I got the kids a super cheap android tablet on a black friday deal for $49. Some of these tablets, including the ones I got my kids, are not registered with google so have no native access to the playstore. they have their own ways to get apps on them or you can download the apks from various spots on the web (irule has theirs available at their site).
I found a way through the android development community to root these tablets and install the playstore. But, as others mentioned above, these low end tablets tend to have poor resolution, very poor wifi and short batter life. All of which make using them for dedicated remotes less than ideal.
The original Kindle Fire is what I am using as my main remote and it serves me nicely. It has a screen resolution of 1024x600, all day battery life and excellent wifi reception. Available new for $159 it is hard to beat. I rooted it and installed Android Jelly Bean and am very happy with the results. My wife liked the original Kindle interface and uses irule on hers too.
I keep eyeing the $199 Google Nexus 7 and Kindle Fire HD though.
I keep toying with adding some iRule pages to my kids' tablets to see how they go. I already have a headset designed for my HTC Incredible that has the same resolution. 3in phone with the same res as a 7in tablet. You can really see how cheap those tablets are.
I don't think there is any reason to break the bank to get a nice table experience with iRule but going ultra cheap probably isn't the way to go either.
Hi, do you happen to have the Kindle 8.9 version too? I could not find the template, and don't know what resolution to shoot for?
I see where you say that you use MCE Controller. I used to use that and it was a descent program. I would like to say that Event Ghost is MUCH better. I know there is a learning curve, but once you get the hang of it, there is no comparison. Several things that I tried to do with MCE Controller were not possible, but with Event Ghost, EVERYTHING works flawlessly. If you have any desire to learn about Event Ghost, there are a few videos posted on youtube that can assist you in defeating that learning curve.
What exactly do you do with the RokuHD? I use XBMC for my entertainment center. Is it similar but in a hardware format?
I am guessing EventGhost is similar to Girder (if not a clone of Girder). Previous to iRule I had programmed Girder with Net Remote 2 from Promixis using an early Windows tablet. I dropped the Win 8 pre-release on it and it worked great with Net Remote 2. I could get around pretty well in Girder. To me it is a shame that Promixis didn't develop Net Remote for Android and iOS. The market changed under their feet and they missed it. iRule is very similar to Net Remote 2, but has layout and graphic limitations by comparison.
I am content with the simplicity of MCE Control. I have been able to do everything I want to with it. For me it has worked flawlessly. I have re-written the command file to include all the keystrokes I need, as well as launch files and toodle around the OS. I have it emulating a full keyboard. I have added the corresponding codes to the Network Codes in iRule.
The Roku is used for internet streaming; Hulu, Netflix, Revision 3, et..al. The quality is better than my HTPC for streaming. I use the Oppo 103 for watching Blu-ray and ripped mkv files from a Synology server. The image produced by the Oppo is nothing short of stellar; absolutely a great image. The interface, however is nowhere near as nice as XMBC. I guess you might say function over form.
Thanks, that actually helps a lot. I'll probably go for either the Samsung Galaxy Tab 2 or the Google Nexus 7 and skip the ipad mini.
in the realm of android tablets, i would definitely go for the nexus 7. at the same price, there'd be no reason to go with the older, lesser galaxy tab 2. and i found the nexus to be a considerable step up over even the original kindle fire that i had for a year prior to getting the nexus. even with the current $40 premium, nexus wins hands down.
besides battery life, wifi strength, etc., other things to consider when looking at the "nicer" tablets vs. tablets in the <$100 range are things like weight, ergonomics, and digitizer quality. (for anyone who doesn't know what a digitizer is, it's the "touch" part of a touchscreen). coincidentally, those are the same things that made such a noticeable difference to me when going from the fire to the nexus. just less so than when comparing a cheap-o to anything decent. but i digress. anyway... the cheap tablets are often heavier and not as comfortable in the hand leading to increased wrist fatigue if held for very long. and the quality of the digitizer plays a huge role in the overall feel and experience of using a touchscreen. i've had firsthand experience with a lof different devices and the nexus is the first i've used that comes close to apple devices, which i've found to be the best in the business with respect to the digitizer (imho, of course). (also note that that's pretty much the first and last compliment you'll ever hear me give to apple. just to make it clear that i'm not biased towards them in any way, shape, or form).
Perfect! I just need em the size for Non-retina iPad or iPhone display. It's an old set up so I don't want the back and change things. I'll PM you with a email address.
