New Optoma HD33 HD3300 1080p 3D Projector Review - Page 101

i don't think so - i have to invert the 3d sync with almost all of my discs, and that setting doesn't seem to "save".

What is 3D invert? I never change with mine? I never understood why some of my glasses have an invert selection.

Are you using "official" discs? The only things I've had to invert are SBS files (youtube mostly) that were meant for "cross-eye" viewing. Meaning left was on right and vice-versa. None of the retail BDs I have had required inverted 3D.

yep, i am using official discs. ever since i used the rf emitter's calibration tweaks, everything is inverted and I have to use the 3d invert option for things to look right. I've tried to go back into the rf emitter settings but it's very finicky and doesn't want to cooperate.

Yeah, I was going to say it sounds like you need to affect the inversion (uninversion?) at the emitter since it sounds like that's the part that's actually backwards.

so i was trying out another pair of ultimate 3d heaven dlp link glasses tonight - and was surprised that both of my optoma rf glasses worked just fine (simultaneously) while the projector was in DLP-Link mode, and the frame invert i usually have to toggle for RF was not needed. How is this possible?

When switching between the RF and DLP Links I noticed VERY little difference in PQ, if any. The only difference is the amount of light reflections allowed inside the viewing area because of the different designs, and the back-and-forth comparison makes me think it's not as big of a deal as i was thinking with the rf's if i just tune it out mentally.

UPDATE : I think color accuracy is a little better with the optoma rf's.

Finally got my hd33 all hooked up over the weekend. What a pain since I had to mount it only 2.5" from the ceiling. Had to be bang on since I made my own mount so there were no adjustments I could make if my measurements were off. Well worth the effort. New cable is only doing 720P however, going to need another, it is suppose to be a 1.4 cable...

Or is this an issue with the projector? Doubt it but just asking. My Panny bluray will not sync at 1080P, my WDTV Live will however, albeit with some noise and tearing. makes me conclude it's the cable. LCD upstairs works great and I'm using a longer version of the same cable.

it sounds like you inverted it at the emitter, you'll have to fix it at the emitter, good luck with that, you'll mess up all the other settings trying to fix it as the way to invert at least on my emitter usually doesn't do it correctly and you end up moving the other settings while you try for 20 minutes to hit it just right to fix the inversion.

yep i found the same issue which is why i was just using the projector's frame inversion. but as i posted above, while i was testing out a pair of DLP Link glasses, i noticed my RF's were still working normally which was surprising, and the frame inversion was no longer an issue.

This answers the question I asked a few days ago about using dlplink AND the VESA 3d port. I assume it should work with IR just the same. Good to hear as you can provide a mix of glasses/quality/interface type for your audience. Interesting that the dlp flash (I think red for the HD33?) doesn't seem to affect viewing through the RF glasses. Wonder if a white dlp flash would be more noticeable?

yeah, it's weird. with the glasses off in DLP Link mode, the red flash is definitely there, but the RF Optoma glasses actually seem to correct for it better than the DLP Link glasses do!!

Very strange

My first impression.
Yesterday it was delivered to best buy for pick up.
Only word I could say, Wow!!!
Sharpness and Colors so rich, I wasn't impressed by Epson 3100 lately, but I
really impressed by HD33, DLP forever, I will try Epson one more time since they have 3d- play support. But I don't think there anything could be better then 3d on optima 33, If it's low tech projector, how 3d could be better on Hi-end PJ, for
it's the best for 3d could get

I am contemplating an upgrade/replacement for my aging (ancient?) 2005 BenQ PE8700+. I gave it a new lease on life 2 years ago with a new bulb (only about 300 hrs on it now) but am now considering replacing it and have been reading about the HD33 here . I use it in a totally light controlled basement room, projecting to a 106" Elite tensioned white screen.

What improvements can I expect to see in the 2D mode with this $1,500 PJ vs. what I have now with my 6 year old, $4,000 at the time, machine (which still looks quite good frankly). Enough (besides the 3D access) that I will immediately see a difference? What in particular?

Given what I'm used to should I consider something else to get a significant bump over current performance?

I was waiting for this one. Thx a bunch for posting you findings. Some members have been wishing for the DLP glasses as the RFs require constant tweaking to counter ghosting, though it's mostly a problem in games and less in films. I'll probably get an additional DLP set next to my 2 RFs.

I might be crazy but i swear the Optoma RF glasses look better when the projector is in DLP-Link mode - could this have something to do with the DLP Link glasses being sync'd to the PJ and something happening to the RF emission signal? i just don't understand how it could be working like this.

I'm looking to maximize the purchase of my spare glasses by shopping for a kit that includes some 3D movies.

Does anyone know if the glasses included within any of these 3 kits will work with the HD33?

http://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Heave...dp/B004U77EJY/

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SSG-P2...dp/B0049P1N26/

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SSG-P3...dp/B004NIG1SA/

Thanks!

The RF glasses transmit the sync through a Dongle, seems it's turned on no matter if the PJ is in RF or DLP mode. Speculating here, but the selection may only effect if DLP is turned on or off. The DLP mode may introduce some filtering which makes it look better, who knows. I'll try it out myself over the weekend.

thanks, looking forward to the results. for me, when i put the Optoma in DLP mode, they definitely look better (colors are more accurate, contrast is better) than the DLP Link glasses i tried (utlimate 3d Heaven), although the 3d heaven glasses are so much more comfortable and block out more reflection/light.

the lenses on the ultimate 3d glasses have too much of a green tint, so what i'm seeing may be just a function of the actual lenses and everything else is probably just working the same.

