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Official Sony VPL-HW30(A)ES Owners Thread - Page 56

post #1651 of 2970
12/13/11 at 4:51am
hi bigcooljesus,
I feel tonight, because it was the first time I connected an old DVD player to the projector via hdmi .. before this was connected with my PC.
Thank you for your answer and I really hope you're right!
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post #1652 of 2970
12/13/11 at 10:50am
Just got my new lamp from PCRUSH. Great price and fast delivery. I measured the projector before I changed the bulb. At 400 hrs I was getting 491 lumens on low and 813 on high. With the new bulb I am getting 548 on low and 893 on high. So, if you assume that the bulbs were equal to start, the projector has only lost about 10% of it's brightness in 400 hours. Not too shabby.
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post #1653 of 2970
12/13/11 at 11:28am
How often do people usually replace their lamps? I'm almost at 300 hours and have no intention of replacing until well over 1500 hours (barring any unforeseen problems).

Just curious
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post #1654 of 2970
12/13/11 at 11:34am
@jasonDono Any reason you're replacing the lamp or do you just want a backup? Sounds like your existing lamp was in good shape
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post #1655 of 2970
12/13/11 at 11:44am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post

How often do people usually replace their lamps? I'm almost at 300 hours and have no intention of replacing until well over 1500 hours (barring any unforeseen problems).

Just curious

UHP lamps can go at any time (just ask JVC owners last year) so some like to have a backup just in case. Murphy's law says it will happen on a late Friday afternoon just as your having guests over.

That is great to see Jason's lamp only dimmed about 10% in 400 hours. The replacement cost for the Sony is still unbelievable, it's by far the least expensive UHP lamp for any of the 2-8k projectors this year.
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post #1656 of 2970
12/13/11 at 2:00pm
hello,
I tried to keep it on the player and turn on the projector later, but left without problems.
I'll never know what made ​​him go on tilt.
At this point I hope that does not happen again any more.
Hello everyone and thank you!
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post #1657 of 2970
12/13/11 at 2:07pm
Let's say I never change any settings from when I first had my projector calibrated: when I replace the bulb x amount of hours from now, is a new calibration necessary once the new bulb is broken in? Or will the settings I was using still be accurate once the new bulb is broken in?
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post #1658 of 2970
12/13/11 at 5:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

are you saying you don't currently have a 3D BD player? if so, it's a day and night difference between the built in up-converter vs. a real 3D BD with a 3D bluray player. If you went this far, it's a good investment to see real 3D.

You can pick them up pretty cheap. I have a Samung with dual HDMI outputs, it sends the 3D signal to the projector and HD audio to my older 1.3 Pioneer and works great (no audio sync issues, etc).

Thanks.
I hadn't planned to do any 3D, but now I'll have to it seems. My problem is that I have an Oppo 83 SE and I am reluctant to add another player.

But now that I know there are big differences in native 3D and upconversion, I'll start moving that way.
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post #1659 of 2970
12/13/11 at 8:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post

Let's say I never change any settings from when I first had my projector calibrated: when I replace the bulb x amount of hours from now, is a new calibration necessary once the new bulb is broken in? Or will the settings I was using still be accurate once the new bulb is broken in?

each lamp has it's own characteristics for how it's going to perform. It shouldn't be a drastic difference, but I've seen measurable differences when swapping lamps on my JVC. usually it's just the gray scale that needs adjusting.

unfortunately you can't assume that once the replacement lamp gets to the same hours as the previous calibration (with previous lamp) that it will be the same. However, the difference could be so small that it's not noticed by the eye.

The Sony looks good out of the box, I didn't bother calibrating it right away. I just reached 100 hours on my HW30 and will be calibrating it in the next 2 weeks just to see where it's at and make some corrections.
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post #1660 of 2970
12/13/11 at 8:43pm
For those of you that have purchased the br250s or br50s and their respective filters, can you comment on how the filters get attached. In my head i'm picturing the way it gets applied would be similar to a peel and stick protective screen cover for an ipod/iphone, etc. Are there filters on the glasses that need to come off first?
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post #1661 of 2970
12/13/11 at 9:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharp360 View Post

For those of you that have purchased the br250s or br50s and their respective filters, can you comment on how the filters get attached. In my head i'm picturing the way it gets applied would be similar to a peel and stick protective screen cover for an ipod/iphone, etc. Are there filters on the glasses that need to come off first?

Hi, the filters have little ridges on the side that allow you to fit them onto the glasses. They are kind of 'free floating' but once they are on, but they aren't going anywhere. Then you just peel a small blue piece of tape that is used to apply the filter. When you see the filters in person, it will be clear how they go on. It only takes a minute or so.

the blue glasses in the photo have the filters and the pink are without the filter. There is nothing to remove from the glasses, just snap the filters into the front.

