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Official Sony VPL-HW30(A)ES Owners Thread - Page 94

post #2791 of 3212
I'm using my HW30ES with a HTPC.

Running at 60Hz the image and text are nice and sharp, with 1-to-1 pixel mapping:

photo2wl.jpg

But at 24Hz text looks fuzzy:

photo1xlq.jpg

What am I doing wrong? Is there some way to enforce 1-to-1 pixel mapping in 24Hz? The Screen Menu (third icon from the top) is disabled when I'm in 24Hz.
Edited by bryan_chow - 11/19/12 at 6:41pm
post #2792 of 3212
Alright so even though I've had my projector for several months now (and loving it!), I've only started setting up 3D today.... Yeah I know tongue.gif

So I hooked up the emitter on top of the projector but it simply won't synch. Either the signal is too weak or my screen is not bright enough. I have a Carada BW 1.3 so probably the latter.
Running a cable all across the ceiling is really not ideal for me so I think I'm going to splurge and get some Monster Vision glasses and see how I can work out an RF converter. I have close to no experience soldering so should be fun!

I remember someone did a convert on this thread and also John made a cable for that purpose so I'll look into those.
post #2793 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drakul View Post

Alright so even though I've had my projector for several months now (and loving it!), I've only started setting up 3D today.... Yeah I know tongue.gif

So I hooked up the emitter on top of the projector but it simply won't synch. Either the signal is too weak or my screen is not bright enough. I have a Carada BW 1.3 so probably the latter.

Running a cable all across the ceiling is really not ideal for me so I think I'm going to splurge and get some Monster Vision glasses and see how I can work out an RF converter. I have close to no experience soldering so should be fun!

I remember someone did a convert on this thread and also John made a cable for that purpose so I'll look into those.

if you want to avoid running the cat5 cable to the front of the screen, you can use the MV3D RF transmitter with the factory Sony emitter.

The MV3D has an IR receiver on it that works fine with the Sony transmitter. You can bundle the wiring near the top of the projector to hide it. When the 2 IR devices are aimed at one another, the RF transmitter with light up with 5 solid green lights.

This definitely works and avoids having to make a custom cable.
post #2794 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

if you want to avoid running the cat5 cable to the front of the screen, you can use the MV3D RF transmitter with the factory Sony emitter.
The MV3D has an IR receiver on it that works fine with the Sony transmitter. You can bundle the wiring near the top of the projector to hide it. When the 2 IR devices are aimed at one another, the RF transmitter with light up with 5 solid green lights.
This definitely works and avoids having to make a custom cable.

Ah that's mighty interesting!! Thanks Jason.
I'm most likely going to order 2 Monster Vision pairs anyway since I need 2 more for when friends are around and play with it from there but that's great news.
post #2795 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by NNate View Post

Thanks for the response. Sounds like I'll never need to use "Film Mode" with my current setup if that is the case.
Any idea why the MotionFlow is much less evident now with Film Mode off - much less "soap opera" look? I can tell it's there with 24p material, but not so much with 60i/p.
In any case, I wish I had found this setting sooner. What a difference.

I'm not sure I noticed a difference in MotionFlow for 60i/p content (Planet Earth 2011 edition Blu-Ray) based on whether or not I had "Film Mode" engaged, but if you're definitely noticing it, then I believe you.

I can take a guess as to what's going on:

With "Film Mode" engaged, perhaps the algorithm was correctly taking your content (which was...?) and reverting it to 24p. With 24p content, MotionFlow has many more frames it can generate (for, e.g., 5:5 pulldown, it can generate anywhere from 1 to 4 extra frames, though I don't know what it actually does or it ever even runs 5:5 pulldown). With 60p content, a 120Hz TV can at most generate 1 extra frame in between frames.

Therefore, when I watch 60i/p content (Planet Earth) w/ Film Mode 'off', MotionFlow barely does anything. Compare that to the 24p version of Planet Earth (2006 release); even MotionFlow 'low' has a bit of soap opera effect (which, incidentally, I don't mind for Planet Earth... the motion smoothing actually helps).

