Official Sony VPL-HW30(A)ES Owners Thread - Page 26

Greetings seeker of the darkness. Come to the light side.

Is this a strange brew of 3D glasses or what? The MV3D's are still the most comfortable, I have to find a way to get them working with the Sony. The IR blaster on the RF transmitter must be getting a wrong signal for ghosting to be as bad as it is with the MV3D's.

I need to hard wire it via 3Pin -> RJ45. my kingdom for pinouts of that RJ45 connector.

Yes, but they are more sensible then the Sony´s about the sync to the transmitter

BTW the 90ES is a LOT better with regards to sync the glasses to the projectors (and that is with the build in transmitter ), the 30ES is harder to get to sync stabil.

dj

Sensible or sensitive?

Sh*t, my english is not that god .....whats the difference betwen the two words

I mean unstable, to much moving around with the head and the sync is off. ( but it has to be said, that this was with the transmitter put at the projector,so the signal was bouncing off the screen and back to the glasses)

The xpand was the most "sensitive", the Sony´s better, but still not very stable. So with the 30ES, I would absolutly put the transmitter in front of me - there is was very stable
I tried the "1" transmitter strength in the service menu too and it didnt make it better - actully the opposive - so I would use the normally "0" setting.

With the 90ES, I never had a "drop out" off sync with the Sony´s ( the PJ1 too ) or the Xpands ( this with the build in transmitter, and the signal bouncing off the screen - distance about 3 m from the projector/transmitter to the screen and again allmost 3 m to my sitting spot in all case).

dj

I am thinking about getting this project but don't know the best gain screen to get. I bought a SI BD .8, was on sale, but thought that might be to dark for 3D. Was thinking of going with a screen of 1.1 or 1.4. Thoughts? Thanks!

Any chance some lucky owner could measure the input lag of this projector? Maybe with Guitar Hero or similar or with clock against a crt display. If possible in 2D and 3D modes? I would very much appreciate this information. If you cannot give any numbers a general feel playing some games requiring some reactions would be most welcome. Thanks Harkko

I was talking to my friend about those 3 D tv's and he happen to know quite a bit about them and he told me that according to the research the 3d tv is bad for your health. Is that true?

What size screen and throw distance are you thinking about.

I tried this tonight and see exactly what you are talking about. I queued up the same frame in Avatar where the glowing frame is in the background. With the Sony glasses, you can move your head back and forth and see the ghosting increase significantly. also a shift in brightness if I pay close attention.

This also happens on the Sony BR50 glasses with the polarizing filters I just installed.

This doesn't happen on my Xpand 103's. If I set brightness of the glasses to 3 (default is 4) the Xpands become solid and I don't lose my sync every 10-15 seconds like I was before. If you tilt the 103's side to side, this doesn't happen at all.

There is something unique about the Sony glasses, likely the polarizing filters they use. imo, there is a good chance your 1st projector was similar but wasn't scrutinizing it as closely as you are now with the replacement. I didn't notice this until you said sometime.

I am glad my Xpand 103's are working now. I'm going to watch some 3D clips to see how they look in comparison to the Sony's.

I've spent some time comparing the Sony glasses to the x103 in brightness setting 3 and I really can't see any difference at all, brightness and ghosting seem to be on par - I actually found the sync to be slightly more stable with the X103s and they don't have they irrating issue of when you move your head, and they don't pinch my nose!!

These differences are probably just caused by unit to unit variation.

The released data in our review is based on about 12 final series units.
In other words: These are all "average" values! We use that method for some years already in order to avoid, that our released measurements are just based on a "golden unit", which might not represent the series average.

Meaning: Among the 12 machines we measured, there were also units with a slightly higher native contrast ratio matching the one of Toms unit. But the average of all 12 was a bit lower.

Regards,
Ekki

Thanks William. I did post in the screen section but with over 65 views and no replies, kind of sucks. I was think in the 1.1 and 1.4 gain and I appricate your help. Shouldn't have any wide seating as all for seats should/will be along the screen.


Hey Mike. I talked to you on Friday about this projector and the Optima. I had a screen but took it back. I am thinking of a 100" screen and the throw is around 12 or 15. Thanks again for all your help.

Thanks for looking at this. I was hoping this is what it was, that I'm just looking too hard for flaws. I have actually found settings now that my picture colors look great again, and if I keep 3D depth at 0 the ghosting isn't much of an issue as long as I'm not waving my head around looking for ghosting.

How did you get the expands working? Did I miss that post? Are the colors ok doing that? I want to pick up some more glasses and if the expands look good and don't do the ghosting at various angles I'd definitely get those.

This is probably a dumb question. Is there any way to tell if you are using an horizontal lens shift? Reason I'm asking is if I can guarantee I'm not using It, then it makes hanging the projector easier. I can just measure the screen is in the middle of the wall, and that the projector is in the middle of the ceiling. Then just make sure the image is centered. If there's any horizontal shift happening though, the image might be centered, but the mount is twisted. I think I got the horizontal shift gone by raising the image as far as I can, moving the horizontal shift left or right if I could, then shifting it higher, and repeating until I can't move the image up any more, but wondered if there's a way to check that I'm missing.

Roshy. Your measurement system does not guarantee projector lens centering to the screen. Side walls are almost never a perfect 90 degrees from the screen wall. The longer the throw, the more error.

To see if you are using horizontal lens shift, try looking at the lens when the chip image is exiting it. Turn the contrast down first. Get the image centered the best you can, you can even measre the sides of the chip image on the glass from the barrel. Just don't scratch the glass. If you are off one click or so, don't worry.

So basically the image on the lens shifts to the left and right when using lens shift? That's good to know. I'll likely use some type of laser to make sure the projector is perpendicular to the wall after guestimating with distance from the wall. Too ba theres no type of metric on that internally to the projector. I think I have it close though using the method I described above by uskf te characteristics of not being able to use max vertical shift when using an horizontal.

