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Official Sony VPL-HW30(A)ES Owners Thread - Page 89

post #2641 of 3213
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gradius2 View Post

Fan broken is how many hours? If is nearly new it must be something got stuck on it, try to check the air filter. I bet is something simple to solve.

I pulled the filter out to check, but did not see anything. I have had it for 10 months and we use it everyday as our everyday TV. I will check it again, before shipping it. It appears that I have to pay my own shipping.
post #2642 of 3213
After rechecking and blowing on the fan to see if it will turn the projector worked. I only tested it for about 20 minutes, but will do a longer test tonight.
post #2643 of 3213
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgathright View Post

After rechecking and blowing on the fan to see if it will turn the projector worked. I only tested it for about 20 minutes, but will do a longer test tonight.

You can try those air can duster to clean around the vents, but since is 10 months old I would use the warranty. It can be a flawed cooler too.

If unlucky, the temp (or rpm) sensor can be the culprit.
Edited by Gradius2 - 7/11/12 at 10:01am
post #2644 of 3213
I set it up this evening in the den with a blu-ray and it worked fine for about 2 hours when I turned it off.
post #2645 of 3213
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgathright View Post

I set it up this evening in the den with a blu-ray and it worked fine for about 2 hours when I turned it off.

Crossing my fingers for ya!
post #2646 of 3213
I set it back up in the regular living room location yesterday and it worked all day with no issues.
post #2647 of 3213
Can the firmware be upgraded on the HW30? If so, does it have to be sent to Sony, or can user's do this themselves?
post #2648 of 3213
Quote:
Originally Posted by gnolivos View Post

Can the firmware be upgraded on the HW30? If so, does it have to be sent to Sony, or can user's do this themselves?

I have not heard of anyone say there is or has been a firmware upgrade, so I'm doubtful anyone would really know (since there isn't anything to upgrade to!)

But it has a serial port connection, and there is lots of interesting stuff you can do with it (from commands to gamma adjustment), so I wouldn't be surprised if the ability to upgrade firmware was hiding in there somewhere.
post #2649 of 3213
No FW upgrade available is very odd, given Sony's reputation and history of proividing FW for devices like Bluray Players, PS3, etc etc. But thatnks for the response!
post #2650 of 3213
There is a newer firmware. 1.03 i believe. That fixes some issues with the color control. I read about it on another forum. But it seems that only repair centers do it.
post #2651 of 3213
Does this projector have the option to do stretching so you can put an anamorphic lens if front of it for doing scope movies?
post #2652 of 3213
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MAZMAN808 View Post

Does this projector have the option to do stretching so you can put an anamorphic lens if front of it for doing scope movies?
No it doesn't.
post #2653 of 3213
Very sad the manual only mention 4:3 & 16:9 aspect ratios.
post #2654 of 3213
I'm looking to do direct IR control through the cable port via an iTach and Roomie. I assumed it would just require a mono 3.5mm cable between the two but it doesn't work. It works fine if used with an IR emitter, any ideas? Stereo cable?
post #2655 of 3213
Quote:
Originally Posted by naamanf View Post

I'm looking to do direct IR control through the cable port via an iTach and Roomie. I assumed it would just require a mono 3.5mm cable between the two but it doesn't work. It works fine if used with an IR emitter, any ideas? Stereo cable?

It may not work. 99% of the time IR is TS, so a TRS (stereo) cable won't likely be the answer. I suppose it could be one of the pieces used a stereo connector, and perhaps used the ring and sleeve instead, or such. If that were the case you would have to make a custom cable.

But more than likely, it is a limitation of the control. IR via emitters behaves just like a normal remote. But sometimes a certain piece of equipment, with a direct IR in, requires a slightly different configuration to work. That might be the issue, since very few control options (other than things like Control4/Crestron) can be setup to do that special type of IR direct send, when needed.
post #2656 of 3213
Don't know if this is the right place for this but I have been scouring the forums for reported areas of the screen that have green / magenta hues only when viewing through the 3D glasses (glasses don't even have to be powered up).

On the thread by Ron Jones, he talked about polarization retention by the screen material and I saw some images from owners there that had a screen that looked just like mine.

This isn't my projector but mine looked just like this.



After many hours trying to get information from Stewart Filmscreen (I have an old microperf Ultramatte 150 - circa 1997) I finally got a local dealer to bring our several screen samples (including the Studiotek 130 G3 - which has been reported to eliminate most of the color hue issues).

