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Official Sony VPL-HW30(A)ES Owners Thread - Page 92

post #2731 of 2970
9/28/12 at 5:19pm
I started out with the Darbee at 47 but I've since gone down to 40 and find it looks great, not too much but not too little.
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post #2732 of 2970
9/29/12 at 2:55am
I have just received the Darbee. Will try it out and hope to get all the good results as other got. smile.gif
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post #2733 of 2970
10/5/12 at 7:57am
Have connected the Darbee and watched several clips of both 2D & 3D. It show a good improvement in a subtle way. The sharpness and brightness have improved. May bought another unit for HDTV. As I have connected the Darbee between the Oppo 95 & HW30.

I have also compared the Xpand and Monstervision Glasses. The Monster have better visual performance but the Xpand have better built quality and lighter in weight.
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post #2734 of 2970
10/5/12 at 3:53pm
People seem to be having good luck with the MonsterVision glasses. Can anyone recommend a place to buy them, searching on Amazon the best I've seen is $73 for a set. Is that the best deal currently?
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post #2735 of 2970
10/6/12 at 7:04am
Hi - I have a HW30ES and was thinking of setting it up for 3d. Is there any way to use the Panasonic TY-EW3D3MU 3D Active Shutter glasses from my TC-P60ST30 plasma, say with a Monster Vision transmitter or any other transmitter? It'd be nice to not have to buy another set of glasses.
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post #2736 of 2970
10/6/12 at 2:05pm
I see the HW50 is out and the RC seems to improve the picture. My question is how does a HW30 with a Darbee compare to an HW50 and its RC ? I know the HW50 will (or should) have
better blacks, but I was wondering about the detail enhancement. Thanks
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post #2737 of 2970
10/7/12 at 6:45pm
I would be careful about buying into the hype regarding these image enhancement algorithms. They are altering the intended look of the content. I was watching the 3D version of the Avengers this weekend on my HW30. I do not have a Darby but I did not find that the image quality lacking. Remember these devices are not much more than digital edge enhancers.
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post #2738 of 2970
10/7/12 at 8:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toknowshita View Post

I would be careful about buying into the hype regarding these image enhancement algorithms. They are altering the intended look of the content. I was watching the 3D version of the Avengers this weekend on my HW30. I do not have a Darby but I did not find that the image quality lacking. Remember these devices are not much more than digital edge enhancers.

Completely false. I love it when people make such broad statements as this. Don't talk crap, and do some research before you post BS. The Darbee is not a digital edge enhancer and yes I HAVE ONE.
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post #2739 of 2970
10/7/12 at 8:29pm
The Darbee from my eyes makes the picture sharper without making it distracting. It is a personal preference so YMMV. I decided to go for it because most of the responses have been favorable and if you don't like the Darbee's influence on the picture you are allowed to return it within 30 days.

Darbee definately improves pictures from blu rays more than it does for cable signals and DVDs.

Given its relatively cheap cost for most readers who tend to splurge on AV equipment, it is worth a try.
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post #2740 of 2970
10/7/12 at 8:52pm
I have been using a Benq W7000 with my Darbee. The W7000 has a detail enhancer with range from 0-4. At 0, the image is soft and it can only be used up to 2. The detail enhancer from 3-4 makes the image look really grainy and not watchable. So now, I can use the detail enhancer at 2 and use the Darbee to add extra detail without any artifacts. I think it works best in 3D, because it seem to be a little soft at times, but the detail enhancer adds to many artifacts if its passed 2. I would like to see how the new Sony HW50 looks with the RC and Darbee combined. I know some with the 4K Sony likes how it works with the Darbee, so i'm sure it will be a good combination.
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post #2741 of 2970
10/7/12 at 10:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by conan48 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toknowshita View Post

I would be careful about buying into the hype regarding these image enhancement algorithms. They are altering the intended look of the content. I was watching the 3D version of the Avengers this weekend on my HW30. I do not have a Darby but I did not find that the image quality lacking. Remember these devices are not much more than digital edge enhancers.

