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Official Sony VPL-HW30(A)ES Owners Thread - Page 97

post #2881 of 2987
1/10/13 at 8:21am
Sony gave me a work order number. I need to ship it down to their Laredo, TX repair facility. Kinda sucks that I both need to pay to ship it to them AND I have to be without a projector for probably 2 weeks (shipping time to them and then around 7 days until I get it back repaired). We're getting close to the SuperBowl here...

Maybe if I put up more of a fuss they'll be more accommodating??

When my old Samsung DLP RPTV went out they sent a technician out to my house the next day.

I didn't ask what they thought the problem was. Maybe I'll have to call them back to figure that out if the curiosity gets the better of me. The engineer that support talked to agreed there was a problem after seeing the picture.
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post #2882 of 2987
1/10/13 at 11:19am
It'd be really lame if you have to pay for shipping when it's still under warranty... is yours still under warranty? How long have you owned it? I'm assuming it has to still be under warranty, since this projector was announced in 2011, right?

How many hours do you think you've put on it? An optical block failure this soon is concerning...
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post #2883 of 2987
1/10/13 at 11:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by sarangiman View Post

It'd be really lame if you have to pay for shipping when it's still under warranty... is yours still under warranty? How long have you owned it? I'm assuming it has to still be under warranty, since this projector was announced in 2011, right?

How many hours do you think you've put on it? An optical block failure this soon is concerning...

Yes, I purchased it in early December 2011. It does have a 3 year warranty. After finding the warranty info and reading it - it states "To obtain warranty service, you must deliver the product, freight prepaid, in either its original packaging or packaging affording an equal degree of protection to the Sony authorized service facility specified." I read this as saying I must pay the freight. So I guess I can't rightfully expect more than their warranty promises...

I have somewhere between 400-500 hours on it now.
Edited by NNate - 1/10/13 at 11:50am
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post #2884 of 2987
1/10/13 at 11:42am
It's such a stark contrast with my experience with Samsung. Their repair cost me nothing under warranty and the issue was resolved in a day. That is an experience that I'll never forget and will forever remember Samsung for it.
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post #2885 of 2987
1/10/13 at 12:55pm
You'd think for an ES product they would do a little more from a warranty perspective. I just got a 50ES and had a very loud buzzing. Since I was within the first 90 days of ownership, they were willing to ship me a new unit and then I shipped my old unit back to them, postage paid by Sony each way. Now that I'm out of my 90 day window, any shipping to Sony is paid by me. For a $4000 product, warranty service should be better.

The only concession I can possibly give you is that the Service Center is usually quick. A few years back I had to send in my HS20 and they gave me the same story - 7-10 days, yada yada. But I received my PJ back in 4 days. I was quite surprised.
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post #2886 of 2987
1/10/13 at 1:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by NNate View Post

I have somewhere between 400-500 hours on it now.

Just curious. Are most of those hours with the bulb in low power mode or high power? Or do you view a lot of 3D which automatically puts it in high power?

I watch quite a bit of 3D on mine? I would guess 100 of the 350 on mine is from 3D viewing. For 2D I run low power, but I always run the fan in high. I would rather have a little extra backround noise vs. extra cooking of the equipement.

Sorry to hear about your issue. Please let us know what the resolution was to fix it if Sony is forth coming.

Never thought of it but it could be an issue with the bulb instead of a polarizer. We haven't heard of many polarizer failures on the SXRD units in the last few years especially on one with low hours.


Also I am assuming from your posts that you were operating the unit in an upright mode (table top) instead of upside down in a ceiling mount setup.

I'm located in the TC also. Where did you buy yours from? I went with AVS since none of the local businesses were willing to deal.
Edited by Toknowshita - 1/10/13 at 1:22pm
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post #2887 of 2987
1/10/13 at 1:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toknowshita View Post

Just curious. Are most of those hours with the bulb in low power mode or high power? .

Fwiw, I've got 700 hours on mine --- all high power --- and haven't experienced this.
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post #2888 of 2987
1/10/13 at 1:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toknowshita View Post

Just curious. Are most of those hours with the bulb in low power mode or high power? Or do you view a lot of 3D which automatically puts it in high power?

