Official Sony VPL-HW30(A)ES Owners Thread - Page 91

No it's the width. If you match the vertical number your scope projected images are going to be window boxed on your screen. Of course I am making the assumption that this is cheap scope setup achieved by using just the zoom on the projector. Remember the HW30 does not have internal scaling for scope for use with anamorphic lenses. If that's the route you are going then you are going to need an external video processor.
Edited by Toknowshita - 8/16/12 at 9:05am

Yes, cheap man's zoom for now, video processor down the road.

So, if I use the width (127") that equals a 145" diagonal 16x9 screen which means I should mount between 15 and 22'. Since I would have to zoom back for 16x9 movies, do I want to be closer to the 15' mark.

Yep around the 15' mark is where you want to be. If you get to far from that you may not be able to adjust back to fit into a 16x9 vertical height of 54". So basically set the Projector zoom to its min throw(biggest image from a set throw distance). Move to the point where you can fill your 2.35 screen width. Mark that point. Projector should be mounted a little further back(maybe a foot so you have a little wiggle room). Now when you view 16x9 material adjust towards max throw (smaller picture from a set throw distance). You should have enough adjustment to easily reduce to a 16x9 vertical height of 54".

So looking at your numbers from the last page for the 16x9 vertical height and the numbers to achieve your 2.35 width you have a throw range of 15 to 16. 7 for your setup. As long as you don't have to rely on a lot of shift adjustment and you you can be fairly centered on the screen it should work fine. Good Luck! I have thought about doing something similar with my HW30 but I don't want to mess around moving the mount since I just installed this unit about 6 months ago.
Edited by Toknowshita - 8/16/12 at 1:35pm

Thanks. I'm still in the building phase but wanted to make sure I ran my wiring and conduit to the right spot. If I target the 16' mark, I think I'll be right above my 2nd row, so I don't know how close to center I'll be able to get it. Looking at the formula from the manual, I should have about 45" to play with though.

has sony announced an upgrade to the HW30 yet?

Has anyone tried the Darbee Darblet with this projector? Most samples that I've seen use the JVC projectors. Thinking of buying this with the upcoming football season and just b/c =)

yes, it looks nice on the HW30. definitely worth getting, especially since there is little risk (money back guarantee - shipping) if you don't like it.

I have a HW30 and just got the Darbee. I would say it's a keeper for sure. It does make an improvement but I still haven't figured out yet where I like the setting to be. I do keep in on HD but not sure if I like a lower setting like 40 or a slightly higher one like 47.

Thanks for the quick response. Figure for its price tag it is much cheaper than upgrading the projector. At least that is what I'm going tell the wife:D

Nothing official yet, but there is just a little reportedly leaked info (built-in 3D emitter, perhaps called the HW50ES, etc.). It will probably be officially announced by Sony at the IFA show in Germany that starts this coming Friday and in the US at the start of the CEDIA show on Wed. Sept. 5th (5pm press conference). Stay tuned.
Edited by Ron Jones - 8/26/12 at 4:18pm

hello,
I have sometimes seen in some bright scenes of a movie, the image flickers slightly.
This happened rarely, and the effect is very slight.
If I put the lamp in "high" generally this slight flicker disappears.
it is true that not good for too long to keep the lamp in low mode, but sometimes you have to use it in high mode?

Have you ever noticed this flicker in 2d images? This, however, has happened to me only a few images of a film, and the problem occurred very rarely in 6 months.

thank you!

Nm
Edited by Raine0 - 8/29/12 at 5:49am

I've seen the same, I usually just give it 10 mins in high and then drop back to low. I'm at nearly 1000hrs and have not seen much of it in the last 300hrs, how many do you have on your lamp? It was more often in the earlier hours.

hello,
thanks for your answer,
my lamp is 320 hours.
if I put the lamp in high even for a moment and then switch to low the problem disappears.
Another person told me that he had the same problem with a Sony HW20.
This problem I had seen on rare occasions in the past, then it has not done more for a long time. now it has started again, and I see it often.
is a problem of the lamp or the projector?
Other users of hw 30 they told me they have never seen this problem.

I just found this on Sony's website: http://www.sonybiz.ca/solutions/ProductDisplay.do?catentryId=1010770

I can't find anything online with the model name VPL-HW30AESB. Is this the update for the VPLHW30AES or does the B just stand for black?

