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iRule - Page 316

post #9451 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by ekkoville View Post

So it must be in the properties window in the bottom left? I seem to miss things there. Thanks, I'll have a look.

Once you click on your panel it appears as a property in the bottom left. The default option is No so you change it to Yes.
post #9452 of 9744
Is anyone controlling a Tivo Mini via IP? Does it work like the main Tivo box and uses port 31339? I have enabled the Tivo Mini to be controlled over the network but cannot connect using port 31339 using iRule on an Android device. The Android Tivo app will not connect to the Tivo Mini but the IOS Tivo app will. If you are able to control Tivo MIni with iRule, let me know if you are doing it on an IOS or Android device... Thanks...
post #9453 of 9744
Brand new to iRule but not to AVS. So glad I found this forum. I'm sure to have several questions to get off the ground so I'm going to turn to this community as a resource.

I have the Pro license and so far I have built an iPhone 5 handset... See attached and offer comments please. I may have been too ambitious in the button layout for the first page. Those with iPhone 5 & iRule experience... will this layout be way too cluttered and difficult to use in reality? I'm coming from a Harmony and these button locations are similar to what I'm currently used to.

Anyway, my first few questions:

1) I will need to extend my blaster and emitters from my Global Cache iTach IP2IR. The blaster will need to be extended about 12' and one of the emitters will need to be extended about 30'. How can I extend these?

2) I have only two rooms where I want to use iRule. One is the main Family Room with all my various components that will be controlled with the blaster. Only my DirecTV DVR will be controlled via IP. Two is my Master Bedroom where I will control the TV via IR emitter and the DirecTV DVR via IP. So far, I'm just not able to grasp the "Room" concept'. Do I create two different handsets for each room? Based on your experience what would be the simplest way to set up a two room configuration?

That's all for now. Tonight I will add devices to the iTach config for IR blaster and start testing things out.



post #9454 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by carillon View Post

Brand new to iRule but not to AVS. So glad I found this forum. I'm sure to have several questions to get off the ground so I'm going to turn to this community as a resource.

I have the Pro license and so far I have built an iPhone 5 handset... See attached and offer comments please. I may have been too ambitious in the button layout for the first page. Those with iPhone 5 & iRule experience... will this layout be way too cluttered and difficult to use in reality? I'm coming from a Harmony and these button locations are similar to what I'm currently used to.

Anyway, my first few questions:

1) I will need to extend my blaster and emitters from my Global Cache iTach IP2IR. The blaster will need to be extended about 12' and one of the emitters will need to be extended about 30'. How can I extend these?

2) I have only two rooms where I want to use iRule. One is the main Family Room with all my various components that will be controlled with the blaster. Only my DirecTV DVR will be controlled via IP. Two is my Master Bedroom where I will control the TV via IR emitter and the DirecTV DVR via IP. So far, I'm just not able to grasp the "Room" concept'. Do I create two different handsets for each room? Based on your experience what would be the simplest way to set up a two room configuration?

That's all for now. Tonight I will add devices to the iTach config for IR blaster and start testing things out.

It does look a bit tight at the navigation pad. I'd move the three volume related buttons to the drawer, which the default for that is on the right. You can use the smaller Stop and Pause buttons to replace the one larger pause, or you can make the Play button do a Play / Pause toggle on the same button. You can also remove the channel buttons and make a gesture instead. I have channel up and down as a single finger swipe up and down across the screen, but I have retained the CH+/- buttons since my Androids have more room.

To extend the emitters you simply need some mono male to female 3.5mm (1/4") extension cables or you cut one of the cable in half and splice in something between them (such as CAT5). It is probably easier just to go to Monoprice or Amazon and order some pre-made extension cables.

Yes, one way is to create two different handsets if the devices are staying in the respective rooms. Otherwise you create a Home panel that asks which room you are in, you can even add a typical looking picture for each room. On that page you create a "Link" to the panel needed and touching Family room sends you to the Family room controlled panel and can execute the turning on of your equipment.