I watch quite a bit of 3D on mine? I would guess 100 of the 350 on mine is from 3D viewing. For 2D I run low power, but I always run the fan in high. I would rather have a little extra backround noise vs. extra cooking of the equipement.

Sorry to hear about your issue. Please let us know what the resolution was to fix it if Sony is forth coming.

Never thought of it but it could be an issue with the bulb instead of a polarizer. We haven't heard of many polarizer failures on the SXRD units in the last few years especially on one with low hours.


Also I am assuming from your posts that you were operating the unit in an upright mode (table top) instead of upside down in a ceiling mount setup.

I'm located in the TC also. Where did you buy yours from? I went with AVS since none of the local businesses were willing to deal.

I haven't used 3d and was in high power for maybe an hour or two since I've owned it. 99.99% of its life had been in low lamp and low fan.

Yes, running tabletop mounted with plenty of ventilation.

Bought it from AVS.
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post #2889 of 2987
1/12/13 at 9:28am
Down to one pair of MonsterVision glasses left for sale. $45 for Like New, used once condition.

Just a heads-up to anyone interested smile.gif
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post #2890 of 2987
1/15/13 at 11:39am
Hi guys.

I'm looking in to buying one of these and just wanted to know if anyone here owns one, if it has a PC mode? And does it have the ability to display 0-255, or on option to enable it?

I'll be PC gaming on this and console gaming you see.
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post #2891 of 2987
1/15/13 at 12:15pm
From the HW30 manual:

Notes on input of HDMI signal
The projector adjusts the RGB dynamic range of the equipment connected with HDMI cable to the following to suit the HDMI standard and display in best picture quality.
When video signal is input: Limited (16-235)
When computer signal is input: Full (0-255)

Now... if your PC gaming rig outputs what looks like video (e.g., a standard video HDMI format), it doesn't appear there is a specific setting available to force 0-255 mode (rather than 16-235). However, the manual does imply you can simply adjust the brightness and contrast to make it work.
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post #2892 of 2987
1/15/13 at 1:03pm
Just FYI, we have a couple of HW30 projectors still available!
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post #2893 of 2987
1/15/13 at 3:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMyers View Post

From the HW30 manual:

Notes on input of HDMI signal
The projector adjusts the RGB dynamic range of the equipment connected with HDMI cable to the following to suit the HDMI standard and display in best picture quality.
When video signal is input: Limited (16-235)
When computer signal is input: Full (0-255)

Now... if your PC gaming rig outputs what looks like video (e.g., a standard video HDMI format), it doesn't appear there is a specific setting available to force 0-255 mode (rather than 16-235). However, the manual does imply you can simply adjust the brightness and contrast to make it work.
thanks that helps a bit. What about a PC mode? Does it have one? The reason Im looking for one is obviously because I'll be using games consoles and a gaming PC with it, and what I know PC modes when available disable the YCBCR processing rubbish that isn't needed at all with RGB signals. I'm used to them with my Samsung plasma too.
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post #2894 of 2987
1/15/13 at 5:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyrone Burton View Post

thanks that helps a bit. What about a PC mode? Does it have one? The reason Im looking for one is obviously because I'll be using games consoles and a gaming PC with it, and what I know PC modes when available disable the YCBCR processing rubbish that isn't needed at all with RGB signals. I'm used to them with my Samsung plasma too.

Not that I'm aware. From my post above, the projector will (using your terminology) "assume PC mode" when a signal is provided to the projector that isn't a standard video signal. By standard video signal I mean a signal that is formatted in 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i or 1080p. Put another way, 1080p (a "video signal") = 16-235 levels and 1024x768 (a "non-video signal") = 0-255 levels.

It is my guess, per the Sony manual, that any signal can be treated correctly if you spend a few seconds and adjust the brightness and contrast correctly. The above most likely is how Sony determines the default brightness/contrast for various signals.
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post #2895 of 2987
1/16/13 at 10:25am
Hmm I see.not really for me then. The signals I will be sending will be 720p, and 1080p, so there will still be some YCBCR rubbish going on. So I'd have to unessesarily calibrate to sRGB and I don't have any professional equipment to do it.

