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post #7111 of 9739
Hey Guys!

I'm struggling with a Pioneer VSX 1022

I have a lot of different rooms I'm working on, I have an Apple Time Machine, Airport Extreme, and 2 Airport Expresses, The Time capsule was the Base station and others were reset and added to network.

My DirecTv is working flawlessly, I even have DirecTv showing up in the VSX 1022 so it seems there connectability here, Pandora and all that works fine. I have an VSX1122 at a different home on the Ranch and I can control that flawlessly on about the same network ( Airport Extreme + Airport Express) but that VSX receiver is plugged into the Extreme base station. At the problem area the VSX is plugged into the Airport extreme which was ADDED to the Time capsule Base station wirelessly.

When I add the Pioneer to the iRule Gateways as HTTP I'm green, no control, when I add it as Network Gateway ( which is how I got the 1122 to work) it's Red

Can anyone think of something I'm missing?
post #7112 of 9739
I did it! I did it! I got my iTach WF2IR in!!!

EDIT: I have it connected! .... now for the learning.... any input is encouraged wink.gif

So I have iBuilder up.... and I found the WestingHouse groups... 1 & 2.... trying the basics... volume and down first.... but when I pull up my phone to sync... the app crashes... anyone know what I'm screwing up?? (Password had to be updated!)

Now onto why the tv isn't responding to me... going to make sure I have the IR located properly!
Edited by SeanKosmann - 10/30/12 at 7:24am
post #7113 of 9739
Hi Sean,

Regarding the sync crash, what version of iRule are you using, and on which platform? Have you tried deleting and reinstalling the app?

As for finding the IR receiver, you can usually use a bright flashlight to peer "inside" the front/bezel area of the TV to find the receiver. You can also use the factory remote pressed right up agains the bezel of the TV and slide it across with the volume up button held down until the TV responds. If you don't want to touch the TV bezel, use a paper towel tube and/or hold it away 1/4" as you slide.

SC
post #7114 of 9739
I got the app working, I had changed my password to my email and needed to update it. But instead of just flagging a bad password, it just kicks you out of the app.

I'm going to try to locate the IR now, I'll let you know if I get it!

NOPE, still nothing!?!?! I put the remote next tot he bottom of the tv and located the area that it receives the signal... put the IR emitter there.... I see the emitter lighting up so it's getting the single... and I've added two volume buttons to my panel, one setup for WestingHouse tvs Group 1 and the other to Group 2.... nothing from either...

This is the remote I'm trying to replace.... http://www.shopjimmy.com/westinghouse-rmt-19-remote-control.htm

Not sure if that helps at all
Edited by SeanKosmann - 10/30/12 at 8:52am
post #7115 of 9739
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark P View Post

I'm struggling with a Pioneer VSX 1022
I have a lot of different rooms I'm working on, I have an Apple Time Machine, Airport Extreme, and 2 Airport Expresses, The Time capsule was the Base station and others were reset and added to network.
My DirecTv is working flawlessly, I even have DirecTv showing up in the VSX 1022 so it seems there connectability here, Pandora and all that works fine. I have an VSX1122 at a different home on the Ranch and I can control that flawlessly on about the same network ( Airport Extreme + Airport Express) but that VSX receiver is plugged into the Extreme base station. At the problem area the VSX is plugged into the Airport extreme which was ADDED to the Time capsule Base station wirelessly.
When I add the Pioneer to the iRule Gateways as HTTP I'm green, no control, when I add it as Network Gateway ( which is how I got the 1122 to work) it's Red
Can anyone think of something I'm missing?

Hi Mark,

I had a little trouble following which things were/weren't working, where, and connected to which devices (and how)... But, two things come to mind:

First, don't waste any time creating HTTP connections and looking at the green gateway status symbol as evidence of anything. iRule doesn't open a socket to an HTTP device until you push a button, so the gateway will always look green... The "activity" arrows will flash red if your HTTP gateway is bad. So, focus in the network gateway as in your working system.

Have you tried seeing if the Pioneer app will connect/work with the 1122? The reason I ask is that it is possible to configure the Wi-Fi "extenders" in such a way that the Pioneer could see the internet, but that iRule wouldn't be able to see the Pioneer. Open your AirPort Utility and make sure the Airport Extreme you have the 1122 connected to has its Connection Sharing set to "Off (Bridge Mode)."

