New Optoma HD33 HD3300 1080p 3D Projector Review - Page 54

Good idea if you don't already own a pair. I have both (RF and DLP-LINK) and they both work just fine. Personally it's hard to tell the difference in PQ. Those who say DLP-Link is brighter probably have something in their system that make them seem brighter. Who knows.

3dtvCorp is selling new DLP Link glasses that are rechargeable and have a switch to invert the sync.

I've a thread on them - apparently noone has got and compared them yet.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1363408

sync loss on Optoma-DLP-link is overblown (and unfair in some sense)...the other day I spent time to test where exactly i would lose lock as i turn away from screen...even at 180degree from screen, I did not lose lock and i was quite surprised...the reason being, these glasses are so sensitive that they pick up tiny reflection of the screen on an object in the room and sync to that.

Then I tried another experiment, I blocked the sensor on the nose piece and noticed that it takes several seconds before it loses sync...so it looks like Optoma has optimized these fine glasses in both sensitivity and time it takes to lose lock that I dare say that you almost never lose lock when you are in the room.

As I mentioned before, I prefer the glasses to stop shuttering when I visit another room as they become brighter and I dont need to remove the glasses, if the other room is darker.

These are Optoma's ZD101s ?

BTW, would you also say the RF glasses were more comfy ?

perhaps...I had a bad experience with the one pair of RF glasses I ordered...they had varying lens thickness....if not for this, I would have stuck to RF as well (well perhaps the price also is a concern)...on the contrary, I tried 5 different pairs of Optoma ZD101's and every one of them showed exact same consistent performance.

But, aren't ZD101s quite pricey & also some reports of the frame cracking ?

evnow -- Not to beat a dead horse, but back to the f-Stop discussion and some clarification (your post #1574). All lenses have a maximum f-Stop. As xenon2000 explained it (his post #1569), it is determined by the lens entrance pupil and the focal length (see his "Definition"). This is basic Optics 101 (f-Stop = focal length / entrance pupil).

As you zoom that lens, the focal length changes (more zoom = more focal length). Therefore, the f-Stop also changes. As you zoom away, you are reducing the maximum f-Stop of the lens. Hence, as you zoom out (to fill a fixed sized screen from further away), you are reducing the maximum f-Stop of the lens. Therefore, you will get lower screen brightness (= less illumination of the screen).

The same is true for a camera with a zoom lens. A good camera zoom lens can have a f-Stop of f-2.8 at it's wide angle position and drop all the way down to f-5.6 or even f-8.0 as you zoom out, depending on the zoom ratio and quality of the lens.

For a PJ like the HD33 or the HD3300, which has a limited zoom range, the measured brightness will change by 12% to 20%, depending on the quality of the lens. For a long zoom ratio (2:1 like on the Epsons or Panasonics, LCDs), their output can change by a whopping 35% to 47%. This effect has been measured by many different reviewers on all brands of PJs.

Why ? Is less light getting into the lense system - or is it because more of it will get dispersed from the screen away from the viewer. I'm just trying to figure this out purely from Physics 101.

Let me know how it is compared to the Optoma DLP

THanks

Ive got 4 pairs here, and after reading your post I looked through each of them and I cant detect what you were seeing. I was worried at first that maybe I made the wrong choice in buying the RF glasses but all is well here so far. I wonder if that was a bad pair you had or maybe I am missing something.

matt cna i borrow some of yours maybe all of them if thy work well i'll tell you then you can try the DLP version to see if it's better

I'm trying to get an ultimate3dheaven Ultra-Clear DLP LINK Wireless 3D Glasses to work. I know I'm getting 3D video, the HD33 is set to DLP-link and the 3D format to SBS, and all I get are 2 eyes that don't see the same horrible image. I changed the battery in the glasses, nothing. I did notice when I push the small white button on the left side of the glasses the small LED does not light up. Any thoughts?

looks like i got a lemon

These ones probably arent bright enough for you...Besides they already have some boogers on them.