Thanks anyway.
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post #2896 of 2987
1/16/13 at 10:34am
I think you are over thinking this. HDMI supports various color formats, including RGB. If your computer used RGB, the projector will adher to that color space.

In terms of brightness/contrast, it's as simple as displaying a test pattern and making a few clicks until you see all the grayscale levels.

If I have a moment tonight I will connect my MacBook and tell you exactly what happens.

Fwiw, IMHO, the hw30 (and now hw50) is the only pj out there that gives great results for movies and gaming.
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post #2897 of 2987
1/16/13 at 11:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMyers View Post

I think you are over thinking this. HDMI supports various color formats, including RGB. If your computer used RGB, the projector will adher to that color space.

In terms of brightness/contrast, it's as simple as displaying a test pattern and making a few clicks until you see all the grayscale levels.

If I have a moment tonight I will connect my MacBook and tell you exactly what happens.

Fwiw, IMHO, the hw30 (and now hw50) is the only pj out there that gives great results for movies and gaming.
ok thanks a lot.
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post #2898 of 2987
1/18/13 at 3:05pm
Sorry for the delay. I'm typing this while connected to the projector, so this is the largest window I've ever used to type anything on AVS...

I'm happy to report that everything just worked.

I used this test pattern

http://www.pbase.com/jackcnd/image/75285378

My HW30 has been basic calibrated (brightness/contrast) for video levels (16-235 from PS3 Bluray @ 1080p) on this HDMI input #. When I connected my laptop via HDMI to this same input, I was able to see the lowest and highest levels (0 - 255) from the test pattern. The laptop was outputting 1080p/60. I changed the resolution a couple times to non-via (1024x768 or whatever) and I could still see all the levels.

So I'm not 100% sure how the HW30 knew to do this since the PS3 is outputting 1080p/60 just like the laptop, but it's doing the right thing all by itself...
Edited by MadMyers - 1/18/13 at 5:08pm
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post #2899 of 2987
1/18/13 at 3:32pm
Thank you very much for taking the time to do the test. Does that apply to 0-255 at all, I mean is it outputting it? Or does that only work with PC resolutions?

The console games will be outputting 720@60hz most of the time, and my soon to be gaming PC will be outputting 1920x1080@60hz.
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post #2900 of 2987
1/18/13 at 5:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyrone Burton View Post

Thank you very much for taking the time to do the test. Does that apply to 0-255 at all, I mean is it outputting it? Or does that only work with PC resolutions?

The console games will be outputting 720@60hz most of the time, and my soon to be gaming PC will be outputting 1920x1080@60hz.

I wrote my post above very quickly (needed to leave) and now, 2 hours later, I see it wasn't very clear. I've edited that post. Hopefully it helps.

To specifically answer your question, Yes. I could see 0-255 when the laptop was connected. I could see 0-255 for the various resolutions I tested. I found this interesting because the PJ was basic calibrated (brightness/contrast) for video levels (16-235) using 1080p/60 --- which is the same output as the laptop. I don't know how it worked, but the HW did the right thing.
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post #2901 of 2987
1/18/13 at 5:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMyers View Post

I wrote my post above very quickly (needed to leave) and now, 2 hours later, I see it wasn't very clear. I've edited that post. Hopefully it helps.

To specifically answer your question, Yes. I could see 0-255 when the laptop was connected. I could see 0-255 for the various resolutions I tested. I found this interesting because the PJ was basic calibrated (brightness/contrast) for video levels (16-235) using 1080p/60 --- which is the same output as the laptop. I don't know how it worked, but the HW did the right thing.
thanks. Just one last question smile.gif

Do you know if the Color or tint controls were available when the projector was outputting 0-255? I'm just asking this because if there not available, it means it's just sending RGB untouched to the projector. But if there Still there, I can still calibrate to it (kind of).
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post #2902 of 2987
1/19/13 at 8:05pm
I'm around 1500 hrs on my hw 30. Im still super happy with everything. I wanted to purchase an extra bulb and it seems like the prices are a lot higher than when I bought the unit. Is Sony fixing the price now?
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post #2903 of 2987
1/29/13 at 12:10pm
To update on my "yellow" imaged projector. It's been at Sony for 8 business days now (according to my UPS tracking). I just got an e-mail saying the necessary parts are on backorder - it's been their first contact with me since receiving the projector. I called them up and the representative didn't know how long it would take to receive the parts and wasn't able to figure that out in their system. He said they'll give me a call back or an e-mail when they learn more (not holding my breath).

