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Official Sony VPL-HW30(A)ES Owners Thread - Page 88

post #2611 of 3212
I just wanted to say I am very impressed with this projector! This is my first projector I have owned and I have never had this immersive of a home theater experience! I now have to get a HDbaseT extender because I have signal drop to the projector.
post #2612 of 3212
Anyone ever take out the filter, prior to the PJ telling you, and see how it looks? I know different environments would yield different results... I was thinking about checking out mine.
post #2613 of 3212
1.

I have the standard Sony glasses with Infrared emitter but want to invest in a Monstervision setup, with an IR to RF converter. Optoma seems to be the equivalent to MV in Europe, so is this enough to convert to an RF signal for the MV glasses to work?:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Optoma-3D-RF-Glasses-and-Emitter/dp/tech-data/B005OPUEWU/ref=de_a_smtd

I'm confused because the picture on the MonsterVision website shows an even smaller thingy attached to the main small thingy by a wire. What does that do and do I need that as well?
http://www.monsterproducts.com/productdisplay.asp?pin=5938&id=9132

2.

Is there any known way to plug a MV RF emitter straight into the HW30 or does it HAVE to rely on a live conversion from a Sony IR emitter? (two emitters + IR/RF translation + USB charger = physically and technically messy). I remember a discussion on this thread where there was a special cable people could make to do something like this, but can't remember if it was related to this situation.

3.

I'd also be interested to hear from anyone that does or doesn't use the MonsterVision setup. Do most people consider it the best 3D glasses setup available for the HW30 or does anyone prefer other glasses for any reason?
.
Edited by GabrielKnight - 6/25/12 at 10:30am
post #2614 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by GabrielKnight View Post

1.
I have the standard Sony glasses with Infrared emitter but want to invest in a Monstervision setup, with an IR to RF converter. Optoma seems to be the equivalent to MV in Europe, so is this enough to convert to an RF signal for the MV glasses to work?:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Optoma-3D-RF-Glasses-and-Emitter/dp/tech-data/B005OPUEWU/ref=de_a_smtd
I'm confused because the picture on the MonsterVision website shows an even smaller thingy attached to the main small thingy by a wire. What does that do and do I need that as well?
http://www.monsterproducts.com/productdisplay.asp?pin=5938&id=9132
2.
Is there any known way to plug a MV RF emitter straight into the HW30 or does it HAVE to rely on a live conversion from a Sony IR emitter? (two emitters + IR/RF translation + USB charger = physically and technically messy). I remember a discussion on this thread where there was a special cable people could make to do something like this, but can't remember if it was related to this situation.
3.
I'd also be interested to hear from anyone that does or doesn't use the MonsterVision setup. Do most people consider it the best 3D glasses setup available for the HW30 or does anyone prefer other glasses for any reason?
.

I can answer most of your questions.

1. Optoma's glasses are basically same as the Monsters. However, I think Optoma doesn't have any IR at all, so you may need to purchase an IR receiver separately. The little dongle you see with an Optoma is a transmitter. That smaller thing that's attached to that dongle is an IR receiver. Also, these are glasses manufactured by the VIP. http://www.3d-vip.com Go to this website, look for 3D glasses and download the manual. You'll get a better idea on how this works.

Also, you can download firmware from Monster or VIP. I have Monster myself, but people seem to prefer VIP's firmware. I heard it's less buggy, but since Monster is working out well for me, I didn't bother changing the firmware. If you decide to convert, all you have to do is flash the RF emitter. Glasses will automatically download the firmware from the dongle and update itself.

2. Natively, you can't connect HW30ES to the RF emitter straight. I too remember seeing a hack where you can connect directly, but I haven't tried it myself. Good news is that IR to RF conversion works rather well.

3. I have to admit, these glasses works really well with the HW30ES. After a bit of tweaking, ghosting went away about 90% - 95%. I'm still not a big fan of 3D, but with these glasses, it is enjoyable. I also have 3D Sony XBR TV, and that thing is plagued by ghosting.

I hope this gives you somewhere to start. If you have any more questions, please feel free to ask.
post #2615 of 3212
Motivated by the "mess" that has the VPL-HW30ES Sony and the Blu-ray BDP-S790 Sony bought few days ago.

I hope this post for other projectors, plasmas ... and miscellaneous equipment!