Completely false. I love it when people make such broad statements as this. Don't talk crap, and do some research before you post BS. The Darbee is not a digital edge enhancer and yes I HAVE ONE.

Good for you! It is still modifying the original signal. It is still applying an algorithm to sharpen and over enhance detail.
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post #2742 of 2970
10/7/12 at 10:55pm
it's still not an EDGE ENHANCER. Thats what makes the darbee so special. So to lump it with crapy edge enhancer that most projectors use is assinine.
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post #2743 of 2970
10/8/12 at 12:01am
I have used the detail enhancer on my RS40, RS55, and now W7000. With these expensive projectors, the Darbee does a lot better job. With my JVCs, I kept the detail enhancer to 0, because it presented artifacts. I only see artifacts when I crank the Darbee up to 55 or more sometimes. On 3D, I can crank the Darbee all the way up to 120 and see no artifacts or distorted quality.


These are pictures from my W7000. The 120% adds artifacts, but at 50% it is the best setting without any artifacts or grainy images.




3D with the Darbee. Its goes from 0-50-120. As you can see, the picture improves with the Darbee. Actually at 120%, the image is artifact free and I preferred to watched this 3D cranked all the way up to 120. However, for most, I keep it between 40-55
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post #2744 of 2970
10/8/12 at 6:56am
Has anyone been able to essentially eliminate ghosting from on screen text/menus with the MV3Ds? I watched Captain America this weekend and while the movie itself was pretty much free from ghosting on my HW30, when there was text saying the date/location of the scene, the ghosting was terrible.
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post #2745 of 2970
10/8/12 at 11:56pm
I have replaced the original power supply of the Darbee with a much better unit. It improved the image quality substanially. Brighter and much better details. I have kept it at HiDef 55 on 2D and did not experience the 3D effect yet.Have to tune down the brightness on the HW30 to get the optimal picture. The sharpness and details are better. Even my wife said so while we are watching the MIB3 on 2D.

Any guru can suggest the settings for the Monster 3D max on the HW30 ? Many thanks.I have upgade the firmware for the Glasses yesterday.
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post #2746 of 2970
10/9/12 at 3:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tune View Post

I have replaced the original power supply of the Darbee with a much better unit. It improved the image quality substanially. Brighter and much better details. I have kept it at HiDef 55 on 2D and did not experience the 3D effect yet.Have to tune down the brightness on the HW30 to get the optimal picture. The sharpness and details are better. Even my wife said so while we are watching the MIB3 on 2D.
Any guru can suggest the settings for the Monster 3D max on the HW30 ? Many thanks.I have upgade the firmware for the Glasses yesterday.
This is the first post on AVS where somebody else has noticed a difference where a cheap switching power supply is spewing RF through the A/C line and through the air.

This implies everyone else has more than this single issue in their system, as the other anomalies in the system mask this one. Except for you.
Ironically this unit is sold to improve the picture. Get it? Its like a drug which helps but has severe side effects.

There are multiple interference and cross contamination issues and the poor hapless souls keep on upgrading to no end.

Separate HDMI switchers and splitters are another common culprit. I had to try three different wall warts to find one that was acceptable, and only then after it was isolated with its own A/C power conditioning tap.
Frequently i simplify and say I'm against adding clutter into my system.

The issue is: Can you tell a sick person they are sick?
Enough. You and i need to be quiet as the rest here will get too upset.
Now back to our regularly scheduled programming.
Edited by HiFiFun - 10/9/12 at 3:43am
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post #2747 of 2970
10/9/12 at 4:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tune View Post

I have replaced the original power supply of the Darbee with a much better unit. It improved the image quality substanially. ....


tune. Can you share with us where did you get this better power supply from ? Thanks.
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post #2748 of 2970
10/9/12 at 5:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by browerjs View Post

Has anyone been able to essentially eliminate ghosting from on screen text/menus with the MV3Ds? I watched Captain America this weekend and while the movie itself was pretty much free from ghosting on my HW30, when there was text saying the date/location of the scene, the ghosting was terrible.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tune View Post

Any guru can suggest the settings for the Monster 3D max on the HW30 ? Many thanks.I have upgade the firmware for the Glasses yesterday.