After all that, none of the materials eliminated the problem. It was there with the 3D glasses that came with the projector, a pair of glasses that came with a play station 3D monitor and a pair of glasses from Monster.

I was about to plunk down almost 5K for a new screen when, out of frustration, I call esupport at Sony and the support person sent me a 'lens cap' with a rectangular window in it and some material that looked like it had a coating on it.

IT WORKED. The 3D images are free of 99.99% of any color hue shifting and I saved $5K. The lens cap was free (though I shouldn't call it a lens cap). Sony didn't say what they called it and it came in a small mailer wrapped in bubble wrap with multilingual instructions for 'Mounting the Lens Filter". It is clear and does not alter the light output not does it affect 2D images.

Just thought I would pass this along in case someone was about to spend mega bucks on a new screen.
Edited by blinco_wa - 7/18/12 at 11:00pm
post #2657 of 3213
Thanks for sharing!
Quote:
Originally Posted by blinco_wa View Post

Don't know if this is the right place for this but I have been scouring the forums for reported areas of the screen that have green / magenta hues only when viewing through the 3D glasses (glasses don't even have to be powered up).

On the thread by Ron Jones, he talked about polarization retention by the screen material and I saw some images from owners there that had a screen that looked just like mine.

This isn't my projector but mine looked just like this.



After many hours trying to get information from Stewart Filmscreen (I have an old microperf Ultramatte 150 - circa 1997) I finally got a local dealer to bring our several screen samples (including the Studiotek 130 G3 - which has been reported to eliminate most of the color hue issues).

After all that, none of the materials eliminated the problem. It was there with the 3D glasses that came with the projector, a pair of glasses that came with a play station 3D monitor and a pair of glasses from Monster.

I was about to plunk down almost 5K for a new screen when, out of frustration, I call esupport at Sony and the support person sent me a 'lens cap' with a rectangular window in it and some material that looked like it had a coating on it.

IT WORKED. The 3D images are free of 99.99% of any color hue shifting and I saved $5K. The lens cap was free (though I shouldn't call it a lens cap). Sony didn't say what they called it and it came in a small mailer wrapped in bubble wrap with multilingual instructions for 'Mounting the Lens Filter". It is clear and does not alter the light output not does it affect 2D images.

Just thought I would pass this along in case someone was about to spend mega bucks on a new screen.
post #2658 of 3213
Is there a part number on the 'lens cap' itself? I would love to get rid of the tint shifting. :-)
post #2659 of 3213
I saw this lens cap at my local dealer. I thought it was an anamorphic lens at first because of the wedge/triangular shape. The dealer told me it was for reducing the light spill.
post #2660 of 3213
That's exacctly what I need as well. What number did you call? Feel free to PM me.

Thanks,

-Christian

PS: Just called them, and they are sending me the filter as well. Thanks again for the info!
Edited by chrisb42 - 7/23/12 at 8:44am
post #2661 of 3213
Quote:
Originally Posted by blinco_wa View Post

Don't know if this is the right place for this but I have been scouring the forums for reported areas of the screen that have green / magenta hues only when viewing through the 3D glasses (glasses don't even have to be powered up).
On the thread by Ron Jones, he talked about polarization retention by the screen material and I saw some images from owners there that had a screen that looked just like mine.
This isn't my projector but mine looked just like this.

After many hours trying to get information from Stewart Filmscreen (I have an old microperf Ultramatte 150 - circa 1997) I finally got a local dealer to bring our several screen samples (including the Studiotek 130 G3 - which has been reported to eliminate most of the color hue issues).
After all that, none of the materials eliminated the problem. It was there with the 3D glasses that came with the projector, a pair of glasses that came with a play station 3D monitor and a pair of glasses from Monster.
I was about to plunk down almost 5K for a new screen when, out of frustration, I call esupport at Sony and the support person sent me a 'lens cap' with a rectangular window in it and some material that looked like it had a coating on it.
IT WORKED. The 3D images are free of 99.99% of any color hue shifting and I saved $5K. The lens cap was free (though I shouldn't call it a lens cap). Sony didn't say what they called it and it came in a small mailer wrapped in bubble wrap with multilingual instructions for 'Mounting the Lens Filter". It is clear and does not alter the light output not does it affect 2D images.
Just thought I would pass this along in case someone was about to spend mega bucks on a new screen.


This happen only if one is using a non white matte screen. The lens filter improve the polarization and thus remove those effect on grey, high-gain screen.....
post #2662 of 3213
Quick question if someone can please help me out here...


