Official 2011 Mitsubishi Laservue L75-A94 Owner's Thread - Page 19

Finding a stand big enough wasn't easy. I got this TechCraft model from BestBuy, though it's now cheaper on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Techcraft-Bernini-NTR60-Panel-Stand/dp/B002ISZEEE

BestBuy

Like the other stand noted in the post above, the TV's foot fits completely and easily on the stand, but the TV overhangs a bit on each side. Nonetheless, it fits well and the TV and stand are in proportion to each other. Here's a picture of my setup:


Edited by macbookpro95014 - 6/27/12 at 8:18pm

I had looked at that stand. My problem was that I wanted an upper shelf that was tall enough to hold my center channel speaker. That one was way to narrow. Other than that it is an ideal free standing stand.

I know what you mean. Fortunately for me, the top shelf still managed to hold my center channel speaker (part of a Boston Acoustics MCS 150 surround sound package). The picture doesn't show it well but the top shelf is not as tall as the bottom shelf, which is roomier and holds my Pioneer AVR (VSX 1121).

I had the same problem with ants getting inside the TV. Used this to get rid of them: Terro Liquid Ant Killer

Available at Home Depot for $4:
Terro 2 fl. oz. Ready-to-Use Ant Killer

That solved the problem quickly, but it certainly sounds like a good idea to prevent this from happening in the first place by covering all of the vents.

Now that the new (96) is listed on the Mits. website, does anyone know the differences between the 94's and 96's?

Please see my post from 4/29:

To clarify the situation with the 3D glasses for this model (some of this information is very basic, but for those just joining the conversation it could be helpful): The L75-A96, as with all previous models of LaserVue, requires Active Shutter 3D Glasses. No glasses marked “passive” or “anaglyph” will be compatible. Contrary to what others have stated in this thread, the L75-A96 will not have RF built-in – there are no Bluetooth features in this model. Only the Diamond 842 Series of non-laser DLP sets has integrated compatibility with Bluetooth RF glasses. The L75-A96 features integrated IR, and the IR protocol is M-3DI, which is a protocol developed jointly by Panasonic and XPAND 3D. These firms announced this proposed standard in March of last year, but it has since been folded into the Full HD 3D Glasses Initiative, which is further described here. Any glasses labeled "M-3DI," "3D Active" (this is basically another name for M-3DI) or "IR Full HD" are compatible with Panasonic IR-based TVs and will work with the L75-A96, as well as with the 742 Series of Mitsubishi TVs. Just make sure that the Full HD glasses you buy are so labeled, as there is also a version for RF-only systems (the aptly named "RF Full HD" standard).

It should be noted that you do not want to use the internal IR emitters and external IR emitters at the same time – only one or the other, but not both simultaneously, otherwise they will not work. The L75-A96 is also DLP Link compatible, so any glasses labeled "DLP Link" should work. A drawback to DLP Link, however, is that it uses a flash of white light between frames as the synch signal, which can diminish contrast levels. The L75-A96 also has a VESA jack, so third-party RF transmitters and IR emitters that are VESA compatible should also be compatible with this TV. Mitsubishi cannot test every brand of glasses coming to the market, just as they cannot test every Blu-ray player or A/V receiver (they simply do not have the manpower). That is why they use a standards-based approach as much as possible, and try to stay away from manufacturer-exclusive accessories. That said, they do recommend XPAND's X103 glasses. Mitsubishi's 3DG-X103 kit is made by XPAND and contains one pair of X103-M (the “M” stands for Mitsubishi) glasses, three nosepieces, two extra CR2032 batteries and a microfiber storage bag. XPAND is the leading provider of active-shutter 3D glasses for movie theaters, with over 4,500 cinemas worldwide now using their technology, so at least you can say their technology has been well tested.

The L75-A96 lists for $5,999.

Weird that they'd make the change in the 842's and leave it out of their flagship TV.

I believe their flagship is the 842 series. The LaserVue "features" development seems to always lag slightly behind the lamp based models each year, with it getting some innovations, but missing out on others.

Which is how you achieve greatness in a $6k TV.
No wonder nobody takes Mits and their RPs seriously.

Don't get me wrong, I like the way their DLP sets look, but I frequently have the feeling that they aren't trying very hard. (Do not get me started.)

I AGREE THEY ARE NOT TRYING VERY HARD. THANKS TO RY GEEKLMAN WE HAVE THE EIGHT THINGS THEY CLAIM TO HAVE IMPROVED. LET US LOOK AT THE FIRST THREE...

1A IMPROVED RELIABILITY
1B. IMPROVED IMAGE QUALITY
1CIMPROVED AMBIENT LIGHT SENSOR

WHAT NONSENSE IT IS THE SAME AS LAST YEAR...

