New Optoma HD33 HD3300 1080p 3D Projector Review - Page 87

got my hd33...yay

I paid no where near $500 more for 3300. I'm beginning to feel someone is here to start trouble.

You cannot see differences of internals by eye and it would take a lot more than some electronics knowledge to know how to measure this stuff (not to mention some really expensive measuring equipment), as some of MFR tolerances are so low you'd need to be in a MFR's lab to even begin to tell, and you'd need to be an expert in not just projector electronics, but you'd also need expertise in this specific machine, as well as in lens assemblies and have completely broken the projector into pieces in order to see all the internals.

Trying to find out the differences by taking the machines apart is much more difficult then just setting up two and measuring them with calibration equipment. If you really had both machines on you, you should have just calibrated them in various ways and taken all kinds of measurements to see if there were any differences, not taken them apart.

The only evidence we have so far suggests there are differences, guitarman measured a significantly higher lumens for the hd3300, plus you get the warranty.

I do not know if there are other improvements, but my honest guess it that they would be hard to see by eye, but still the extra brightness and warranty are very important for some. I will give Optoma the benefit of the doubt. Most likely the way this works is each part of the machine after assembly gets measured for error tolerances, and they will assemble the 3300's with the parts that came out MFR'd with the best tolerances. On DLP this does make less difference than LCD, but it can still make some difference I'm sure.

As far as Epson vs. Optoma, I will buy that some people like one or the other better, but DLP does not ghost and does not have convergence issues, and the Optoma has better native contrast, so for me I would choose the Optoma sight unseen.

My assumption is that these settings can be saved...... i dont have a screen yet and plan on doing a DIY....so wall for now.... but this weekend will be about MW3...maybe some football inbetween.....i got this over the 3010 for the lag issue...and hence time to do what i like most....play games... hawaii taco ....long story....and no i actually am a raiders fan...even though theyve sucked for ages....

Sent my unit back to local distributor. They told me it is a non repairable manufacturing defect and agree to replace a new unit for me. Just to share in case anyone else have the same problem.

anyone managed to request latest firmware c03 from optoma?

I've just seen a post from someone (paul77) on the AVForums that has had both units in his home. He was able to discern a difference in brightness between the units.

http://www.avforums.com/forums/proje...thread-14.html
(very bottom of the page)
(US)HD33(white) = (UK)HD300X(black)
(US)HD3300(black) = (UK)HD33(white)

It looks like the lumens differential published by Optoma could be correct (according to one user), and the reasons could well be those stated by guitarman. Although, when you change bulbs any advantage there would be lost.

Most manufacturer's seem keen to send 'golden' units for review, wonder why Optoma didn't push the 3300 if it has a slight advantage.

PS As the above poster asked, anyone installed C03 that was having problems?

All units that come off of any electronic assembly line must perform between limits and no two are ever exactly the same. They just need to perform somewhere under the same bell-shaped curve. But some components can be tested to meet the high end of the curve and be selected to carry the black case. So I'm guessing you could have 4 projectors (e.g. 2 HD33s and 2 HD3300s) and they all four look a little different (some brighter, some better color, etc.) even with the same settings. But I'm guessing the HD3300s would show slightly better than the HD33s regardless. It's hard to argue about something that we'll probably never prove. At this point, I'm happy to get the better warranty and for only a couple hundred more...

Optomas are mass produced and nobody is testing them for higher tolerance. Guitarman just knows what he is doing and as with everything else in life experience yields better results. Give him a HD33 and it will probably look alot better than most peoples HD33 cause he has passion and alot of experience.

I would say buy the HD3300 as the warranty cost from Optoma would make a HD33 the same price as a HD3300 and you get better firmware.

I got my 3300 last week from AVS. This is my first pj but I have seen several at various friends places. To say I'm pleased is an understatement. OOB the first night I threw it to a white wall somewhere around a 6'x10' image... Simply stunning.

Set it up in my mancave on a tabletop and threw it onto a white 112" diag sheet. I think if I do get an HP screen it'll be TOO bright. Image pops. 3D on Wipeout Fury HD was so good it started to give me a headache. Amazing.

Thanks for the settings guitarman!

One question: (Of course this had to be caught by my wife that was already mad at me for buying three pairs of RF glasses)... Anyone notice an interference noise coming from your glasses? Sounds like electronic buzz. Very soft, by your left ear? Optoma RF glasses.

Actually some of the processes in manufacturing used would have automatic tolerance indicators and tolerance reports that come standard. Some of this stuff is monitored by the QC guys simply for cost optimization, because this stuff directly affects the cost of production overall.

I don't know where you are getting your information from.

Furthermore, it would be somewhat unlikely for a company to make up that they are using different parts at different tolerances, because they know in doing so they expose themselves to liability and can cause major damage to their reputation across all their product lines.

yes, both pairs of my Optoma RF's buzz slightly in the upper left. i doubt most people could hear it.

I remember someone else mentioning this on another thread, but I've never noticed it. My sound system is usually blaring, though. I'll check mine out and see for sure.

Erm... good 3D shouldn't give you a headache.

has anyone with a ps3 changed their screen size setting to felp fix in-game ghosting? my screen is 120" and didn't know if reducing that number in the ps3 3d screen size setting might help? i definitely see ghosting in the motorstorm demos.

What kind of glasses are you using? If you have RF glasses, you may need to tweak them. I'm using DLP link and never had a problem with ghosting on ps3 games. I think if you say your screen is smaller than it actually is, it will increase the 3D effect and perhaps increase the amount of ghosting. Try it and get back to us...I'd also like to know.

