Speaker Shootout!! - Page 6

Of course that's good enough! Just measure that angle. Thx MK

Sorry, I know the "what", but not the "how" in this case. I've never taken any serious near field measurements, just rough ones with the default measurement time-windows. I'm sure someone from the DIY / speaker building section could give the details you need.

sohcahtoa... that's all i remember ! You got a protractor

I was browsing around regarding gated measurements. I thought this post was pretty informative http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...tml#post178442

I don't quite get the question, but maybe this helps:

http://www.handymath.com/cgi-bin/irregangle8.cgi

Oh, read the earlier post - if I understand it correctly, the angle would be 26.57 degrees off axis to the L and R seats. Try punching in the numbers and see if you get the same (I used side A = 6, side C = 12, angle B = 90, and looked at the value of angle A as the result).

A triangle with one leg 12' and the other leg 6' is 26.6 degrees.

MK,

What are you using for measurement equipment? What type of measurements are you taking? What are you using for test signals?

Determining where the off axis response starts to turn ugly and how it turns ugly will determine the type of acoustic treatments (if any) will be beneficial in your room, as well as ensuring a good direct response at all seats.

Great - send all the speakers to me at the following address...

Seriously, though, that link provide at HT Shack is a good one. Also, be absolutely sure that the other speakers are well out of the way (out of the room preferably) when you measure, and that when measuring said speakers they are placed in the exact same spot. Again, measure only one at a time. I haven't measured using gated times, so I can't comment on that.

As far as the angle, I don't think anyone is going to twist your arm to get it perfect. As long as you measure using the same angle and method(s) you'll be fine. Just be sure to not move the mic at all when doing it, so you'll probably have to block off an afternoon and do them one right after the other. I hope that helps.

Wouldn't a horn that only needs to be 60-200hz be alot smaller than the T-39?
Just wondering.

I think I will be following your goals with the DR's because of budget constraints.

I have always wanted to build the La Scalla clones but the 500hz and up was always expensive. DR's have always been a possibility but I have never seen anyone into HT use them.

Now the DR series and a T39 should have everything I would want but it will be nice to see if YOU like them.

Midbass slam and everything else.

MK you have pm

Just wondering if MK got his delivery and thought this thread deserved a bump.

Cant wait to see the results of the DR/T39's. Would the T18 not be enough?

Just wondering if the subs would be coming in around 60hz just figured the bass horn could be pretty small.

Did you go with a different builder than ED?

Very nice....

Can't wait to hear your impressions.....

JSS

Picked up a Yamaha rx-v667 (has preouts) for a few hundred bucks yesterday. I'm now ready to go the DR200 route for LCR. I'll use minidsps to run EQ on them

I'm curious all the differences in the DR line. Performance, cost, build difficulty, etc. I have no need for new speakers but would like to hear some. I need to stop reading this thread or I'll have some plans on order.

The only real difference in the dr200, dr250, dr280 is size of the box, a bit bigger woofer and where they cross over at. For our purposes the dr200 is about as big as you want to go or you would start to lose imaging unless you have a huge theater. I believe you have to cross the dr200 over at 120hz, the dr250 goes to 100hz, etc

Any idea on when the other speakers are going to get to you?

Thanks MK. As always, I'm looking forward to your findings.

That's good to know. In the pro audio world they are being crossed over at120 most of the time. So then why the T39s if you are happy with their output as don't the F20s cover the rest of the frequency range then?

You should check out the JBL PRX635, MK. Active three-way; should come in under your limit for speakers in this shootout.

Yeah, any quality 2" CD tweeter that does well over 10K is costing > $1400/pr alone

How about sticking my BMS 4590p in a La Scalla clone? I will give you a good deal