Official Sony VPL-HW30(A)ES Owners Thread - Page 8

I know, I'm using it -- but lens shift should be used after the image is squared, correct? It should neither cause nor mitigate keystoning. My issue is that I can't square the image to the wall without tilting the projector up significantly. The result is that I'm using near maximum lens shift because the projected image with no lens shift, when square, is too high.

Hey mark, thanks for the reply. That's just what I did -- this is my third projector -- and the result was fine excepted that the projector is tilted up at a fairly extreme angle now.

I have only 16'' throw distance. Can it fill a 133'' HP 16:9 screen using HW30?

Very close to buy now, just want to make sure the size is correct.

Did you adjust the depth slider? If you notch it above 1 or 2 you will get extreme ghosting. Also note that some things just doesn't work well, it is a fun feature but nothing compared to a real 3D movie.

Yup, 16' thanks for the quick reply!

Can you check in the menue options on the Sony 30 if it will vertical stretch in 2D and 3D?

Since your in the Atlanta area have you been down to Danley? I have a craving for 2 of their new subs the DBH218LC.

you wont have any problem getting that. i have a 19x19 room and shows a screen image 13 feet wide by 7' 1/2 feet high . very clear all the way around. in 3d conent you will love it!!

2d conversion is neat yes but not as great as the real 3d. the 2d itself is pretty good that i would almost rather watch it that way instead of the converting to 3d. but when watching 3d dcisc, this thing is money.

I gave a 3D demo tonight for a friend that just purchased the HW30. We watched scenes from Avatar, Ultimate Wave Tahiti, Sammy's Adventures, Bolt, Final Destination 4, Rio & Cirque Du Soleil 3D.

he was surprised how bright it was through the glasses, but in all fairness it's a brand new lamp with maximum gain on a 2.8HP screen... it better be bright.

There have been a couple of positive comments about the HW30's black levels in this thread. Being an owner of a still great JVC HD750 (RS20) I enjoy fantastic black levels without a dynamic iris and wouldn't want to take a step back in this respect. So, with the iris set to fixed manual mode what are the black levels on the Sony like? And can anyone say how the native contrast overall compares to an RS20?

If you read comments from those who have the HW30 in hand, there is no reason to turn the iris off.
From what everyone has said to this point, the iris operation is flawless and imperceptible.
Ask Zombie what the comparison is in black levels between Sony and JVC.

Great the 16' throw and 133" HP is my setup also. I was afraid that it would not work with 3D. I lose some of the HP gain by not having the projector directly in the center, but my current Mits HC6000 lights it up good.

The Q004 does not have a DI.

Jules - i've always been apprehensive with dynamic iris because I've seen the 'pumping' action between bright/dark scenes with other projectors.

With the iris on the default setting on the HW30, I can't detect it working and it works quite well. I can't comment on the RS20, but I do have the RS50 sitting right next to the Sony. I would say the overall contrast level is on par with the RS50, Shadow detail meets or exceeds and black floor is closer than most would think.

I have a high power screen and was worried about noticing the fade to blacks during certain scenes, but that isn't the case. The black floor is nice with the IRIS doing it's thing. Sony has done a great job with this low cost projector and I don't think current JVC owners would be disappointed with the contrast and black level performance of the Sony.

it's not perfect, but it's a quality performer for the $$ considering what's included in the box. The out of the box color accuracy is the most surprising so far since I've had to heavily calibrate my RS50 to match which resulted in lumen loss right out of the box. I also like Sony's FI vs. JVC's which I rarely, if ever used since it was so easily detectable. The Sony is more subtle imo.

It seems most RS20 owners love their projectors.. what features are you looking for in an upgrade?

Looks like some data for the HW30 showed up on the sony support site. Has the manual etc: http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/mod...mdl=VPLHW30AES

FYI for anyone using Harmony remotes... the HW30 seems to be in the Harmony database now (you have to search for VPL-HW30ES). I tried adding it the other day and it switched me to the VPL-VW90ES.

I read the manual and couldnt find if this pj does vertical stretch for those of us with anamorphic lens for 2.40 aspect. Can someone help?

I will check this afternoon Kut, sorry I just saw your reply.

I've been down to Danley when I picked up my DTS-10's, outside of that I refuse to go there because I know I will leave with my credit card maxed out I am literally 1 exit away from them.

I also am interested in ditching my 2 DTS-10's for 2 DBH218LC's but I have yet to see a price tag on them yet.

Not sure if already posted but here's the review from projector central:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/sony..._review.htm?em

Help needed. Has any one tried this projector with the Xpand 103s and if they work, how do they compare in PQ to the Sony glasses that come with the AES?

Mark - As far as I can tell, the Xpand 103's don't work correctly at this time. I can get them sync in mode 4 (4 blinks of the setting) but the ghosting is pretty bad and they cut out every 10-15 seconds for a 1-2 seconds.

The ghosting is as bad as when I had the Monster Vision 3D's hooked up, only the Sony's provided a nice 3D image at this time. The Xpands may have actually been a bit worse that my screen shots below showing the MV3D's.

I was pretty much set to order one of these...then I see this on the last page of the review:

Consider me one of those people that find digital noise extremely distracting. It's probably the main reason I've stuck with my Pioneer Elite RPTV for this long. Is this really something to be concerned about or could it be a calibration issue on their part?

I thought I asked this before, but couldn't find my post. Not sure if it got lost in the merge. I've read that the remote that comes with the projector requires you to "cycle" through the inputs. But are there discrete codes for each individual input?