New Optoma HD33 HD3300 1080p 3D Projector Review - Page 82

Didn't quite understand where you got these numbers? Could you please elaborate? I tweaked my RF's but just did it by eye. Thanks.

Use this software:

monstercable.com/max3d


You just connect to your PC with the USB lead, makes changing setting much easier.

Let me know what you think.

The 3D on the Avatar Blu-Ray is very intense. I didn't have too much eyestrain but I did notice that Avatar has very "deep" 3D. Some movies are worse than others. Most of the time I don't have an issue.

Some Blu-Ray 3D players have a setting where you can adjust the 3D. My Panasonic player has it but I never use the setting myself.

By the way guys, check out the very beginning of Toy Story 2 in 3D. Wow! Definitely demo material.

I'm thinking of getting the Sony HDR-TD10 3D twin lens camcorder.

http://store.sony.com/webapp/wcs/sto...Number=HDRTD10

Does anyone have experience with this or any other 3D camcorder and projection. I have a Fuji W3 and play the still files through my PC and they are great, but the video is very poor.

On a 90" screen you might be experiencing too much contrast between light and dark areas making your eye iris go crazy--like someone waving a flashlight in front of your eyes. Since the Green Lantern is darker, maybe that's the difference. Try a different gamma for 3D and try reducing contrast. 5 meters back should be fine. I have a 142" screen and sit at 15 feet for Avatar and it works well for me. Also, you might have had the shutterglasses reverse synced (left eye/right eye switched) which causes a weird 3D effect--but some people don't realize it if they are new to 3D.

I have tried a neutral density filter works well used a 67mm fits perfect but dont buy plastic as will melt get glass one, im looking for one myself. Been seeing rainbows alot on 2d does anyone know if they will stop once lamp beds in a bit?

Well, unfortunately I have a problem with the projector. I am very happy with the projector otherwise and things happen. I contacted AVS as I bought it from them and they said they will send a new projector.

The problem is that the top right corner of the picture is not straight with the bottom right corner. I had a professional installer come to the house and he agrees something is wrong with the projector. The screen was measured many times and is perfectly shaped. It is not keystoning as the top, bottom and left sides are perfect. There is only a problem with the right side (specifically the top right corner). You can see it with different sources (XBOX 360, PS3 and the Optoma test grid on the projector itself). Pictures are attached...

Any ideas what happened?

I know you said you measured the screen several times. The test grid makes the screen look like it is not square. I would measure the test grid to confirm the unit is faulty and not the screen because the grid is like an optical illusion in that picture making the screen look out of square.
Edit: Looking closer at the pictures it appears that the image is square to the item you have next to the screen and the screen frame appears to not be, when compared to that item next to it. Just what I can see.

I thought it was the screen at first also but the screen is perfect (measured several times by the pro installer to verify). He said he had not seen anything like it.

I think the xbox photos show it the best... The screen is straight up/down.

I would throw that test grid back up and measure the grid before I returned the unit just to be sure. It would suck to get another one just like that if indeed there is nothing wrong with the old one. Surely you measured the image to confirm it was off as that is the only way to be sure. I am just going off what the pictures look like. I don't know if it would help but perhaps a reset might help. Good luck.

Can you stick a level next to your screen frame to see if it is square? This would take a second (or maybe you already have). It could be the pictures but your frame looks off to me, not the projector image.

I have yet to find a wall that doesn't have a bow or wave in it at some point. Is it possible that top right corner is pulled tight to the wall and that area of the wall is bowed inward?

Will definitely check everything again today..

My HD33 finally came in yesterday. I need some help with projector placement. I want to throw a 110" image. I can mount at 14' or 12' 8". Which will give me the brightest image? Which will give me the best picture?

Thanks

Well that monster utility did the trick for me, got rid of all the ghosting and the popouts look extremely sharp now!

I was starting to worry about Pop on the HD33, it seemed movies had great depth but there was not much pop. I remember seing a demo at Bestbuy for the LG Real3D tv where there was a clip from Imax: Under the Sea. A shot with a rather large Cod fish, and on the demo at Best Buy it appeared as though the fish was coming right out of the tv. Well I finally got a copy of this movie for home and sure enough there was plenty of pop. There has always been good depth, and some pop out, Yogi Bear has a considerable amount of pop out. But this fish is the ultimate acid test... it looked like it was coming out at least 8 feet from the screen.... and I'm only sitting about 14 feet from the screen... so needless to say this made me very happy... Avatar had some good pop out... but this fish takes the cake. now I am just waiting on my rf glasses to see how I make out with them

I've only got about 15 hours on my HD33 so far but I'm thinking it doesn't have the blacks of the HD22 I had tried out previously. The specs of the HD22 say the contrast is 5000:1 whereas the HD33 is 4000:1 but I was hoping being 2 years newer technology, the difference would be minimal. However, on the material I have viewed thus far, it does seem quite noticeable. Could it be becuase it is brighter? The black letterbox bars on 2:35:1 movies look noticely brighter , more of a dark gray then they did on the HD22, and the brightness/contrast/gamma settings won't make them any less bright. Even with the lamp set at STD, they still seem brighter than the HD22 Since I got the HD33 through Best Buy I have 30 days to decide. I still like the 'pop' and vividness of the colors on the HD33 moreso than the HD22 but black level seems a bit to be desired. Any thoughts?

