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Official Sony VPL-HW30(A)ES Owners Thread - Page 24

post #691 of 2970
Yes. It will work fine. Once again I will repeat. The cat number 7e vs 5e is not like a thicker lower gauge speaker wire. The gauge is essentially the same for the wires the emitter is using. Cat 7e is just better shielded and may help the wire from picking up extraneous electromagnetic pulses which could cause the emitter to flash when the projector is not sending an inpulse. Basically, just use cat 5e.
post #692 of 2970
Quote:
Originally Posted by ratdogg View Post

I get the same thing. The closer you sit to the screen the more you see the double image because (with your head still) you are looking through the glasses at a more extreme angle to see the corners of the screen. If you move your head the ghosting pretty much disappears. This is obviously some artifact of the glasses, not the projector. Moving further away reduces the problem. When watching movies i've really not noticed it as a problem 'cos usually you move your head a little too, not just your eyes. I'm usually sitting 10-11ft from a 106" diagonal screen.

My other projector was much more crisp though. I wish I would have kept both for a couple days and checked them out side by side. I just made sure the fan on this new one was better, and it is much much quieter than my original, but the colors aren't as good on this one, and the 3d is way blurrier. Also, with this new projector, if I turn the IR emitter to 1 from 0 in the service menu, it stops working entirely. The old projector it worked fine.
post #693 of 2970
Yeah... Mark was right. The moment I turned on the blu ray player the 3d setting in the function menu popped up. Plugging in the emitter alone isn't enough. Thanks for helping me figure it out.
post #694 of 2970
My pleasure. This can be a very frustrating sport. That is where our forum can help one figure things out. I have learned more here than I could ever contribute.
post #695 of 2970
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

Yes. It will work fine. Once again I will repeat. The cat number 7e vs 5e is not like a thicker lower gauge speaker wire. The gauge is essentially the same for the wires the emitter is using. Cat 7e is just better shielded and may help the wire from picking up extraneous electromagnetic pulses which could cause the emitter to flash when the projector is not sending an inpulse. Basically, just use cat 5e.

Thanks!
post #696 of 2970
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roshy View Post

My other projector was much more crisp though. I wish I would have kept both for a couple days and checked them out side by side. I just made sure the fan on this new one was better, and it is much much quieter than my original, but the colors aren't as good on this one, and the 3d is way blurrier. Also, with this new projector, if I turn the IR emitter to 1 from 0 in the service menu, it stops working entirely. The old projector it worked fine.

You're really making my decision more difficult (or perhaps easier) on whether I should exchange mine or not. While I'm pretty sure my fan isn't as loud as yours was, I can't help but think it's not as quiet as what some here are indicating. Everything else with mine seems fine so you have me thinking maybe I should just quit while I'm ahead. I think I can live with the fan noise - I only hear it when there is no other sound in the room, but I can clearly hear it from 5' away, even on low lamp.

I put up the screen last night. It's a 120" Elite Home 2 model, electric pull down. I believe the advertised gain is 1.1 but I have a hard time believing there is any gain with the screen. Quite frankly I don't think it looks any different than the temporary black out cloth I was projecting it on prior. But I didn't really expect much difference either. The screen does seem very high quality, and there are no waves or imperfections at all. I wanted to get a tab tensioned but would have had to step down to 110", so I decided to go bigger and non tab tensioned. With the price I paid, I won't mind replacing the screen in a few years if I have to.

So I'm pretty happy with the picture, and I'm very happy I was able to get the discrete codes going for on/off and HDMI1/HDMI2. Other than that, my main gripes are:

- As mentioned, the fan noise seems like it should be lower, but I have nothing to compare it to other than my 5 year Sanyo PLV-Z4 and I would say the Sony is slightly quieter than that.
- Slow boot up time. Others have indicated that this projector is actually fast compared to others so I guess I wasn't aware of this. My Sanyo boots up in about 3 seconds.
- The HDMI inputs seem a little finicky. They take a few seconds to engage when I switch inputs. I also noticed that on my HTPC, running XBMC, if I start to play a movie, the screen goes black for about a second or two and the "HDMI" indicator displays, and then the video displays. It's like it's acting as if I'm switching inputs even though I'm not. Is this normal?

