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post #7711 of 8393
1/7/13 at 10:37am
Question: When I resize a button or icon the background square is resized but the image is no longer centered over the actual button. How do I center the image over the actual button area? This also sucks when a resized button needs text its next to impossible to get the text centered on the button b/c the text is centered on the background area......

Just got the theater up and running all on Irule. Cant wait to invite the boys over and show off my new toy.
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post #7712 of 8393
1/7/13 at 10:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Question: When I resize a button or icon the background square is resized but the image is no longer centered over the actual button. How do I center the image over the actual button area? This also sucks when a resized button needs text its next to impossible to get the text centered on the button b/c the text is centered on the background area......
Just got the theater up and running all on Irule. Cant wait to invite the boys over and show off my new toy.

What are you using to edit your buttons and icons? I can give you some hints when using Photoshop.
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post #7713 of 8393
1/7/13 at 11:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Question: When I resize a button or icon the background square is resized but the image is no longer centered over the actual button. How do I center the image over the actual button area? This also sucks when a resized button needs text its next to impossible to get the text centered on the button b/c the text is centered on the background area......
Just got the theater up and running all on Irule. Cant wait to invite the boys over and show off my new toy.
It sounds like you're trying to create the graphic on top of the button using the Builder. You will drive yourself crazy trying to do this. It is always better to layer a graphic/icon onto a button using image editing software and then import the button into the builder.
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post #7714 of 8393
1/7/13 at 11:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Clamage View Post

What are you using to edit your buttons and icons? I can give you some hints when using Photoshop.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mborner View Post

It sounds like you're trying to create the graphic on top of the button using the Builder. You will drive yourself crazy trying to do this. It is always better to layer a graphic/icon onto a button using image editing software and then import the button into the builder.

NicksHitachi,
I almost always try to use image editor, but one of the tricks I use in the builder is as follows: U can play around with the width and heights of both the button and say the label to fine tune the position. Its not always fool proof, but for example if the button is 5 wide and the label is 4 wide and you can't get it to center up, try changing the width of the label or icon to match the button and then change the location (row/column) and see if that helps find the center line. Same for height. And I've also found that if the button has an even numbered width say 6, I change it to and odd number say 7 and match the label or icon to 7 and that sometimes works too.

But as mborner says, using an image editor is foolproof.

Good luck.
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post #7715 of 8393
1/7/13 at 11:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Clamage View Post

For those looking at buying or upgrading GC-100s (or iTachs for that matter), don't forget that for $5 each you can double each ir output from those devices by using one of these:

Might be a bit more economical than going to the next unit up if you need more outputs. I use them in my system without any issues.

http://www.amazon.com/Next-Generation-Infrared-Control-Extender/dp/B001AZPZTK/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1357587541&sr=8-9&keywords=ir+emitter


I have also used this with really good luck. 6 in one! The cable will rip apart giving you really good flexibility in running the cable.
Edited by impmonkey - 1/7/13 at 11:46am
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post #7716 of 8393
1/7/13 at 11:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by impmonkey View Post

http://www.amazon.com/Next-Generation-Infrared-Control-Extender/dp/B001AZPZTK/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1357587541&sr=8-9&keywords=ir+emitter
I have also used this with really good luck. 6 in one! The cable will rip apart giving you really good flexibility in running the cable.

Very nice!
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post #7717 of 8393
1/7/13 at 1:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacon13 View Post

Insteon hub (not sure if there is iRule support for this yet)
This is the brand new preferred way...I'm sure you could make it work with iRule but it may take some doing... However, the Hub has had a ton of bugs and people have been really struggling making them work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacon13 View Post

ISY 99i with plm ( by far the most expensive and overkill for the 3 lights I want to control)
I agree it's overkill for 3 lights, but if you have any intention of expanding your Insteon system, the ISY is truly amazing. It's far and away the best controller for Insteon IMHO, and it will easily integrate with iRule.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacon13 View Post

Smartlinc controller (not sure if this can store different scenes with different ramp rates, level, etc.)
Plm with Houselinc (Houselinc to get everything setup, but does the computer need to be up and running to remember everything?)
Both of these options are technically deprecated...Smarthome is going to be pushing the Hub as the new way...and Houselinc 2 is their software now... WIth the Houselinc option, yes, the computer would have to be running all of the time. You could do everything you want to do with Smartlinc, and that is probably your cheapest option.