Notes:
  1. Levels (values) below the "black video" 16 are called BTB (Blacker Than Black), referring to the levels (values) video between 0 and 15.
  2. Levels (values) of white above 235 are called WTW (Whiter Than White), referring to the levels (values) video from 236 to 255.
  3. When instead of calibrating at 16 to 235 is made ​​to 0 - 255/10 which is calibrated RGB levels (normal or reduced).
  4. In PC environments and photographic uses all the RGB levels given, from 0 to 255, so that the calibration is different (it is at levels of RGB). Therefore, it should see divisions (steps) beyond 16 and 235.
  5. Note that the DVDs, but are coded levels (values) between 16 - 235, may have information from 0 - 255.
  6. HD reduced range is used or, as I said above, the levels (values) video 16 -235. The standard Blu-ray and HDTV standard used as the gamut Rec. 709, which, at present, does not allow the use of full range.


Full range (extended) vs. limited range (Normal)

When people HDMI (Silicon Image) set the HDMI specification, laid down some ground rules. In accordance with Section 6.6 of the HDMI 1.3 specification document:

The black and white levels in video components will be either "Full Range" or "Limited Range." YCbCr components are always in the limited range while RGB components may be in the full range or limited range. Using RGB, the limited range is used for all video formats defined in CEA-861-D, with the exception of VGA (640x480) which requires Full Range.

Basically, YCbCr mode, the full signal range (0-255, which can be generated) is not permitted and specifies the values ​​of limited range (16-235 for sources of 8-bit color). At first analog sources and screens were considered 1-15 and 236-255 values, but merely YCbCr 16-235.




That said, we need to download and burn on a blank DVD, this disc calibration is free. The test time is 1 minute.
With the onscreen menu, go to "Luma Chroma" and select the pattern "BT B". We got to stop the shine and we should see one of the following screens:

IMAGE BTB (0 - 255)

450

NO IMAGE BTB (16 - 235)

450

What are these images?
Before you do anything in a calibration, the first thing is to check the range in which we move, ie, BTB = 0 - 255 or without BTB = 16 to 235 along the entire chain of visualization.
My chain: all sources (configured for the range 16 - 235) entering the AV receiver that I have it in "Through = Pass through (or pass-through)," the AV receiver output enters the Lumagen that I have in video mode (16 - 235); Lumagen outputs go to the projector (this is for free!) and plasma, respectively.
For example, if I put the Blu-ray what I see NO need to carry BTB. If you have to go back and check where it is misconfigured. This means that all elements must, where possible, set the same way.


We go with the Sony BDP-S350

450

450


450

450


450

450


450

450


450

450


Understandably in RGB (0 - 255) is where I have no BTB ... Explain it to me!


We go with the Sony BDP-S790

450

450


450

450


450

450


Here it is 'pa pee and take no drop'. There is no way to remove the BTB ... Of court!, Or the projector can (no option) or the player can (look like 2 options have been removed RGB).


Come to the Lumagen Radiance XS

450

450


These last two images correspond to the reproduction of Sony BDP-S790 with the Lumagen.
As we see We solve "aberration" in the Lumagen changing the video level by the level of PC!!

Look!, The player sends the video signal in the range of PC (0 - 255) that reaches the projector and this, because yes, the switch to low range (16 - 235). Never! had seen the same or similar. What impotence! ...


Yes I have not the Lumagen I do? Or change the player, and to wait for luck, or change your projector to avoid greater evils.




I wish that we have the Sony VPL-HW30ES particularly like us to contact each Sony so they know and rectify this anomaly. I remind you that the 'Pearl 2005' had the option to choose the range to solve these problems.
Edited by carpantata - 6/27/12 at 12:58pm
post #2616 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by mech27 View Post

That looks nice what size and type screen are you using

I have a Carada Criterion Brilliant White in 118". Great guys and built in the USA.
post #2617 of 3212
Which option stretches the image to my anamorphic lens?
post #2618 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by carpantata View Post

Which option stretches the image to my anamorphic lens?

The DVDO iScan Duo or Lumagen Mini 3D. The HW30AES does not do the vertical stretch. If you have any questions regarding the use of an A-lens with the HW30AES, shoot us an email.
Reply
Reply
post #2619 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

The DVDO iScan Duo or Lumagen Mini 3D. The HW30AES does not do the vertical stretch. If you have any questions regarding the use of an A-lens with the HW30AES, shoot us an email.


