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Official Sony VPL-HW30(A)ES Owners Thread - Page 90

post #2671 of 2970
7/24/12 at 2:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnrecon View Post

Those numbers seems nice, cant comment on the screen though.
I had a HW30 for a couple of days. My walls/ceiling are white, my screen is 92", gain 1.0 and I have the PJ at the closest for that size ( little under 10ft )
for me, it was bright enough to enjoy a 3D flick.
Really liked the HW30, compared to my old HW10. But im looking for a bigger step up. A VW95 or wait if JVC fixes their 3D in their next PJ.
Good luck!

What was your reasoning for not sticking with the HW30?

Please do not take me wrong, but maybe you did not experiment with the HW30 as long as you should have to appreciate it? You only had the HW30 for what... a couple of days?

As stated, just look at what I am doing with it?... I am basically brightening up the screen by twice as much as a 1.1 gain screen by simply buying a better screen (1.8 gain), and lowering my screen size from 110 to 100. You stated that when you had the HW30 for a couple days, you had it on a 1.0 gain screen? 3D maybe fine, but just maybe you did not experiment with a better screen/objectives enough to get the full effect out of the HW30?

By you saying you only had the HW30 for a couple days, does not give me a full, honest, respectfull opinion of the HW30 (from your view). It is a mere thub-nail of your assesment. It takes time to fully understand anything, and I speak from much experience.

Now, you stated you want something better by up-grading (maybe) to the Sony VW95? Now I do not know much about the VW95, but from what I read upon, the main things the VW95 has over the HW30 is a better lens, and automatic Lens shift (from the experts reviews I read). IMO that don't justify 2-grand more for the VW95???

Please correct me if I am wrong, but this is the reason we are all on here, to have fun and discuss these subjects, and correct one another if we are wrong. smile.gif

Look forward to hearing from ya!



Paul
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post #2672 of 2970
7/24/12 at 2:32am
The 95 has uniform sharpness across the entire screen whereas the 30 concentrates the majority of its in the center. Of course the 95 has more pop as well. I did like the 30 and it is excellent at its price range. 3D is a little brighter but depth and again sharpness favor the 95. If you never had a 95 side by side then you would (or should) be content with a 30. smile.gif

Oh and I had a 30 here for a month...
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post #2673 of 2970
7/24/12 at 3:12am
Well. I had it for 2 weeks actually:)

I had the money I wanted a big step up. Not just brightness and 3D.

The focus was not uniform across the whole screen, strange that my HW10 handled this much better (I surf the web alot)

The main things I was looking for my upgrade was black levels and shadow details.....I dont want flat black areas in movies...that was one of the things I was tired of with the HW10.
(Have seen the X30, just not satisfied with lamp issues and 3D...I ilke 3D:)

So, chasing black level and shadow detail, I went to the demo room and compared the HW30 to the 95...and 95 does better at those things. Its not night and day...HW30's picture is very close.
But i have the money and I got a very good deal from the shop for a 100h demo unit of theirs.
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post #2674 of 2970
7/25/12 at 12:23am
^^^Get ya! smile.gif


Zombie: I found a DA-LITE HP 2.4 gain in my price range. Please let me know what ya think of it. Its a Model C 110-inch. Mainly asking you as you stated you just set one up for your buddy and it looks great.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/DA-LITE-MODEL-C-PROJECTION-SCREEN-54x96-110-DIAG-HIGH-POWER-2-4-GAIN-94368-/360460400204?pt=US_Projection_Screens_Material&hash=item53ed1d364c


Anyone else who knows about this screen, please comment.


Thanks guys! smile.gif


Paul
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post #2675 of 2970
7/25/12 at 12:41am
That is a pretty good deal, but a couple of issues with it:

For screens, I much prefer a black case instead of a white case. I would also prefer to buy from an authorized Da-Lite dealer in case it has a defect it'll be easier to exchange.

Check www.projectorzone.com or give AVS a call, as PZ often has great deals on HP screens and they let you pick EVERY make / model combo and screen material from their site. You can choose black case instead of white for $20 more. If you want a white case, then probably not too many disadvantages. Do note that some prefer fixed frame screens, but I have a pulldown HP and I like it just fine (you can't see the waves, the reflectivity characteristics hide it for the most part). Also the waves will go away if you roll it up for only 48 hours or so then take it back down. The AC hitting it and air drafts is what causes the waves mostly, also if you have a fan blowing on it puildown screens tend to move a little (and you can see waves when it is moving obviously), but you can fix most of this problem by tabbing the bottom with a small board to keep it from moving when air blows on it.

