New Optoma HD33 HD3300 1080p 3D Projector Review - Page 93

I recall Amazon was selling specific HDMI splitters for the purpose of using a single HDMI out with a 1.3 or lower AVR and a 3D display.

The fewer times this forum thread is updated, the more satisfied HD33/HD3300 users there are out there watching movies... it's a good thing.... we almost made the second page, then I had to go and ruin that....

by the way despicable me was awesome, great 3d effects during the credits just like in the movie theatre when the minions are competing to get as far into your room as possible.... It's a charming movie, but I think i half bought it for that part alone.... the ladder comes right out into your room

could someone please tell me how to reverse the polarity on the optoma rf glasses? I managed to do it once, but it was pretty much luck. I reversed them because I have one movie that is backwards that i'm going to watch tonight, but have no clue how to unreverse them. I read the directions, but doing what they say, i keep adjusting the parameters that go side to side and up and down. from what the directions seem to say, I just press the button down and the polarity is supposed to change. I also did factory reset, but polarity is still reversed so not sure how that works exactly. I know the polarity definately reversed as I watched two movies today and now when I watch them, I have to flip the glasses over. Probably what I should have done to watch this one movie, would have been easier than getting involved with what I thought was a simple thing.

any help appreciated. oh, btw, I have teh GT750 projector, but I know there are a lot more people with experience with the RF glasses than on that thread. Hope you don't mind me asking.

Well it seems a bit slow for this one. I do not have RF glasses but don't you just go into the display menu and reverse the image? If not, can you just take out the battery and reset them that way? I don't know, my DLP link units don't have this problem I guess.

Is HD 33 Rf emitter compatible with Samsung 3100 BLUETOOTH glasses? The Samsung 3100 use RF Bluetooth. It is confusing whether HD33 RF emitter is RF Bluetooth or not

Please help

i had to reverse the polarity for My Bloody Valentine using the frame invert in the 3d optoma menu settings - and have had to do that every single time i've tested the disc.

So I watched Captain America 3D last night and I thought it was pretty good in 3D. I finally set up my 2.35 setup. I have a 143" scope screen with a Home Theater Bros. anamorphic lens (very reasonably priced) with a correction element. The 3D was nice and bright, and the dimensionality was fantastic. The only minor quip I have is that my player only lets me set my screen size to a max 116". When watching really fast moving scenes it can be a little nauseating - like my eyes can't focus on what's going on because it's moving too fast. I'm not sure if that's because of the size discrepancy as explained or if this is normal. Has anyone else noticed this?

I have seen what I believe you are describing. I see it on all of the 4 or 5 varying 3d systems I have viewed or owned including my hd33. I describe it as just a breakup in the picture and/or 3d effect on anything that moves quickly, something not noticeable in a 2d presentation. Everything just gets overly blurry and undefined. I've been meaning to try and capture it on a video and analyze it frame by frame. It doesn't seem to be there unless the source is played back full speed. Might have to just chalk it up as being another 3d artifact one has to live with. May be related to the limitations of active shutter glasses. An extreme example I saw was towards the beginning of Rio where a car is driving by palm trees in the background. The entire middle of the palm tree, the middle trunk area would disappear.

didn't even know there was a setting, I screwed around with the transmitter and finally watched the thing with the glasses on backwards, lucky its only 1 hour and 30 movie, this will make it much easier next time

I believe its because for such fast paced scenes, the L and R no longer composed for optimum 3D so it ends up being a jarring experience. Note this is not same as crosstalk...even with a perfect 3D system the source material itself has motion across L and R so the eyes dont converge onto an object well.

I was seriously considering getting a hmz-t1, can anyone advise me on weather or not I should get this instead?

Would a higher refresh rate on glasses help?

But yeah, I didn't notice any crosstalk whatsoever. In fact, I can't believe how incredibly clear the image is. The 3D this pj throws is hands down waay better than the theaters.

Its not the glasses, its the source material

I think the general consensus around here is that the source material is actually the last thing to blame crosstalk on.

jummyj2 we are not talking about crosstalk here...here the issue is L and R frames have different image in fast action....will try to show this in a photo sometime

i was too, but ended up going with projector instead GT750 as I didn't have the throw room for this one and too much light in my room.

I went with this over hmz-t1 for several reasons. I watch many movies and that thing on my head probably wouldn't be that comfortable for long. my kid and dog(especially the dog) like to sit with me, and you lose all interaction once that thing is on your head.

other people can watch the projector too, etc. the hmz-t1 is 800 bucks, I got my projector and electric 135 inch screen for under 1000 with 1 pair of rf glasses. granted I found a good deal, but still, the average person might pay 1100 or so. still a better deal i think for a device that has many more uses.

I do wish this would project a little bigger from 12', but I guess you can't have everything. I am stuck choosing between this and not having a screen for a while or having to make one or the HD20 with no 3d or the HD66 with 720p and 3D.

I'm thinking of upgrading my Acer H5360 with the HD33, mainly for the better 2D 1080p viewing.