Perfect! I just need em the size for Non-retina iPad or iPhone display. It's an old set up so I don't want the back and change things. I'll PM you with a email address.
Golitzbt,
Or you could share them from the builder and then everyone can have access
I apologize in advance if this is a dumb question. I've read through a lot of the thread and I think I have a good idea how to set up the iRule software and hardware for my basement media room. My equipment is as follows:
Panasonic 65VT50 TV
Oppo BDP 103 BR player
Onkyo TX-NR717 AVR
Xbox 360
Verizon FiOS Motorola STB
I will be using a MoCa adpater to get an ethernet connection to the media cabinet (below the TV mounted on the wall) and an ethernet switch to get hard-wired connections to all of the devices
From what I've read, the Oppo and Onkyo have dedicated IR inputs on the back of the devices, so I can connect cables directly to those. For the TV, Xbox and Motorola STB and it looks like I can use emitters. My question relates to the TV - how do you use an emitter with the TV and have it look "clean"? I haven't mounted the TV yet, but I'm wondering how people use IR emitters or blasters with a TV and have it look clean with no wires showing? If I have the TV connected via ethernet to the router is there any way I can control it that way using iRule? I don't think I can but I figured I'd ask. I'd be disappointed to have a completely clean home theater install but have wires showing for an emitter. Thanks.
Dan - I think you are in luck there are several drivers in the iRule DB for Panasonic network control. Also one tiny emitter is pretty easy to hide if you have to go IR.
Dan - I think you are in luck there are several drivers in the iRule DB for Panasonic network control. Also one tiny emitter is pretty easy to hide if you have to go IR.
Thanks Tom. I am checking out the trial version of the iRule software. I see IR and RS232 codes, but no network codes for Panasonic TV's?
Guys, IP control of Panny TVs probably isn't supported. From my brief research, like Samsung, they didn't support power-on over the network, so not a lot of point in it. From my reading, that may have changed in the latest generation of models. If the Panny TVs are like their BD players though, the IP control requires user-agent spoofing, which iRule isn't supporting yet.
I'm still completely blown away that some manufacturers manage to make IP control so complicated. Hey, Panasonic... See Onkyo, Pioneer, Denon, and Yamaha? This is how you should do it.
DW Boston, the stick-on emitters are pretty unobtrusive. Installers have been using them for years. The IR receivers are usually near the edge of the set, so you can usually stick the emitter one, and stretch the lead tight, and unless the TV is silver, or unless somebody is really looking closely, it isn't even really noticeable. Some sets also have IR inputs on the back of the set that you can connect directly to the iTach, though I don't think your set has one. You may also be able to use a blaster, depending on where the set is relative to your other equipment.
I just bought a WDTV Live and after some fighting, was able to get the ENET based control working using the IRULE IP Control device. As the description states, use port 80 and the POST method under a HTTP gateway not a NETWORK gateway like what is used for the Denon CI AVRs.
Guys, IP control of Panny TVs probably isn't supported. From my brief research, like Samsung, they didn't support power-on over the network, so not a lot of point in it. From my reading, that may have changed in the latest generation of models. If the Panny TVs are like their BD players though, the IP control requires user-agent spoofing, which iRule isn't supporting yet.
I'm still completely blown away that some manufacturers manage to make IP control so complicated. Hey, Panasonic... See Onkyo, Pioneer, Denon, and Yamaha? This is how you should do it.
DW Boston, the stick-on emitters are pretty unobtrusive. Installers have been using them for years. The IR receivers are usually near the edge of the set, so you can usually stick the emitter one, and stretch the lead tight, and unless the TV is silver, or unless somebody is really looking closely, it isn't even really noticeable. Some sets also have IR inputs on the back of the set that you can connect directly to the iTach, though I don't think your set has one. You may also be able to use a blaster, depending on where the set is relative to your other equipment.
SC
Thanks. From the link below it sounds like there could potentially be an update at some point that enables IP control, but we'll see. My issue is that the TV will be mounted directly above a built in cabinet - all cables have already been run through the wall and the wall is closed up. I think I've got everything in the cabinet covered using either an IR cable or emitter. I've got ethernet and HDMI cables already in the wall going to the TV. I guess I should just get an IR emitter cable run through the wall before the basement is done. I guess the next question is: iTach IP2IR or GC-100-6?
Quote:
Originally Posted by obie_fl
Ah yea didn't realize the Pany had RS232. In any case here is a thread that basically says what ecrabb just posted.
Ah yea didn't realize the Pany had RS232. In any case here is a thread that basically says what ecrabb just posted.