If your iRule setup already uses some Infrared through an iTach or GC unit, then another super cheap option would be to simply buy an IRLinc Receiver. Then you'd just send IR at the IRLinc to control the lights. You'd have to setup and link all of your scenes manually between the devices using the set buttons, but you only have a few so that wouldn't be so bad.
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post #7718 of 8393
1/7/13 at 2:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by impmonkey View Post

http://www.amazon.com/Next-Generation-Infrared-Control-Extender/dp/B001AZPZTK/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1357587541&sr=8-9&keywords=ir+emitter
I have also used this with really good luck. 6 in one! The cable will rip apart giving you really good flexibility in running the cable.

Do I set the IR port to be a blaster or just normal IR port with this?
I might consider replacing this with the blaster I use currently.. if it is really point to point and should react much faster and more accurate...
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post #7719 of 8393
1/7/13 at 4:48pm
I have mine on a regular port and it is working fine. 2 Receivers, PS3, 360, and a Monoprice HDMI Switch. So far so good.
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post #7720 of 8393
1/7/13 at 7:11pm
I've uploaded a new device and set of feedbacks for DirecTV receivers that will let you query and directly tune pretty much every station in the line up.

I've actually gotten a way I can do this relatively easily.

Here's the question.

What channels should I skip? At least for me in Austin, TX the follow stations are Pay Per View which I've skipped so far:

1. 119-199 - all PPV of some sort
2. 449-499 - also all PPV of some sort from what I can tell

I've only gone up to 800 I think that's the end of most channels except for Music which I'm not sure is worth doing, it's not really very much effort to create things given that I'm uploading templates. The big issue is really the device, it will have a LOT of codes in it and there is no way to categorize them, the feedback I can group pretty easily in iRule builder.

Take a look:

DirecTV Channel Queries v2 - this is the name of the updated device with these codes. I've kept the old stuff I had in for HBO and such for now even though there are duplicates. I'll remove them in a bit. That said we now have a device that will let you query and directly tune to every channel from 1-800 excluding the PPV channel groups I identified earlier smile.gif

The feedbacks are coming along but will take a bit more work, hopefully will finish tonight though. Also for those of you messing with this I have a better way to manage queries, I am validating but assuming it works it will be in the new feedback set as well.
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post #7721 of 8393
1/7/13 at 10:25pm
Hi All

My first post in this thread as whilst reading through I haven't found (or digested!) what I'm after. And that is the basics of determining setup to deploy IRULE as my one stop shop remote!

I am just not getting the communication methods and which is best (or can only be) deployed - IP, IR , RS232 etc. eek.gif
Particularly I dont get that IR seems very popular and refers to being able to use 'behind closed doors' etc but I thought that was "RF" - whereas IR (common in most remotes) has to be line of site? And then if 'emitters/blasters' are required - are these hardwired back to the cache or any device (I'm really adverse to adding any unnecessary cabling where I can help it). And I've not used RS232 but if required do you need one RS232 cache per device (and serial cable in between)?

I have played with the trial IRULE version and had some success with IP configuration of my AV Receiver and HTPC, which has been over my wifi network - but not sure how best to expand and type/model of cache etc. Hoping some of you may be able to set me straight here!

Whilst Ive easily (me thinks!) setup the IP commands and understand basic Irule config, ideally I would like to eventually utilise feedback options where possible (and my knowledge level permits!)

My setup:

Sony HW50ES Projector
Pioneer PDP-507XDA
Darbee Darblett
VAPEX 120" Projector Screen (motorised with RF/RS232 control - no IR?)
Sony PS3 (with Logitech IR/Bluetooth converter)
Yamaha RX-A3000 AV Receiver (already configured via IP but open to better options/allow feedback etc)
HTPC - in particular using WMC and MEDIA BROWSER plugin (configured via IP, comments per A3000 above)
WII (optional, not sure if can be controlled ?)

