Official Sony VPL-HW30(A)ES Owners Thread - Page 74

I only found a download link to ID2. Where/How did you order ID3?

Cheers

Installed my HW30ES a week ago....have time to play with some setting and I know screenshot is not a perfect reference to show the actual output, but hey, it's fun...



the image:-

picture looks 'great' to me... but what do i know.. i still have an infocus 7210, and can't make up my mind whether to get the jvc45, this sony, or an infocus 8602 (2+ years old tech)... dont care about 3D... only use it for live sports, and the occassional movie... but your picture sure looks good...

Are you running windows 7 by chance? I can't install ID3 on my windows 7 laptop (it says "this OS is not supported" ). BUT, it runs on my xp desktop, which I don't want to lug into the media room. Quite annoying to say the least. It doesn't even run in "windows compatibility mode.

So I think I've made up my mind on this PJ for my new light controlled room and had a couple questions:

1. Do people use this PJ with a CIH system? If so, what lens are folks using?
2. Looks like the room might only be around 13' wide so I was looking at doing an AT screen - any recommendations to pair with this PJ?
3. Primary seating looks to be around 17' - how big is too big for a screen size? And how far back should this pj be mounted? I've looked at the calculator on projectorcentral.com, but I'm a bit confused at what I should be honing in on.

Thanks in advance.

I had the bulb flickering show up this weekend. I'm at around 115hrs. I've been running the bulb in low nearly the entire time. I switched the projector to high and the flickering disappeared. After about 30 min, I went back to low and the flickering had stopped.

I'd hate for this to become the norm for me. The projector is already plenty bright in low on my HP screen...

I did a little experimenting with creating and testing a direct cable btwn the HW30 (RJ45) and MV3D RF transmitter (VESA).

The HW30 RJ45 port pins 1&2 (reported to be +12VDC) measured only .05VDC. Inconsequential as these pins are not used for the MV RF emitter.

Pin 3 (emitter detect) measured at 3.25VDC, not high enough to drive the MV3D emitter which needs 5VDC, so this is simply bridged to ground (pins 7&8).

Pin 4 (sync sig) measured at 1.15 VDC with the emitter detect, or 0 volts if emitter was not detected.

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Powered the MV3D RF emitter using the USB port and the Sony glasses USB charger block provided as part of the AES package.

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With the direct cable connect (eliminating both the Sony emitter and the MV IR capture dongle), the sync tuning was only slightly better (less ghosting) than with the IR capture. There was a definite difference in the duty & delay needed, but the resulting output when each were tuned was very close.

Conclusion:

Based on the minuscule performance improvement when using the direct cable, eliminating the IR component is probably not justifiable unless eeking out the last drop of ghosting weighs heavily, or eliminating the IR blasting and Sony emitter is the ultimate goal. Also, by keeping the Sony IR in the mix, the standard Sony IR glasses (and others) may still be used.

Agreed. Wiring the Transceiver to use a hard connection is more trouble than it's worth. I updated the FW yesterday and used the utility to tune a set. Also if you have a Xbox the USB ports are always on at least on the newer units. I just plug the RF emitter into the Xbox when I watch 3D. One note though don't unplug the from the end on the emitter. I think it's low quality. I already had to bend some pins back. I need to contact Monster for a replacement.

I just found I messed up when posting those pics --- I duplicated an image! I've fixed them and made them bigger on my HW30 page.

First, for some reason I was under the impression that gamma 3 was a good one to use. However, you can see from the curve that it actually darkens stuff. See below. Notice how the curve is below the first horizontal and vertical hash mark.



Gamma 4 looks like a nice place to try out. Brightens the dark area just a little and then is pretty true to a 1-to-1.



All 6 gamma curves have been updated on my site...

Bottom line: I'm going to try out Gamma 4 and "Gamma Off" (which is a 1-to-1 line).

I've only tried with an old laptop running XP.

Darkening stuff is what higher gamma curves do.

You'll probably find that a straight line will be close to 2.2 (more or less), which is the de-facto "standard" calibration, but many prefer a steeper curve like a 2.4, which will be "darker".

What the steeper curves do is increase the difference between the brighter and darker aspects of the scene, which has the affect of increasing the scene's contrast and creating the perception of more depth.

That's what I was afraid of. I guess I could start by measuring my gamma to see if it's even worth it.

I'm really becoming comfortable with this projector though. The "oh crap, what's wrong...uniformity? focus? convergence? color? motion?" stage is finally passing and I'm just starting to watch the d**n thing. Mostly gaming. MW3, heck even Zelda looks nice and rich. Zelda, with sharpness at 10 and gamut wide 1 looks a LOT better than I though it would.

Also, the low lag feels good when trying to mode around the "cursor" with the wii motion plus. Definitely quicker than my 6500ub! It's nice to know all of the backend calibration available. This ID3 program, as well as the whole service menu gamma control, which is WAY daunting for a standard/non pro - no setup software having guy like me. BUT, give me my eye one pro and HCFR, and I can balance some gain/cut/RGB white balance like nobodies business!!!!

Presently I'm using the gamma 3 setting and quite like it. As soon as I get my i1pro I'll get into checking the gamma curves.