Marc.

http://www.wired.com/reviews/2011/11/optoma-hd33/

WIRED Half the price of most competing 3-D projectors. Superb picture quality, especially in 3-D. 3-D glasses fit comfortably, even over regular glasses.

TIRED No 3-D specs included in the box. A bit noisy, especially when switching display modes. Backlit remote is actually too bright to use in a dark room.

Dont know for sure, but since it is quite a bit brighter it could be more reflections from your room washing onto the screen and causing the black bars to look more greyish. I recently bought a dark purple 8X10 rug for the floor infront of the screen and it made a big difference. Now when I watch a 2.35 movie the bar on the bottom of the screen is darker than the top. Looks like I need to do something about the flat grey ceiling. But then again, Im not sure it bothers me enough to worry about it.

True of false: Every pair of 3D glasses that come with a VESA compatible emitter are compatible with the HD33?

I'm about to go back to Best Buy and get a pair of glasses with an emitter to try them out for the weekend, but I don't want to waste my time if it's not going to work.

I had the exact same experience, it seems these Imax films are more like the amusement park 3D movies where they emphasize on the pop out vs. Hollywood films which are more about depth. Games do well either. I'm playing the Witcher 2 and when you draw the sword and pan the camera around it's like it's sticking out of the screen.


Awesome! Even better than the opening in 3.

Speaking of games, I simply can't get enough of Assassin's Creed Brotherhood on the Optoma. If you ever wanted to walk around Rome during the renaissance, this is your chance.

Have you tried just turning the projector to the left to see if the left side matches the keystoning of the right side. I've seen this before when the projector lens is not dead on the screen center. One side will keystone and the other appears not to keystone.

So what settings did you end up with out of interest?

Also, what film did you calibrate on?

I got despicable me looking great, put on resident Evil and it looks terrible. The blacks flicker, no focus on pop,,,,just terrible.

Also tried Alice in wonderland and also bad black flickering.

STUCK!!!

When a lot of people talk about pop on dlp projectors, they are usually referring to the color/contrast "pop" the image has. What you are referring to are objects "popping" out of the stereo window, which is usually at the screen plane. Sometimes whole scenes partially pop out of the window and this is considered a no-no, but lot's of movies do it. The most effective is to have majority of objects behind the screen and only one or two pop out of the screen to create a much better illusion of "being in the room with you." If you note, the water in Under the Sea is also in the room with you lessening the illusion though.

Cameron stated that he purposely did not have objects jump out of the screen as he did not want Avatar to be thought as a 1950s 3D "B" movie with gimmicky effects. Tron has much less 3D and little pop.

Finally got my HD33 after first having one, returning it, trying the Epson 3010, returning that, and ordering a final 33! I have to say, I made the right choice...picture is stunning and I sat there for four hours smiling. Thanks to everyone for all the info.

I noticed mine is firmware CO2 and the first one I had was CO1. Any ideas what they could have tweaked?

I managed to increase the percieved black level tonight. Or is that decrease? Anyway, the blacks look blacker by using Cinema, and graphic gamma. So much so that I'm able to increase brightness to +7. The image looks substantially better now. I watched Revenge of the Sith on Bluray and became far more immersed in the movie than my theatrical viewing years ago. I guess in the end, this is the true test of any display system.

Marc.

ekscden,

could you please elaborate on why you chose the HD33 over the Epson 3010? I'm curious of your opinion since you've seen both.

Thanks!

10636
113

I calibrated on a game (witcher 2), since it's easier to test depth and such without having to go backwards through a movie, if I want a pop out, I just stand near something etc.

I changed it a couple of times, the first time I had no more ghosting in The Witcher, but when I put on Toy Story 2 and the pixar logo in the beginning was full of double blue ghosting. The latest setting seems to cover both movies and games, though I suspect resolution is a factor as well.

Games run in 720p-60hz mostly, whilst movies are 1080p 24hz. This difference in resolution changes the ammount of ghosting. I still have to test my PS3 now, because I expect it may yet be different on that platform.

I'm really happy with the optoma, but all this clowning around with the RF glasses is starting to annoy me, with no presets and the cumbersome activity of hooking up your laptop each time to calibrate is a no-go. As I understand the older IR glasses did not have these issues.