So if 'Film mode' were correctly generating 24p frames from my 60i/p (I don't know what it actually is; box says 60i, but projector says it's receiving 1080/60p from my PS3), then there'd be no difference between the 2006 & 2011 releases of Planet Earth. Perhaps 'Film mode' just wasn't working for me w/ the 2011 Planet Earth release, but was working for whatever content you were watching & actually generating 24p content from the 60i/p content you were feeding it. In which case, MotionFlow would have much more 'room' to operate (it can generate more frames).
post #2796 of 3212
Based on my testing (see http://www.avsforum.com/t/1353988/official-sony-vpl-hw30-a-es-owners-thread/2790#post_22605588) the HW30ES CANNOT do 1-to-1 pixel mapping in 24Hz or 3D mode, at least not via a HTPC.

Can anyone confirm? Just set your player to use 24Hz, confirm it is 24Hz via the projector's menu, and look at sharp single-pixel image or text.
post #2797 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by bryan_chow View Post

Based on my testing (see http://www.avsforum.com/t/1353988/official-sony-vpl-hw30-a-es-owners-thread/2790#post_22605588) the HW30ES CANNOT do 1-to-1 pixel mapping in 24Hz or 3D mode, at least not via a HTPC.
Can anyone confirm? Just set your player to use 24Hz, confirm it is 24Hz via the projector's menu, and look at sharp single-pixel image or text.

That sounds extremely strange to me.

I can only speak for the HW50ES, but I doubt the 50 is much different from the 30 in this regard...

I can at least confirm that 24Hz output from my Retina MacBook Pro at 1080p works just fine. I get perfect 1:1 pixel mapping, based on this test pattern that uses 1px text: http://cl.ly/L5eJ/NEC_pattern_1.jpg

Cheers.
post #2798 of 3212
Hi, I have had this projector for a while, like it very much.

I put it on a shelf (not ceiling mount). I have found that my shelf is not completely level so the image is a little bit tilted to the right. Please note that I actually have a projector hole in my wall and the projector is on the shelf in the other room behind Theatre room. So adjusting it is very hard.

I am wondering if there is a product that can be used for shelf mount - i.e., fix the projector on the shelf and enable me to adjust the level, tilt, pan, etc. Can anyone point me to some product that can do this?

Thanks.
post #2799 of 3212
post #2800 of 3212
Hi All

I have had the 30ES for a few months now. I am still unable to decide as to what the best settings are in 2D and 3D to achieve a cinematic picture with the right skin tones for both animation based movies and real movies. I would really appreciate some insight into what settings people are using to get the best picture. Also does anyone know which THX discs have the THX optimizer on them and also how do you invoke the feature?

Thanks

yapota
post #2801 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by bryan_chow View Post

Can you test it with this pic?
http://www.marky.com/misc/testpatterns/Digital_TestPattern_ByMark.gif

Um, no thanks :-P I tested it with a 1920x1080 image... and it's perfect. Why would I test it with a tiny 300x340 image?
post #2802 of 3212
Because your picture does not test if it's really 1-to-1.

The picture I posted, albeit being only 300x340, is specially made to show severe artifacts whenever it is not displayed 1-to-1. Try it if you don't believe me.
post #2803 of 3212
Just tried the 1-to-1 pixel test image and apparently it really is 1-to-1 when running at 24Hz, but the text looks jagged/uneven. Really strange. Nobody else has this issue? Everything is as sharp in 24Hz as 60Hz??
post #2804 of 3212
Does anyone know if it's possible to do 3d gaming with nvidia based pc?
I've downloaded 3dtv play software and i can get to the tests of the nvidia logo flying around and the symbols for each eye, but then, when i go to the tick to enable 3d stereoscopic, it's greyed out?!
post #2805 of 3212
It only works if they approve your device. Last I knew they only supported 3D blu playback. :-(
post #2806 of 3212
So bad then! Was planing to do almost all 3d with my pc... gonna try mail them frown.gif
post #2807 of 3212
I had some luck with AMD/ATI but have not tried it a good while. I find I do most to almost all of my 3D in movies vs games. But I might have to give it go again soon and see if it gets better.
post #2808 of 3212
All,

I have a question. I made a decision that i will go with the Sony HW30 and I used coderguy's elite projector calculator to see where i can mount the projector. IM trying to make sure that im getting the right mount for my HT room. It is tell me the minimum pole length i would need to ceiling mount is 26 inches. Is that correct with the Sony HW30? Does that include with the HW30 Lens Shift? I attach a picture to show my measurements. Any help would be appreciated.
post #2809 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by icecold1936 View Post