I can get ID3 to run on win7 but I haven't connected it to the HW30 yet, well I should say I connected it once and it shut down the HW30, so not sure what happened there. But I was waiting for my Sony laptop to come back, of course only to find it doesn't have a RS232 port. I'll retry my old Dell/win7 and see if it works.

Might be interesting for someone to try a USB -> Serial port adapter with ID3.

One would think that a brand new projector that included a piece of software (the latest version no doubt) would be windows 7 ready. I'm sure there's a way to get it working on my laptop, but it just "runs" on my desktop (XP) no problem. Also, I think you need some trickery to make a usb to serial work properly. I've read a few posts that said this seemingly easy connection didn't work as expected.

What's so hard about loading on a windows 7 PC (doesn't support mac ), and buying a usb-serial cable and just installing and it work?

That's what I do... USB Keyspan to serial...

Just picked up my HW30 and dropped off my Sony PRO1 (HW20) for the local dealer to sell on my behalf to offset the purchase of the 30. Still in the process of reading every post in this thread to help see the 'history' of what others have done/said. Going to target "settings" tonight to see what others have their 30 set at for optimum viewing specs.

The HW30 manual is pretty lame with regard to charging the JP1 glasses. I'm wondering...

1) How long should it take?
2) What should the LED on the glasses do while charging?
3) How do you know when they are fully charged?

I think the light turns off when fully charged. Is that right?

I read on another site they take 30 minutes to charge and last for 30 hours. Anyone confirm that?

I used WineBottler and have ID3 running on my Mac...


(I've only been using it to view gamma tables, but I have no reason to believe its wouldn't work with a USB serial dongle...)

Ok - out of the box, only turned the lamp to 'low' (but after i had fired it up) and OMG the 3D is A-MA-ZING! I popped in Avatar in 3D and it wooshed me back to when I saw it in 3D in the theater. Awesome and SO much better than my Mitsy73" 3D TV! Very happy - now I'm going to re-read the OP to see the tweaks posted and then move on.

Thanks, didn't know about this program. I'll check it out.

Awesome that you're enjoying it!
Let us know what settings you play with.

I should be able to check whether ID3 with Wine on a Mac actually connects to the PJ tonight...

Thanks! I only have a cat 5 cable and thanks to the OP stating it would work I hooked it up. Bad news is it's only @10 feet so right now my screen has a wire drifting through it! I ordered a 25 and 50' cat7 cable from 'zon and they will be here Friday to alleviate that issue. Right now I'm struggling to get the picture to 'fit' my screen. Are there any 'tricks' to easily 'calibrate' the shape/size of the picture to fit my screen? I spent over a half hour tilting, zooming in - then out, etc etc trying to get the picture to fit perfectly on my screen. I spent months with the Sony I just replaced getting it right so I'm wondering if there a tried and true method to get it to 'fit'?
PS - I'm going to search this thread and re-read the posts on what glasses work with this projector (besides the Sony ones).

I checked out your site since I LOVE pinball. I wish I had a machine of my very own!

Operating instructions for the model #TDG-PJ1 is the only other info available... http://www.docs.sony.com/reflib/docg...egion_id=1&DL=

Charging the battery
To prevent battery deterioration, charge the battery at least once every half a year or a year.
1 Turn the 3D Glasses power off.
2 Plug the USB charging AC power adaptor supplied with the projector into an AC outlet.
3 Connect the 3D Glasses and the USB charging AC power adaptor with the supplied USB cable. (Fig. )
 Open the cover.
 Connect the USB cable.
 Connect to the USB charging AC power adaptor.
 When connecting this product and the USB charging AC power adaptor with USB cable, this product will start to charge. (When charging, the LED indicator lights up yellow.)
 If you turn the power of this product on when charging the battery, charging will be stopped. (When operating, the indicator lights up green.)


Specifications
Battery Type Built-in lithium-ion rechargeable battery
Operating time Approx. 30 hours
Charging time Approx. 30 minutes (in case of charge with the USB charging AC power adaptor supplied with the projector)
* Quick charge: approx. 3 minutes charge enables approx. 3 hours use.

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I use a powered USB 7 port hub (2.6 Amp total) which enables charging multiple glasses at the same time (extra USB cables req'd. same type as MonsterVision/Optoma).

Sounds good. Awesome site BTW...up here at work we just recently aquired Elvis. Had a pinball tourney last night. Goodtimes!

The key is to remember that tilting the projector is how you turn a trapezoid into a rectangle. Once you have a rectangle, then use lens shift.

What I do is:
- ignore the actual screen and get the projected picture as rectangular as possible on the wall by physically aiming the projector left/right or tilting up/down to minimize the trapezoids. If the top is fatter than the bottom you need to aim downward more. If the left is bigger than the right, you need to aim further right. Physically aim the projector toward the smaller side until they're relatively the same size.
- once relatively rectangular, then you use the lens shift to move the projected image onto your screen.
- once it's where it should be, adjust the zoom to fit.
- go back to step one and work your way down the list again. Repeat as necessary.

I'm sad to say that while the program runs and you can load files and edit gamma, I couldn't get it to work my with USB serial adaptor.

I created the symbolic link, etc... but it just didn't work.

I suspect someone could get it working if they spent more time. It appears to "just" be a Wine configuration issue.

Glad to hear you checked it out. You might be surprised at the pin community in various parts of the country / world. Perhaps there is one around you...