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Official Sony VPL-HW30(A)ES Owners Thread - Page 93

post #2761 of 3212
I have replaced the standard power supply came with Darbee with a Toroidal Ring transformer with 5 amp output. The conncetion plug is also better as the standard one is a bit loose. I would reckon the improvement is good. Brighter and more details.
Have any guys have come across a re-boot of the Darbee after accessing the menu. I have an experience when the unit has freezed when I am making adjustment on the menu. It then re-boot itself and lost all the previous settings.

Thanks.
post #2762 of 3212
Hi Tune,

Are you saying you replaced the original power supply which is a 5VDC switching supply with a toroidal based 5vdc supply, you mentioned 5amp, it that the capacity rating of the transformer?. Is this new supply you are using the basic transformer / bridge rectifier / capacitor style raw supply?
post #2763 of 3212
Hey guys,

If I use High Lamp mode for Cinema Black Pro setting do I have to use High cooling setting or can I continue using the Normal cooling setting?

The projector has plenty of room from ceiling/back wall and my HT room is always at 70 degrees, never hotter.

Thanks!

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
post #2764 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post

Hey guys,
If I use High Lamp mode for Cinema Black Pro setting do I have to use High cooling setting or can I continue using the Normal cooling setting?
The projector has plenty of room from ceiling/back wall and my HT room is always at 70 degrees, never hotter.
Thanks!
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

Never mind, answered my own question:

"When you switch from “Low” to “High”, the number of turns of the fan increases, and the fan noise becomes slightly louder. When you switch to “Low”, energy consumption is reduced, thereby increasing the lamp life."
post #2765 of 3212
Does anyone know if I buy a used Sony HW30 from someone with a valid warranty, is the warranty transferable?
post #2766 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dhuskey View Post

Does anyone know if I buy a used Sony HW30 from someone with a valid warranty, is the warranty transferable?
Do you have the original receipt?
Reply
Reply
post #2767 of 3212
Hello,

Can one of you HW30 owners check out a performance condition for the HW50 owners thread ?

Can you please put the PJ in 3D mode and change the "3D brightness" setting set to 3, 4 or MAX. Now get real close to the projector, turn off any audio or lower background noise so the room is silent..... do you hear a faint buzz or whine of any kind?

Toggle in and out of 3D, does the sound go away if it is there?

We would really appreciate the perspective, there seems to be a soft noise emitted from the HW50 with theses same conditions.
post #2768 of 3212
Hi All,

I've just purchased this projector and finally read through 90+ pages of info! Many thanks!

I've been researching alternative 3D glasses and found out that the Playstation glasses actually have the polariser filters built in.

Would these work on the projector?

Cheers,
Ethan
post #2769 of 3212
I have heard of other users using the PS3 glasses with decent results but the comfort wasn't the best.
post #2770 of 3212
PS3 glasses do work, but comfort is not there at all. (you will find yourself repositioning them every half hour or less. And you can't wait to take them off after a movie.) I also found the 3D effect and detail MUCH better on the Monster glasses. (not to mention you can tweak the Monsters to try to minimize the ghosting.)

But on the up side you can probably find the PS3 glasses for quite cheep now.
post #2771 of 3212
Trapazoid image


I finally moved into the world of projectors. I will have my new Sony professionally calibrated soon, but until then I like to show it off a bit. The problem is that I have a smaller image on the top compared to the bottom (ceiling mount). The keystone correction only goes to -30 which doesn't,t quite resolve the problem. What else can be done to fix the image?
post #2772 of 3212
Did you use the lens shift first? Is it square to the screen?

If yes, your going to need to drop it, you really don't want to be using the keystone correction so drop it far enough the lens shift gets it where you want it.
post #2773 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by kopensk1 View Post

Trapazoid image
I finally moved into the world of projectors. I will have my new Sony professionally calibrated soon, but until then I like to show it off a bit. The problem is that I have a smaller image on the top compared to the bottom (ceiling mount). The keystone correction only goes to -30 which doesn't,t quite resolve the problem. What else can be done to fix the image?
You'll have to get an arm (or whatever it's called) to lower the projector to get rid of the trapezoid effect. Ideally you don't want to use keystoning, so lower it as much as possible.
post #2774 of 3212
Speaking of mounting - what is everyone using as a mount for this PJ? I know a lot of people use Chief mounts, but don't feel like spending $150 on a mount if a $75 mount works just as well. Any suggestions? Thoughts on Peerless or Mount Direct?
post #2775 of 3212
I bought this one for @$100 Peerless PRG-UNV Universal PRG Precision Gear Projector Mount - Black
post #2776 of 3212
I just purchased the HW30AES a week ago and have been enjoying watching both 2D and 3D content on it. However, I started noticing that artifacts were showing up on text, and then when I paused the video (both Tivo and DVD content) I could see these artifacts all over the screen, not just on the text. The artifacts I'm referring to appear as vertical dotted lines of black pixels and you can see them in the following images :






Both my Tivo and Oppo BDP-83 connect to my Denon 4520ci via passthrough HDMI to my Lumagen Radiance Mini video-processor and finally to my Sony HW30AES. Except for the Tivo and Oppo, all components are new and I have not callibrated them or messed with any settings, so none of them, including my Radiance, should be doing anything to the video.