All,
I have a question. I made a decision that i will go with the Sony HW30 and I used coderguy's elite projector calculator to see where i can mount the projector. IM trying to make sure that im getting the right mount for my HT room. It is tell me the minimum pole length i would need to ceiling mount is 26 inches. Is that correct with the Sony HW30? Does that include with the HW30 Lens Shift? I attach a picture to show my measurements. Any help would be appreciated.
If you use the formula in the manual, for a 106" diagonal screen, you have about 3 ft from the center of the screen to adjust WITHOUT lens shift. So, if your dimensions are correct, it looks like the 26" is correct. Then you get another 60ish% adjustment with lens shift. Keep in mind that the mount and distance from the mount to the center of the lens will also subtract from that #. For example, with my dimensions, the calculator says to use a 14" pole, but after subtracting out the mount height, the ceiling plate, and the distance from the top of the mount to the center of the lens, I am going to try using a 4" pole. (I had a 8" pole and that was too low - with lens shift, it looks like I can get away with the 4")
post #2810 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post

If you use the formula in the manual, for a 106" diagonal screen, you have about 3 ft from the center of the screen to adjust WITHOUT lens shift. So, if your dimensions are correct, it looks like the 26" is correct. Then you get another 60ish% adjustment with lens shift. Keep in mind that the mount and distance from the mount to the center of the lens will also subtract from that #. For example, with my dimensions, the calculator says to use a 14" pole, but after subtracting out the mount height, the ceiling plate, and the distance from the top of the mount to the center of the lens, I am going to try using a 4" pole. (I had a 8" pole and that was too low - with lens shift, it looks like I can get away with the 4")

Ok cool.. Thanks for the information and help. It has help me out alot. I think im going to go with the Peerless Universal Mount with the 18" extension.
post #2811 of 3212
I just bought a B-stock Sony HW30AES from Mike at AVS (Thanks Mike for info on it). It was a great deal especially with the 3 year manufacturer's warranty. So, Y'all might want to call Mike about before they are all gone. IM so pumped.. ready for it to be here.....
post #2812 of 3212
Solved.
Edited by leila80 - 12/1/12 at 1:57am
post #2813 of 3212
I think Nvidia cards only with work with 3D Vision displays for gaming.
post #2814 of 3212
Well I just updated to the Sony 95 (yee ha) so if anyone is looking for a spare HW30 I have one I'll be saying goodbye to, only 520hrs on it.
post #2815 of 3212
My wife bought be the Darbee as an early Xmas present.got it a little over a week ago. I was immediately impressed by the increase in detail. I spent the first couple of days turning it on and off to see the difference. Then I got distracted with life and just left it n without thinking about it. I found myself constantly being impressed by the image. I keep saying to myself, "that looks really good!"
It's not subtle. I've been in this since the info us x1. Upgrading about once a year, keeping my jvc rs1 for a couple of years as the longest, right before the hw30. I've always been disappointed by the upgrade, after a few days not really seeing the difference.
This is an amazing difference with the Darbee. The reports of it lifting a cloudy veil are not overstated. The sharpness is very noticeably better. Brightness seems increased. Depth is much better. Almost passive 3d. Best HV component I have ever purchased. Only problem I have with it is that it has reset it self twice, forcing me to go back into settings to redo all the settings.
I feel that I've gotten two projector upgrades for less than $300.
post #2816 of 3212
Dear Forum Members,

i bought a white Sony VPL-HW30ES projector. Hooked it up yesterday and already have some questions smile.gif This is not my first post, but i cant remember my old username. I used to own a Sony G70 a few years ago. I run a 96" Deluxx Elegenance Tension Screen with a 1.2 Gain. I use the Cinema 1 Mode with Gamma Off and in Low Light Mode. When i watch Batman Rises for example on my 16:9 screen i get these black bars on the top and the bottom. But they not black, more greyish. Is there a way increase the black level? I love the colors and the black, but not the level on these bars. Some scenes appear to be greyish (beginning scene were Batman is in Asia and walking to the temple) and others are really nice with the black level. I use the automated Iris 1 option.

I appreciate your input and hope that i can help others in the future as well.

Cheers
post #2817 of 3212
Hello,

I am looking for a new projector and I have been leaning towards the Epson TW-6100 (The equivalent US model is Epson 3020 I believe) - but I am now considering the Sony VPL-HW30ES too, even though that's going to be quite a stretch of my budget.

