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Official 2011 Mitsubishi Laservue L75-A94 Owner's Thread - Page 18

post #511 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by tritorch View Post

Thanks KingLou, that's good to hear. That takes me one step closer to choosing the A94. About the only thing holding me back at this point are the reflections, which look pretty over-powering from what i've seen looking at some of the pictures in this thread. What's your take on them; or are you in a completely light controlled environment?

I've owned both an A91 and A94. The 94 screen is more reflective and works best in a controlled viewing environment.



Quote:


JewDaddy: I appreciate the suggestion, and i've no doubt that the VT50 is an excellent choice. My main with going plasma is the heat they generate, my second is their brightness level which is probably not ideal for my relatively bright living room.

I also own a 65VT50 which has been on continuously for the last 54 hours. Heat output is about average for a large plasma.

As to light output, a fully calibrated A94 (ADV1 or 2 mode) yields about 24 foot Lamberts peak white. The VT50 can produce about 40FtL with mid panel brightness and up to 50 in high. This is considerably higher than the 2011 VT30 model. The A94 is not a very good choice for a bright room but the VT50 is fine unless you insist on 70FtL LCD capability.
post #512 of 733
I'm debating between the 94, the 91, and the 73840. I have a dedicated theater with controlled lighting. Would I really see any difference between these 3? Also, can you turn the blue lights off the LV? Thanks.
post #513 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jodi Gentzlinger View Post

I'm debating between the 94, the 91, and the 73840. I have a dedicated theater with controlled lighting. Would I really see any difference between these 3? Also, can you turn the blue lights off the LV? Thanks.

Yes, you can turn the blue light off.

The Minimum Light Level on the A91 was .007-.008 Foot Lamberts. MLL on the A94 is .003FtL, more than doubling the ON'OFF contrast ratio.
post #514 of 733
Buzz,
Thanks. Is the 94 going to be much better than the 73840?
post #515 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jodi Gentzlinger View Post

Buzz,
Thanks. Is the 94 going to be much better than the 73840?

I haven't calibrated a 73840 so I can't comment specifically. Save for bulb changes, I doubt there is much difference between the two displays.

Whichever you choose, be sure and use a calibration disc to set Contrast, Brightness, Sharpness, Color, and Tint properly. It makes a difference.
post #516 of 733
Thanks!
post #517 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

I've owned both an A91 and A94. The 94 screen is more reflective and works best in a controlled viewing environment.

Gotcha, thanks for the heads up. It's too bad about the reflections really. I even wouldn't be worried except for it's size, which i'm sure will catch far more light than my 46inch.



Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

I also own a 65VT50 which has been on continuously for the last 54 hours. Heat output is about average for a large plasma.

As to light output, a fully calibrated A94 (ADV1 or 2 mode) yields about 24 foot Lamberts peak white. The VT50 can produce about 40FtL with mid panel brightness and up to 50 in high. This is considerably higher than the 2011 VT30 model. The A94 is not a very good choice for a bright room but the VT50 is fine unless you insist on 70FtL LCD capability.

Wow you're hard core, i wish i had my choice of top of the line tvs like you seem to!

Good to know about the heat of the plasma, i'm now leaning back toward the HX929. I own 3 XBRs and -- with exception to the silly XBR10 -- they've served me well. I think i'll stick with the HX929...unless anyone here can think of any reason why i shouldn't?

Thanks to all for your insight.
post #518 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by tritorch View Post


Good to know about the heat of the plasma, i'm now leaning back toward the HX929. I own 3 XBRs and -- with exception to the silly XBR10 -- they've served me well. I think i'll stick with the HX929...unless anyone here can think of any reason why i shouldn't?

Unless you have a requirement for off axis viewing where a plasma is much better than LCD, go with the 929. It's a very good display.
post #519 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by tritorch View Post

Good to know about the heat of the plasma, i'm now leaning back toward the HX929. I own 3 XBRs and -- with exception to the silly XBR10 -- they've served me well. I think i'll stick with the HX929...unless anyone here can think of any reason why i shouldn't?

I too was interested in the A94, I had to nip that because of space, but I am a very big fan of the HX929. If XBR has been good to you so far stick to what works.
post #520 of 733
Hooked up the A94 yesterday. The picture was pretty terrible at first. I was worried to be honest. But, once got to ADV1 and turned all the processing off and used the Disney WOW disk to get a rough calibration, I take back all the bad things I said about the Mits TVs. If the bulb systems can look like this, then I apologize. This TV looks great. There are some things it is better than my 70" XBR2, there are some things the XBR2 did better. But, I am extremely happy with this choice.