As I posted on the last page, I purchased the Sony Hw30 but cannot set it up yet as my Theater room is being remodeled at the moment, I also bought 2 pairs on monster vision glasses to go along with the Sony glasses.


I bought an Elite 110 inch Sable Fixed Frame Screen with a 1.1 gain, and I am a bit worried it may not be bright enough for my needs as I am big into 3D.


The good news...My theater room can literally be a batcave, when the lights go out, it is darker then dark, good luck finding your way out when the lights go out, you are as blind as a bat! I will also be positioning the HW30 as close as possible (around 11-1/2 feet from screen) to get the highest amount of brightness possible out of the HW30 bulb. Also, all walls are painted black, and flooring is black as-well.


My question is ...does anyone feel I should return this screen and get something with a higher gain for my 3D viewing??? As I stated, I do have a batcave, and I will be positioning the projector as close as possible, I'm just worried it may not be bright enough for my needs? If it's at-least as bright as in the theaters I can live with it, I'm just worried that with such a low gain screen (1.1 is not that bad, but reading here about all these folks who own 2.2 and-2.4 gain screens got me a bit jeolous! lol) it may not be enough.


I was trying to save money with buying this screen (it was around $300), as it did get great reviews from buyers.


Thanks guys, and BTW this is my first projector, so any comments/help would be greatly appreciated!



Paul
post #2663 of 3213
Try the Elite calculator http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com/
It will give you an idea about FL output.
post #2664 of 3213
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnrecon View Post

Try the Elite calculator http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com/
It will give you an idea about FL output.



Thanks for that!


I am having a hard time reading that chart, I will try to figure this out! lol



Thanks again brother


Paul
Edited by EtherMagic - 7/22/12 at 5:56am
post #2665 of 3213
Quote:
Originally Posted by EtherMagic View Post

I bought an Elite 110 inch Sable Fixed Frame Screen with a 1.1 gain, and I am a bit worried it may not be bright enough for my needs as I am big into 3D.

The good news...My theater room can literally be a batcave, when the lights go out, it is darker then dark, good luck finding your way out when the lights go out, you are as blind as a bat! I will also be positioning the HW30 as close as possible (around 11-1/2 feet from screen) to get the highest amount of brightness possible out of the HW30 bulb. Also, all walls are painted black, and flooring is black as-well.

My question is ...does anyone feel I should return this screen and get something with a higher gain for my 3D viewing??? As I stated, I do have a batcave, and I will be positioning the projector as close as possible, I'm just worried it may not be bright enough for my needs? If it's at-least as bright as in the theaters I can live with it, I'm just worried that with such a low gain screen (1.1 is not that bad, but reading here about all these folks who own 2.2 and-2.4 gain screens got me a bit jeolous! lol) it may not be enough.

I was trying to save money with buying this screen (it was around $300), as it did get great reviews from buyers.

Thanks guys, and BTW this is my first projector, so any comments/help would be greatly appreciated!

Paul

Paul, the 3D glasses use up nearly 80% of the light that is being reflected off the screen. This doesn't leave much left over with a low gains screen - even in a bat cave. Some say our eyes with 'adjust' but that doesn't work for me.. I want it to be as bright as possible in 3D mode since I find it too dark in most 3D cinemas in my area.

The 2.4 is a great match for the HW30 - assuming you can get the projector on table or shelf mount, with the projector as close to eye level as possible for maximum gain. I recently set up an HW30 and a 106" Dalite Cinema Contour 2.4 for a friend. It's a low basement ceiling and the projector is about 2 feet above the head, 3D looks great with this setup.

If your a big fan of 3D and want it as bright as possible, the HP makes sense. Now it's a matter of figuring out how to get the projector in the best possible location for maximum gain.
post #2666 of 3213
Zombie,


Earlier in the thread you said that you found some settings on your Monster glasses that virtually eliminated all ghosting, but I couldn't find any further information on what settings you used.