Just a general question, how come when I hit the Black Level button on the remote, it always says "Not available"?

Also, out of the box my contrast was set to 90, is that normal?
post #697 of 2970
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScoHo View Post

You're really making my decision more difficult (or perhaps easier) on whether I should exchange mine or not. While I'm pretty sure my fan isn't as loud as yours was, I can't help but think it's not as quiet as what some here are indicating. Everything else with mine seems fine so you have me thinking maybe I should just quit while I'm ahead. I think I can live with the fan noise - I only hear it when there is no other sound in the room, but I can clearly hear it from 5' away, even on low lamp.

I put up the screen last night. It's a 120" Elite Home 2 model, electric pull down. I believe the advertised gain is 1.1 but I have a hard time believing there is any gain with the screen. Quite frankly I don't think it looks any different than the temporary black out cloth I was projecting it on prior. But I didn't really expect much difference either. The screen does seem very high quality, and there are no waves or imperfections at all. I wanted to get a tab tensioned but would have had to step down to 110", so I decided to go bigger and non tab tensioned. With the price I paid, I won't mind replacing the screen in a few years if I have to.

So I'm pretty happy with the picture, and I'm very happy I was able to get the discrete codes going for on/off and HDMI1/HDMI2. Other than that, my main gripes are:

- As mentioned, the fan noise seems like it should be lower, but I have nothing to compare it to other than my 5 year Sanyo PLV-Z4 and I would say the Sony is slightly quieter than that.
- Slow boot up time. Others have indicated that this projector is actually fast compared to others so I guess I wasn't aware of this. My Sanyo boots up in about 3 seconds.
- The HDMI inputs seem a little finicky. They take a few seconds to engage when I switch inputs. I also noticed that on my HTPC, running XBMC, if I start to play a movie, the screen goes black for about a second or two and the "HDMI" indicator displays, and then the video displays. It's like it's acting as if I'm switching inputs even though I'm not. Is this normal?

Just a general question, how come when I hit the Black Level button on the remote, it always says "Not available"?

Also, out of the box my contrast was set to 90, is that normal?

- the screen going black is likely the refresh rate changing, so your desktop is probably 1080p, 60fps, and the movie is 1080p 24fps and its switching to that
- I haven't messed with the black level yet, I'll have to check on that tomorrow
- My contrast for cinema 1 is definetely set to 90 out of the box, and the picture looks best that way
- I can hear my fan too when theres absolutely no other noise in the room from 5 feet away, barely, its pretty quiet though. My other one was just REALLY loud. But the picture quality was definetely better on my other one out of the box. I have been messing around with the new one all night and think I have some decent settings that I can live with for now. I'm really hoping I can calibrate this thing and make it look good though. I just wish the picture looked the same out of the box on my new one. Touching nothing the old one looked awesome. Touching nothing on my new unit, all the color looks washed out, the blue dudes in avatar are a very light blue, trees are barely green, etc. I think I have it mostly fixed though... mostly..
post #698 of 2970
Im thinking hard on this unit. The only downside is for me having to run the cat7 through a tight attic. I wish it would work off the screen like the other models.
post #699 of 2970
Quote:
Originally Posted by kutlow View Post

Im thinking hard on this unit. The only downside is for me having to run the cat7 through a tight attic. I wish it would work off the screen like the other models.

At least you have an attic. I have holes in the ceiling that I've hired a guy to come patch. Totally worth it though.
post #700 of 2970
Quote:
Originally Posted by kutlow View Post

Im thinking hard on this unit. The only downside is for me having to run the cat7 through a tight attic. I wish it would work off the screen like the other models.

for some reason, it works perfect for me bouncing off my 142" screen from 16 foot throw. I turned up the emiitter setting in the service menu just because, but didn't need it. Maybe my HP screen has something to do with with it.
post #701 of 2970
When I turned up the emitter in the service menu my emitter stopped working properly. My old projector worked fine.
Zombie, did you see my post on the previous page regarding the glasses? Do yours work like that too?
post #702 of 2970
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roshy View Post

When I turned up the emitter in the service menu my emitter stopped working properly. My old projector worked fine.
Zombie, did you see my post on the previous page regarding the glasses? Do yours work like that too?