Roshy. Horizontal shift moves it horizontally left right, vertical lens shift up down. Some projectors have a recenter toggle in the service menu. This one doesn't.

thanks to your post, I decided to dig deeper with the Xpand 103's and my Monster Vision 3D RF glasses.

Here is some findings that are going to be a little shocking... I found settings within the MV3D transmitter that almost completely eliminated ANY signs of ghosting, even during the most difficult scenes. I don't know how I missed this the first time I tried it a few weeks ago.

Here is some info:

1. Expand 103's - cycled through the various modes to get it to sync with the HW30. I believe it's #4 on the cycle (it's the only one that will sync as far as I can tell). This causes 5-10 second flashing. If I lower the 'glasses brightness' in the HW30 menu, it will be rock solid and offer identical performance as the Sony's, WITHOUT the bizarre effect of the polarizers creating ghosting while moving your head around. The tint of the 103's isn't my favorite, but it's certainly not a deal breaker.

2. Monster Vision 3D - I have the RF transmitter powered by a blackberry charger. I am using the IR receiver that comes with it and keep it close to the Sony emitter. Perfect 5 bars of sync signal. After going through some of the timing adjustments randomly, I found one that reduces the ghosting by a substantial amount as you can see in the photos below. The best part is, now that it's RF, I don't have to fuss with the Sony emitter if I choose to use the RF glasses.

Photos: 1st is no glasses, 2nd is the Sonys, 3rd is the Xpand 103's and 4th is the Monster Vision 3D. Notice the sign, the ghosting is almost completely imperceivable in the photo and is invisible to my eyes when A-B between the Sony, Xpand and MV3D's.

I also find the MV3D's the most comfortable since I wear prescription glasses. They are larger and don't have the curved arms.

no glasses - look at the sign and the light behind his left ear.



Sony


Xpand 103


Monster Vision 3D

Zombie,

Could you add the 2d version of this take?

thks a lot!!!!

The monsters look great! I agree! Although it is a tad bit darker, but not by much, definitely worth a bit darker to get virtually no ghosting. I might have to look into getting some monsters. Zombie, are the settings you are using something you could post?

I don't know anything about the monsters, but sounds like you need another power connection near the projector for it? Ill have to make sure I wire up both plugs when I install stuff this and next week. I was originally planning on only hooking up the projector.

I didn't get the ethernet pinouts yet... I originally assumed it wasn't going to work with the IR since it didn't work with the JVC IR emitter. It works just fine with the Sony which is good news.

The MV3D's have a unique cooler colored tint than the other glasses, although the Sony (when activated) looks closer to the MV3D tint color than the yellowish/green Xpand103's (which stay that color when the shutters are activated).

I have to spend more time before deciding which glasses are all around best, it was 4am when I discovered the setting that looks as good as it does. Since I can have all 3 glasses (Sony/Xpand/MV3D) running at the same time, I'll go through more of the tough ghosting scenes to see how the MV3D in this particular setting works and let you guys know.




They are a tad darker, likely because of the timing settings I am running in the RF module. They are measured in colored leds (1-5) with minor flickering in between that can change quite a bit going from one LED to the next. There is no way to look at the module and say exactly what the settings are.

There is a PC program that can be used to program the module via the USB port.. upload changes to the RF modules and then hook it up to see the results. I don't think it can be done in real time which is a pain. I will do it anyway since i'd like to help identify the settings I am running before I change them and forget how I got this to begin with.

btw, there is no setting in the glasses brightness or 3D settings for the Sony glasses that can get as ghost free as the image you see with the MV3D's. This is something unique in the RF module that allowed me to tune it out. I was never able to get this far tuning out the ghosting with these glasses and the JVC, so I might have to go back and try again.

I'll have more info later in the week, I am definitely going to be doing some more comparing between the 3.

I do see what your talking about with the Sony glasses. I don't see it as a problem as the movie is playing, but you found a good scene to make it stand out if you play around with it. odd that it doesn't happen in the slightest bit on the 103's or the MV3D's.

Cool. Keel us posted. I'm very interested in this since it seems I'm hyper sensitive to ghosting. Probably because I'm always looking for problems with things . So there is definitely no settings anywhere to fine tune when the signal is sent for the emitter? I'm just wondering if you advance or delay the signal if that would help.

I can't see any other way to tune the Sony glasses other than the 2 built in settings. The MV3D device has settings all it's own. I downloaded and installed the software for the MV3D RF transmitter and taking a look at it now.

btw, I am also hyper-sensitive to ghosting, especially after owning the Acer 5360 3D DLP which is completely ghost free. it's only 720P but the ghost-free image is great for the cheap price. Their upcoming 9500 1080P 3D with lens shift could be a real sleeper putting a hurtin' on the much more expensive projectors coming out this year.. at least in regard to ghost-free 3D.

I'll give some feedback once I get through some of the other tough scenes with the MV3D's at the current setting.

Generally, every time you put in a wall or ceiling receptical, one should have installed a duplex. Secong one could alway install a whatever you call it to provide extra recepticals because anything else you put say on top of the projector (say attached to the ceiling mount, will be very low current draw.

I have a duplex up there right now, I am just going to re-wire it to go to an inlet in the wall near my AV area to plug into a UPS. Not sure if you can wire up both receptacles off the duplex off one inlet from the UPS, or I'd need a second inlet for that. My father is the one doing the electrical, so I'll have to ask him. If you can only hook up one receptacle to one inlet, then I'll either have to install a second inlet near the AV area, or just leave the current duplex up there, and install a new one for the projector only.

Oh, William. Thanks for uploading your panels for the projector. Saved me a lot of time!