Official Sony VPL-HW30(A)ES Owners Thread - Page 88

I just wanted to say I am very impressed with this projector! This is my first projector I have owned and I have never had this immersive of a home theater experience! I now have to get a HDbaseT extender because I have signal drop to the projector.

Anyone ever take out the filter, prior to the PJ telling you, and see how it looks? I know different environments would yield different results... I was thinking about checking out mine.

1.

I have the standard Sony glasses with Infrared emitter but want to invest in a Monstervision setup, with an IR to RF converter. Optoma seems to be the equivalent to MV in Europe, so is this enough to convert to an RF signal for the MV glasses to work?:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Optoma-3D-RF-Glasses-and-Emitter/dp/tech-data/B005OPUEWU/ref=de_a_smtd

I'm confused because the picture on the MonsterVision website shows an even smaller thingy attached to the main small thingy by a wire. What does that do and do I need that as well?
http://www.monsterproducts.com/productdisplay.asp?pin=5938&id=9132

2.

Is there any known way to plug a MV RF emitter straight into the HW30 or does it HAVE to rely on a live conversion from a Sony IR emitter? (two emitters + IR/RF translation + USB charger = physically and technically messy). I remember a discussion on this thread where there was a special cable people could make to do something like this, but can't remember if it was related to this situation.

3.

I'd also be interested to hear from anyone that does or doesn't use the MonsterVision setup. Do most people consider it the best 3D glasses setup available for the HW30 or does anyone prefer other glasses for any reason?
.
Edited by GabrielKnight - 6/25/12 at 10:30am

I can answer most of your questions.

1. Optoma's glasses are basically same as the Monsters. However, I think Optoma doesn't have any IR at all, so you may need to purchase an IR receiver separately. The little dongle you see with an Optoma is a transmitter. That smaller thing that's attached to that dongle is an IR receiver. Also, these are glasses manufactured by the VIP. http://www.3d-vip.com Go to this website, look for 3D glasses and download the manual. You'll get a better idea on how this works.

Also, you can download firmware from Monster or VIP. I have Monster myself, but people seem to prefer VIP's firmware. I heard it's less buggy, but since Monster is working out well for me, I didn't bother changing the firmware. If you decide to convert, all you have to do is flash the RF emitter. Glasses will automatically download the firmware from the dongle and update itself.

2. Natively, you can't connect HW30ES to the RF emitter straight. I too remember seeing a hack where you can connect directly, but I haven't tried it myself. Good news is that IR to RF conversion works rather well.

3. I have to admit, these glasses works really well with the HW30ES. After a bit of tweaking, ghosting went away about 90% - 95%. I'm still not a big fan of 3D, but with these glasses, it is enjoyable. I also have 3D Sony XBR TV, and that thing is plagued by ghosting.

I hope this gives you somewhere to start. If you have any more questions, please feel free to ask.

Motivated by the "mess" that has the VPL-HW30ES Sony and the Blu-ray BDP-S790 Sony bought few days ago.

I hope this post for other projectors, plasmas ... and miscellaneous equipment!


Notes:

1. Levels (values) below the "black video" 16 are called BTB (Blacker Than Black), referring to the levels (values) video between 0 and 15.
2. Levels (values) of white above 235 are called WTW (Whiter Than White), referring to the levels (values) video from 236 to 255.
3. When instead of calibrating at 16 to 235 is made ​​to 0 - 255/10 which is calibrated RGB levels (normal or reduced).
4. In PC environments and photographic uses all the RGB levels given, from 0 to 255, so that the calibration is different (it is at levels of RGB). Therefore, it should see divisions (steps) beyond 16 and 235.
5. Note that the DVDs, but are coded levels (values) between 16 - 235, may have information from 0 - 255.
6. HD reduced range is used or, as I said above, the levels (values) video 16 -235. The standard Blu-ray and HDTV standard used as the gamut Rec. 709, which, at present, does not allow the use of full range.