Does anyone have any idea what these verical lines of pixels are and what I'm doing wrong?

Thanks in advance,

Anthony
post #2777 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyPaulO View Post

I just purchased the HW30AES a week ago and have been enjoying watching both 2D and 3D content on it. However, I started noticing that artifacts were showing up on text, and then when I paused the video (both Tivo and DVD content) I could see these artifacts all over the screen, not just on the text. The artifacts I'm referring to appear as vertical dotted lines of black pixels and you can see them in the following images :



Both my Tivo and Oppo BDP-83 connect to my Denon 4520ci via passthrough HDMI to my Lumagen Radiance Mini video-processor and finally to my Sony HW30AES. Except for the Tivo and Oppo, all components are new and I have not callibrated them or messed with any settings, so none of them, including my Radiance, should be doing anything to the video.
Does anyone have any idea what these verical lines of pixels are and what I'm doing wrong?
Thanks in advance,
Anthony

As for the guide lettering... usually those are lower resolution and they can look a little dirty when upscaled to higher resolution. Is the other content native 1080i? Do you have your source devices set to 1080p/i output?

If not sure you may want to check those settings. I have seen similar artifacts on content if the source device is supplying 1080i or 480 upscaled to HD.

As far as the vertical black dots? I don't know. I would directly connect the source into the projector to see if you are still seeing these lines. Make sure you have the source devices set to the same resolution so you are comparing apples to apples. If it is visible with any component connected to the PJ it is most likely the projector. If not add the other inline devices in one at time to see when the dots appear.

I have not experienced those black dots in my 8m of owning the HW30ES.
Edited by Toknowshita - 11/2/12 at 2:42pm
post #2778 of 3212
Hey guys,

False alarm... I checked the setup and alignment screen on the PJ to see if it displayed the dots but it didn't, so I went down to the next source which was the Radiance. I turned it off, took out the cables and put them back in, turned it on, and all was well; dots are gone. Now I'm not sure if it was a cable issue or if the Radiance goes bonkers after a while, but I'm gonna keep close tabs on it and if it happens again try to narrow it down further.

Thanks for the help.

Anthony
post #2779 of 3212
I have just installed one of these for a friend. For aesthetic reasons we tried using the building's in-place network wiring for the sync emitter:

  • 10' Cat6 cable from emitter to wall jack below screen
  • ~30' Cat6 in-wall to patch panel
  • 2' patch cable
  • ~20' Cat6 in-wall from patch panel to wall jack by projector
  • 2' Cat6 from wall jack to projector


The projector displays the 3D settings menu which I assume means it recognizes the emitter, which is placed in direct line of sight about 10' from the viewing position.

But the glasses do not work. No 3D image. Apparently the emitter isn't working. The glasses are fully charged and appear fine. Tried 2 different pairs.

I have verified that all cabling is OK (by using them for a laptop patched to the switch).

Is the cabling the problem? Does the connection have to be direct from emitter to projector - i.e is using a building wiring infrastructure a no-no?

Is the 15 meters stated by Sony a hard limit?

Or is the emitter simply inop?

Finally I also tried direct connection from the emitter to the projector using a 5m Cat6 cable - with the same result.
Edited by politby - 11/3/12 at 1:18pm
post #2780 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by politby View Post


Is the 15 meters stated by Sony a hard limit?

Or is the emitter simply inop?

Finally I also tried direct connection from the emitter to the projector using a 5m Cat6 cable - with the same result.

are you seeing the stereo image on the screen? Is the emitter being plugged in before turning on the projector? For some reason, the emitter must be plugged in first before turning on the projector. If not, it won't correctly engage 3D mode until the projector is shut off then on again.
post #2781 of 3212

Sv: Official Sony VPL-HW30(A)ES Owners Thread

Yes, the stereo image is there, I can activate the various 3D modes and yes the emitter is plugged in before powering on the projector.

The glasses simply do not operate. It is difficult to ascertain if the emitter is operating because it has no power LED or other indicator.

As I understand it the projector should not even present the 3D menu unless it is detecting the emitter, but the latter might not be completely dead, just not emitting.