Cheers,
SC
post #7116 of 9739
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanKosmann View Post

NOPE, still nothing!?!?! I put the remote next tot he bottom of the tv and located the area that it receives the signal... put the IR emitter there.... I see the emitter lighting up so it's getting the single... and I've added two volume buttons to my panel, one setup for WestingHouse tvs Group 1 and the other to Group 2.... nothing from either...
This is the remote I'm trying to replace.... http://www.shopjimmy.com/westinghouse-rmt-19-remote-control.htm
Not sure if that helps at all

You have a couple of options, easiest to hardest:

1) On that website you linked, that remote cross-references to a Vizio remote. So, you could try the Vizio commands in the Builder. There's also a Group 1 and Group 2 for Vizio, so it won't take long to test.

2) Try using iLearn and your iTach to learn a couple of commands as Pronto Hex commands, then paste those strings into new device codes in the Builder, and test. If it works, learn all the commands you need. It's probably an hour worth of work all-in if you end up going that route.

3) Found a couple of posts via Google where people with Westinghouse TVs had to update firmware to get control to work via a DirecTV or Comcast universal remote. That makes no sense to me, but who knows?

Cheers,
SC
post #7117 of 9739
HOLY CRAP! That worked.... how did you track that down?? Ok... so I'll play with that... now I'm running into the same issue with my Motorolla DCX3200-M which is my Cox Cable box.... I noticed there are several options in terms of cable boxes to import... same thing where I just need to check them all?


SPOKE TOO SOON! That only worked for power and volume controls... can't get HDMI inputs to change or sleep.... guess I need to start learning about iLearn? Because that seems to be what I'll need to program for the things like this that won't work...

So I just read through the tutorial on the iLearner..... I have it configured... but it's not picking up any commands from the remote.... any thoughts on how I'm screwing this one up? But I'm thinking that the Cable box is taking RF commands.... how does that work with an IR emitter? Am I just SOL? Or do I need an adapter of some sort? I do know it has an IR IN on the back... so going to track down a 3.5mm cable to try to hardwire it directly to the iTach....
Edited by SeanKosmann - 10/30/12 at 1:22pm
post #7118 of 9739
thanks! can you talk more about the new template layouts?
post #7119 of 9739
Nuvo Essentia advice needed. I myself have a Russound CAV66 working with no problems, however I was so happy with irule I got my friend interested. He has a Nuvo Essentia setup. I setup the GUI for him using the RS232 codes found in the builder. The only thing that works is the power on and off. The source changes won't work (they work from the keypads). Not quite sure what the problem is, any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Paul
post #7120 of 9739
Hi Paul,

The protocol in the Builder for the Nuvo piece looks good to me.

- Are you using the "Nuvo Grand Concerto/Essentia" device in the Builder?
- The "power on and off" you're referring to... Do you mean "zone 1 on" or "zone 1 off"?
- Did you confirm that the iTach serial port settings are configured correctly for the Nuvo? (9600 baud, 8N1)

Regards,
SC
post #7121 of 9739
With thanks to Steve Goff for graphics and design inspiration, I finally have pages I am happy with.

First page controls my Tivo. Links to other pages are on the left, and basic Amp and TV controls are on the right.



Next is the same page, with a drawer open for Tivo keyboard entry (thanks to Jim Clamage, I believe, for the keyboard graphic):



Next is a page for going to specific channels on the Tivo:



Finally, a page for TV and Amp controls:



The fourth page looks the same as the first, but uses IR control for the Tivo instead of IP, as a backup.

Thanks, guys!!
post #7122 of 9739
So this is a silly question b/c I have got it all working and worked through my issues... but under the devices you have Global Cache codes, Pronto (Hex) codes, network codes and database codes. I use network codes for my IP/RS232 devices .. are the other device codes for IR? Is one preferred over the other? Just looking for clarification for the future .. **searched iruleathome.com but didn't come up with anything specific, just that they are IR code sections.
post #7123 of 9739
Yes, I'm using the "Nuvo Grand Concerto/Essentia" device in the Builder.
No I didn't confirm the itach settings, however I figured if the power on/off was working, the commands were getting to it.
For now we have 3 zones set up with 4 sources and "zone 1 on" or "zone 1 off", "zone 2 on" or "zone 2 off", "zone 3 on" or "zone 3 off" works .... very strange. I'll double check the itach setting just to make sure.