My favorite type of screen is motorized, then fixed, then pulldown. For looks and aesthetics - the fixed frame wins, for price - the pulldown wins, for versatility (2.35/16:9 multi-handling) - the motorized wins.
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post #2676 of 2970
7/25/12 at 5:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

That is a pretty good deal, but a couple of issues with it:
For screens, I much prefer a black case instead of a white case. I would also prefer to buy from an authorized Da-Lite dealer in case it has a defect it'll be easier to exchange.
Check www.projectorzone.com or give AVS a call, as PZ often has great deals on HP screens and they let you pick EVERY make / model combo and screen material from their site. You can choose black case instead of white for $20 more. If you want a white case, then probably not too many disadvantages. Do note that some prefer fixed frame screens, but I have a pulldown HP and I like it just fine (you can't see the waves, the reflectivity characteristics hide it for the most part). Also the waves will go away if you roll it up for only 48 hours or so then take it back down. The AC hitting it and air drafts is what causes the waves mostly, also if you have a fan blowing on it puildown screens tend to move a little (and you can see waves when it is moving obviously), but you can fix most of this problem by tabbing the bottom with a small board to keep it from moving when air blows on it.
My favorite type of screen is motorized, then fixed, then pulldown. For looks and aesthetics - the fixed frame wins, for price - the pulldown wins, for versatility (2.35/16:9 multi-handling) - the motorized wins.


Thank You so much for taking the time out for that info!!! Much appreciated! I'm def gonna check into that Black-Case deal! And I've been worried about waves in a roll up, I just can't find a decent high-gain fixed frame at the price I am looking for! I did find the Elite 1.8 gain 100 inch, but I cannot find any reviews on it, and there StarBright 7.0 gain screens got such bad reviews I worry about Elites Gain materials.


The man who owns the EBay site "LightHouse Projections" (Mikel Miller) claims he is authorized ( he also has his own site here... http://www.lighthouseprojection.com/portable/index.html ... and a personalized Bio here... http://www.lighthouseprojection.com/contact.html ) , also, he states on his Ebay listings (which is something I feel is really cool), that he will not sell to anyone unless they call him and talk to him personally, I feel this is great customer service!


BTW, I think I may be more interested in the Model C 106-inch 1.5 gain! ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/370615515185?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 ) This may suit my needs best as I will be using 2D and 3D equally, also.. the 1.5 gain allows a maximum of a 35-degree viewing angle, while the 2.4 allows a maximum of 30 as far as angle safety, an extra 5-degree's I may need in the situation my room is set up in.


Let me know what you think brother!



Paul
Edited by EtherMagic - 7/25/12 at 5:52am
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post #2677 of 2970
7/25/12 at 7:18am
definitely call AVS, when I bought my now-discontinued Da-Lite HP 2.8 screen years ago, they were actually the cheapest.
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post #2678 of 2970
7/25/12 at 8:44am
Has anyone used the IR input jack with success? I'm running a Xantech remote repeater system and coming out one of the emitter ports on the connecting block with a 2 conductor mini-jack cable into the IR input on the HW30 but it's not responding. Was hoping to avoid sticking an emitter on the projector but there seems to be little info on the IR compatability.

Thanks,
JT
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post #2679 of 2970
7/25/12 at 6:26pm
This is a good review on the HW30

http://hometheaterreview.com/sony-vpl-hw30aes-3d-projector-reviewed/?page=1


Conclusion

The Sony VPL-HW30AES is quite an impressive performer, and this $3,999 package includes a nice assortment of features (some of which you won't find in the budget 3D models), including lens shifting, 240Hz technology, the 3D transmitter, and two pairs of glasses. The VPL-30HWAES's greatest asset may be its flexibility - it can be a great companion to screens of many sizes and types, it's well suited to both film and HDTV content, and it excels with both 2D and 3D.

If you're trying to assemble a modestly-priced but high-performing theater system, the VPL-HW30AES belongs on the short list of must-see demos..
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post #2680 of 2970
7/26/12 at 6:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtgrunden View Post

Has anyone used the IR input jack with success? I'm running a Xantech remote repeater system and coming out one of the emitter ports on the connecting block with a 2 conductor mini-jack cable into the IR input on the HW30 but it's not responding. Was hoping to avoid sticking an emitter on the projector but there seems to be little info on the IR compatability.
Thanks,
JT

I was going to but ended up just putting an emitter on it. It uses a TRS with signal on the ring and ground on the sleeve.
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post #2681 of 2970
7/26/12 at 6:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by naamanf View Post

I was going to but ended up just putting an emitter on it. It uses a TRS with signal on the ring and ground on the sleeve.