I know this is a pretty basic configuration than most being discussed here - but appreciate any advice or kickstart to any links or other threads that can get me over my hurdle with initial connectivity!!

Many thanks in advance biggrin.gif
Edited by Projector Lad - 1/8/13 at 3:32am
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post #7722 of 8393
1/8/13 at 3:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Projector Lad View Post

Hi All
My first post in this thread as whilst reading through I haven't found (or digested!) what I'm after. And that is the basics of determining setup to deploy IRULE as my one stop shop remote!
I am just not getting the communication methods and which is best (or can only be) deployed - IP, IR , RS232 etc. eek.gif
Particularly I dont get that IR seems very popular and refers to being able to use 'behind closed doors' etc but I thought that was "RF" - whereas IR (common in most remotes) has to be line of site? And then if 'emitters/blasters' are required - are these hardwired back to the cache or any device (I'm really adverse to adding any unnecessary cabling where I can help it). And I've not used RS232 but if required do you need one RS232 cache per device (and serial cable in between)?
I have played with the trial IRULE version and had some success with IP configuration of my AV Receiver and HTPC, which has been over my wifi network - but not sure how best to expand and type/model of cache etc. Hoping some of you may be able to set me straight here!
Whilst Ive easily (me thinks!) setup the IP commands and understand basic Irule config, ideally I would like to eventually utilise feedback options where possible (and my knowledge level permits!)
My setup:
Sony HW50ES Projector
Pioneer PDP-507XDA
Darbee Darblett
VAPEX 120" Projector Screen (motorised with RF/RS232 control - no IR?)
Sony PS3 (with Logitech IR/Bluetooth converter)
Yamaha RX-A3000 AV Receiver (already configured via IP but open to better options/allow feedback etc)
HTPC - in particular using WMC and MEDIA BROWSER plugin (configured via IP, comments per A3000 above)
WII (optional, not sure if can be controlled ?)
I know this is a pretty basic configuration than most being discussed here - but appreciate any advice or kickstart to any links or other threads that can get me over my hurdle with initial connectivity!!
Many thanks in advance biggrin.gif
i devices such as iPhones, iPads, smart phones, etc. don't communicate using IR. They only communicate through cellular networks and through wifi networks. With iRule (or any other remote app) the iPhone communicates with your home network router via wifi. There needs to be a device attached to your router that can convert the messages that iRule is sending it to IR. This is where the Global Cache iTach/GC comes in. The GC device is connected to your router and becomes a networked device with it's own ip address. It is also known as a gateway. Once your router receives a command from iRule, say, to turn on your TV, the router passes on this information to the GC unit. The GC then converts the command to IR where it is passed on to the TV. The GC units have 3 or 6 ports on the back used for IR. You simply run an IR emitter from the GC to the IR receiving eye on the device you're trying to control. The emitters usually have cords that are about 6 feet long. The emitter itself is self adhesive and can be stuck directly on your components. This is why your devices can be placed behind closed doors.

Edited by mborner - 1/8/13 at 4:05am
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post #7723 of 8393
1/8/13 at 4:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Projector Lad View Post