I do a little 3d gaming & movies thru my nvidia htpc setup. However I haven't been able to find much info on the nvidia 3dvision capabilities, specifically if I can still use my nvidia 3d glasses. Does anyone know if this is possible? I have 5 x nvidia 3d glasses and would prefer to keep them and not buy new ones.

i am assuming you are using a samsung 3d bd player? i have the 6700 and also can't set the screen size higher than 116". i have a 120" screen so figured it would be close enough but if you tried a smaller setting and found better results, let me know!!

why not get the gt750? that does 720p, does 3d and will throw a huge picture from 12 feet. I can tell you I love mine.

Yep. I have the 6700 as well and I think it's great. I think, though, that if you set the screen size smaller when your screen is actually larger, it increases the sense of depth at the expense of greater potential eye strain.

Do not know if this has been posted before, but here is a pretty glowing review for the HD33.

http://www.gamingnexus.com/Article/O.../Item3293.aspx

How big? I want to use this in my bedroom with the projector at the back of the room. My ceiling is about 8' tall and the wall I want to project onto is probably a good 10'. Will this produce too big of an image requiring me to ceiling mount? Should I go with something that has less throw and invest the rest in a nicer screen(lets say 92 maybe 100")? Or should I go with this? I noticed that the contrast on the GT750 is 3000:1. Will the jump to 4000:1 be worth it? To be honest I don't notice the difference between 720p and 1080p for movies and I mostly watch them from HBO on demand which does 720p as far as I'm concerned. This seems like a better choice for me, thanks a lot! PM so we don't turn this into a GT750 thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post21236176

here is the gt750 thread

I have 5 pairs of active glasses from my LG plasma. Would these glasses work with the hd33? Would I just need to buy an emitter? If not are the dlp link glasses the way to go? And are there any that are better than others?

Optoma HD33 ceiling mount placement help needed!

Hi Guys, I need some EXPERT help/advice. I ALREADY purchased a 113" BlackDiamond II screen for my home theater setup in the basement. I have a Optoma HD33 projector on the way and have 15 days to make this setup work before admitting defeat and returning the unit back!

Here is my dilemma!

I have enough space DISTANCE wise, but not so sure about HEIGHT. I HAVE to stay within a specific range to accommodate my setup. The SCREEN fits!... BARELY... but fits with enough space for my front speakers / subwoofer to not block any part of the viewable screen surface. My ceilings down there are also LOW. 7' 1" (85 in) to be exact. I require the projected image to BEGIN at just 3.5"- 5.5" from the ceiling to avoid projecting on my speakers. Thats not much room to play with. Does anyone here know if this feat would be possible? My projector would be back far enough accommodate the 113" diagonal viewing surface (roughly 12.5ft), but would the throw angle skew my image??? Thats the million dollar question here folks.

What type of ceiling mount would you all recommend?

Here are the specs from ProjectorCentral's calculator for the HD33.

Vertical Distance from center of lens to top of projected image = 8.8"

TOP to BOTTOM Image size = 55"
Diagonal Image size = 113"
LEFT to RIGHT Image size = 98"
Throw Distance can be anywhere from = 12'3" - 14'9" to achieve a 113" viewable image.

Hope all that information helps whoever is smart enough to figure all this out. Your help or advice will be GREATLY appreciated!

@twinhead 1:

I too have 7" ceilings and about a 112" image. My projector is 14' away and my screen is 28" from the floor. It should work for your setup, depending on how tall your speakers are. The thing to remember is that the projector does have digital lens shift which will give you ~5 inches of wiggle room. Alternately, you can tilt your projector up just a bit and you won't even notice it if you have the tiniest amount edging into your border (way better than keystoning). I have the following mount and it works great as it's pretty flush and its on a pivot so you can tweak it after the projector is mounted:

http://www.amazon.com/OmniMount-3N1-...862412&sr=8-20


Honestly, you won't get a better dlp projector than this for anywhere near this kind of money. If you don't think it would work, consider waiting to get the BenQ W7000, which does have lens shift. However, they have horrible customer service, and you'd be looking at spending at least 1k more for essentially the same pj but with lens shift. Hope that helps.

Yeah, I have some disorienting issues even in the theater with 3D. I am pretty confident that this is due to the 24fps standard that we have been so used to in 2D. I often lose focus right in the middle of either close-up action or a panning shot. It takes a second or two to regain focus of whatever I'm looking at. I LOVE 3D, but I hate this artifact.

On that note, has anyone tried to overcome this with the PureMotion setting on the HD33 in 3D? I mean, I would never use it for a 2D movie because I hate the way it looks in 2D, but I wonder if it would help with 3D movies. I've been hoping a projector would have this feature just so I would know if it would help this issue for me. The HD33 just seems to have everything I want.

Anyway, I really think that when The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey hits theaters next year in all its 48fps glory, it will alleviate this problem for many people and show the problem for what it is. If this is the case, we can expect a game-changer, possibly even beyond Avatar proportions.

I am ordering a HD3300 from AVS today. What glasses are you guys using? I hear good things about the Tru Depth glasses but have heard of people haveing trouble getting them to work with this projector.

Rick