Yes and most repeaters use TS, tip being signal. So one would just have to make a custom cable... Love how the world of electronics has no consistency on even the smallest of things...
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post #2682 of 2970
7/26/12 at 11:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 3 View Post

Yes and most repeaters use TS, tip being signal. So one would just have to make a custom cable... Love how the world of electronics has no consistency on even the smallest of things...

No kidding, something as simple as IR Remote Control should be standard by now, Onkyo and Yamaha work fine but apparently Sony decided to not play along. So if I understand this correctly I need to make a converter cable using a Stereo Mini-Jack with the Signal on the Ring (Middle Contact) and the Ground on the Sleeve (Furthest Contact from the Tip) and nothing on the TIP? I noticed when I plug in a 2 conductor Mini-Plug it kill all remote function so I figured there was something different required.
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post #2683 of 2970
7/26/12 at 11:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtgrunden View Post

No kidding, something as simple as IR Remote Control should be standard by now, Onkyo and Yamaha work fine but apparently Sony decided to not play along. So if I understand this correctly I need to make a converter cable using a Stereo Mini-Jack with the Signal on the Ring (Middle Contact) and the Ground on the Sleeve (Furthest Contact from the Tip) and nothing on the TIP? I noticed when I plug in a 2 conductor Mini-Plug it kill all remote function so I figured there was something different required.

Correct. Even with the correct plug the IR eye will be disabled and all IR commands will have to come through the IR port.
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post #2684 of 2970
7/26/12 at 12:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by naamanf View Post

Correct. Even with the correct plug the IR eye will be disabled and all IR commands will have to come through the IR port.

Thanks for the info, I'll try making up a custom cable tonight.
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post #2685 of 2970
7/26/12 at 2:13pm
No problem

On a seperate issue I would like to know what settings people find work best on the their Monster 3D transmitter?
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post #2686 of 2970
7/26/12 at 8:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by naamanf View Post

No problem
On a seperate issue I would like to know what settings people find work best on the their Monster 3D transmitter?

I just got mine connected up so I've only tried the default settings.I have to say that I'm pretty impressed so far, I do see a little flicker but I'm very sensitive to that so I pretty much expected it. It's only really noticable on bright scenes and the rest of my family can't see it at all so I know its not too bad. I also would be interested in hearing what tweaks have been done to get the best picture.
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post #2687 of 2970
7/27/12 at 11:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by naamanf View Post

I was going to but ended up just putting an emitter on it. It uses a TRS with signal on the ring and ground on the sleeve.

I got my custom cable working, turns out it's actually signal at the Tip and Ground at the Sleeve. Now I just have to deal with the double tap off that is required to shut the projector down. I suppose I can experiment with a macro that sends 2 hits about a second apart unless I can find a descrete Off command that works for this projector with one hit. I really wish these manufacturers would get on board with providing descrete IR Codes for all functions of their equipment. It's like they don't have a clue how universal remotes with macro's even work and some of them sell a version of their own. Okay enough venting for now, on the bright side I am really happy with this projector so far and that's basically right out of the box. Can't wait to get it dialed in....
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post #2688 of 2970
7/27/12 at 11:33am
I think there might me a discrete off command. I'm using Roomie with an IP2IR and it has a Off command.
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post #2689 of 2970
7/29/12 at 2:43am
hello I'm new and french, sorry for my English language. I am owner of sonyhw30, I've noticed green spots and red 3D glasses with too, can you explain why these spots? I suppose the canvas?
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post #2690 of 2970
7/29/12 at 3:15am
^^^ It sounds like the screen may have defects, have not heard/seen anyone mention this before as far as the HW30 is concerned. Maybe someone with more experience then I have can help ya smile.gif



Quick question guys, need some opinions here...


I found a used Stewart FireHawk 110" screen that I am very interested in that is selling for VERY cheap (well cheap compared to the original 3-grand it originally cost), my concern is that the guy selling it bought the screen back in 2001, used it for a year and a half, and then packed away it in its original packaging, its been sitting in storage well packaged ever since.


Was just wondering if the screen can possibly get defective some how with just age alone? Would any of you be concerned buying a 11 yr old screen that was not used much but been in storage for 10 years??? The age/time thing concerns me. I did ask the seller how and where it was stored (attic, damp basement, ect), I am awaiting a response.


Any responses would be much appreciated.



Thanks guys!
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post #2691 of 2970
7/29/12 at 7:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by naamanf View Post

I think there might me a discrete off command. I'm using Roomie with an IP2IR and it has a Off command.