I missed it.. can you point me to the post?

btw, if you aren't feeling confident about this projector overall (colors not looking right, 3D fuzzy, etc) you might want to consider another exchange. I know it's a pain and I hate the idea of keeping swapping projectors...

but it is a fair investment and I had to swap out 3 Mitsubishi HC5500 LCD's back in 2008 because 2 had major convergence issues (some of the worst i've ever seen) and 1 had uneven focus across the screen. Mitsubishi finally told me 'no more' and I did something insane at the time when I had 3 of the same models in front of me. I took out the entire lens assembly of the one with good focus and installed it into the model with best convergence.

I sent back the other bad models and called it a day. I wasn't too happy about the response I got from Mitsubishi and decided not to buy their products again until I know they have better QA and customer service. The somewhat expensive 9000 model has a non-functioning CMS yet they continue to sell it, so I am still weary of getting a Mitsubishi.

It sounds like Sony is reasonable to work with on issues.
post #703 of 2970
Quote:
Originally Posted by jutang View Post

Anyone able to get the 3D working using a cat 5 cable? Tried last night plugging in a few cat 5 cables last night with the projector off and the sony never registered the 3D transmitter.

I'm running a 15 meter Cat-5 without problems. Please note that you need to turn the projector OFF while inserting the emitter cable otherwise the PJ wont recognize it.

Read my post about Cat7 here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post20836508
post #704 of 2970
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

I missed it.. can you point me to the post?

btw, if you aren't feeling confident about this projector overall (colors not looking right, 3D fuzzy, etc) you might want to consider another exchange. I know it's a pain and I hate the idea of keeping swapping projectors...

but it is a fair investment and I had to swap out 3 Mitsubishi HC5500 LCD's back in 2008 because 2 had major convergence issues (some of the worst i've ever seen) and 1 had uneven focus across the screen. Mitsubishi finally told me 'no more' and I did something insane at the time when I had 3 of the same models in front of me. I took out the entire lens assembly of the one with good focus and installed it into the model with best convergence.

I sent back the other bad models and called it a day. I wasn't too happy about the response I got from Mitsubishi and decided not to buy their products again until I know they have better QA and customer service. The somewhat expensive 9000 model has a non-functioning CMS yet they continue to sell it, so I am still weary of getting a Mitsubishi.

It sounds like Sony is reasonable to work with on issues.

I am strongly considering returning this one as well. I'm just scared of getting a loud fan, focus issues or this color issue again combined with one of the other problems...

The post I was referring to on the glasses: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post20890688
post #705 of 2970
Yeah-- I got the 3d working with the cat 5. I was plugging in the emitter with the Sony projector turned off, but never bothered turning on my blu ray play so the 3d setting never popped up in the function menu. Without a 3d source the 3d menu doesn't appear even though the emitter is installed correctly.
post #706 of 2970
Quote:
Originally Posted by studiox_swe View Post

I'm running a 15 meter Cat-5 without problems. Please note that you need to turn the projector OFF while inserting the emitter cable otherwise the PJ wont recognize it.

Read my post about Cat7 here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post20836508

FYI, I've found that as long as you turn on the projector with the emitter plugged in, you can plug/unplug it as much as you want afterwards.
post #707 of 2970
Quote:
Originally Posted by jutang View Post

Yeah-- I got the 3d working with the cat 5. I was plugging in the emitter with the Sony projector turned off, but never bothered turning on my blu ray play so the 3d setting never popped up in the function menu. Without a 3d source the 3d menu doesn't appear even though the emitter is installed correctly.