I CAN NOT BELIEVE ME!
post #2620 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by carpantata View Post

I CAN NOT BELIEVE ME!

Nor can I
post #2621 of 3212
You better believe it and you can take that to the bank!
post #2622 of 3212
@ carpantata: Any bigger font? Wow.

Its important to do research before you buy any projector so you won't be surprised like in this instance.
post #2623 of 3212
So is anyone using the Sony in 3D with a Stewart Firehawk screen? I have this green-red shift from left to right on the screen when wearing the glasses, only in the middle do the colors look normal. Anyone know how to avoid that or what it even is? Does it have to do with polarization?

Thanks,

-Christian
post #2624 of 3212
I have read a couple posts about this.

I cannot explain it myself. I though it was only a problem for passive 3d. With active glasses, I didn't think the screen made a difference since the glasses block l/r eyes. But it must be more complex than I'm thinking.
post #2625 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb42 View Post

So is anyone using the Sony in 3D with a Stewart Firehawk screen? I have this green-red shift from left to right on the screen when wearing the glasses, only in the middle do the colors look normal. Anyone know how to avoid that or what it even is? Does it have to do with polarization?

Thanks,

-Christian

I think that screen retains more polarization than matte white screens and even though the 3D on the projector is an active design some polarizers are used internally to help with contrast in all modes (not just 3D). Also even the active 3D glasses use polarizers to help with the ghosting effect. So what is most likely happening is the polarizers in the glasses and projector are interacting with each other due to the screen being used. I see this same effect very slightly on my matte white screen but it barely noticeable even on a bright white image while viewing 3D.
post #2626 of 3212
So I take it that this projector has no composite video input? I was wanting to watch a Laserdisc ever now and then.

Tom
post #2627 of 3212
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Monahan View Post

So I take it that this projector has no composite video input? I was wanting to watch a Laserdisc ever now and then.
Tom
No composite (or S-video) but it does have component. Many receivers offer analog to digital conversion (likely better than what's in the HW30) 's check for this and you will be all set. wink.gif
post #2628 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Monahan View Post

So I take it that this projector has no composite video input? I was wanting to watch a Laserdisc ever now and then.
Tom

I have 2 projectors with the S-video / Composite input (W7000 & the Acer 5360) and 2 without (RS55 and HW30). I recently showed some visitors my Pioneer CLD-99 on the big screen. On the 5360 and W7000, my Pioneer SC-07 AVR did a much better job than direct into the projectors. It must have a better comb filter than what's built into the projectors.

there is also inexpensive conversion boxes from S-video/composite -> component:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Composite-RCA-S-Video-to-Component-RGB-Video-Converter-/230684660505?pt=Video_Games_Accessories&hash=item35b5e09319#ht_2405wt_1192
post #2629 of 3212
While I do fondly remember LD, I just can't see LD being watchable once accustomed to high quality 1080p video. I can barely watch DVDs anymore. Though it is true that there is a lot of material on LD that probably won't make it to a HD source for a long long time if ever. I am eagerly anticipating the soon to be announced Lawrence of Arabia BD. After seeing what Sony did with Bridge on the River Kwai I have set the bar high.
post #2630 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toknowshita View Post

While I do fondly remember LD, I just can't see LD being watchable once accustomed to high quality 1080p video. I can barely watch DVDs anymore. Though it is true that there is a lot of material on LD that probably won't make it to a HD source for a long long time if ever. I am eagerly anticipating the soon to be announced Lawrence of Arabia BD. After seeing what Sony did with Bridge on the River Kwai I have set the bar high.

You might be surprised at how good some DVD's look if you have a good scaler. With my Lumagen, I have seen some good DVD's that look about as good as bad BD's.
Reply
Reply
post #2631 of 3212
Hello all-

I've had my HW30 for about 3 months now. I have been experience "reboots" with this projector, regardless of the source input (XBOX, DVD, WD LIVE etc). The unit just shuts off and powers itself back up, with no errors or other strange symptoms. It can happen 2 minutes after initial power on, or 2 hours after. The only common component is my Yamaha RX-A3000 AVR that has 2 HDMI cables going into the projector (it happens with both cables). Since the first days of ownership this problem has been around, yet it is completely random and I cannot reproduce it at at will. Has anyone else experienced this?