We watched the BR Extended version of Fellowship of the Rings on 1080p 24. There were scenes that were almost too soap opera like. There was an awesome depth to the picture. Panning was dead smooth .. NO JUDDER!!!

CONS:
Blacks are a bit crushed. Might be able to calibrate that better when I have it done by a pro.
Just a bit washed (not bad, just a little).. again probably can be calibrated out.

Built in sound is worse than a portable am radio. Not a huge problem since I have a decent sound system. But, my wife always uses the internal sound, and it is very annoying.

Fan noise. There is a whine coming from the fans that I will need to solve. Extremely annoying.

There is a slight distortion on the right side. It's only visible when certain types of images are displayed. I think the glass is bent in, or the internal screen. I'll check that out.

Glare ... If you have a room with ambient light coming in from all over the place, this TV would be a problem.
post #521 of 733
It does appear that the L75-A96 will transition to the more standard RF emitter for their 3D glasses instead of the IR they've been using up to now.

I'm really close to jumping on one of the cheap A94s around now, but I'm worried that the IR glasses will become scarce now that there is a standard.
I know Panasonic, Samsung, and other manufacturers' RF glasses are interchangeable.

Anyone know if there is an RF emitter that can be added to the Mits' 3D emitter port in that back that'll make it compatible?
post #522 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoctorM View Post

I'm really close to jumping on one of the cheap A94s around now, but I'm worried that the IR glasses will become scarce now that there is a standard.
The A94 has an emitter port as well as the internal emitter. Won't it support the standard format emitters?
post #523 of 733
That's pretty much my question JMCecil. Are there standard RF emitters that are compatible with these ports?
post #524 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoctorM View Post

That's pretty much my question JMCecil. Are there standard RF emitters that are compatible with these ports?
Sorry, I have no clue. I'm one of those that think 3d isn't usable. So, I didn't bother to figure that out. If you get an answer please post it here.

Good luck
post #525 of 733
Okay, my research says that you only need IR glasses for the L75-A94 (the IR emitter is built in), BUT if you want you can buy 3rd party glasses that come with an emitter, such as Optoma or Monster and plug it into the VESA port in the back.
I don't know if any of those emitters are compatible with the current Samsung or Panasonic glasses.
It would be nice if Mitsubishi was switching to RF this year for them to sell a bundle of the glasses that includes an emitter for anyone with older models wanting to go RF.

Hopefully someone with some more knowledge can jump in here.

ALSO, I have a general question for the group... what are you using for a base? A lot of what I've seen won't take the size or weight of the L75-A94.
I'm surprised Mits doesn't make a matching one for this TV. It's not like you can just hang it on a wall.
post #526 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoctorM View Post

I have a general question for the group... what are you using for a base? A lot of what I've seen won't take the size or weight of the L75-A94.
I'm surprised Mits doesn't make a matching one for this TV. It's not like you can just hang it on a wall.
I picked up one of these at HHGreg
http://www.hhgregg.com/techcraft-bernini-series-stand-for-most-60-and-smaller-flat-panel-tvs/item/HBL60

The TVs foot fits completely on the stand, but the TV overhangs a couple of inches on either side.
Edited by JMCecil - 6/8/12 at 5:48am
post #527 of 733
So here is the response I got from Mitsubishi:
Quote:
Unfortunately we do not make nor is there a compatible RF emitter that can be attached to the TV

Considering this is contrary to the user manual, I'm a bit confused.

@JMCecil - Is the weight of the television an issue for that stand?
post #528 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoctorM View Post

So here is the response I got from Mitsubishi:
Quote:
Unfortunately we do not make nor is there a compatible RF emitter that can be attached to the TV
Considering this is contrary to the user manual, I'm a bit confused.
@JMCecil - Is the weight of the television an issue for that stand?

Been holding up so far. I think the TV weighs 20 lbs less than the specified max weight. And the max weight is usually pretty low on things like that.
post #529 of 733
About to jump on one of these. Can anyone tell me if they can play network DNLA content (over a network) or content via the USB port?

Edit: Also, has anyone tested Buzzard767's calibration numbers on other sets? I mean how good is the uniformity for settings between these TVs?
Edited by DoctorM - 6/20/12 at 7:07pm
post #530 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoctorM View Post

About to jump on one of these. Can anyone tell me if they can play network DNLA content (over a network) or content via the USB port?
Edit: Also, has anyone tested Buzzard767's calibration numbers on other sets? I mean how good is the uniformity for settings between these TVs?