Here is my primary Nexus 5 panel:


Here are the three drawers opened:

Edited by bryansj - 1/27/14 at 11:54am
post #9455 of 9744
Looks good. Have you considered using the WF2IR? I got a bit lazy on my last setup, and instead of running wires, I ended just buying the WF2IR for my living room and bedroom. In both cases, it was mainly for my older TV and lights neither of which had IP controls.
post #9456 of 9744
You would also only need 1 handset. Have a home panel with the 2 listed rooms as links on it. I have 4 areas in my home controlled by irule and the home page has a button for living room, theater, kitchen and family room. Those buttons link to a main page for each room defaulting to the directv panel for each and I have a drawer similar to that shown by briansj above for each activity available in each room.
post #9457 of 9744
See my responses embedded below in bold... Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by bryansj View Post

It does look a bit tight at the navigation pad. I'd move the three volume related buttons to the drawer, which the default for that is on the right. You can use the smaller Stop and Pause buttons to replace the one larger pause, or you can make the Play button do a Play / Pause toggle on the same button. You can also remove the channel buttons and make a gesture instead. I have channel up and down as a single finger swipe up and down across the screen, but I have retained the CH+/- buttons since my Androids have more room.

I'm interested in the "Play/Pause" possibility. Tell me a little more about how to implement that. Gestures are another feature I'm interested in... most likely a second revision of my iPhone 5 handset. I can see how that would save some button use and help un-clutter the first page.

To extend the emitters you simply need some mono male to female 3.5mm (1/4") extension cables or you cut one of the cable in half and splice in something between them (such as CAT5). It is probably easier just to go to Monoprice or Amazon and order some pre-made extension cables.

Thanks, I'll check with Amazon and see how pricey they are. I may just try my hand at splicing with CAT5. Should I just use one of the twisted pairs or all?

Yes, one way is to create two different handsets if the devices are staying in the respective rooms. Otherwise you create a Home panel that asks which room you are in, you can even add a typical looking picture for each room. On that page you create a "Link" to the panel needed and touching Family room sends you to the Family room controlled panel and can execute the turning on of your equipment.

I like the idea of a Home panel that asks what room I'd like to control. Can you tell me a little more about how to create Links from each room button?
post #9458 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by isisyodin View Post

Looks good. Have you considered using the WF2IR? I got a bit lazy on my last setup, and instead of running wires, I ended just buying the WF2IR for my living room and bedroom. In both cases, it was mainly for my older TV and lights neither of which had IP controls.

I did consider the WiFi Flex device; however, since I don't mind running cables for the emitters and blaster, I'd rather have the speed of the wired connection as opposed to wireless. I probably would have never noticed the difference but I would always wonder lol!
post #9459 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeldomSeen31 View Post

You would also only need 1 handset. Have a home panel with the 2 listed rooms as links on it. I have 4 areas in my home controlled by irule and the home page has a button for living room, theater, kitchen and family room. Those buttons link to a main page for each room defaulting to the directv panel for each and I have a drawer similar to that shown by briansj above for each activity available in each room.

Sounds like the direction I need to go... just going to have to learn how to do "links". Thanks!
post #9460 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by carillon View Post

Sounds like the direction I need to go... just going to have to learn how to do "links". Thanks!

Right click and existing button and select "convert to link" from the options, or when dropping a button the first time hold control+L while you're dragging it in to place.

Then when selected in the builder you define in the lower left window where you want the link to navigate to, defining both panel and page name values.

See the builder tutorials for some more details.
post #9461 of 9744
I've used cat5 to extend emitters in my home. You just need 1 set of twisted pairs. inside the emitter is 2 wires, one inside the main sheath and another sheathed in red inside that. Strip them and solder or twist and tape them to the cat5 and you're good to go, I've heard of 300' runs this way but in my house I've got about a 75' run that works like a charm.
post #9462 of 9744
For my emitter extensions I've fished CAT5e through my walls and terminated them with Ethernet keystone jacks. This is for regular LAN networking purposes, but can be used for anything. With Ethernet on each you can take an Ethernet patch cable and cut it in half. Then you splice in your emitter and 3.5mm jack. In my case I simply when to Radio Shack and bought 3.5mm female solder type jacks and put on each half of the cable. Then I plug in a regular 3.5mm male male into the IR port end and the IR emitter into the other end. Clean install and is reversible back to networking use.
post #9463 of 9744
My iRule has been up and running for awhile, however it occurred to me that by having itach on the network that it'd be great to be able to invoke it from something other than iRule or android/iDevices. I'm thinking more along the lines of scripting and home automation. Anyone talking to these gateways in other ways?
post #9464 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeldomSeen31 View Post

I've used cat5 to extend emitters in my home. You just need 1 set of twisted pairs. inside the emitter is 2 wires, one inside the main sheath and another sheathed in red inside that. Strip them and solder or twist and tape them to the cat5 and you're good to go, I've heard of 300' runs this way but in my house I've got about a 75' run that works like a charm.