Thanks,

Paul
Quote:
Originally Posted by ecrabb View Post

Hi Paul,
The protocol in the Builder for the Nuvo piece looks good to me.
- Are you using the "Nuvo Grand Concerto/Essentia" device in the Builder?
- The "power on and off" you're referring to... Do you mean "zone 1 on" or "zone 1 off"?
- Did you confirm that the iTach serial port settings are configured correctly for the Nuvo? (9600 baud, 8N1)
Regards,
SC
post #7124 of 9739
Quote:
Originally Posted by ecrabb View Post

Hi Mark,
I had a little trouble following which things were/weren't working, where, and connected to which devices (and how)... But, two things come to mind:
First, don't waste any time creating HTTP connections and looking at the green gateway status symbol as evidence of anything. iRule doesn't open a socket to an HTTP device until you push a button, so the gateway will always look green... The "activity" arrows will flash red if your HTTP gateway is bad. So, focus in the network gateway as in your working system.
Have you tried seeing if the Pioneer app will connect/work with the 1122? The reason I ask is that it is possible to configure the Wi-Fi "extenders" in such a way that the Pioneer could see the internet, but that iRule wouldn't be able to see the Pioneer. Open your AirPort Utility and make sure the Airport Extreme you have the 1122 connected to has its Connection Sharing set to "Off (Bridge Mode)."
Cheers,
SC

Port was 8102 on this pioneer product, not 23 works like a champ. Thank goodness I got the Pioneer controlapp working and was able to dig through its settings.

Is there another forum somewhere beside here and iRules support to find answers?
Edited by Mark P - 11/1/12 at 5:12am
post #7125 of 9739
I see the ipad mini as perfect for HT control device, the basic model wifi only.
No need more GB storage or data plan.

Who here will be first to do that?


Sent from my 32GB iPhone4 using Tapatalk
post #7126 of 9739
Quote:
Originally Posted by pauleyc View Post

So this is a silly question b/c I have got it all working and worked through my issues... but under the devices you have Global Cache codes, Pronto (Hex) codes, network codes and database codes. I use network codes for my IP/RS232 devices .. are the other device codes for IR? Is one preferred over the other? Just looking for clarification for the future .. **searched iruleathome.com but didn't come up with anything specific, just that they are IR code sections.

Pronto Hex and Global Cache codes are both for IR. You can use whichever you prefer, and iRule always sends the command out in GC format (converting from Hex on the fly if needed).

Database codes are also IR, but you can't enter your own codes there and you don't get to see the codes that iRule is sending.
post #7127 of 9739
What are the device codes that you are using to control the Xbox and how are you sending those to the Xbox (i.e. by IR or by IP)?
post #7128 of 9739
You can control the Xbox thru ir using the codes found in the builder. I believe the device is called Xbox 360 slim.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
post #7129 of 9739
Quote:
Originally Posted by thepainter View Post

Yes, I'm using the "Nuvo Grand Concerto/Essentia" device in the Builder.
No I didn't confirm the itach settings, however I figured if the power on/off was working, the commands were getting to it.
For now we have 3 zones set up with 4 sources and "zone 1 on" or "zone 1 off", "zone 2 on" or "zone 2 off", "zone 3 on" or "zone 3 off" works .... very strange. I'll double check the itach setting just to make sure.
Thanks,
Paul

i got 2 sets of nuvo serial codes in the builder. they both work perfect cause i'm using them both right now. one should have the first 6 zones and the other should have up to 12 i think?

jimi
post #7130 of 9739
Quote:
Originally Posted by thepainter View Post

Nuvo Essentia advice needed. I myself have a Russound CAV66 working with no problems, however I was so happy with irule I got my friend interested. He has a Nuvo Essentia setup. I setup the GUI for him using the RS232 codes found in the builder. The only thing that works is the power on and off. The source changes won't work (they work from the keypads). Not quite sure what the problem is, any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Paul

ok i just checked my diff builds.

the one u guys should use is "Nuvo Grand Concerto/Essentia" or "NUVO GC" if u don't need as namy zones. they are NETWORK CODES.

They all work. There are even direct vol levels to make listening easier instead of taking vol up and down.
and here r some screen shots

jimi

0/]6884047110_eba8234d59_b.jpg[/url]
Untitled by jimim, on Flickr

7030148069_bbccbaae50_b.jpg
Untitled by jimim, on Flickr
post #7131 of 9739
Please bear with me as I have some questions on this system, and my brain is having trouble wrapping around this concept.