To satisfy my curiosity, I asked them what they were replacing. He confirmed that they saw the yellow/green haze in the image and they are replacing the optical unit and motherboard. Sounds like basically the whole inside to me minus the lamp.

And to think, I was told I'd have it back by the SuperBowl. Obviously that's not happening...
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post #2904 of 2987
1/29/13 at 12:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by NNate View Post

To update on my "yellow" imaged projector. It's been at Sony for 8 business days now (according to my UPS tracking). I just got an e-mail saying the necessary parts are on backorder - it's been their first contact with me since receiving the projector. I called them up and the representative didn't know how long it would take to receive the parts and wasn't able to figure that out in their system. He said they'll give me a call back or an e-mail when they learn more (not holding my breath).

To satisfy my curiosity, I asked them what they were replacing. He confirmed that they saw the yellow/green haze in the image and they are replacing the optical unit and motherboard. Sounds like basically the whole inside to me minus the lamp.

And to think, I was told I'd have it back by the SuperBowl. Obviously that's not happening...

That is disappointing... sadly it seems to be common more and more with electornics guys.

I wish everyone could be like Sanyo back in 2002... They had a quick repair program where they paid to overnight it back and forth and they did the work in a day or so... Oh well.
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post #2905 of 2987
1/29/13 at 12:23pm
Yeah, disappointing for sure. Shipping plus insurance cost me close to $100 just to get it there - now I have to wait an undisclosed amount of time just to get back a working unit.
Edited by NNate - 1/29/13 at 12:33pm
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post #2906 of 2987
1/29/13 at 2:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post

Down to one pair of MonsterVision glasses left for sale. $45 for Like New, used once condition.

Just a heads-up to anyone interested smile.gif

Yeah, I have a couple pair (1 Monster, 1 Optoma branded) sitting in their boxes. I got tired of messing with different tech items and so not using these anymore.

I just picked up a few sets of PS2 3D glasses from BB for $19.99/ea and was happy to find they retain sync much better than the more expensive ($149* TDG-PJ1) glasses that came with the HW30AES. Performance of the PS2 glasses is very good, and they were actually recommended over the TDG-PJ1 by a Sony support rep (due to the very low price of < $20). The more stylish Sony TDGBR750 are not recommended for dark HT room mainly due to lack of a frame boarder which is detrimental and results in high reflection from rear.

I have one pair of the TDG-PJ1 being replaced under warranty due to the IR being way too flakey at only 12ft from the IR transmitter mounted just above the pj screen at 8ft, while my other pair works perfectly. If you block the receiver on the PS2 glasses, the sync may drift for a bit, but it does not shut off immediately which allows for recovery and continuous usage without the annoying shutoff that prompted my call to Sony. For $20, the PS2 glasses are a steal and definitely good enough for kids, drunk buddies, etc.

* AV Science lists the TDG-PJ1 at $105/ea
Edited by coolplazma - 1/29/13 at 3:02pm
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post #2907 of 2987
2/1/13 at 8:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wryker View Post

The pj should be far enough from the ceiling for: 1) proper ventilation (found in the owners manual and same for distance from a back wall) and 2) to allow to align with your screen. This pj has a great range shift of up and down which I needed since the stud wasn't in the center of my screen. I moved my theater seats away from the wall (easier then remounting my retractable screen) so sit the optimum distance (10') from my 106" screen and the projector is at the miminum/closest distance I could mount it to get the throw I need and have it far enough from my back wall.

Guys, regarding rear ventalation comments....