HOW ABOUT SOME OF THE OTHERS

2.CHANEL VIEW NO LONGER OFFERED...IS THIS AN ADVANTAGE OR A STEP BACK...?
3.3D DEPTH ADJUSTMENT WORKS FOR BOTH 3D AND 2D.. SINCE LAST YEARS MODELS DIDN'T HAVE THE 2D DIDN'T THEY JUST EXTEND IT TO THIS NEW FEATURE?
4.BLUE ACCENT LIGHTING NOW SET TO OFF AS A DEFAULT. WOW WHAT AN IMPROVEMENT...

YES YES YES THEY ARE NOT TRYING VERY HARD. THIS IS PRETTY MUCH LAST YEARS SET...

You simply have no idea of the R&D expense that went into commercializing Class IV lasers for use in a television set, otherwise you wouldn't say that Mitsubishi isn't trying hard enough.

Why are you yelling???

I'm prepared to get myself a Laservue for use as a PC Display, however i'm stumpped... On Mitsu's site, it says the a94 is 1920 x 1080 60hz while the a96 is 1365 x 768 60hz... I'm only going to assume that they didn't finish typing the supported resolutions for the a96 on the website.... and that it CAN support 1920 x 1080... but if this is wrong, please let me know My heart is pounding from the suspense :P

Read the actual spec sheet. It's there. http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/asset/file/spec_sheet/L75-A96_Spec%20Sheet_v4.pdf

Edited by Augerhandle - 7/28/12 at 10:16pm

We finally pulled the trigger on one of these tonight from a major electronics chain with an alliterative name.

Ready to buy, the salesman came back and said HE found it on Amazon MUCH cheaper and they would be happy to price match it.
I am not kidding. It's nice not to have to deal with random online Amazon marketplace dealer.
Oh, and 30 days no questions return policy.... and they pick it up.

They don't have these on the floor. The salesman wants to come over and see it once it arrives... I think he's earned it.
Edited by DoctorM - 8/3/12 at 10:14pm

Was it ___regg?

No.

Um. L75-A96 links removed from Mitsubishi-tv.com.
Portentious?

On the bright side, A94 arriving tomorrow, a full 3 days early.
On the down side, it'll arrive before my stand or HDMI cable.

Edit: I have question for you all.
ATM, I will be plugging an older Panasonic S52 DVD player into the A94.

Will I get better image setting the DVD player to 480p and letting the Laservue upscale to 1080p (which according to the manual all input sources are automatically upscaled), or should I set the DVD player to its maximum upscaling (1080i) and let the Mits convert to 1080p from there?

I figure the DVD player's 480i output isn't even a consideration.

I can't help thinking double scaling (480p(?) -> 1080i -> 1080p) would produce a worse picture, and that the Laservue probably has a more modern upscaler than the DVD player.

Thoughts?
Edited by DoctorM - 8/9/12 at 12:52pm

I would think setting it to 480P would work best, but the standard advice is always to try it both ways.

The A96 info is back.

You'll love the A94.

Started setting up new TV. Nice.
One of my fears: screen sag or non-uniform was pointless. The screen is as flat and perfect as any flat panel.

Question: Info including the TVs own demo for internet connectivity says Pandora. I don't see that app. Was it removed during some firmware upgrade or something?

Edit: Also I'm open to suggested settings for dejudder, smoother, film detection, etc.

Edit 2:
buzzard767 posted some calibration settings.
Day: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1353866/official-2011-mitsubishi-laservue-l75-a94-owners-thread/300#post_21345787
Night: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1353866/official-2011-mitsubishi-laservue-l75-a94-owners-thread/300#post_21349913

The only problem is he says to use ADV2 for both settings. The manual says to use ADV1 for day and ADV2 for night.

Is there an actual difference between ADV1 and 2? Can they be used interchangeably or am I stuck with only one 'proper' calibration?
Edited by DoctorM - 8/10/12 at 4:13pm

They can be used interchangeably.

I haven't been able to do it with mine but I think the settings can be locked, at which point "ADV1" changes to "ISF Day/3D" and "ADV2" changes to "ISF Night/2D". So they recommend setting ADV1 to daytime settings because of this to avoid confusion.

I could be totally out to lunch on this.
Edited by the Son - 8/10/12 at 6:04pm

Without going back and reading what I wrote I suspect that I did the Day in ADV2 for demo purposes for the forum and then did my night Calibration there. The A94 is in a light controlled room so I have no need for Day settings myself. I was saving ADV1 for 3D. I'm up north for the summer and won't be back on that TV for another couple of months....

Thanks. After watching 5 minutes of a movie with movie detection (or whatever it's called) set to auto and the default dejudder and smoother (5 each), I couldn't turn the dejudder and smoother off fast enough. Ick.
I don't know if the auto movie detect setting actually does anything alone, but the other features make the motion awful.