Finally bought the HW30AES between it and the JVC' s 30R. As it has the big difference in price and the 'ghosting' in JVC keep me away from it. Seen some flickering during the bright image on 3D movies. Will the Monster's or Xpand's glasses make any improvement ?In additions, I am using matt screen with 0.8 gain. Will screen with more gain be better ? Thanks.

If you see 3D movies ( at 24 P ) and you not have turned motionflow on, the projector will show the picture frames as 2 x 24 frames for the left eye and 2 x 24 frames at right eye - meaning that you have a frekvens at 48 frames pr.sec. that gives flicker for some to see.( try turn motionflow on and see if the flicker goes away )

dj

Now you need to buy the Darbee(before the price goesd up) to have a super setup. Beleive me the Darbee makes a huge difference, I wouldn't be without one now that I've watched it for a while.

Hi all, I just purchased the HW30ES and was wondering which 3D glasses that you recommend for this projector? Would it be the Sony, Monstervision, or other brand(s)? Thanks for your recommendations!

^^^ call me 'lazy' but I bought the Sony's since it came with a pair I wanted to keep the same style so I bought 2 more pairs for $100 each.

I have a chance to pick up a new ES version (I guess that is the one without the 3D glasses and transmitter) for $2200. I am not much into 3D right now but may if you can start renting 3D movies from Redbox. We use the current projector as mostly an everday TV so the bulb replacement cost of this model is attractive to me as is the motion handling because we watch a lot of sports (the other model I was looking to was a B stock RS40 for around $1800 on JVC's B stock website). However, while the JVC likely produces a better 2D picture and that is what we watch, it is my understanding the motion is better on Sony and the bulbs are much cheaper. I think that is a pretty good deal on the Sony. Thoughts?

To address 3D rentals: I've been using this company for almost a year and they're great:
http://stores.3d-blurayrental.com/StoreFront.bok

Just curious has anybody here has first hand experiences with the HW20 and the HW30? Most places I've read that they are indentical in 2D bar Motion Flow but then again I heard one or two people mention that the HW30 2D is better, with better black levels amongst other things. So to try and decide on a purchase, with 3D being not so important, is there a difference in the 2D side between the two pjs mentioned can anybody tell me? Thx!

Just found out a pair polarizer filters (from Sony) can attached to the Sony TV's BR250 3D Glass and able to use for the HW30. Have bought a pair of the filter and so far cannot tell the difference between the PJ1 glasses.Just my2 cents.

I have had my HW30 for about 8 months or so and not sure why I am just now asking this question.

When I pull up the green graph to fit the picture on the screen. Where/how is the proper alignment? I noticed that the outside of the green graph it has double lines. Do the double lines need to be on the inside of the screen frame or outside? If outside then an inch or 2 inches from the black frame around the screen?

I have a 92" DragonFly screen, 1.3 gain. Link to setup in my sig.

Thanks for the help.

I just got the Darbee today. I agree with your opinion and feel that the picture quality does improve with the Darbee. There are some details that I have not noticed before when watching blu ray content such as background scenery, clothing texture, and skin textures. The improvement is subtle but noticeable. The magic spot for me seems to be on HD 50. I have been having some compatibility issues with my Comcast box but otherwise the Darbee seems like a keeper.

Most projector setups use a little overscan to hide the fact that it not perfectly squared to the screen.

Great because the green graph is defiantly not perfectly squared.

Jutang,

I think you'll notice it improves the PQ more the more you watch it. At first I thought the same that it only improved it slightly, but the more I watch it the more it seems to have improved all content.

After a week of experimenting with the Darbee, I think this is a great addition for a projector setup. I recently turned it off and quickly missed the enhancements the Darbee does for the picture. Also really like how the Darbee improves the contrast on 3d. Watched Kung Fu Panda 2 on Pop 50% and the Avengers Gaming 50% and I felt there was less eye fatigue. There are times the Darbee gives the image too much of a digitized look... especially on Thor's face in the final battle scene. But overall love the added detail this little gizmo provides.

Haven't had any of the reported glitches or resets other people have had with the Darbee, but we'll see. In order for the Comcast cable box to play nicely with the Darbee I had to switch to a different model but the new box does not have anywhere dvr capabilities so I'm thinking of going back to my previous box and use component cables. Since the cable signal broadcasts in 1080i, in theory I shouldn't have any difference in picture quality via component versus hdmi.