This projector (like many current pjs) vents its hot air out the front, so other than not blocking the rear air intakes there is no reason to not shove the pj all the way back to a wall if that suits your theater configuration. Additionally, the curved rear shape prevents the intake vents from being completely blocked even when the pj is placed butt up against a rear wall. There is certainly no need for 1-2ft of rear clearance.

This works just fine (18" below a 9ft ceiling and only an inch or two from the rear wall - the gap created by the wall mount):

Edited by coolplazma - 2/1/13 at 8:28am
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post #2908 of 2987
2/1/13 at 8:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by KMR View Post

Can an RF 3D emitter be plugged directly into the HW30? Or would one need to make an IR -> RF (or vice versa) adapter?

Quote:
Originally Posted by EtherMagic View Post

The Hw30 does have an IR port (the port says IR on it and my MonsterVision emitter plug fits in it), but I cant seem to figure out how the MonsterVision glasses could work with it, as the Hw30 has no USB port so there is NO way possible to connect both the emitter and the power-source for the emitter (IR Reveiver) into it, plus the MosterVision emitter needs to be pluged into the IR Receiver that comes with it, cant be plugged directly into the HW30. Also, from all the professional reviews I read, it's best to place the Sony emitter (that comes with the HW30 for 3D) above the screen. The MonsterVision emitter could not find the single to the sony emitter unless I was about 3 feet from the screen, so I had to use the PlayStation 3 as the USB Power source, and place it close to the screen inorder to get a connection between the Sony emitter and the Monstervision emitter. I literally just set all this up a couple hours ago, so alot of work to do yet, but the 3D is KILLER!

My only problem with the MonsterVision glasses is I noticed the shutter speed from the second I put them on (same with the Sony glasses that came with the HW30), its a tad bit bothersome, I'm wondering if a firmwear update can help fix this or make it atleast better, or if the placement of the emitters have anything to do with it? I still have a lot of tweeking to do with my set-up, so I'll let you guys know how it goes. If anyone can help me on this go rite ahead and shoot for it.

BTW no buzzing noise from the glasses from the couple hours I was able to spend with them, and I had the sound off on my speaker system as my family is sleeping, I'm sure I would have heard it if there was buzzing.

Thx guys smile.gif

Ether

The MonsterVision IR receiver should be placed within inches of the Sony IR emitter. It will not function properly if you try pickup up IR over any larger distances. For USB power, you can use just about any powered hub. In fact, I used the 3D glasses's USB charger provided with the AES package as my MV USB power source. To charge all my glasses at the same time I use a 7 port powered USB hub and dangle all the "charger" cables from that.

If you can do some simple cable wiring/soldering it is possible to directly attach the MonsterVision RF emitter to the HW30 IR/Ethernet port and do away with the IR emitter and USB power source entirely if that is your preference. Trying to hardwire both to attach at the same time is more problematic than it is worth, but possible. Search this thread for posts from myself, Mark Haflich, etc, back around the Feb-March/12 timeframe. Prior to that, there is a guy in Europe that posted schematics for making a dual IR/RF adapter cable/circuitry.
Edited by coolplazma - 2/1/13 at 9:04am
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post #2909 of 2987
2/1/13 at 9:00am
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolplazma View Post

This works just fine (18" below a 9ft ceiling and only an inch or two from the rear wall - the gap created by the wall mount):

Which wall mount is that?
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post #2910 of 2987
2/1/13 at 9:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by NNate View Post

Which wall mount is that?

It's a sub-$40AV shelf from Peerless. Shelf mounting tip: if you cannot hit sufficient wall studs and don't trust heavy duty drywall plugs, then use a wider 3/4" plywood backing board (painted black of course) . After mounting the shelf to the wall, get a bubble level and do some rough leveling of the adjustable arms, then place your PJ on the shelf and do more serious leveling. The weight of the PJ will flex the shelf a little, so you need to do the final leveling with the PJ on the shelf. Since this PJ has a curved top, leveling using the underside works best.

Sure I could build a basic shelf with brackets for $10-15, but that would need to be 20 inches wide which is much bulkier than this minimalistic looking Peerless shelf. It almost looks like the projector is hanging in mid air and no air restriction around it.
Edited by coolplazma - 2/1/13 at 9:24am
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