I am replacing an MX3000 as I like the idea of my daughter and wife having their own "remote" so to speak with it set up exactly how they like. I'm not quite sure on what components I would need to purchase to move forward. Below is my component list.

1) Onkyo 3009 (232)
2) Oppo 1003 (232)
3) ISY99 (232) [control of all my Smart Home lighting]
4) JVC 4810 - I ran 2 cat6 cables along with my HDMI. From what I understand I should just be able to buy a cat6 to 232 connector for 10 bucks and run this on 232?
5) Xbox
6) Wii
7) SMS-1 (IR)
8) XA2 (232)
9) Flat screen TV (not sure what yet)
10) Wireless router will be in equipment closet
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________'

A) How many 232 components can each Itach control? Is it only 1? Can my 232 Components be controlled directly via my wireless router 232 ports?
B) Would the GC100 be the best fit for my scenario?
C) Anything else I'm missing?

Thanks
post #7132 of 9739
Wow! Quite overwhelmed with how much reading I have to do to get started.
I have an iPhone and an iPad.
I have 3 home theatre systems that I'd like to control, and a whole house of X-10 home automation light switches, AC sockets, cameras, motion detectors etc. There will also be certain lights and HTPCs that will come on when receiving an X-10 input from the motion detectors, and these need to be switched on and off by manually giving the signal too.

I have bought a GC-100-12 lots of IR blasters, and X-10 modules, including a IR-X10 IR543. The three home theatres all feature Onkyo network receivers, and I think that will be the easy part. I can already control them via Phone from a number of apps, most usefully, O-Remote. All of them are driven by HTPCs running JRiver Media Center. The 7.1 system is principally music only, but does feature a 1080p touchscreen. The 11.2 systems feature a 1080p Samsung TV, and a 1080p Epson projector and a mirrored 1080p touchscreen. I am trying to decide whether I need to get a USB-UIRT too. Have various IR receivers for my HTPCs as well, soundgraph, MCE etc.
My goal is to have dual options to control everything, perhaps even a third option.

They are:
1) To have iRule control everything, with a smart interface to run JRiver, X-10 lighting and powering on/off of subwoofers and bass-shakers, and the most commonly used receiver functions, e.g. volume, source, switching between height and wide speakers in the two 11.2 home theatres, and the DSP. To control the cameras too, so that they can easily be called up while watching a movie, for example.
2) To control it all (except cameras?) from a couple of Harmony One remotes too (for the wife, who will prefer this to an iPad)
Possibly:
3) To control all this from an X-10 NStinct remote (which can learn the IR codes too), but to do it using X10 commands, by using X-10 to IR units which I will be getting as part of a bigger package, or by using other software with IR blasters etc talking to the the PC or GC-100-12 etc.

Obviously it's option 1 that I am here for. Now to start reading at the beginning...
post #7133 of 9739
Following up to my own post. I'm on the trial version of iRule Builder, and last night I got one of the Onkyo 5007s volume working via TCP control and managed to get the subwoofer turning on and off via X-10 commander http controls (after ~100 attempts, which could have been done much easier if I'd read some of the stuff in this thread that i found later today). I think the rest will be trivial for the two 5007 receivers' control and X-10 too. Now will wait for the GC-100-12 to arrive for IR control of the TV, projector, and dining room Onkyo 1007. I think I will read more of this thread and then shell out for the Pro version. Some nice looking remotes you guys have!
post #7134 of 9739
I'm looking at making the jump into irule and I'm really considering a Samsung Galaxy Tab 2 (7"). I don't own any Android devices, but really like the idea of a 7" tablet for the remote in the theater room and the ipad mini seems overpriced since this tab will be for a remote only.

My question is: What are the differences between irule for iOS and Android? Are there features that the Android version can't do?
post #7135 of 9739
I have both a iPad and an android tablet and can confidently saw get the iPad. Android is an afterthought for iRule it seems and features are released first on iOS. Also I have run into a bunch of bugs in android that just don't happen in iOS. I have force closes all the time, buttons that stop working until I resync, lag, most of the time the vibrate and display keep alive options don't work, etc... I have used iRule on multiple android devices and it just isn't as stable.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
post #7136 of 9739
Quote:
Originally Posted by bass addict View Post

