Official Sony VPL-HW30(A)ES Owners Thread - Page 89

Originally Posted by Gradius2 

Fan broken is how many hours? If is nearly new it must be something got stuck on it, try to check the air filter. I bet is something simple to solve.

Originally Posted by rgathright 

After rechecking and blowing on the fan to see if it will turn the projector worked. I only tested it for about 20 minutes, but will do a longer test tonight.

Originally Posted by rgathright 

I set it up this evening in the den with a blu-ray and it worked fine for about 2 hours when I turned it off.

Originally Posted by gnolivos 

Can the firmware be upgraded on the HW30? If so, does it have to be sent to Sony, or can user's do this themselves?

Originally Posted by naamanf 

I'm looking to do direct IR control through the cable port via an iTach and Roomie. I assumed it would just require a mono 3.5mm cable between the two but it doesn't work. It works fine if used with an IR emitter, any ideas? Stereo cable?

Originally Posted by blinco_wa 

Don't know if this is the right place for this but I have been scouring the forums for reported areas of the screen that have green / magenta hues only when viewing through the 3D glasses (glasses don't even have to be powered up).

On the thread by Ron Jones, he talked about polarization retention by the screen material and I saw some images from owners there that had a screen that looked just like mine.

This isn't my projector but mine looked just like this.



After many hours trying to get information from Stewart Filmscreen (I have an old microperf Ultramatte 150 - circa 1997) I finally got a local dealer to bring our several screen samples (including the Studiotek 130 G3 - which has been reported to eliminate most of the color hue issues).

After all that, none of the materials eliminated the problem. It was there with the 3D glasses that came with the projector, a pair of glasses that came with a play station 3D monitor and a pair of glasses from Monster.

I was about to plunk down almost 5K for a new screen when, out of frustration, I call esupport at Sony and the support person sent me a 'lens cap' with a rectangular window in it and some material that looked like it had a coating on it.

IT WORKED. The 3D images are free of 99.99% of any color hue shifting and I saved $5K. The lens cap was free (though I shouldn't call it a lens cap). Sony didn't say what they called it and it came in a small mailer wrapped in bubble wrap with multilingual instructions for 'Mounting the Lens Filter". It is clear and does not alter the light output not does it affect 2D images.

Just thought I would pass this along in case someone was about to spend mega bucks on a new screen.

Originally Posted by blinco_wa 

Don't know if this is the right place for this but I have been scouring the forums for reported areas of the screen that have green / magenta hues only when viewing through the 3D glasses (glasses don't even have to be powered up).
On the thread by Ron Jones, he talked about polarization retention by the screen material and I saw some images from owners there that had a screen that looked just like mine.
This isn't my projector but mine looked just like this.

After many hours trying to get information from Stewart Filmscreen (I have an old microperf Ultramatte 150 - circa 1997) I finally got a local dealer to bring our several screen samples (including the Studiotek 130 G3 - which has been reported to eliminate most of the color hue issues).
After all that, none of the materials eliminated the problem. It was there with the 3D glasses that came with the projector, a pair of glasses that came with a play station 3D monitor and a pair of glasses from Monster.
I was about to plunk down almost 5K for a new screen when, out of frustration, I call esupport at Sony and the support person sent me a 'lens cap' with a rectangular window in it and some material that looked like it had a coating on it.
IT WORKED. The 3D images are free of 99.99% of any color hue shifting and I saved $5K. The lens cap was free (though I shouldn't call it a lens cap). Sony didn't say what they called it and it came in a small mailer wrapped in bubble wrap with multilingual instructions for 'Mounting the Lens Filter". It is clear and does not alter the light output not does it affect 2D images.
Just thought I would pass this along in case someone was about to spend mega bucks on a new screen.

Originally Posted by Johnrecon 

Try the Elite calculator http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com/
It will give you an idea about FL output.

Originally Posted by EtherMagic 

I bought an Elite 110 inch Sable Fixed Frame Screen with a 1.1 gain, and I am a bit worried it may not be bright enough for my needs as I am big into 3D.

The good news...My theater room can literally be a batcave, when the lights go out, it is darker then dark, good luck finding your way out when the lights go out, you are as blind as a bat! I will also be positioning the HW30 as close as possible (around 11-1/2 feet from screen) to get the highest amount of brightness possible out of the HW30 bulb. Also, all walls are painted black, and flooring is black as-well.

My question is ...does anyone feel I should return this screen and get something with a higher gain for my 3D viewing??? As I stated, I do have a batcave, and I will be positioning the projector as close as possible, I'm just worried it may not be bright enough for my needs? If it's at-least as bright as in the theaters I can live with it, I'm just worried that with such a low gain screen (1.1 is not that bad, but reading here about all these folks who own 2.2 and-2.4 gain screens got me a bit jeolous! lol) it may not be enough.

I was trying to save money with buying this screen (it was around $300), as it did get great reviews from buyers.

Thanks guys, and BTW this is my first projector, so any comments/help would be greatly appreciated!

Paul

Originally Posted by zombie10k 

Paul, the 3D glasses use up nearly 80% of the light that is being reflected off the screen. This doesn't leave much left over with a low gains screen - even in a bat cave. Some say our eyes with 'adjust' but that doesn't work for me.. I want it to be as bright as possible in 3D mode since I find it too dark in most 3D cinemas in my area.
The 2.4 is a great match for the HW30 - assuming you can get the projector on table or shelf mount, with the projector as close to eye level as possible for maximum gain. I recently set up an HW30 and a 106" Dalite Cinema Contour 2.4 for a friend. It's a low basement ceiling and the projector is about 2 feet above the head, 3D looks great with this setup.
If your a big fan of 3D and want it as bright as possible, the HP makes sense. Now it's a matter of figuring out how to get the projector in the best possible location for maximum gain.

Originally Posted by zombie10k 

Paul, the 3D glasses use up nearly 80% of the light that is being reflected off the screen. This doesn't leave much left over with a low gains screen - even in a bat cave. Some say our eyes with 'adjust' but that doesn't work for me.. I want it to be as bright as possible in 3D mode since I find it too dark in most 3D cinemas in my area.
The 2.4 is a great match for the HW30 - assuming you can get the projector on table or shelf mount, with the projector as close to eye level as possible for maximum gain. I recently set up an HW30 and a 106" Dalite Cinema Contour 2.4 for a friend. It's a low basement ceiling and the projector is about 2 feet above the head, 3D looks great with this setup.
If your a big fan of 3D and want it as bright as possible, the HP makes sense. Now it's a matter of figuring out how to get the projector in the best possible location for maximum gain.

Originally Posted by Wryker 

My screen is a 1.0 gain matte white and my projector is the minimum distance it can be from my 106" screen and 3D is plenty bright in my man cave.