Skickat från min LT18i via Tapatalk 2
post #2782 of 3212
I've read nearly all of the posts on this thread, and decided that this would be one of the projectors I wanted. I shopped the stores, and looked online, and ended up buying a used HW-30 from a private party via Videogon. The picture is spectacular, even though I'm using a cheap no-name electric screen. I mounted the emitter above the screen, and ran a 25ft cat5 back to the projector. While playing Under The Sea, both the PJ1, and PS3 glasses work fine, but my BR50 don't. It's almost as if they don't receive the signal from the emitter. Is it absolutely necessary to have the polarizing filters?

BTW, our local Appleton Best Buy (Magnolia) still doesn't have their HW-30 hooked up with HDMI.

Thanks in advance,
Shawn
post #2783 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnsluft View Post

I've read nearly all of the posts on this thread, and decided that this would be one of the projectors I wanted. I shopped the stores, and looked online, and ended up buying a used HW-30 from a private party via Videogon. The picture is spectacular, even though I'm using a cheap no-name electric screen. I mounted the emitter above the screen, and ran a 25ft cat5 back to the projector. While playing Under The Sea, both the PJ1, and PS3 glasses work fine, but my BR50 don't. It's almost as if they don't receive the signal from the emitter. Is it absolutely necessary to have the polarizing filters?
BTW, our local Appleton Best Buy (Magnolia) still doesn't have their HW-30 hooked up with HDMI.
Thanks in advance,
Shawn

Hi, yes the polarizing filters are 100% necessary for the BR50's to work with the HW30.

I have posted a link to these to buy them direct from Sony in the past, do you need the link?

edit: here is the link. you will need 1 'kit' per pair of glasses. The BR50's work well for kids 6-12, definitely worth buying the filters.

https://www.servicesplus.sel.sony.com/sony-part-number-145831421.aspx
post #2784 of 3212
I was looking into the settings menu the other day and noticed "Film Mode" under "Expert Settings". The default appeared to be "Auto 1" which is what I've had it set at for the entire time I've owned the projector.

When watching TV, what is the desired setting for this? I switched it to "Off" and noticed that my micro-judders went away watching TV content (720p, 1080i) through my HTPC. Additionally, I noticed that MotionFlow didn't appear to have the same soap opera look to it. It was hard to distinguish from it being off.

So, my question is, what does this setting do and where should I keep it?
post #2785 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by NNate View Post

I was looking into the settings menu the other day and noticed "Film Mode" under "Expert Settings". The default appeared to be "Auto 1" which is what I've had it set at for the entire time I've owned the projector.

When watching TV, what is the desired setting for this? I switched it to "Off" and noticed that my micro-judders went away watching TV content (720p, 1080i) through my HTPC. Additionally, I noticed that MotionFlow didn't appear to have the same soap opera look to it. It was hard to distinguish from it being off.

So, my question is, what does this setting do and where should I keep it?

Regarding "micro judders", I had forgotten, but I had the same issue with video from my Xbox 360 (windows media center). I fixed it by doing what you did.

I believe the film modes perform 3-2 pull down to covert an original 24 fps movie, which is encoded as 60 fps on a DVD, back to 24 fps. If your bluray/DVD player is outputting 24 fps, this isn't needed.

Why is it a problem? My guess is the algorithm in the hw30 isn't great at detecting when pull down isn't needed and goofs up trying to do it anyway.

Luckily in my case, and many others, this feature isn't needed in a display and turning it off can be fine --- or better.

All depends on your setup.
post #2786 of 3212
Thanks for the response. Sounds like I'll never need to use "Film Mode" with my current setup if that is the case.

Any idea why the MotionFlow is much less evident now with Film Mode off - much less "soap opera" look? I can tell it's there with 24p material, but not so much with 60i/p.

In any case, I wish I had found this setting sooner. What a difference.
post #2787 of 3212
I keep reading that lcos/sxrd are reflective tech like dlps, thus allowing to have a sealed light/optic path....
I dont want to have to deal with dust blobs, thats why i am considering this over an Lcd... so my question, is this Sony sealed?
Thanks.
post #2788 of 3212
I've been told it is sealed. But I've never seen Sony say so...
post #2789 of 3212
Not sure but I have never heard of anyone complaining about dust blobs on SXRD projectors.
post #2790 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

Hi, yes the polarizing filters are 100% necessary for the BR50's to work with the HW30.
I have posted a link to these to buy them direct from Sony in the past, do you need the link?
edit: here is the link. you will need 1 'kit' per pair of glasses. The BR50's work well for kids 6-12, definitely worth buying the filters.
https://www.servicesplus.sel.sony.com/sony-part-number-145831421.aspx


I had a local Sony dealer order me a pair. The glasses now work great. Thanks for the tip.

Shawn
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