My Pana doesn't have RS232. I did see network codes on someones upload device, but couldn't figure out what gateway parameters to use (Port, method, etc.) anyone have an idea? `
Thanks. From the link below it sounds like there could potentially be an update at some point that enables IP control, but we'll see. My issue is that the TV will be mounted directly above a built in cabinet - all cables have already been run through the wall and the wall is closed up. I think I've got everything in the cabinet covered using either an IR cable or emitter. I've got ethernet and HDMI cables already in the wall going to the TV. I guess I should just get an IR emitter cable run through the wall before the basement is done. I guess the next question is: iTach IP2IR or GC-100-6?
Thanks!
I chose the IP2IR over the GC-100-6. Cannot remember the compelling reason but there was something so I will look again. I will say that you can "cheat" and wire together more than one IR emitter to each of the three ports. Just don't put the same brand of device on the same port. I'm running two Pany HDTVs, a Samsung BD, WD Live, JVC projector, Denon 3805, two comcast cable boxes all off one IP2IR. Plus a Denon 3312CI and Musica system under ENET control. I am currently switching the Pany's to enet control as well but it all works with IR just fine. Enet is just a cleaner solution.
I chose the IP2IR over the GC-100-6. Cannot remember the compelling reason but there was something so I will look again. I will say that you can "cheat" and wire together more than one IR emitter to each of the three ports. Just don't put the same brand of device on the same port. I'm running two Pany HDTVs, a Samsung BD, WD Live, JVC projector, Denon 3805, two comcast cable boxes all off one IP2IR. Plus a Denon 3312CI and Musica system under ENET control. I am currently switching the Pany's to enet control as well but it all works with IR just fine. Enet is just a cleaner solution.
I've got 1 port with a dual head emitter and the other two ports with a mono 1/8 plug splitter (basically a solid "Y" cable) running a single emitter off those. I'm sure you could add more, I just don't know how many you can before the voltage drop is so great that they are no longer emitting.
With one of port 3's single emitters, I have the other "Y" going in to my Onkyo's IR port (to combine it's signal with that of a repeater so my wife can use the IR remote while I use the tablet) daisy chaining off that to an HK AVR and will eventually daisy chain from there to a JVC VCR I have waiting around to be connected. There are many ways to control bunches of devices with one IP2IR!
Guys can I ask for some channel icon help again. I need them on the black square buttons or just the transparent image of the channels and i can make them. I hope you guys can help out. i just can't find them in the builder.
I've got 1 port with a dual head emitter and the other two ports with a mono 1/8 plug splitter (basically a solid "Y" cable) running a single emitter off those. I'm sure you could add more, I just don't know how many you can before the voltage drop is so great that they are no longer emitting.
With one of port 3's single emitters, I have the other "Y" going in to my Onkyo's IR port (to combine it's signal with that of a repeater so my wife can use the IR remote while I use the tablet) daisy chaining off that to an HK AVR and will eventually daisy chain from there to a JVC VCR I have waiting around to be connected. There are many ways to control bunches of devices with one IP2IR!
I chose the IP2IR over the GC-100-6. Cannot remember the compelling reason but there was something so I will look again.
I'm not an iRule user yet (waiting for my new condo to get finished), but I'm going with the IP2IR device as the GC devices support only one iRule connection at a time.
I'm not an iRule user yet (waiting for my new condo to get finished), but I'm going with the IP2IR device as the GC devices support only one iRule connection at a time.
I went ahead and ordered the IP2IR. Thanks to everyone for the help. I also bought the iRule software and started building my remote panels for my new Nexus 7. There's definitely a learning curve, but the tutorials on the iRule website do help.
Does anybody have the Global Cachè codes (IR) for hibernate and wakeup Zotac mini-pc AD-10?
Those are the two upper keys of it's remote control.
Regards
Marcos
I've mentioned that I use Fing to find devices on my home network, including IP and MAC addresses. I forgot to mention that if a device has a web interface Fing will find that too. Touch the entry for the device, and it will come up with a page for that device where you can give it a name, employ wake on lan, etc. One of the items on that page is Scan Services. Touch that item and it opens a new page and scans for services. Often you'll find an entry marked 80 and HTTP Service. Touch that item and Fing will open the item's browser page. This way, you can find a Global Cache device (self-identified on my network as Microchip Technology) and open up its configuration page. If you have an Integra pre-pro it will open a page where you can see the names of the folks who designed it and test commands. A very useful free app.