Thanks
Rob
post #2632 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by robgar1212 View Post

Hello all-
I've had my HW30 for about 3 months now. I have been experience "reboots" with this projector, regardless of the source input (XBOX, DVD, WD LIVE etc). The unit just shuts off and powers itself back up, with no errors or other strange symptoms. It can happen 2 minutes after initial power on, or 2 hours after. The only common component is my Yamaha RX-A3000 AVR that has 2 HDMI cables going into the projector (it happens with both cables). Since the first days of ownership this problem has been around, yet it is completely random and I cannot reproduce it at at will. Has anyone else experienced this?
Thanks
Rob

That's an odd problem --- sorry you are experiencing it.

I've followed this thread, as well as others discussing the HW30, and I'm pretty confident it hasn't been described before.

While I understand you cannot reproduce the problem on demand, if you feel like a little investigation I'd suggest removing Yamaha from the chain. I'm sure that's easier said than done as you are likely using the HDMI for audio to the receiver, rather than SPDIF.

There is a thread for your receiver here

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1267744/official-yamaha-rx-a1000-rx-a2000-rx-a3000-thread/3120

Perhaps it has some info... I quickly glanced at it and saw some HDMI problems.
post #2633 of 3212
Thanks for the quick response. You're right .. testing another receiver is easier said that done in a HT set up :-) .. and I just offloaded my only other HDMI AVR so I don't have another one to mess with. I'll do some research on the AVR .. I too suspect that is the source of this problem.

Thanks!
Rob
post #2634 of 3212
Hey guys I need some help.

We went out of town for the weekend and when I turned the projector on it will run for a while then shut down and restart. This has been going on for 10 or 15 minutes.

Any idea what is going on? We are not seeing any warnings on the screen prior to it going off. It is flashing 4 times which the book says "the fan is broken". What would make this happen?


Edit: Change it from "the lamp is broken" to "the fan is broken".
Edited by rgathright - 7/9/12 at 5:06pm
post #2635 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgathright View Post

Hey guys I need some help.
We went out of town for the weekend and when I turned the projector on it will run for a while then shut down and restart. This has been going on for 10 or 15 minutes.
Any idea what is going on? We are not seeing any warnings on the screen prior to it going off. It is flashing 4 times which the book says "the lamp is broken". What would make this happen?

The sad reality of projectors is that their lamps to break or die with age.

How many hours do you have on the lamp?

There was a post a while ago about someone what had the same problem and sent their projector to Sony. The outcome was, according to Sony, the project was fine and the lamp died.

No one wants to buy a new bulb, especially if you are not 100% sure that's the problem, but I think it's pretty likely. Others should chime in.
post #2636 of 3212
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by robgar1212 View Post

Thanks for the quick response. You're right .. testing another receiver is easier said that done in a HT set up :-) .. and I just offloaded my only other HDMI AVR so I don't have another one to mess with. I'll do some research on the AVR .. I too suspect that is the source of this problem.
Thanks!
Rob
Simple, connect your BD player directly to the HW30 and see if it happens. Of course you won't have sound but this could rule out the receiver or point towards it.
post #2637 of 3212
In my original post a few back from this one I typed "the lamp is broken" when it should have been "the fan is broken".
post #2638 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drakul View Post


Oh it helped a lot Jason! I went from AE7000 to RS-45 to finally settle on the HW30 thanks to you in depth, real world reviews.

Can you tell us why?

I know AE7000 ain't that good on blacks in general.

RS45 AFAIK has the lamp issues, calibration issues, is that true?
post #2639 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgathright View Post

In my original post a few back from this one I typed "the lamp is broken" when it should have been "the fan is broken".

Fan broken is how many hours? If is nearly new it must be something got stuck on it, try to check the air filter. I bet is something simple to solve.
post #2640 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gradius2 View Post

Can you tell us why?
I know AE7000 ain't that good on blacks in general.
RS45 AFAIK has the lamp issues, calibration issues, is that true?

Calibration issues on the RS-45 are minor, I was one of the few complainers about it, but I'm really really picky about calibration. I mean the projector is fine, it just doesn't have a full CMS like the Sony does so my first projector I owned without a full CMS and I felt kind of nelly-wigged like I was missing something. Lamp issues, well I don't think it is as bad as some of us expected.

My lamp dimmed down pretty far, but definitely still going ok at near 600 hours (not nearly as bright anymore though).
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