If you are using RF glasses, the fix is DLP-Link. At least it was for me. You can not tune the RF glasses to not ghost over the entire space of the lenses. I have tried many times. The RF's are comfortable and great for watching movies but the high brightness and contrasty displays that most games display will show the RF imperfections more clearly, especially around the edges and mostly the bottom of the lenses. This is the area that I could not tune out. In some games you really have to look for it but it is there, and more clearly in other games such as Gran Turismo 5. I have done tuning and extensive back and forth testing between the two types of glasses and have concluded the DLP-Link are better in this regard.

You should see no ghosting at all using DLP-Link, if you are then you have a different problem.

Can folks recommend a good mount for this pj? I will be mounting at a throw distance of approximately 12' shooting to a 100 inch screen. I have 9-foot ceilings so it's likely a downrod of some sort may be needed. A lot of the mounts I've seen don't allow for those.

Thanks in advance.

i actually had the ultimate 3d heaven dlp links for a week but returned them to amazon. now i wish i hadn't. while they were much more comfortable to wear and blocked out reflections, i swore i saw more 3d depth and contrast with the RF's. ever since i dent the dlp links back, though, i've had nothing but problems with my RF's- ghosting on the edge of frame in movies with a lot of popout effects (my bloody valentine, pirates4), buzzing becoming more noticeable in the upper left of the frame of the glasses, LOTS of reflections due to the design of the optoma rfs).

any current consensus on the "best" dlp links out there right now??? one thing i didn't like about the ultimate heaven 3d glasses was the noticeable tint different from lens to lens that I found distracting.

Well, I ordered the True Depth 3D DLP-Link Rechargeables based on their excellent reviews. I ordered two pair and they both work great. It appears Amazon no longer has them available, I have no idea what is going on with that.

I have heard the only ones that are comparable or maybe even better are the new Optoma ZD201's that are available overseas. You can have them shipped over here from Ebay and someone said Amazon U.K but I havent looked there yet.

Sorry, let off the part where I sat way too close to the screen. I took some photo shots where it seemed like the ship was close enough to touch

I've no idea how these Jet Black DLP-LINK 3D Glasses are, they look like the HiShocks.
http://www.amazon.com/Jet-Black-DLP-...0544600&sr=1-2
http://www.hishock.com/product.asp?id=795&cid=258&pid=

Bit Cauldron made some DLP Link Glasses that were getting great reviews but mysteriously disappeared, the BC3000. <-------Makers of the Optoma RF Glasses/Monster Vision rebadged glasses.

If you buy rechargeable glasses, you may want to look at this thread. It shows the type of battery and kind of how to replace it, if the need arises.
http://3dvision-blog.com/3d-vision-g...harging-issue/

those are the same as the VIP-3D dlp-link glasses I just bought from Consignia.ca'. The seem to work fine. I compared them to my other no-name rechargeable dlp-link glasses and they perform just as well. No sync issues, and fire up and sync pretty quickly
and pretty comfortable...

Mine came with the same green cleaning cloth, and grey pouch for the glasses

fwiw, the only 3d that has given me a headache has been PS3 gaming 3d... oddly enough, COTD: Black Ops on the 360 didn't and i found it very enveloping without the ghosting/strain i have experienced with the PS3.

BTW a lil care should be taken when cleaning the 3D glasses, here's a statement by Samsung that pretty well covers it.

The proper way to clean the 3D glasses is one lens at-a-time. It is not advisable to clean them in the same way that you would clean regular glasses (one finger on each lens), as it could damage the glasses. Do not clean both sides (front and back) at the same time as this will damage the glasses.

3D glasses actually have 2 screens in each lens, and putting pressure on both sides at the same time will squeeze the 2 lenses together, causing them to come in contact with each other and distort 3D viewing. When cleaning, use a clean, microfiber cloth and clean one side first, then then other. Do not clean both sides of the lens together.

Do not use any chemicals containing alcohol, solvents, or surfactant. Do not use any chemicals such as wax, benzene, thinner, mosquito repellant, lubricant, or cleaners. These may result in discoloration or cracks on the glasses surface and cause or cause the indication labels to peel off. Do not spray any cleaning liquid directly onto the glasses.

Any damage caused from mis-handling the 3D Glasses is considered physical damage, and it is not covered by the factory warranty.


http://ars.samsung.com/customer/usa/...5&AT_ID=234731

Ive had the HD33 for a couple months now and am still in awe of how great it performs for such a low price. And just today I found an Internet source that is offering it for hundreds less than the 1,499.00 price. What a steal. I use an 8 by 14 ft. screen and even at that size the picture quality is stunning. I was also pleasantly surprised that I had to do little calibration right out of the box. Have not tried using anything except the IR glasses system. 3D is great too. Can anyone explain why 3D looks even more "fine grain" than 2D? The picture looks "like glass" on the screen. I have a Panasonic 210 blu ray hooked up to it and I like how it produces simulated 3D (not at all bad) and has a setting to convert standard ratio to widescreen with little loss of picture quality. I thought my 720p 3D Optoma was good until I saw this model, which blows it away. Highly recommended!

Be very, very careful of that internet source (to anyone who's looking to purchase the HD33). If it sounds too good to be true, it is! I just googled and the sellers that have the 'too cheap' prices are all 'new' company's, with no ratings. I would warn anyone to beware.