Hi All
My first post in this thread as whilst reading through I haven't found (or digested!) what I'm after. And that is the basics of determining setup to deploy IRULE as my one stop shop remote!
I am just not getting the communication methods and which is best (or can only be) deployed - IP, IR , RS232 etc. eek.gif
Particularly I dont get that IR seems very popular and refers to being able to use 'behind closed doors' etc but I thought that was "RF" - whereas IR (common in most remotes) has to be line of site? And then if 'emitters/blasters' are required - are these hardwired back to the cache or any device (I'm really adverse to adding any unnecessary cabling where I can help it). And I've not used RS232 but if required do you need one RS232 cache per device (and serial cable in between)?
I have played with the trial IRULE version and had some success with IP configuration of my AV Receiver and HTPC, which has been over my wifi network - but not sure how best to expand and type/model of cache etc. Hoping some of you may be able to set me straight here!
Whilst Ive easily (me thinks!) setup the IP commands and understand basic Irule config, ideally I would like to eventually utilise feedback options where possible (and my knowledge level permits!)
My setup:
Sony HW50ES Projector
Pioneer PDP-507XDA
Darbee Darblett
VAPEX 120" Projector Screen (motorised with RF/RS232 control - no IR?)
Sony PS3 (with Logitech IR/Bluetooth converter)
Yamaha RX-A3000 AV Receiver (already configured via IP but open to better options/allow feedback etc)
HTPC - in particular using WMC and MEDIA BROWSER plugin (configured via IP, comments per A3000 above)
WII (optional, not sure if can be controlled ?)
I know this is a pretty basic configuration than most being discussed here - but appreciate any advice or kickstart to any links or other threads that can get me over my hurdle with initial connectivity!!
Many thanks in advance biggrin.gif
It really depends on your equipment, I'm using IP, and IR with blasters and also wired into the IR ports on the rear of some equipment. You can buy wireless iTachs/global caches or get the IP version and use Airport express or Homeplug ( these work pretty good really) to get your network anywhere you need it. Don't let Emitters/blasters scare you, they are actually very stable
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post #7724 of 8393
1/8/13 at 6:04am
New offering from Global Cache, the Itach Flex:

http://www.globalcache.com/files/marketing/datasheet_itach_flex.pdf

Looks pretty interesting if the pricing is similar to the Itach line. With the size of it, sticking one to the back of a TV would be a snap.
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post #7725 of 8393
1/8/13 at 7:07am
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeldomSeen31 View Post

New offering from Global Cache, the Itach Flex:
http://www.globalcache.com/files/marketing/datasheet_itach_flex.pdf
Looks pretty interesting if the pricing is similar to the Itach line. With the size of it, sticking one to the back of a TV would be a snap.
Wow and after I just spent $500 on iTachs, is anyone else always a late bloomer like me?
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post #7726 of 8393
1/8/13 at 8:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeldomSeen31 View Post

New offering from Global Cache, the Itach Flex:
http://www.globalcache.com/files/marketing/datasheet_itach_flex.pdf
Looks pretty interesting if the pricing is similar to the Itach line. With the size of it, sticking one to the back of a TV would be a snap.
Looks pretty cool but other than size, how does it differ from the standard iTach?
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post #7727 of 8393
1/8/13 at 8:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mborner View Post

Looks pretty cool but other than size, how does it differ from the standard iTach?
Never mind, I just read all the details. Pretty cool!
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post #7728 of 8393
1/8/13 at 10:52am
Can I install iRule on several family members iPhones and iPads (i.e. diffferent Apple IDs ....without additional cost)?
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post #7729 of 8393
1/8/13 at 11:02am
This new iTach flex can serve web pages that provide browser control. If it's easy to find pages for your devices that someone else has already developed, some people would probably opt for free web control instead of buying and then having to configure an extra control app like iRule.
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post #7730 of 8393
1/8/13 at 11:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dabagboy View Post

Can I install iRule on several family members iPhones and iPads (i.e. diffferent Apple IDs ....without additional cost)?

irule is free to download. They do "Sync" by google login, so as long as you use the same Google login, you should be fine and no extra charge (PRO had 5 handset design limit, but I think you can download the same handset more than 5).
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post #7731 of 8393
1/8/13 at 11:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by fight4yu View Post

irule is free to download. They do "Sync" by google login, so as long as you use the same Google login, you should be fine and no extra charge (PRO had 5 handset design limit, but I think you can download the same handset more than 5).

We do NOT have the same google logins, is there another way to "sync" the app? or can the app on the iphones have a different google login than say the Gmail, Google Voice or Google Maps apps?

Also can the app work with an IR transmitter that might plug in to the phone? I've seen these here and there?
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post #7732 of 8393
1/8/13 at 1:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dabagboy View Post

We do NOT have the same google logins, is there another way to "sync" the app? or can the app on the iphones have a different google login than say the Gmail, Google Voice or Google Maps apps?
Also can the app work with an IR transmitter that might plug in to the phone? I've seen these here and there?