That is actually not true, how would you enable 2D->3D conversion or sources where auto-detect fails?
post #708 of 2970
Quote:
Originally Posted by browerjs View Post

FYI, I've found that as long as you turn on the projector with the emitter plugged in, you can plug/unplug it as much as you want afterwards.

Good to know, thanks!
post #709 of 2970
Quote:
Originally Posted by studiox_swe View Post

That is actually not true, how would you enable 2D->3D conversion or sources where auto-detect fails?

I had the same question, but I'm guessing that there was no source coming in at all.
post #710 of 2970
Quote:
Originally Posted by studiox_swe View Post

That is actually not true, how would you enable 2D->3D conversion or sources where auto-detect fails?

If you have a 2d source connected via HDMI with the power turned on then you the 3d setting will be present in the function menu. If you have a 2d source connect via component, the 3d setting will not be present.

If you just turn on the projector, but none of your other HDMI connected equipment, the 3d setting will not be present (at least for me).
post #711 of 2970
Quote:
Originally Posted by jutang View Post

If you have a 2d source connected via HDMI with the power turned on then you the 3d setting will be present in the function menu. If you have a 2d source connect via component, the 3d setting will not be present.

If you just turn on the projector, but none of your other HDMI connected equipment, the 3d setting will not be present (at least for me).

I'm not using component at all - PJ is connected to my Yamaha amp that takes care of all my HDMI + component sources (in fact the only source i have that is component is my old Sony 777ES dvd megachanger).

I got the 3d menu as soon as i connected the emitter independent on source but I could just have been lucky.
post #712 of 2970
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by studiox_swe View Post

I'm not using component at all - PJ is connected to my Yamaha amp that takes care of all my HDMI + component sources (in fact the only source i have that is component is my old Sony 777ES dvd megachanger).

I got the 3d menu as soon as i connected the emitter independent on source but I could just have been lucky.

Random and shalow musings:

Could it also be dependent on the source resolution/scan rate? For instance unless you feed it 720p 60Hz or 1080p 24 60Hz (can side-by-side be 1080p 60Hz or must it be 1080i 60Hz?) the 3D option becomes unavailable.
post #713 of 2970
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

for some reason, it works perfect for me bouncing off my 142" screen from 16 foot throw. I turned up the emiitter setting in the service menu just because, but didn't need it. Maybe my HP screen has something to do with with it.

Yes, an HP screen does seem to bounce an IR signal better than a lower gain screen. At least that is how it is between my 2.8 gain HP screen and my 1.2 gain Center Stage XD screen.
post #714 of 2970
Quote:
Originally Posted by William View Post

Random and shalow musings:

Could it also be dependent on the source resolution/scan rate? For instance unless you feed it 720p 60Hz or 1080p 24 60Hz (can side-by-side be 1080p 60Hz or must it be 1080i 60Hz?) the 3D option becomes unavailable.

The manual towards the end did have something along this effect in a table. If I was really reading the manually carefully I would have realized my 3d issue much sooner.

I tried the 3d last night and had some issue with ghosting. I was watching yogi bear and I noticed ghosting with tree branches and yogi's collar. Once I picked it out I couldn't stop noticing the damn thing. I decreased the 3d settings to -1 and decreased the brightness on my glasses, but it was still noticable. I'm going fool with the emitter's position tonight and increase it's strength from 0 to 1 to see if that has an effect.
post #715 of 2970
It won't have any effect. It might help if you are losing 3D emitter signal which will cause both shutters to open appear as a brighter screen and no 3D but double vision where the left and right images differ but it will have nothing to do with ghosting you see when you 3D on the screen. Animation does not have all parts of the image in 3D usually.
post #716 of 2970
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

It won't have any effect. It might help if you are losing 3D emitter signal which will cause both shutters to open appear as a brighter screen and no 3D but double vision where the left and right images differ but it will have nothing to do with ghosting you see when you 3D on the screen. Animation does not have all parts of the image in 3D usually.

