New home AV distribution plan - Page 2

That's all wrong. HDBaseT does Ethernet, IR, and HDMI over ONE CAT cable. Four isn't a bad idea to super future-proof, but in reality, the only thing that uses CAT cable is ethernet. Whole home video is ultimately better done with MCE, DirecTV whole-home DVR, ATSC modulators, or some combination thereof. Two RG-6's and two CAT-6's should be an ABSOLUTE minimum per location.

Subs can be either way, I think most mid to high-end ones are powered, the one we have on a $300 Onkyo system is not powered, so it can go either way.

That's a tricky house since so much is open, you have to be careful to get a CAT/RG outlet on any wall where electronics might be located...

Keep in mind HDBaseT 'can' do HDMI, 10/100, RS232, IR ( send or receive), PoE etc but not all devices support all of the features!

Joe

My experience with DHMI extenders has shown me that the type that use 2 Cat 5 cables work much better than the ones that use one Cat 6 cable. Cat 6 cable has longer runs for 2 of the inner wires causing some disturbance in the quality of signals over the wire, buyers beware....

Until the arrival of the HDBaseT chip set single wire solutions were a bit of a lottery - no matter if you were using CAT5 or CAT6.

HDBaseT is a different proposition and will , with the kit I've used, run over CAT5, CAT6 and even CAT7 and is very reliable.

HDBaseT will often work were even the most reliable dual cable solutions have failed!

Joe

Yep, HDBaseT could very much change the game in HDMI distribution. I'm hoping we'll see integrated matrix switches at CEDIA using it, and really want to see the prices come down, since it opens up A/V distribution to a lot of folks (because of the integrated single-cat5 solution).

But you should wire the house for flexibility. While I agree with canuck that 7 catX wires would be extremely flexible, that may be excessive for a whole house. I think 3 catX per display location is a good minimum, 4 is better. 4-6 for primary location(s) to allow return video capability.

And of course, flex conduit is the only truly future-proof (well, at least, best we can do) solution...

Jeff

This question is not easy to answer as building code is different from state to state. However, where I live (Quebec, Canada), this would be ok. Yes you can put AC & Low voltage in the same "cavity". I have never heard of any code banning you from doing that.

I suggest you speak with a pro, if a pro will be involved eventually. He can look over your plan and spot any pitfalls that may cause trouble for him specifically.

IP Cameras are still pretty pricey. You may want to cable for both CCTV and IP cameras, switching to IP in 5-10 years.

One rack may not cut it, for distributed AV, cameras, media room - depends on what you envision for the future. Are you the type to use UPSs, 'power conditioners', and dedicated Class A/B amps?

I may have missed it, but is an alarm spec'd? I know you mentioned cameras. What about automated lighting? UPB is one of the more affordable platforms for lighting (need a neutral in every light switch box, item for the electrician to address).

What about in-wall trouchscreens/tablets? Category cable to possible locations.

Flood sensors (wired with 22/4) are often a part of the alarm system (broken water heater, overflowing laundry room sink, broken washing machine/dishwasher, broken under-sink water filter).

Since nobody else has linked it yet, here is the cocoontech.com Wiring Your New Home 101 Wiki link. Cocoontech forums are a good resource for enclosures, racks, and other unusual stuff. I have a feeling that you could share some tips with the community there, with the experience you describe.

Install conduit empty; it's for future cable pulls. The pre-wire cables should be installed outside of the conduit.

You're probably aware that you shouldn't staple category cables, but they need to be secured somehow, 'cause of the spray foam.

Alarm keypads are usually wired with 22/4 and/or ethernet cable. Some people install small speakers at/near the alarm KPs (18/2).

Carbon monoxide detectors, LV smokes, thermostats, WAPs, phone, doorbell (need to detect a button push), front door intercom/video/access control, irrigation system, exterior (and interior) motion detectors, landscape/security exterior lighting (and control), temperature sensors, humidity sensors (for bathroom fan, on timer is easiest but humidity sensor is optimal), roof antenna(s), satellite dish, and whole-house surge protector at service entrance are other items to consider.