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post #1662 of 2970
12/14/11 at 4:27am
Zoombie10k

I have played a little with the Sony and MV glasses and it seems that the ghosting is depending on how/where I look out off the glasses - or said other way - if I move my head up ( and then looking throught the lower part off the glasses ) the ghosting get lesser and if lowering my head ( looking out at the toppart off the glasses ) ghosting gets more visible
That is with both glasses, have you seen / tried that ?

Its easy to test, just move the head a little up or down while looking at a scene with some ghosting in it ( like your Avatar sign scene )

dj


BTW I think you need more glasses
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post #1663 of 2970
12/14/11 at 5:39am
Does everyone buy the Optoma Technology BG-3DRFGLASSES as extra glasses with the MonsterVision system? Or are there specific monster branded ones? If so I don't see them on Amazon.
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post #1664 of 2970
12/14/11 at 9:30am
has this been covered already but I'm wondering what type of screen is best to use with this particular projector? Is anybody running the monoprice screens or is it a major difference in paying extra for a better screen...

Not sure if this goes in the "screens" section but I'm wanting to know for this projector only?
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post #1665 of 2970
12/14/11 at 11:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Milez28 View Post

has this been covered already but I'm wondering what type of screen is best to use with this particular projector? Is anybody running the monoprice screens or is it a major difference in paying extra for a better screen...

Not sure if this goes in the "screens" section but I'm wanting to know for this projector only?

There appear to be many opinions on screens. There is a camp that swears by the HP screens but this creates some limitations on viewing and projector placement. Also, if you are going to play an XBox Kinect game, that just won't work with a centered shelf mounted projector and an HP screen. I have kids who do play Kinect and therefore i must have ceiling placement. Most people on this and the other thread either recommend a 1.3 gain screen or the Da-Lite 2.4 Gain. I own a StudioTek 1.3 gain and there are a number of comments that this might be a good match as you do get some gain for 3D and this can help for dark scene 3D movies. The Sony is supposedly quite bright in 2D and can put up decent light for a medium size 1.0 gain screen.

I believe the Monoprice stuff is 1.0 gain or 0.8 Gain for the Grey Fabric. This might be not a great screen for anything but the 106 inch screen in a totally light controlled environment. If I were to upgrade, I might look at the Da-Lite Pearlescent. My screen is 106 and it would be nice to go to a 120 inch model. I have to have a drop down screen and this is about as bright a screen I could get. Just my opinion. I am on order for the 95 and just trying to learn before it arrives.
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post #1666 of 2970
12/14/11 at 5:24pm
I find that if you don't look throughout the center, there is more ghosting. I like to slouch on the couch and tilt my head back, which causes me to look through the bottom of the glasses which causes more ghosting.
Quote:
Originally Posted by d.j. View Post

Zoombie10k

I have played a little with the Sony and MV glasses and it seems that the ghosting is depending on how/where I look out off the glasses - or said other way - if I move my head up ( and then looking throught the lower part off the glasses ) the ghosting get lesser and if lowering my head ( looking out at the toppart off the glasses ) ghosting gets more visible
That is with both glasses, have you seen / tried that ?

Its easy to test, just move the head a little up or down while looking at a scene with some ghosting in it ( like your Avatar sign scene )

dj


BTW I think you need more glasses
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post #1667 of 2970
12/15/11 at 10:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeattleHTGuy View Post

There appear to be many opinions on screens. There is a camp that swears by the HP screens but this creates some limitations on viewing and projector placement. Also, if you are going to play an XBox Kinect game, that just won't work with a centered shelf mounted projector and an HP screen. I have kids who do play Kinect and therefore i must have ceiling placement. Most people on this and the other thread either recommend a 1.3 gain screen or the Da-Lite 2.4 Gain. I own a StudioTek 1.3 gain and there are a number of comments that this might be a good match as you do get some gain for 3D and this can help for dark scene 3D movies. The Sony is supposedly quite bright in 2D and can put up decent light for a medium size 1.0 gain screen.

I believe the Monoprice stuff is 1.0 gain or 0.8 Gain for the Grey Fabric. This might be not a great screen for anything but the 106 inch screen in a totally light controlled environment. If I were to upgrade, I might look at the Da-Lite Pearlescent. My screen is 106 and it would be nice to go to a 120 inch model. I have to have a drop down screen and this is about as bright a screen I could get. Just my opinion. I am on order for the 95 and just trying to learn before it arrives.

I thought the DaLight 2.4 gain screen was the High Power Screen?
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post #1668 of 2970
12/15/11 at 11:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kutlow View Post


I thought the DaLight 2.4 gain screen was the High Power Screen?