The google log in within the app can be different than the phone/tablet's google log in. I do the design work for the apps using the iRule builder so all the devices are tied to my google account. I just type my user name in to the app on my wife's Kindle to get the device on to her tablet.

As far as I know iRule can not take advantage of a plug in IR transmitter like the redeye.
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post #7733 of 8393
1/8/13 at 1:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeldomSeen31 View Post

The google log in within the app can be different than the phone/tablet's google log in. I do the design work for the apps using the iRule builder so all the devices are tied to my google account. I just type my user name in to the app on my wife's Kindle to get the device on to her tablet.
As far as I know iRule can not take advantage of a plug in IR transmitter like the redeye.

When you go to the web-based irulebuilder, it will ask what google account you want to log in, and that basically is your "login" to irule.
In the irule app that you download, there is a setting page, and in there, you can entered whatever google account you setup (not necessarily needs to be the same as your own device), and the handset that you created will then show up and you can download to your device based on the device type.
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post #7734 of 8393
1/8/13 at 4:02pm
Silly question.... does iRule handle the multiple Onkyo remote code easily? By that I mean, each Onkyo AVR has the ability to set the remotes to either (channel) #1, #2, or #3 in case you have multiple remotes in the same room and don't want to have interference between them.

Thanks.
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post #7735 of 8393
1/8/13 at 5:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Killroy View Post

Silly question.... does iRule handle the multiple Onkyo remote code easily? By that I mean, each Onkyo AVR has the ability to set the remotes to either (channel) #1, #2, or #3 in case you have multiple remotes in the same room and don't want to have interference between them.
Thanks.

Hmm. I do not see different IR group for Onkyo receiver in their database. however, if your Onkyo is not too old, it is likely to be IP capable so you will just go by IP address...
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post #7736 of 8393
1/8/13 at 5:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by fight4yu View Post

Hmm. I do not see different IR group for Onkyo receiver in their database. however, if your Onkyo is not too old, it is likely to be IP capable so you will just go by IP address...

That's the problem. They are both older models (TX-SR606 & HT-R670) and both are not IP controllable. I am hoping that there is a secondary IR group somewhere so I can control both via iRule using a single IP2IR. I would hate to have to get two of them just to control them separately.
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post #7737 of 8393
1/8/13 at 6:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Killroy View Post

That's the problem. They are both older models (TX-SR606 & HT-R670) and both are not IP controllable. I am hoping that there is a secondary IR group somewhere so I can control both via iRule using a single IP2IR. I would hate to have to get two of them just to control them separately.

You shouldn't have an issue as long as you use 2 emitters. You may need to cover them with electrical tape if there is interference. In the builder pull in 2 versions of the commands and rename them something appropriate so you remember which is which. Onkyo 1 and onkyo 2 for instance. Then assign the first to port 1 on the itach and 2 to port 2. Then the commands you assign to buttons in the builder will only be sent to the appropriate avr.

Hope that makes sense.
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post #7738 of 8393
1/8/13 at 6:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeldomSeen31 View Post

You shouldn't have an issue as long as you use 2 emitters. You may need to cover them with electrical tape if there is interference. In the builder pull in 2 versions of the commands and rename them something appropriate so you remember which is which. Onkyo 1 and onkyo 2 for instance. Then assign the first to port 1 on the itach and 2 to port 2. Then the commands you assign to buttons in the builder will only be sent to the appropriate avr.
Hope that makes sense.

It does. I did not know that the ports could be so independent of each other. That will probably work perfectly then. Thanks.
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post #7739 of 8393
1/8/13 at 9:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Killroy View Post

It does. I did not know that the ports could be so independent of each other. That will probably work perfectly then. Thanks.

Also, just a heads up, your TX-SR606 has an "ir in," labeled "remote control" on the bottom left when looking at your receiver from behind.

You can simply run a 3.5mm male to male audio cable from one of the itachs 3 outputs straight into the back of the reciever eliminating the chance of at least one device from unintentionally controlling the other.

smile.gif
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post #7740 of 8393
1/9/13 at 12:21am
What do you do if iRule does not support your device?
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