Good info... I wasn't sure what was inside the emitter wire. I'll probably just go with CAT5 and use 2 of the 8 wires.
post #9465 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeldomSeen31 View Post

Right click and existing button and select "convert to link" from the options, or when dropping a button the first time hold control+L while you're dragging it in to place.

Then when selected in the builder you define in the lower left window where you want the link to navigate to, defining both panel and page name values.

See the builder tutorials for some more details.

Great, I will try this tonight... Thanks!
post #9466 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by eelton View Post

Here's my list of Android issues that I posted on the iRule website (I didn't include the gateway issue you refer to, but I've had that as well):


1) Buttons placed using the full resolution grid end up across the screen from where they should be. It's worse with some devices than others.

2) With the standard resolution screen, there can be slight variations from the expected WYSIWYG behavior. I've mostly noticed this with cursor icons I've made and placed as background images--they end up a bit off on the final page, and so don't line up with buttons on the foreground layer. I'm probably asking for trouble making my own custom buttons, but it should work.

3) The sound on keypress works intermittently. Once it stops working, I have to restart the app to get it going again.

4) My buttons sometimes become nonresponsive--sometimes for a press or two, and sometimes indefinitely (at least 10 tries at pressing a key). When it's the indefinite pattern, I have to go to another page and then return, at which point it starts working again.

5) The native Android back button works some of the time and not others in iRule. It seems random, and perhaps device dependent-i.e., the same back sequence works on one device but then not another.

6) Gestures don't work for me on my Nexus 7. The tap gestures don't work at all, and the swipe gestures are unreliable, particularly the two-finger type.

7) Intermittent crashes on pressing the "sync" button.

8) Lag on swiping from one screen to another. I don't think this is my device, which responds quickly to inputs in other apps.

9) Hold on press doesn't work well (volume control, dimming lights, etc.)




Have you tried TouchSquid? Works great.
post #9467 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by carillon View Post

Brand new to iRule but not to AVS. So glad I found this forum. I'm sure to have several questions to get off the ground so I'm going to turn to this community as a resource.

I have the Pro license and so far I have built an iPhone 5 handset... See attached and offer comments please. I may have been too ambitious in the button layout for the first page. Those with iPhone 5 & iRule experience... will this layout be way too cluttered and difficult to use in reality? I'm coming from a Harmony and these button locations are similar to what I'm currently used to.

Not sure why everyone puts their navigation buttons above the play, pause, etc buttons. I use my navigation butttons about 100X more then the play/pause buttons.
I prefer the nav buttons on the bottom as its easier to reach the way I hold my phone. Beyond that maybe you can add a few of those buttons to a drawer to clear some clutter.
Looks good though.

I extended my IR with cat5 as I have a ton on hand but you could just grab some 3.5mm mono extension cables.
post #9468 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by impmonkey View Post

Not sure why everyone puts their navigation buttons above the play, pause, etc buttons. I use my navigation butttons about 100X more then the play/pause buttons.
I prefer the nav buttons on the bottom as its easier to reach the way I hold my phone. Beyond that maybe you can add a few of those buttons to a drawer to clear some clutter.
Looks good though.

I extended my IR with cat5 as I have a ton on hand but you could just grab some 3.5mm mono extension cables.

I chose to locate the navigation buttons above the play/pause buttons because that's the way it is on my Harmony and what my wife and I are used to. You're right, I probably use the navigation buttons much more often as well. I'm planning on using the left and right drawers but the bottom drawer probably not since iOS 7 uses that same area to pull a menu up from the bottom. I have access to cat5 cable so that's how I'm going to proceed.

Thanks for the reply.
post #9469 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeldomSeen31 View Post

You would also only need 1 handset. Have a home panel with the 2 listed rooms as links on it. I have 4 areas in my home controlled by irule and the home page has a button for living room, theater, kitchen and family room. Those buttons link to a main page for each room defaulting to the directv panel for each and I have a drawer similar to that shown by briansj above for each activity available in each room.