Full range (extended) vs. limited range (Normal)

When people HDMI (Silicon Image) set the HDMI specification, laid down some ground rules. In accordance with Section 6.6 of the HDMI 1.3 specification document:

The black and white levels in video components will be either "Full Range" or "Limited Range." YCbCr components are always in the limited range while RGB components may be in the full range or limited range. Using RGB, the limited range is used for all video formats defined in CEA-861-D, with the exception of VGA (640x480) which requires Full Range.

Basically, YCbCr mode, the full signal range (0-255, which can be generated) is not permitted and specifies the values ​​of limited range (16-235 for sources of 8-bit color). At first analog sources and screens were considered 1-15 and 236-255 values, but merely YCbCr 16-235.




That said, we need to download and burn on a blank DVD, this disc calibration is free. The test time is 1 minute.
With the onscreen menu, go to "Luma Chroma" and select the pattern "BT B". We got to stop the shine and we should see one of the following screens:

IMAGE BTB (0 - 255)



NO IMAGE BTB (16 - 235)



What are these images?
Before you do anything in a calibration, the first thing is to check the range in which we move, ie, BTB = 0 - 255 or without BTB = 16 to 235 along the entire chain of visualization.
My chain: all sources (configured for the range 16 - 235) entering the AV receiver that I have it in "Through = Pass through (or pass-through)," the AV receiver output enters the Lumagen that I have in video mode (16 - 235); Lumagen outputs go to the projector (this is for free!) and plasma, respectively.
For example, if I put the Blu-ray what I see NO need to carry BTB. If you have to go back and check where it is misconfigured. This means that all elements must, where possible, set the same way.


We go with the Sony BDP-S350


























Understandably in RGB (0 - 255) is where I have no BTB ... Explain it to me!


We go with the Sony BDP-S790
















Here it is 'pa pee and take no drop'. There is no way to remove the BTB ... Of court!, Or the projector can (no option) or the player can (look like 2 options have been removed RGB).


Come to the Lumagen Radiance XS






These last two images correspond to the reproduction of Sony BDP-S790 with the Lumagen.
As we see We solve "aberration" in the Lumagen changing the video level by the level of PC!!

Look!, The player sends the video signal in the range of PC (0 - 255) that reaches the projector and this, because yes, the switch to low range (16 - 235). Never! had seen the same or similar. What impotence! ...


Yes I have not the Lumagen I do? Or change the player, and to wait for luck, or change your projector to avoid greater evils.




I wish that we have the Sony VPL-HW30ES particularly like us to contact each Sony so they know and rectify this anomaly. I remind you that the 'Pearl 2005' had the option to choose the range to solve these problems.
Edited by carpantata - 6/27/12 at 12:58pm

I have a Carada Criterion Brilliant White in 118". Great guys and built in the USA.

I CAN NOT BELIEVE ME!

Nor can I

You better believe it and you can take that to the bank!

@ carpantata: Any bigger font? Wow.

Its important to do research before you buy any projector so you won't be surprised like in this instance.

So is anyone using the Sony in 3D with a Stewart Firehawk screen? I have this green-red shift from left to right on the screen when wearing the glasses, only in the middle do the colors look normal. Anyone know how to avoid that or what it even is? Does it have to do with polarization?

Thanks,

-Christian

I have read a couple posts about this.

I cannot explain it myself. I though it was only a problem for passive 3d. With active glasses, I didn't think the screen made a difference since the glasses block l/r eyes. But it must be more complex than I'm thinking.

I think that screen retains more polarization than matte white screens and even though the 3D on the projector is an active design some polarizers are used internally to help with contrast in all modes (not just 3D). Also even the active 3D glasses use polarizers to help with the ghosting effect. So what is most likely happening is the polarizers in the glasses and projector are interacting with each other due to the screen being used. I see this same effect very slightly on my matte white screen but it barely noticeable even on a bright white image while viewing 3D.

So I take it that this projector has no composite video input? I was wanting to watch a Laserdisc ever now and then.