Please bear with me as I have some questions on this system, and my brain is having trouble wrapping around this concept.
I am replacing an MX3000 as I like the idea of my daughter and wife having their own "remote" so to speak with it set up exactly how they like. I'm not quite sure on what components I would need to purchase to move forward. Below is my component list.
1) Onkyo 3009 (232)
2) Oppo 1003 (232)
3) ISY99 (232) [control of all my Smart Home lighting]
4) JVC 4810 - I ran 2 cat6 cables along with my HDMI. From what I understand I should just be able to buy a cat6 to 232 connector for 10 bucks and run this on 232?
5) Xbox
6) Wii
7) SMS-1 (IR)
8) XA2 (232)
9) Flat screen TV (not sure what yet)
10) Wireless router will be in equipment closet
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________'
A) How many 232 components can each Itach control? Is it only 1? Can my 232 Components be controlled directly via my wireless router 232 ports?
B) Would the GC100 be the best fit for my scenario?
C) Anything else I'm missing?
Thanks


If I were you I'd set protocol priority as: IP compatibility first, then RS232, then of course IR. Like with our JVC's you can control everything with IP commands (I believe as well your Onkyo has LAN support). None of the IP or HTTP devices require a GC adapter but when going serial you'll need some sort of (expensive) multi-port distribution box as the GC100 (12), only has a max of two ports (and keep in mind the older 100x series adapters can only support one simultaneous control device at a a time (eg - one iPad or iPhone).

If you already have a network switch in your rack then I suggest the IP2IR which works flawlessly for me and supports up to 8 simul. control devices (not to mention iLearn for learning IR commands not in the iRule DB).

wink.gif
post #7137 of 9739

Sv: iRule

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacon13 View Post

I'm looking at making the jump into irule and I'm really considering a Samsung Galaxy Tab 2 (7"). I don't own any Android devices, but really like the idea of a 7" tablet for the remote in the theater room and the ipad mini seems overpriced since this tab will be for a remote only.

My question is: What are the differences between irule for iOS and Android? Are there features that the Android version can't do?

I am using a GalaxyTab 2 7" and it works very well. Never had a crash or other problem.

The only little glitch I have found is that the vibrate-on-tap setting sometimes is forgotten and neers to be toggled.

There may be some functionality in the iOS version not yet in Android but nothing that I am missing.

Nice not to have to be locked onto the Apple platform.

Skickat från min LT18i via Tapatalk 2
post #7138 of 9739
Quote:
Originally Posted by krichter1 View Post

If I were you I'd set protocol priority as: IP compatibility first, then RS232, then of course IR. Like with our JVC's you can control everything with IP commands (I believe as well your Onkyo has LAN support). None of the IP or HTTP devices require a GC adapter but when going serial you'll need some sort of (expensive) multi-port distribution box as the GC100 (12), only has a max of two ports (and keep in mind the older 100x series adapters can only support one simultaneous control device at a a time (eg - one iPad or iPhone).
If you already have a network switch in your rack then I suggest the IP2IR which works flawlessly for me and supports up to 8 simul. control devices (not to mention iLearn for learning IR commands not in the iRule DB).
wink.gif

Thanks for a little clarification. So anything that has an ethernet port can be controlled via my local network? No additional components needed?

I'd obviously need a hub as my router only has 3 outputs. Would this one work or is there something I'm missing here?

31cLPAG-ciL.jpg

So if I understand what you're saying I should change my setup to this. That would give me 2IR ports, which would work great with the IP2IR you recommended. The hub will give me up to 8 connectable components (if that will work).

1) Onkyo 3009 (ethernet)
2) Oppo 1003 (ethernet)
3) ISY99 (ethernet) [control of all my Smart Home lighting]
4) JVC 4810 - (ethernet)
5) Xbox (IR)
6) Wii (nothing frown.gif )
7) SMS-1 (IR)
8) XA2 (ethernet)
9) Flat screen TV (ethernet)
10) Wireless router will be in equipment closet
Edited by bass addict - 11/4/12 at 11:27pm
post #7139 of 9739
Quote:
Originally Posted by bass addict View Post

Thanks for a little clarification. So anything that has an ethernet port can be controlled via my local network?
No. Generally speaking, ethernet ports don't automatically mean IP control. In fact, very few components can be controlled via IP, although, fortunately, the list is getting longer. It's best to check with the manufacturer to find out if your components can be controlled over an ethernet connection.
post #7140 of 9739

Slighly Udated iRule UI.

Made some slight enhancements to my iRule GUI and thought I'd share them.


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