Okay, I started working on this tonight. There was already a panel called "Main" which is now the "Home" panel. So I added buttons to represent the activities I wanted to control in each room. Is this what you suggested? (See Attached) If so, how do I have iRule default to this page each time it's launched? I also need to know the best way to turn off all devices independently in each room. Is that another link button on the main page I need to add? Thanks

post #9470 of 9744
You mark both the Panel and Page as Home = Yes in the properties.

I would have made the Main home page have two buttons, one for each room. Clicking the room dumps you on the page to select what you want to do, similar to what you posted. In my case I would have it dump me straight into my TV page and perform all the commands to turn on my TV to WMC and then my other "activities" are in the left drawer. I'd keep it simple. Your first screen is too busy IMO, but then you have to balance how many pages to dig through before your system does what you need.
post #9471 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by impmonkey View Post

Not sure why everyone puts their navigation buttons above the play, pause, etc buttons. I use my navigation butttons about 100X more then the play/pause buttons.
I prefer the nav buttons on the bottom as its easier to reach the way I hold my phone. Beyond that maybe you can add a few of those buttons to a drawer to clear some clutter.
Looks good though.

I extended my IR with cat5 as I have a ton on hand but you could just grab some 3.5mm mono extension cables.

Because that is how the initial template locates it. In my case I'm one-handing my phone and my thumb wants to be near the upper part of the screen where the pad is by default. Moving it down will cause me to bend my thumb down. Most of the time I'm using my 7" tablet which is in landscape mode.
post #9472 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by bryansj View Post

You mark both the Panel and Page as Home = Yes in the properties.

I would have made the Main home page have two buttons, one for each room. Clicking the room dumps you on the page to select what you want to do, similar to what you posted. In my case I would have it dump me straight into my TV page and perform all the commands to turn on my TV to WMC and then my other "activities" are in the left drawer. I'd keep it simple. Your first screen is too busy IMO, but then you have to balance how many pages to dig through before your system does what you need.

Thanks for the reply... it really helps to hear from experienced users. I'll try and redo things a bit tomorrow and see what I can come up with based on your suggestions.
post #9473 of 9744
I saw this product from Z-Wave: http://store.homeseer.com/store/x-P407.aspx

I was thinking it would be nice if they had something similar for Insteon. For my pool control, I am planning on replacing the Double Pole Single Throw mechanical switch that controls my pool equipment with a SwitchLinc Switch and an Omron G7L-2A-BUBJ-CB AC100/120 General Purpose Relay With Test Button, Double Pole Single Throw Normally Open Contacts:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T73ZOW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3I0MHOAGJJCMP&coliid=I7WTJEPXKDSSK

Both the switch and relay will fit inside the plastic enclosure containing the mechanical switch, but it would be nice to have something a little more professional, I guess.

I know this is not really the best place to post this, but perhaps it is time to start an Official Insteon thread?

Mark
post #9474 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by giomania View Post

I saw this product from Z-Wave: http://store.homeseer.com/store/x-P407.aspx

I was thinking it would be nice if they had something similar for Insteon. For my pool control, I am planning on replacing the Double Pole Single Throw mechanical switch that controls my pool equipment with a SwitchLinc Switch and an Omron G7L-2A-BUBJ-CB AC100/120 General Purpose Relay With Test Button, Double Pole Single Throw Normally Open Contacts:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T73ZOW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3I0MHOAGJJCMP&coliid=I7WTJEPXKDSSK

Both the switch and relay will fit inside the plastic enclosure containing the mechanical switch, but it would be nice to have something a little more professional, I guess.

I know this is not really the best place to post this, but perhaps it is time to start an Official Insteon thread?

Mark

I've been thinking about replacing the $1000 circuit board (that controls my pool equipment) that keeps blowing with a Smartenit EZIO8SA INSTEON-Compatible Input/Output Controller: http://www.smarthome.com/31273/Smartenit-EZIO8SA-INSTEON-Compatible-Input-Output-Controller/p.aspx
Would then let the ISY be the timer, etc.... Have not thought through completely how it would all work. Been using the Smartenit Sprinkler Controller for a few years to control my sprinkler system and works great...
post #9475 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Balentine View Post

I've been thinking about replacing the $1000 circuit board (that controls my pool equipment) that keeps blowing with a Smartenit EZIO8SA INSTEON-Compatible Input/Output Controller: http://www.smarthome.com/31273/Smartenit-EZIO8SA-INSTEON-Compatible-Input-Output-Controller/p.aspx
Would then let the ISY be the timer, etc.... Have not thought through completely how it would all work. Been using the Smartenit Sprinkler Controller for a few years to control my sprinkler system and works great...