Captain American was a post conversion, it didn't have heavy parallax to begin with (wide separation of the L/R stereo images) so this movie looks good even on projectors that are prone to showing the ghosting. It becomes more obvious in the high contrast 3D animations and titles shot in native 3d with heavy pop outs, etc.

regarding the MV3D tuning, the best bet is to find a noticeable area of ghosting in a scene. The beginning of Alice in Wonderland is perfect here.. the black fence against the yellow sky is brutal on non DLP projectors. Pause the frame and manually adjust the settings until you see the least amount of ghosting possible.

You will not be able to completely eliminate the crosstalk, even with the MV3D's. It's not possible given the current constraints of non DLP projection panels. Several 3D test patterns show the upcoming HW50 is similar in performance to the HW30. Very good in 3D and acceptable for most folks, but not as perfect as DLP which is flawless with ghosting and flicker in comparison.
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post #2749 of 2970
10/9/12 at 9:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

Captain American was a post conversion, it didn't have heavy parallax to begin with (wide separation of the L/R stereo images) so this movie looks good even on projectors that are prone to showing the ghosting. It becomes more obvious in the high contrast 3D animations and titles shot in native 3d with heavy pop outs, etc.
regarding the MV3D tuning, the best bet is to find a noticeable area of ghosting in a scene. The beginning of Alice in Wonderland is perfect here.. the black fence against the yellow sky is brutal on non DLP projectors. Pause the frame and manually adjust the settings until you see the least amount of ghosting possible.
You will not be able to completely eliminate the crosstalk, even with the MV3D's. It's not possible given the current constraints of non DLP projection panels. Several 3D test patterns show the upcoming HW50 is similar in performance to the HW30. Very good in 3D and acceptable for most folks, but not as perfect as DLP which is flawless with ghosting and flicker in comparison.

Thanks for the info. I will give Alice a try to do my adjusting. Am I able to do this with the MV3Ds in real time while connected to the PC?
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post #2750 of 2970
10/9/12 at 10:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by browerjs View Post

Thanks for the info. I will give Alice a try to do my adjusting. Am I able to do this with the MV3Ds in real time while connected to the PC?

it's been a while since I tried, but I don't think so. I preferred to do it manually since I can get close to the right setting then make subtle changes in either direction to see if it can be improved or makes it worse, etc. I had it down to a science and could re-tune them manually in about 5 minutes paused on a tough crosstalk scene.

let me know how you make out.
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post #2751 of 2970
10/9/12 at 11:48am
Hi Tune,

Perhaps you just got a bad power supply, did you check its output with a scope to see if it was bad? I understand they may of had some problems with some of the power supplies.
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post #2752 of 2970
10/11/12 at 2:54pm
Hey guys,

With the release of Avatar 3D next week, I am finally buying 3D glasses for my HW30ES. I had an adapter made by a forum member on here that allows the Monster RF transmitter to plug directly into the Ethernet jack on the HW30, so I will obviously be going with an all Monster 3D glasses setup. Few questions:

1) Can I just copy over my 2D picture settings to 3D mode on my HW30? How do I access the 3D picture settings on the projector?
2) Are there settings to calibrate the Monster 3D glasses themselves (shutter speed, etc)? How do I access them? Are there suggested settings to start with/work off of?

Thanks!
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post #2753 of 2970
10/11/12 at 2:59pm
You can adjust the setting with the joystick on the transmitter or you can download the app on Monster's site and adjust through the app on a PC.