I'm curious about other people's experience using buzzard767's numbers. ATM I only have HD cable TV and an DVD player attached, but I've found the picture with those numbers to have low contrast and dull colors. The default setting of Natural seems good and Cinema's nice if you are in the mood for a bit more vibrancy.

Once I finalize my set up a bit I'll take a look again, but I'm thinking of sticking with the default modes.
I do constantly read about people recommending turning off the deepfield imager and the other first 4 settings, so I'll probably do that at the very least.

I know it might be considered an insult, but I love how much this feels like a CRT. The blacks are dark with the image appropriately bright, even and containing no weird motion or other artifacts that I can detect.

@buzzard767 - Just one more thing. In you calibrations you called Sharpness a 'suspected placebo'.

You are mostly right. It does not effect the image... unless EdgeEnhancement is turned on. Then it works appropriately.

I don't know if that makes you want to take a look at EE again for your calibrations using low values for sharpness or not, but at least that's a mystery solved... and possibly a bug.

It's a fact that settings don't travel well, even to the next set off the assembly line. The only reason I posted anything on this thread is because there is very little information available due to the relatively small number of LaserVues in our homes.

You are correct that EE is a switch. I found that out a few months ago. There is no place for "sharpening" in modern digital television. The only reason the controls exist is for marketing purposes. Also, sharpening has no effect on calibrations.

Been watching many movies the last few days. My eyes now look like this.

More and more I'm liking Buzzard767's settings, especially for full HD sources. SD does benefit from the weird features (enhanced color gamut, edge enhancement, etc.) and for those I'm using either Natural or Cinema just as they are.

I did put the motion blur reduction back to its default, and next I'll try a LITTLE dejudder. The default gives SOE, but I figure it might be there for a reason.

2 questions:
One of the first things I did was turn the light sensor off. Does it serve any purpose under any conditions? I've never heard of it being beneficial on other TVs except to save some electricity so I never even gave it a chance.

Also, I was watching Men In Black tonight and noticed a distinct audio lag.
I'm still waiting on my HDMI cable, so until I've finalized my setup I'm not going to mess with that sort of thing.

Has anyone else noticed lag on these sets? If so what delay did you find helped?

Edit: It turns out I find the dejudder feature unacceptable at all levels. Whether it is the nature of dejuddering or the implementation, I just hate it.

As far as the audio lag goes, so far I've pushed my DVD player to 40ms delay and that seems to have corrected the problem.
Still, I'm dubious since that means it was only a 1 frame lag. I'm not sure I should have been able to detect that.

What almost had me returning this TV was my older equipment. Anything that can't add an audio delay is a real problem.

So here is my advice to anyone else with this issue:
Feed the audio out from your device along with the video to the Laservue, and then use the TV's audio out to return it to your AV receiver.

The Laservue appears to add the correct delay to the audio signal on its own.
While not an ideal solution, it is a solution.
Edited by DoctorM - 8/13/12 at 12:46pm

Okay, stumped. Is it possible I got a bad Laservue?

Even on a general basis, most places I've read say that the 'Natural' mode with the 4 special features (EdgeEnhancement, DeepImage Whatever, Denoisy Grasshopper,...) all turned off is the closest to accurate out of the box.

I've also tried THX optimode which doesn't really show Natural as being inaccurate.

The thing is, the picture is dingy. I've tried buzzard767's settings, which are fairly close to Natural, which is encouraging, but I can't get an image I'd consider accurate.

I know a photo of the screen isn't a good way to convey what I'm seeing, the yellow on my screen is not lemony, but more pale.
Actually, you can see the PerfectColor calibration sliders look good, but the actual picture when I watch something looks more like the color bars on the right.
Shouldn't the Yellow = Yellow?

Bad TV? Bad variation within a model in desperate need of calibration? I just don't know what a proper calibration should look like?
I'll take any advice, because the picture looks fairly crap which is wrong in a TV that is supposed to be this high end.

@DoctorM

From what you posted it looks like you have a yellow saturation problem. Sometimes on these sets blue can be high and that would tend to pull down red and green, thus yellow as well. Also, blue might be high in the grayscale - not unusual at all. BTW, those Perfect Color controls deal mostly with luminance so increasing would lead to a brighter but still washed out yellow.

@buzzard 767: I really wasn't going to touch PerfectTint/PerfectColor, but it was good that it generated colorbars internally and not via an input.

Are you saying then that this is probably a bad set? It's not that old and I can easily still get a swap from where I bought it.


Edit: Btw, Mitsubishi's response regarding Pandora music service:
Seriously, Vudu is a crap app provider. It'd be nice to see a firmware update eliminate it for a more traditional apps system and bringing Hulu, YouTube, Amazon, Netflix, etc. to these.
Edited by DoctorM - 8/17/12 at 10:14am