Any chance you could share these settings as I've imported 6 sets of MV glasses from US to UK, but I'm still experiencing a lot of ghosting?
post #2667 of 3213
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

Paul, the 3D glasses use up nearly 80% of the light that is being reflected off the screen. This doesn't leave much left over with a low gains screen - even in a bat cave. Some say our eyes with 'adjust' but that doesn't work for me.. I want it to be as bright as possible in 3D mode since I find it too dark in most 3D cinemas in my area.
The 2.4 is a great match for the HW30 - assuming you can get the projector on table or shelf mount, with the projector as close to eye level as possible for maximum gain. I recently set up an HW30 and a 106" Dalite Cinema Contour 2.4 for a friend. It's a low basement ceiling and the projector is about 2 feet above the head, 3D looks great with this setup.
If your a big fan of 3D and want it as bright as possible, the HP makes sense. Now it's a matter of figuring out how to get the projector in the best possible location for maximum gain.

My screen is a 1.0 gain matte white and my projector is the minimum distance it can be from my 106" screen and 3D is plenty bright in my man cave.
post #2668 of 3213
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

Paul, the 3D glasses use up nearly 80% of the light that is being reflected off the screen. This doesn't leave much left over with a low gains screen - even in a bat cave. Some say our eyes with 'adjust' but that doesn't work for me.. I want it to be as bright as possible in 3D mode since I find it too dark in most 3D cinemas in my area.
The 2.4 is a great match for the HW30 - assuming you can get the projector on table or shelf mount, with the projector as close to eye level as possible for maximum gain. I recently set up an HW30 and a 106" Dalite Cinema Contour 2.4 for a friend. It's a low basement ceiling and the projector is about 2 feet above the head, 3D looks great with this setup.
If your a big fan of 3D and want it as bright as possible, the HP makes sense. Now it's a matter of figuring out how to get the projector in the best possible location for maximum gain.


Thanks Zombie, was hoping "YOU" would answer me!!! biggrin.gif


I finally got around to fully understanding the Chart that "JohnRecon" posted a couple post up, and you are right IMO (and in the opinion of the chart as-well). A 110-inch screen at 1.1 gain I would only be giving me 9fL (and only 7fL after 500 hrs). I am currently looking at a 100-inch 1.8 gain Elite screen (here... http://www.amazon.com/Elite-Screens-ER100GH1-Projection-Screen/dp/B00856XG2K/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=DQ5HM5YNIIZS&coliid=I3NZ1T0TU3RENY ) , I would be dropping 10-inches off the screen size.. but check it... With 100-inch screen 1.8 gain at minimum distance I would be getting a whopping 18fL (14fL after 500 hrs on lamp) , I am basically doubling my Lumen count!!!


My theater room is small anyway, with my ceilings being a tad shy of 7-feet, a 110-inch screen would take up the entire wall it would be on, going with a 100-incher leaves me a little space to put my speakers next too the screen (very tall thin speakers). So all in all, I am sacrificing screen size for brightness, and I am more then happy to do this if I can get a brighter screen.


I checked out them De-Lite HP screens and those are out of my budget at the moment, I was actually looking for a 110-inch 1.8 gain screen with NO luck, the only one I could find was the 100-inch Elite I posted above.


Zombie, please check out that Elite I posted the link too and tell me what you think? My budget is $600 on a screen brother.


Thanks man!


Paul
post #2669 of 3213
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wryker View Post

My screen is a 1.0 gain matte white and my projector is the minimum distance it can be from my 106" screen and 3D is plenty bright in my man cave.


I believe you, and thanks for the response! smile.gif I think the thing I am trina make up for is the fact that I was originally going to get the Epson 5010, but because of the noise and lag (I'm a big gamer) I ended up going with the Sony. Basically, by me getting a 1.8 gain 100-inch screen I feel I am making up for the Lumens I lost in 3D mode that I would have been getting with the Epson... AND I AM!!!


Check this out brother..... Go pull up that Chart that "JohnRecon" posted a couple post up, put in the Epson 5010 with a 100-inch screen, put the Projector at minmum distance, but instead of putting the gain at 1.8 (as I did with the Sony), put in a 1.1 gain screen, and.....WALLA!!!! The Epson at minimum distance with a 1.1 gain screen gives the identical FL numbers as the Sony does at minimum with a 1.8 gain screen, both give you 18fL and14fL @500 hrs in 3D mode!


SWEET!!!



Paul
post #2670 of 3213
Those numbers seems nice, cant comment on the screen though.

I had a HW30 for a couple of days. My walls/ceiling are white, my screen is 92", gain 1.0 and I have the PJ at the closest for that size ( little under 10ft )
for me, it was bright enough to enjoy a 3D flick.

Really liked the HW30, compared to my old HW10. But im looking for a bigger step up. A VW95 or wait if JVC fixes their 3D in their next PJ.

Good luck!
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