It is internet capable, but I believe it only plays JPEGs and MP3s over USB. http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/tv/L75-A94/specifications Nothing on DNLA either.

Copying calibration numbers is a crap shoot with any TV. There are too many variables between TVs and watching environments. You can try someone else's settings and it won't hurt anything, but without equipment or at least a trained eye, you will never know if you are even close. Write down your original settings before changing anything.
Edited by Augerhandle - 6/20/12 at 8:58pm
post #531 of 733
Thanks. I guess the settings will make a good starting point anyway since it sounds like the defaults are pretty awful from what people are saying.
post #532 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoctorM View Post

Thanks. I guess the settings will make a good starting point anyway since it sounds like the defaults are pretty awful from what people are saying.

You never know until you put a meter on the display. Are you on the east or west coast?
post #533 of 733
Finally getting the time to start getting a bit organized .. still have some cable tucking and such to do. But, I'm very happy with the TV ... Not happy with the Anthem receiver. Photogrophy is clearly not in my wheel house. I have no idea how you guys get decent pictures with cell phones.

356
post #534 of 733
I just got my L75-A94 a couple of days ago, and fyi, purchased it primarily for 3d from various sources. I have a couple questions that maybe you can help me with as Customer Support is closed on the weekend, and in any case, quite often users have found tweaks!

1/ This is actually an observation/question. It seems that I have a lot of multicolored "artifacts" that seem to be part of the screen itself. I call them "artifacts" because they are really tiny, all colors (may be primary colors) and are most prevalent in the white areas of the display. It's like the "white" is a shade of gray. More properly put, a really low level multicolored gray. I have had my screen calibrated by a local pro, and also it does this across all video modes, ie. brilliant, bright, natural, etc. This is noticeable even during TV and movies. If I have the input from my PC and pull up a blank white page like a word doc, it's almost bothersome. Oddly enough, and don't laugh please.., when I move my head from left to right/up down, the "artifacts" seem to diminish. Is this common and get used to it, is this abnormal for the dlp/TV (or is it just me!smile.gif ).

EDIT-I turned on a movie that had a lot of white walls in a scene, and when they panned across the room, it was like the wall/camera panned but the front of the tv screen stood still. This make any sense to anyone? I am going to have the installers come back out next Tuesday to finish some Audio wiring and show them what I'm talking about, but was curious before they get here.

2/ Ok, now the tech question. When I have my PC hooked up at 1080P, I need to set the screen for 2D at "PC1080P Reduced", for everything on the display to show up correctly, as if I have it set at "PC1080P Standard", the outside edges are cut off all the way around. Ok, that works fine for 2D.

Now, when I go to Checkboard, my only "Format" available is "PC1080p Standard". Therefore, while in 3d, all of the outside edges get cut. I have gone in the Nvidia Control panel and readjusted my screen size to fit the TV, 1804 X 1014. That works, however, what happens is that it throws the checkerboard display out of whack on the TV, and I do then indeed get real checkerboards, instead of 3d. fyi, I've tried both the emitters on the TV, internal and purchased external, and also the NVidia IR emitter with dlp link.


Question is---how can I get Checkerboard at "PC1080P Reduced" display?

I can go back to the Nvidia forums and they will tell me, go back to 3dtv play and 720p... I would prefer to stick to 1080p.

In any case, even though it will work with the NV emitter/glasses cutting off the outside edge, 3D gaming at 1080p on this machine is frigg'n incredible. Oh, with the NV stuff, need to reverse the 3d.


Thanks,
Dan
Edited by djamesb - 6/23/12 at 7:45pm
post #535 of 733
Another question, I can't seem to find a setting to alter depth of 3d, is there one?
Thanks again,
Dan
post #536 of 733
Well I have my 92 for about 2.5 years and since the first day I put on all the intake poly filter holding it with blue tape: My inside of the the TV is as clean as the first day it came in.
I replace the filter at about every six month; What I do is I go to a filter factory and pick the left over strip of filters and cut it to cover all the intakes of the TV.
post #537 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by djamesb View Post

I just got my L75-A94 a couple of days ago, and fyi, purchased it primarily for 3d from various sources. I have a couple questions that maybe you can help me with as Customer Support is closed on the weekend, and in any case, quite often users have found tweaks!