1. There are adapters for the two ends that combine the HDMI, 100mbps, and IR together.

2. This whole HDBaseT thing is obsolete before it got it's feet off the ground. There's the whole home DVR systems from DirecTV, Microsoft and others, and, for box-less TV setups, ATSC modulators becoming available, which goes to a 1-wire coax system. From a looks perspective, however, using the small DirecTV receivers that can feed off of the DVRs is a great option, as they can hide out behind the TV's.

I just saw that Backboxx product for the first time yesterday, in the Home Theater subforum in hehateme's build thread.

It looks like a great concept. Is it installed before or after the spray foam? Website says it's great for blown insulation - not sure about sprayfoam. You may need to cut/sculpt the hardened foam to install them.

Conduit allows for easy retrofit of cables, for when you will need a new cable in the future. Not much advantage during prewire. Adds a significant cost. Adding a cable to a conduit that already has cable can be a bear.

I suggest you only use conduit at the video locations where you will be using an HDMI cable that needs replacing. I can't think of any other locations where you would need to replace a cable.

There are tricks to securing LV cables in locations that will get spray foam insulation, conduit isn't necessary.

Maybe for those locations where you feel the need to provide upper and lower boxes you could install a short length of conduit between the upper and lower locations.

Relevant thread at cocoontech, 'Prewire with Spray Foam Insulation'.

http://www.cocoontech.com/forums/ind...howtopic=17083

Several Texans comment, including a builder (Ranger Digital).

Edit- cocoontech member Lou Apo is in Austin, and used spray foam. Did his homework.

Can you explain a bit more about this piece of your suggested cable complement? I understand that you're saying that with a mix of display capabilities in a distribution system, the audio sent to all displays will probably end up being a least common denominator stereo signal. What would you use the extra UTP cable for to remedy this?

No, flex conduit would move. It is affixed to the studs with conduit/pipe clamps/straps, available in metal/steel or PVC, but you could prob use perforated strapping as an alternative (like used for HVAC ducts).



One hole conduit clamp



Two hole conduit clamp



Perforated strap



Local electric supply houses/distributors are good sources of conduit and fittings, cheap - no shipping, and easy returns of unused. Also, helpful for tips/pointers.

I've read of some people using rigid conduit - the gray conduit - NMT - for LV. I've also read of some people using white schedule 40 PVC. Cheaper than the flexible.

Someone said the gray is easy to bed, with heat. Make sure your bends are gentle sweeps.

Blue flex conduit is rated for line voltage (110V), the orange for low voltage. Many people use the blue for LV, e.g. home theaters. Your inspector may cringe if he sees a lot of blue flex conduit, as it can be used for line voltage.

I don't know when your inspections will occur, before LV or after, but might be worthwhile to discuss the use of conduit with the AHJ. My AHJ was very helpful when I retrofitted orange LV conduit in my home.

Depending on the conduit diameters, 2 conduits side by side may be too close to drywall - will get nailed/screwed with the drywall, or hanging a picture in 5 years.

If you have to run your own conduit, talk to the spray foam guys first. They probably know of a best way.

IMO, this project has the potential to become a never-ending can of worms. If you don't want to hire a contractor to design, install, setup and service the system(s), then I would suggest, at a minimum, paying for a system design from a contractor on a consultant basis. It may cost a few hundred dollars for their design, but it would be a wise investment down the road. If you're talking about HDMI switching/ matrices and at the same time trying to figure out what type of mudring/ low-voltage box to use in the same breath, you're begging for problems.

What are you looking at in terms of control? URC? RTI? And how do you plan to control the wii if its in a rack (Wii doesn't have IR)

Hey Justmike, that is the correct usage for that wire.

Hi,

Thanks, but what I was getting at is: what exactly would you do with it? Run a separate multichannel digital audio signal over it somehow? How?

Yep. Lots of anything-over-cat5 baluns available - see MuxLab's website. Pull a separate 5.1 digital audio stream from the source, or through the matrix if it supports it, for example...

Jeff