The room where I'm going to put the projector is a basement room which I can make completely dark if I want to. However the ceiling and walls are white, except for the wall where the projector is mounted (which is black/very dark grey). The floor is covered with a light grey carpet. I may be able to paint some walls a darker color (thinking a darkish red or something like that). With my current setup I have usually had a little bit of ambient light in the room (like a few candles and a very dimmed lamp on - not so close to the screen though) - but this is primarily because I have been getting tired in my eyes with my current projector in a complete dark room, this could change with a new projector though.

My screen is 92" diagonal 16:9, it's a slightly grey screen (as far as I remember the screen is called Quality Screen Greyline).

Regarding 3D I don't know how much I will be using it - I think it would be really cool to have, but I'm unsure how much I'd be using it as I haven't had 3D in my home before. It may turn out that I think it's awesome and use it a lot, but it may also turn out that I don't use it so often - it's a bit hard to tell for me.

Which projector would you think I should choose between these two? Is the increased cost of the Sony worth it over the Epson? I live in Denmark and the price of the Sony is approximately (after a currency change to USD) 2800$ and the Epson is 1900$

Let me know if there are some details I have missed, I hope someone can help me a bit, thanks smile.gif
post #2818 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shad0wDK View Post

Hello,
I am looking for a new projector and I have been leaning towards the Epson TW-6100 (The equivalent US model is Epson 3020 I believe) - but I am now considering the Sony VPL-HW30ES too, even though that's going to be quite a stretch of my budget.
The room where I'm going to put the projector is a basement room which I can make completely dark if I want to. However the ceiling and walls are white, except for the wall where the projector is mounted (which is black/very dark grey). The floor is covered with a light grey carpet. I may be able to paint some walls a darker color (thinking a darkish red or something like that). With my current setup I have usually had a little bit of ambient light in the room (like a few candles and a very dimmed lamp on - not so close to the screen though) - but this is primarily because I have been getting tired in my eyes with my current projector in a complete dark room, this could change with a new projector though.
My screen is 92" diagonal 16:9, it's a slightly grey screen (as far as I remember the screen is called Quality Screen Greyline).
Regarding 3D I don't know how much I will be using it - I think it would be really cool to have, but I'm unsure how much I'd be using it as I haven't had 3D in my home before. It may turn out that I think it's awesome and use it a lot, but it may also turn out that I don't use it so often - it's a bit hard to tell for me.
Which projector would you think I should choose between these two? Is the increased cost of the Sony worth it over the Epson? I live in Denmark and the price of the Sony is approximately (after a currency change to USD) 2800$ and the Epson is 1900$
Let me know if there are some details I have missed, I hope someone can help me a bit, thanks smile.gif
I have the Sony and love it but I don't have the Epson so I can't help you with comparisons. My post is to suggest not painting the walls but rather put up dark curtains. It depends: are you walls concrete or drywall etc? I mention this due to sound reflecting off of hard surfaces can be harsh sounding (thus my curtain suggestion).
Best luck with whatever you go with. You might check out websites like projector central to find reviews.
post #2819 of 3212
Hey guys,

I find the Sony 3D glasses to be so uncomfortable, it hurts my nose after half hour, and after watching a movie the nose of my bridge is red and tender, just the way I like my steak. I've been hearing about the Monster 3D glasses... are they still THE glasses to get as far as viewing quality is concerned? And are they comfortable? If yes to both, I already have ethernet cable set up... does this eliminate the need for it?

Many thanks in advance.
post #2820 of 3212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wryker View Post

I have the Sony and love it but I don't have the Epson so I can't help you with comparisons. My post is to suggest not painting the walls but rather put up dark curtains. It depends: are you walls concrete or drywall etc? I mention this due to sound reflecting off of hard surfaces can be harsh sounding (thus my curtain suggestion).
Best luck with whatever you go with. You might check out websites like projector central to find reviews.

Thanks for your suggestion smile.gif I am reading many reviews, the problem is sometimes to compare different projectors because they're reviewed under different circumstances (price etc.) - my walls are concrete, I did think about curtains but it's a bit more complicated than it sounds - the "cinema-area" is only part of the room and there are some obstacles along the walls so I wouldn't be able to put curtains right at the walls - it's a little hard to describe in words smile.gif

Also regarding the ceiling, I guess this is as important as the walls - but since the ceiling is quite low (about 220 cm - somewhere between 7 and 8 feet), I don't think it would be good to make it all dark, so I was thinking to perhaps make just a bit of it near the screen a dark color? Would this help at all?
Edited by Shad0wDK - 12/12/12 at 1:10am
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