1/ This is actually an observation/question. It seems that I have a lot of multicolored "artifacts" that seem to be part of the screen itself. I call them "artifacts" because they are really tiny, all colors (may be primary colors) and are most prevalent in the white areas of the display. It's like the "white" is a shade of gray. More properly put, a really low level multicolored gray. I have had my screen calibrated by a local pro, and also it does this across all video modes, ie. brilliant, bright, natural, etc. This is noticeable even during TV and movies. If I have the input from my PC and pull up a blank white page like a word doc, it's almost bothersome. Oddly enough, and don't laugh please.., when I move my head from left to right/up down, the "artifacts" seem to diminish. Is this common and get used to it, is this abnormal for the dlp/TV (or is it just me!smile.gif ).

EDIT-I turned on a movie that had a lot of white walls in a scene, and when they panned across the room, it was like the wall/camera panned but the front of the tv screen stood still. This make any sense to anyone? I am going to have the installers come back out next Tuesday to finish some Audio wiring and show them what I'm talking about, but was curious before they get here.

2/ Ok, now the tech question. When I have my PC hooked up at 1080P, I need to set the screen for 2D at "PC1080P Reduced", for everything on the display to show up correctly, as if I have it set at "PC1080P Standard", the outside edges are cut off all the way around. Ok, that works fine for 2D.

Now, when I go to Checkboard, my only "Format" available is "PC1080p Standard". Therefore, while in 3d, all of the outside edges get cut. I have gone in the Nvidia Control panel and readjusted my screen size to fit the TV, 1804 X 1014. That works, however, what happens is that it throws the checkerboard display out of whack on the TV, and I do then indeed get real checkerboards, instead of 3d. fyi, I've tried both the emitters on the TV, internal and purchased external, and also the NVidia IR emitter with dlp link.


Question is---how can I get Checkerboard at "PC1080P Reduced" display?

I can go back to the Nvidia forums and they will tell me, go back to 3dtv play and 720p... I would prefer to stick to 1080p.

In any case, even though it will work with the NV emitter/glasses cutting off the outside edge, 3D gaming at 1080p on this machine is frigg'n incredible. Oh, with the NV stuff, need to reverse the 3d.


Thanks,
Dan

Both issues are normal with DLPs, though they can be a nuisance in certain situations.

1.
You are seeing the texture of the lenticular screen. Because the picture is so clear and sharp, sometimes that texture becomes visible. The screen is made up of many tiny lenses that focus the light forward. I only notice it on mine during a hockey game (all that white ice). What is your contrast setting? Usually too high of a contrast setting will make it appear worse. When set correctly, contrast is usually set somewhere betwenn half to three-quarters of full range setting.
2.
Because it is a projection TV, the picture is overscanning, which means that the picture edge is allowed to extend past the edges of the TV. This hides junk transmitted by TV stations at the edges of the picture, and any geometry flaws from the picture bouncing off the mirrors. The TV is capable of pixel to pixel mapping, and it is in fact necessary for checkerboard 3D to work. Unfortunately, this is trouble for computers because of the overscan. "Reduce" re-maps the image to a smaller area in the interior of the pixel grid so the edges are visible, but this is through software and disables pixel to pixel mapping. Checkerboard 3D requires that all of the pixels be mapped precisely, so pixel to pixel mapping is restored for 3D mode, no matter how you have it set. Because of this, you can't get Checkerboard 3D with the "PC1080P Reduced" display.
post #538 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by djamesb View Post

Another question, I can't seem to find a setting to alter depth of 3d, is there one?
Thanks again,
Dan

No. depth is set by the source content.
post #539 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by djamesb View Post

1/ This is actually an observation/question. It seems that I have a lot of multicolored "artifacts" that seem to be part of the screen itself. I call them "artifacts" because they are really tiny, all colors (may be primary colors) and are most prevalent in the white areas of the display. It's like the "white" is a shade of gray. More properly put, a really low level multicolored gray. I have had my screen calibrated by a local pro, and also it does this across all video modes, ie. brilliant, bright, natural, etc. This is noticeable even during TV and movies. If I have the input from my PC and pull up a blank white page like a word doc, it's almost bothersome. Oddly enough, and don't laugh please.., when I move my head from left to right/up down, the "artifacts" seem to diminish. Is this common and get used to it, is this abnormal for the dlp/TV (or is it just me!smile.gif ).
One thing that got me .. I calibrated ADV1 using the Disney WOW disk. I turned all processing OFF before doing so.

I didn't know it at the time, but if you hook your TV to the internet, it will auto update when you turn it off. Then it will auto update again the next time you turn it off. Then again .. etc

The update reset my settings .. took me a bit to figure out what had happened.

Also, the bright modes will exaggerate the problem you are describing, even if you try to calibrate them. So, make sure you calibrate from ADV1 /2.
post #540 of 733
I appreciate the info folks. Thank you!
Dan
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