Thanks Doug.

I started using an EtherRain8 irrigation controller last spring; it worked well. Now that I am into Insteon, I thought about the Smartenit Sprinkler Controller , but the EtherRain works fine so far. Regarding the Smartenit EZIO8SA INSTEON-Compatible Input/Output Controller, that would not work for my setup, as it looks like that device is only 3A. My current DPST switch (Tork Model 1103) has a 40A (20A Inductive) load rating.

Mark
post #9476 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by scubasteve2365 View Post

My iRule has been up and running for awhile, however it occurred to me that by having itach on the network that it'd be great to be able to invoke it from something other than iRule or android/iDevices. I'm thinking more along the lines of scripting and home automation. Anyone talking to these gateways in other ways?

I have my temperature monitor ( http://www.smarthome.com/87273/Middle-Atlantic-Products-TEMP-DEC-Decorator-Style-Mount-Temperature-Display/p.aspx ) plugged into one of the ports of the GC-100 and have a script that runs to turn-on the floor standing A/C unit in my Media Room closet and then turns off 15 minutes later after the temperature drops below the "its too hot" threshold.

Using this to connect the temp monitor contacts to the GC-100: http://www.smarthome.com/8125/Contact-Closure-Sensor/p.aspx

Using HCA (hcatech.com) to do this automation script for me now...
post #9477 of 9744
I would like to upgrade from a harmony 1000 +RF blaster system. I currently have a xantech distribution system as well that I can hook into to increase # of blasters:

http://www.smarthome.com/81221K/Xantech-DL85K-Plasma-LCD-LED-CFL-Proof-Designer-Dinky-Link-IR-Receiver-Kit/p.aspx

The equipment I have to control is:

Optoma HD33CA Projector
UMC-200 pre-amp
HTPC with MCE receiver
MED600X3D media player
Bell Expressvu Sat. receiver 9242
Possibly a samsung bluray player BD-D6500 (I might move it upstairs though)

I also have a ps4 and eventualy a xbox one, but I don't think they can or need to be controlled.

Eventually I would also like to be able to power on and off:
1 Butt Kicker Amp
2 EP2500 Sub Amps
1 Samson S-1000 Aub Amp

Room to expand if I add other equipment would be a bonus.

All equipment is located in a rack. Along with my server, router and hub/switch.

I'm looking for opinions on what the best gateway for me to buy is.
post #9478 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by shepP View Post

I would like to upgrade from a harmony 1000 +RF blaster system. I currently have a xantech distribution system as well that I can hook into to increase # of blasters:

http://www.smarthome.com/81221K/Xantech-DL85K-Plasma-LCD-LED-CFL-Proof-Designer-Dinky-Link-IR-Receiver-Kit/p.aspx

The equipment I have to control is:

Optoma HD33CA Projector
UMC-200 pre-amp
HTPC with MCE receiver
MED600X3D media player
Bell Expressvu Sat. receiver 9242
Possibly a samsung bluray player BD-D6500 (I might move it upstairs though)

I also have a ps4 and eventualy a xbox one, but I don't think they can or need to be controlled.

Eventually I would also like to be able to power on and off:
1 Butt Kicker Amp
2 EP2500 Sub Amps
1 Samson S-1000 Aub Amp

Room to expand if I add other equipment would be a bonus.

All equipment is located in a rack. Along with my server, router and hub/switch.

I'm looking for opinions on what the best gateway for me to buy is.

Global Cache IP2IR iTach (not the Flex version).
post #9479 of 9744
Thanks! Do I need anything special to interface with the xantech? I'm guessing I should pick up some double blasters as well?
post #9480 of 9744
Quote:
Originally Posted by shepP View Post

Thanks! Do I need anything special to interface with the xantech? I'm guessing I should pick up some double blasters as well?

It has 3.5mm IR ports. If your xantech has a 3.5mm IR in then all you need is a 3.5mm Male Male cable.
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