Yes, but they use to make a 2.8, so technically there was/is more than one.
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post #1669 of 2970
12/16/11 at 5:59am
Just watched Kung fu panda 2 3d last night and it looked incedible on this projector. Minimal issues with ghosting and just acrap load of eye candy. Best 3d movie I have seen since Avatar.
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post #1670 of 2970
12/16/11 at 10:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeattleHTGuy View Post

There appear to be many opinions on screens. There is a camp that swears by the HP screens but this creates some limitations on viewing and projector placement. Also, if you are going to play an XBox Kinect game, that just won't work with a centered shelf mounted projector and an HP screen. I have kids who do play Kinect and therefore i must have ceiling placement. Most people on this and the other thread either recommend a 1.3 gain screen or the Da-Lite 2.4 Gain. I own a StudioTek 1.3 gain and there are a number of comments that this might be a good match as you do get some gain for 3D and this can help for dark scene 3D movies. The Sony is supposedly quite bright in 2D and can put up decent light for a medium size 1.0 gain screen.

I believe the Monoprice stuff is 1.0 gain or 0.8 Gain for the Grey Fabric. This might be not a great screen for anything but the 106 inch screen in a totally light controlled environment. If I were to upgrade, I might look at the Da-Lite Pearlescent. My screen is 106 and it would be nice to go to a 120 inch model. I have to have a drop down screen and this is about as bright a screen I could get. Just my opinion. I am on order for the 95 and just trying to learn before it arrives.



Well the room is 23' long and I would rather mount it on the back wall but i'm not too sure if it would be too far away from the screen for 1. (I'd like to go with 120" screen)... 2. i dont know if the image would be to dim (especially in 3D) from that far away so I could mount it as close as 15ft I believe just behind the trac lighting that's mounted directly in the center of the room. Ceiling is 8ft tall

Could someone chime in and tell me if that would work please? What type of gain screen am I looking at for this?
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post #1671 of 2970
12/16/11 at 11:31am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Milez28 View Post

...Could someone chime in and tell me if that would work please?...

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post #1672 of 2970
12/16/11 at 11:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by browerjs View Post

Does everyone buy the Optoma Technology BG-3DRFGLASSES as extra glasses with the MonsterVision system? Or are there specific monster branded ones? If so I don't see them on Amazon.

The Optoma glasses will work fine with the MV3D transmitter. all these glasses are made by the same company, 'Bit Cauldron'.
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post #1673 of 2970
12/16/11 at 12:30pm
please excuse my ignorance on this matter but i am new to projectors and have no earthly clue as to what that chart represents...
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post #1674 of 2970
12/16/11 at 2:38pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Milez28 View Post

please excuse my ignorance on this matter but i am new to projectors and have no earthly clue as to what that chart represents...

For a 120" screen the minimum throw (projector) distance is 121" (or 10') and maximum distance is 220.75" (18.4').
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post #1675 of 2970
12/16/11 at 2:43pm
I just bought a Panasonic DMP-BDT210. Replaced my PS3 with it, running it through my new Pioneer 3D capable AVR. The 3D will not sync. The disc starts and the display keeps switching from 3D to 2D without projecting an image or putting out sound. I know it is switching because the HDMI1 indicator keeps popping up in 2d and 3D, and my monster RF syncs, then searches, then syncs again. The PS3 hooked up the same way worked fine. If I plug the Panasonic directly into the projector the image plays fine. Very frustrating.
Any ideas?
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post #1676 of 2970
12/16/11 at 2:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonDono View Post

I just bought a Panasonic DMP-BDT210. Replaced my PS3 with it, running it through my new Pioneer 3D capable AVR. The 3D will not sync. The disc starts and the display keeps switching from 3D to 2D without projecting an image or putting out sound. I know it is switching because the HDMI1 indicator keeps popping up in 2d and 3D, and my monster RF syncs, then searches, then syncs again. The PS3 hooked up the same way worked fine. If I plug the Panasonic directly into the projector the image plays fine. Very frustrating.
Any ideas?

you might have to turn off the HDMI check, or turn on the HDMI passthrough. Check the manual for any HDMI settings and start toggling them to see if it helps.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289855
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post #1677 of 2970
12/16/11 at 4:03pm
Also you might try turning off HDMI control on the 30.
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post #1678 of 2970
12/16/11 at 7:09pm
I just bought a new HW30 and love it! Upgraded from a VW60 and cannot believe how bright it is. 3d looks awesome. Quick question, I ordered some TDG BR50s for my kids from Sony support, will they work with the HW30? I am always leery of customer support giving bad advice.... thanks
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post #1679 of 2970
12/16/11 at 8:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by greenyalie View Post

I just bought a new HW30 and love it! Upgraded from a VW60 and cannot believe how bright it is. 3d looks awesome. Quick question, I ordered some TDG BR50s for my kids from Sony support, will they work with the HW30? I am always leery of customer support giving bad advice.... thanks

Congrats, most everyone on the thread loves their HW30.

The BR50's work if you you order the filters. They are $14.99 per set of glasses.

We used to be able to order online, now you have to call Sony parts direct.

145831421 for the BR50
145839511 for the BR250

(239) 768-7547

They will ask for your serial # to the projector for some reason. They just snap into place once you get them. They definitely will not work without these polarizing filters.
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post #1680 of 2970
12/16/11 at 8:29pm
thanks!! i called and ordered them. would have been disappointing for my kids had they not worked. thanks again!
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