I figured that may the case. When I went to Joe's house and saw a final destination demo, I didn't notice any ghosting at all and that is with the projecter I am using currently. I was farther away from the screen at his place, but his screen size was also much bigger.

The 3d signal did drop a few times for me, which was due to a combination of bad emitter placement and low batteries from the glasses. The ghosting may have been accentuated with the way yogi is animated with a bright white collar next to brown fur. I'll have to check out some other 3d titles before I make my mind about the 3d quality on this projector.

I absolutely love the 2d quality though and am thrilled with this projector.
post #717 of 2970
Quote:
Originally Posted by William View Post

Random and shalow musings:

Could it also be dependent on the source resolution/scan rate? For instance unless you feed it 720p 60Hz or 1080p 24 60Hz (can side-by-side be 1080p 60Hz or must it be 1080i 60Hz?) the 3D option becomes unavailable.

That is true. I booted my MacPro into Windows 7 (yak!) today to try some PowerDVD 3D movies (that btw. failed in all ways) and noticed that SBS is not possible when the screen is setup to 1080p/24 for example. That option just disappeared in the 3D menu.
post #718 of 2970
Quote:
Originally Posted by jutang View Post

The manual towards the end did have something along this effect in a table. If I was really reading the manually carefully I would have realized my 3d issue much sooner.

I tried the 3d last night and had some issue with ghosting. I was watching yogi bear and I noticed ghosting with tree branches and yogi's collar. Once I picked it out I couldn't stop noticing the damn thing. I decreased the 3d settings to -1 and decreased the brightness on my glasses, but it was still noticable. I'm going fool with the emitter's position tonight and increase it's strength from 0 to 1 to see if that has an effect.

I got my emitter yesterday and I have just started to play with 3D. My limited experience showed me that changing the "depth" 3d settings from 0 to - or + did not have any effect on ghosting.

Ghosting however where noticeable depending on source. I have only played mkv SBS for now (Have no 3D BD yet) and my first conclusions are that IMAX 3D movies works best (some has no ghostings at all), but others has really huge crosstalk (About 1cm on a 98" screen)

I have also noticed that most movies has "depth" but not the true "pop 3d" that I love in IMAX movies (theater).

It would be nice to share 3D movies experience with others there. I'm trying to find good reference 3d movies or demos but have not yet been so successful (Only found a crappy LG 3D demo)

I can recommend the IMAX Space Station "movie" - That was awesome
post #719 of 2970
Quote:
Originally Posted by studiox_swe View Post

It would be nice to share 3D movies experience with others there. I'm trying to find good reference 3d movies or demos but have not yet been so successful (Only found a crappy LG 3D demo)

I can recommend the IMAX Space Station "movie" - That was awesome

That is a really good thought. I went over to the Blu ray software section and there hasn't been a thread started on 3d picture quality. I'm sure different projectors, tvs, glasses would make it challenging, but it would be a nice thread to help point 3d newbies like me in the right direction.
post #720 of 2970
Quote:
Originally Posted by studiox_swe View Post

I got my emitter yesterday and I have just started to play with 3D. My limited experience showed me that changing the "depth" 3d settings from 0 to - or + did not have any effect on ghosting.

Ghosting however where noticeable depending on source. I have only played mkv SBS for now (Have no 3D BD yet) and my first conclusions are that IMAX 3D movies works best (some has no ghostings at all), but others has really huge crosstalk (About 1cm on a 98" screen)

I have also noticed that most movies has "depth" but not the true "pop 3d" that I love in IMAX movies (theater).

It would be nice to share 3D movies experience with others there. I'm trying to find good reference 3d movies or demos but have not yet been so successful (Only found a crappy LG 3D demo)

I can recommend the IMAX Space Station "movie" - That was awesome

Any sbs mkv I've tried looks TERRIBLE. I'm talking about the ones that are 1920x1080, so the 2 images for each eye are squished. Actual 3D content like blurays look GREAT. I've found top/bottom 3d content squished into 1920x1080 looks way way better than sbs so far. Could just be the sources though... just sharing my experience.
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