As far as carrying the 2D settings over for 3D, I am afraid it isn't that simple since the glasses significantly affect the image. It's too bad there aren't any test discs with true 3D test patterns. Also there are color shift differences between the Sony and the MV3D glasses. I wouldn't worry too much about it since there isn't really a 3D standard for home displays.
Edited by Toknowshita - 10/11/12 at 3:05pm
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post #2754 of 2970
10/11/12 at 3:28pm
All I see the Darbee doing is boosting areas of contrast on the image to give the illusion of added detail. It reminds me of when you play the same sound clip for someone where the only difference is the volume. Most listeners will say the louder one was superior. Its the same with images. Have the same image where the only difference is wider contrast range and the viewer will usually say the higher contrasted image is better.
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post #2755 of 2970
10/11/12 at 8:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toknowshita View Post

You can adjust the setting with the joystick on the transmitter or you can download the app on Monster's site and adjust through the app on a PC.
As far as carrying the 2D settings over for 3D, I am afraid it isn't that simple since the glasses significantly affect the image. It's too bad there aren't any test discs with true 3D test patterns. Also there are color shift differences between the Sony and the MV3D glasses. I wouldn't worry too much about it since there isn't really a 3D standard for home displays.

I know there is no standard. What I was asking is if I CAN merely just use the same picture settings that I use for 2D for 3D since my 2D settings are calibrated but not 3D (never had 3D calibrated)?

Also, are there standard settings to use for the Monster glasses (the transmitter) that members here think work best?
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post #2756 of 2970
10/11/12 at 9:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post

I know there is no standard. What I was asking is if I CAN merely just use the same picture settings that I use for 2D for 3D since my 2D settings are calibrated but not 3D (never had 3D calibrated)?
Also, are there standard settings to use for the Monster glasses (the transmitter) that members here think work best?

I don't think so since from what i understand a non standard gamma curve is used to help increase brightness. You can try to use the same settings but I don't think you will have anywhere close to a calibrated image in the 3D mode.
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post #2757 of 2970
10/11/12 at 10:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toknowshita View Post

I don't think so since from what i understand a non standard gamma curve is used to help increase brightness. You can try to use the same settings but I don't think you will have anywhere close to a calibrated image in the 3D mode.

I'm not even worried about a calibrated 3D picture. I am just going to be using 3D as a "novelty" every now and then to see a good movie in a different perspective, so to say. When I want calibrated picture, I'll watch 2D.

That all being said, can I use my 2D calibrated picture settings and still have a good picture.....or am I better off using a preset mode for 3D?
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post #2758 of 2970
10/12/12 at 10:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post

I'm not even worried about a calibrated 3D picture. I am just going to be using 3D as a "novelty" every now and then to see a good movie in a different perspective, so to say. When I want calibrated picture, I'll watch 2D.
That all being said, can I use my 2D calibrated picture settings and still have a good picture.....or am I better off using a preset mode for 3D?

I think I just use the 3D standard mode. Go ahead and try out your other settings in 3D mode and settle on the one that you are happy with.

As was pointed out earlier, there is no standard for 3D mastering (see Transformers Dark of the Moon 3D and comments from Michael Bay) and there is also no standard for the the 3D glasses so it is all pretty much a YMWV situation.
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post #2759 of 2970
10/12/12 at 10:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toknowshita View Post

I think I just use the 3D standard mode. Go ahead and try out your other settings in 3D mode and settle on the one that you are happy with.
As was pointed out earlier, there is no standard for 3D mastering (see Transformers Dark of the Moon 3D and comments from Michael Bay) and there is also no standard for the the 3D glasses so it is all pretty much a YMWV situation.

Cool, thanks.

I was just wondering if there were recommended settings for the Monster 3D transmitter based on comparison/usage from members in this forum using them on the HW30ES (like delay settings, etc).....or if just using the settings right out of the box is usually good enough for most people?
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post #2760 of 2970
10/12/12 at 10:58am
Basically I'm trying to ask zombie10k the settings he found that work best with these glasses/projector during his extensive shootout testing/comparisons. Or if I should just stick with stock settings.

(I've been searching this thread for his post containing the settings he ended up using....but haven't found it yet. I swear I remember reading it a long time ago)
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