They look kinda like this though... ---->

That doesn't make sense. Which post are you referring to? Are you referring to the DLP-Link 3D glasses?

dogwilli -- It sounds like either you have defective glasses or the battery is in backwards. You may have to turn on the glasses before you start the movie (check the instructions for the glasses).

Less light is getting through the lens (think of it as having to go through a longer tunnel).

I'm trying to remember, but I think there was a piece of clear plastic inserted on side of the battery to keep it from turning on and that needs to be pulled out. Then you have to push a button inside left (I think) to activate the glasses and then they will sync to the red flash.

thanks CT - they are probably cheap glasses. we down loaded the Terra Nova preview via PS3 (thru a Yamaha V867 using HDMI 1.4) to make sure it wasn't the content and we found we needed to hold the little white button awhile (seconds) until the screen became 3D. It seems the glasses need a little care to make them work. A quote from the crowd "really cool" " I'm glad you got it"

Guitarman,
My FW is C01, does it need to be upgraded?

Sorry forgot the quote. Im referring to Falafal trying out the DLP link he ordered

Nevermind I see that the HD3300 is C02 and the 33 is C01.

OK, so I'm going to have to retract this statement. I figured out the issue. Turns out it was me. I must have accidentally changed the delay setting on the RF transmitter for the glasses. After reading the calibration procedure in this manual, I was able to set the delay setting back to where it was supposed to be and *poof*... all the ghosting was gone.

So, if you are getting ghosting problems with the RF glasses, I highly suggest using the calibration function.

When you guys take your glasses off when watching a 3D TV channel, is the picture blurry?

I watched a 3D movie tonight with my 3300 and Ultimate 3D heaven DLP Link glasses and they worked great.

which movie?

As a secondary PJ for HDTV and 3d gaming, would you guys recommend an optoma HD3300 or a 64" Plasma? There is a decent amount of ambient light to fight against.

I would love to play Kinect/etc. on a projector with some light...

In what sense? Watching 3D without glasses would be seeing a double image, and if those two images--one for left eye and one for right--are close together it will be very blurry.

Let me put it another way. They are not adding anything on purpose to block light. It's a cost variable. It is cheaper to make optics with an opening only as big as absolutely needed. If they design it large enough, there is only glass and coatings to reduce brightness. But then the glass is large and cost more. So they compromise and save a lot on glass and only loose some light to smaller glass/opening.

Even Prosumer camera lenses well over $500 will have a variable open aperature fstop. Example, a lens can be 18 to 200mm in zoom range, and the fstop max open can range from f3.5 at wide and f6.3 at tele. It's not because the adjustable aperture has adjusted. It's because of all the moving glass and where the different barrels line up, distance to the edge, etc.

This is all inside a projector as well. If there is any zoom, then if they didn't design it for a constant fstop, then it's cheaper to not worry about it changing a small amount. I didn't do the math, but I would imagine a 20% change in light is like a 0.1 or 0.2 difference in fstop. So not much to design around to get rid of that.

Not sure how else to describe it. In the end it doesn't really matter as the fact is that most projectors do have a measurable change in raw light output from change in zoom only.

At the same time. I still stand by the fact that the difference is small enough that it should not be a factor for anyone with a light controlled room. Even my HD70 with 1000 lumen bulb and set to low, was still plenty bright at 100" in a light controlled room.

Is the light coming from behind the screen or off to the side? Also, can it be limited by a curtain? If you can get a Dalite High Power screen, which focuses the light back to the projector, and if the projector is low enough if ceiling mounted, will do a decent job of projecting back to the audience (about 1.4 to 1.8 gain). You should be set with the HD3300 as long as no light comes from directly behind the screen.

I actually have watched my HD3300 on my 142" 1.3 gain screen with basement light on and it was fine for 2D (but not for 3D--you'll need a darker environment).