I'm wondering whether or not it is possible to assign an application to a button in iRule on my iPad? Let's say I press a "Spotify" button that opens the Spotify app. Is this achievable and in that case, how?

If not, is there a possibility to implement spotify commands in iRule other than this:


I would like to be able to search for songs on spotify which is running on my computer. Now I can just play, pause and choose previous/next song (like shown above).

Thanks in advance!
post #3868 of 9744
Anyone here using DiGi PortServer? If so, what type of gateway do you configure it as in iRule App?


Alex
post #3869 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam-DiVine View Post

The response time with my ipad is faster than when I use the original remotes. I am using the ipad with a RS-232 gateway.

Thanks that sounds good. Anyone else?
post #3870 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by osupike99 View Post

Anyone here using DiGi PortServer? If so, what type of gateway do you configure it as in iRule App?

Alex

It's a network gateway, setup took me some figuring out, but it wasn't too bad. It would take me some serious backtracking to figure out exactly what I did since it was a while ago, but use the search tool and it should turn up some relevant info, that's what I did, and now I'm controlling two pieces of audio equipment with it.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Remote Control Area