I'm not fimiliar with Roomie so I'll have to research that. I've discoverd an additional problem with the Marantz RC 5200 touch screen remote I'm still using, it's pretty old but still very functional. When I have 3D on the room has so much IR that my Xantech Micro Link Receiver gets flooded and I lose remote control to my Onkyo Receiver, the Panny BR and Lutron Light Conrol still respond but apparently the frequency for the Onkyo gets flooded. I've tried blocking off the back of the Sony emitter but there just so much IR I can't knock it down enough. I know they used to make an RF control for the Marantz but I don't know how well it worked or if I could even find one. Time to start looking a a new RF remote system I guess....
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post #2692 of 2970
7/29/12 at 7:50am
There are discrete commands for input, power off, power on. I am not on front of my PC now so I can't post them. I had emailed tech support and they emailed the commands to me.
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post #2693 of 2970
7/30/12 at 6:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by randman View Post

There are discrete commands for input, power off, power on. I am not on front of my PC now so I can't post them. I had emailed tech support and they emailed the commands to me.

They might be on remote central so I'll look there, if you get a chance PM me on what you have. I found and RX-77 for my Marantz remote so I'll attempt to go RF to get around the 3D IR Flooding problem. I've also been having some reliability issues with the IR port on the HW30 so I may just end up sticking an emitter on it. Seems to work intermittently using the Port so there may be some incompatibility with my Xantech system. I hate fine tuning this part as it necessitates turning the projector on and off numerous times.
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post #2694 of 2970
7/30/12 at 7:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtgrunden View Post

They might be on remote central so I'll look there, if you get a chance PM me on what you have. I found and RX-77 for my Marantz remote so I'll attempt to go RF to get around the 3D IR Flooding problem. I've also been having some reliability issues with the IR port on the HW30 so I may just end up sticking an emitter on it. Seems to work intermittently using the Port so there may be some incompatibility with my Xantech system. I hate fine tuning this part as it necessitates turning the projector on and off numerous times.

POWER ON: 0000 0067 0000 0010 0060 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0390

POWER OFF: 0000 0067 0000 0010 0060 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0378

SVIDEO: 0000 0067 0000 0010 0060 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0360

HDMI1: 0000 0067 0000 0010 0060 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0360

HDMI2: 0000 0067 0000 0010 0060 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 03A8

VIDEO: 0000 0067 0000 0010 0060 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0390

INPUTA: 0000 0067 0000 0010 0060 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0390

COMPONENT: 0000 0067 0000 0010 0060 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 03A8

Let me know if you need any others.
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post #2695 of 2970
7/30/12 at 11:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 3 View Post

POWER ON: 0000 0067 0000 0010 0060 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0390
POWER OFF: 0000 0067 0000 0010 0060 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0378
SVIDEO: 0000 0067 0000 0010 0060 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0360
HDMI1: 0000 0067 0000 0010 0060 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0360
HDMI2: 0000 0067 0000 0010 0060 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 03A8
VIDEO: 0000 0067 0000 0010 0060 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0390
INPUTA: 0000 0067 0000 0010 0060 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0390
COMPONENT: 0000 0067 0000 0010 0060 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 03A8
Let me know if you need any others.

Awesome, Thanks Jason!
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post #2696 of 2970
7/30/12 at 12:19pm
Welcome.
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post #2697 of 2970
8/7/12 at 12:15pm
I just measured at 1500 hours and am getting the same levels as 1100. Running on high lamp for the last 700 hours.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonDono View Post



Update on lamp brightness.

I'm at 1100 hours on the lamp from PCRUSH, yes we watch a lot of television and use the projector as our main tv.


Low lamp 401 lumens

High Lamp 648 lumens


I've been running on high lamp for the last 300 hours or so.

so, in low lamp it's at 73% brightness after 1100 hours.

in high lamp it's at 72.5% brightness


27% drop after 1100 hours, not too shabby

I jus
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post #2698 of 2970
8/8/12 at 11:34pm
How much different (size) does it make if I wanna change my 106" electric screen to a 120" fixed screen?
The 106" screen already develope the curling effect now....
can my HW30ES fill the 120" from 14.5'?
sitting at 13' from the screen
I have total light controled room with black ceiling, dark brown walls and brown tiles flooring and no windows.
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post #2699 of 2970
8/10/12 at 8:50am
Mpyw,

I have a throw chart on my site (see sig below). I'd answer your question directly, but I'm using a smartphone right now...
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post #2700 of 2970
8/15/12 at 1:02pm
Sanity Check - I'd like to use the HW30 for a scope setup and am trying to figure out mounting distance. I believe the calculations in the manual are for 16x9, so to get the distance for scope I should only need to match the vertical size, correct?

For example - If I wanted a 138" scope screen (127"x54"), I should figure based on a 110" 16x9 (96"x54") screen - right?

So, it looks like I should mount it between 11.3 and 16.7 feet?
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