Tom

I have 2 projectors with the S-video / Composite input (W7000 & the Acer 5360) and 2 without (RS55 and HW30). I recently showed some visitors my Pioneer CLD-99 on the big screen. On the 5360 and W7000, my Pioneer SC-07 AVR did a much better job than direct into the projectors. It must have a better comb filter than what's built into the projectors.

there is also inexpensive conversion boxes from S-video/composite -> component:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Composite-RCA-S-Video-to-Component-RGB-Video-Converter-/230684660505?pt=Video_Games_Accessories&hash=item35b5e09319#ht_2405wt_1192

While I do fondly remember LD, I just can't see LD being watchable once accustomed to high quality 1080p video. I can barely watch DVDs anymore. Though it is true that there is a lot of material on LD that probably won't make it to a HD source for a long long time if ever. I am eagerly anticipating the soon to be announced Lawrence of Arabia BD. After seeing what Sony did with Bridge on the River Kwai I have set the bar high.

Hello all-

I've had my HW30 for about 3 months now. I have been experience "reboots" with this projector, regardless of the source input (XBOX, DVD, WD LIVE etc). The unit just shuts off and powers itself back up, with no errors or other strange symptoms. It can happen 2 minutes after initial power on, or 2 hours after. The only common component is my Yamaha RX-A3000 AVR that has 2 HDMI cables going into the projector (it happens with both cables). Since the first days of ownership this problem has been around, yet it is completely random and I cannot reproduce it at at will. Has anyone else experienced this?

Thanks
Rob

That's an odd problem --- sorry you are experiencing it.

I've followed this thread, as well as others discussing the HW30, and I'm pretty confident it hasn't been described before.

While I understand you cannot reproduce the problem on demand, if you feel like a little investigation I'd suggest removing Yamaha from the chain. I'm sure that's easier said than done as you are likely using the HDMI for audio to the receiver, rather than SPDIF.

There is a thread for your receiver here

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1267744/official-yamaha-rx-a1000-rx-a2000-rx-a3000-thread/3120

Perhaps it has some info... I quickly glanced at it and saw some HDMI problems.

Thanks for the quick response. You're right .. testing another receiver is easier said that done in a HT set up :-) .. and I just offloaded my only other HDMI AVR so I don't have another one to mess with. I'll do some research on the AVR .. I too suspect that is the source of this problem.

Thanks!
Rob

Hey guys I need some help.

We went out of town for the weekend and when I turned the projector on it will run for a while then shut down and restart. This has been going on for 10 or 15 minutes.

Any idea what is going on? We are not seeing any warnings on the screen prior to it going off. It is flashing 4 times which the book says "the fan is broken". What would make this happen?


Edit: Change it from "the lamp is broken" to "the fan is broken".
Edited by rgathright - 7/9/12 at 5:06pm

The sad reality of projectors is that their lamps to break or die with age.

How many hours do you have on the lamp?

There was a post a while ago about someone what had the same problem and sent their projector to Sony. The outcome was, according to Sony, the project was fine and the lamp died.

No one wants to buy a new bulb, especially if you are not 100% sure that's the problem, but I think it's pretty likely. Others should chime in.

In my original post a few back from this one I typed "the lamp is broken" when it should have been "the fan is broken".

Can you tell us why?

I know AE7000 ain't that good on blacks in general.

RS45 AFAIK has the lamp issues, calibration issues, is that true?

Fan broken is how many hours? If is nearly new it must be something got stuck on it, try to check the air filter. I bet is something simple to solve.

Calibration issues on the RS-45 are minor, I was one of the few complainers about it, but I'm really really picky about calibration. I mean the projector is fine, it just doesn't have a full CMS like the Sony does so my first projector I owned without a full CMS and I felt kind of nelly-wigged like I was missing something. Lamp issues, well I don't think it is as bad as some of us expected.

My lamp dimmed down pretty far, but definitely still going ok at near 600 hours (not nearly as bright anymore though).