Guys-

I am going to sell my 3300. I must be the most RBE sensitive guy on the planet, but after waiting two months to see if I would lose this sensitivity, I am going to have to sell my unit. It is performing flawlessly and is a bang to watch 3D on, but we watch a bunch of 2D (of course) and we play some Xbox on it and the RBE is killing me. I have tried all suggestions; even turned the contrast to -40 waited for the lamp to reach 100 hours and even tried an ND filter to no avail, No one else in the family sees it, but since it is mine, they all support getting rid of it. I am likely going back to 2D only until the tech improves on LCD or I may end up with the Panny 7000.

I am really sick about it as I believe the DLP picture has something about it that I really love, but when you can't follow the story line of the movie because of distraction from rainbows on the screen, that means you must move on if you are a film buff.

Anyone interested can PM me and we can work something out for the unit and 4 pairs of Optoma RF glasses (purchased through AVS in Oct). I will then list through AVS and sell it to the interested party.

Sorry about your experience was wondering how bad is the RBE in 3D mode for you?

Hi Guys, I have a big problem with my HD33. its like a judder sideways to the left a couple of inches every now and again. It looks like a frame lost sync. By-passed my amp got a high speed HDMI lead - its still the same.

Its only with SBS movies and I'm now pointing fingers at my old WDTV 1st edition media player as it maybe connected to 23.976 frame rate as WDTV has a problem with 24hz or could be the 1080p bitrate taking too much power to decode. The funny thing is some files play fine but it takes the pleasure out of it for me, I'm just sitting dreading it starting.

Can anyone recommend a Media player that playback 24hz and 23.976 SBS properly. I was looking at the Himedia 900 but that has a lot of problems and I like my movie sheets.

I'm interested to Know if anyone who has had this issue has managed to fix it or still having problems? I'm sure someone else mentioned it a while ago in this thread.

Thanks

Almost non-existent RBE in 3D all the way to the point that I thought it was the polarization of the glasses bringing the contrast down.

This is what caused me to try it out with an ND filter I had left over from my old PJ days. It did not help at all; I only ended up with darker rainbows.

I kept telling myself it would get better. I also kept hoping the bulb break-in would help. I even went so far to try to convince myself it didn't matter. When I watched a football game, it didn't. However, the next movie I watched would remind me that it did.

Hi all,

My first post, so take it for what it's worth. Picked up the HD33 about two weeks ago. Amazing unit. Soooo happy we went the projector route, and not a flat screen. Even a 70" just doesn't have that wow factor anymore. I even heard my wife tell a friend, and I quote, "It's awesome". How about that.

Painted a screen with Sherwin Williams ProClassic Smooth Enamel Satin Finish Extra White, tinted to 6260 Unique Gray. Cheap and easy to repair when someone throws a ball, or a remote at it. I was thinking I'd eventually upgrade to a more expensive paint, or a screen, but I really can't imagine the picture getting that much better.

We had a chance to try the ZD201, Ultimate Heaven and RF glasses. IMHO, we liked the RF glasses the best. Really didn't notice much of difference in picture quality, or crosstalk. We watched a 3D movie and the kids played Halo in 3D. The ZD201s were very comfortable, but the viewing area is smaller and prescription glasses did not fit well underneath them. As mentioned in other posts, the Ultimate's have a slight green tint, but also very comfortable. Viewing area is large and prescription glasses fit well. The RFs also have a very large viewing area and prescription glasses fit well. Didn't really notice much of a reflection on them (maybe because we all slouch down in the couch). They seem sturdy enough. Only complaint is the power button. We also liked the fact that they're always synced. The DLPs would lose sync when you looked away or someone turned on the lights. They're all good glasses, so this appears to be more of a personal preference. But, just thought I'd throw that out there, if that helps anyone who's trying to choose.

Had to return my first unit, as it started displaying vertical lines. Evidently, this is not specific to this model. Did a little searching and have heard this happing on other DLP projectors, although the problem sounds rare.

Anyway, extremely happy with this projector. Picture is amazing and 3D is quite a treat. Doesn't look like we'll be going to the theatre ever again.

yeah i notced the green tint in the ultimate3dheaven dlp link glasses too. when you switch back and forth from the optoma rf's, it's a pretty noticeable shift in tint. but they're so comfortable!!!!!!

2nd most perhaps. I couldn't stand the RBE for more than about 10 minutes at a time before I thought I'd faint.

Sorry for your loss.

I had (still have in a box) the PE8700 (not + version--it's really not much different). Anyway, don't confuse price of past technology with changes in technology. There is no comparison. You are NOT comparing a $1,500 projector to a $4,000k. You are comparing a $1,500 projector to a $250 projector at best. That said, it is much brighter--you can have some lights on. The PE8700 requires complete darkness. And it's sharper and better color and faster color wheel for less rainbows. Don't even consider it in the same category as a 720p projector.

I received the unit back after 3 weeks and I definitely notice a difference on the brightness on the screen. When I had C01 I would reduce the brightness down sometimes as far as it could go to make it bearable to watch. Now with the C93 upgrade it appears to be what I would expect. It's been 3 weeks but I remember the brightness being overwhelming on C01. I will post more when I watch some sports.

Good tip! Thanks.

Michael

I'm only up to p78 so sorry if someone else has already chimed in on this one but here's my take on it:

In real life, you can choose to focus on an object at any distance away. But when watching 3D with glasses, there is only 1 depth plane to choose from. Think of real life 3D as being an infinite number of 2D 'depth slices' which you can select at will. With pseudo-3D, there is only one slice.

This means that if you try to focus on a different depth, the image will probably not be horizontally (left eye vs right eye) convergent.

The same is true with 2D with respect to depth of field, where the camera lens is focused at a particular distance - the images at other distances will be out of focus.

For live recordings with two cameras a few inches apart, the cameras should really swivel horizontally, like your eyes do, to give a true representation of the object in focus, but I don't think they do, so even for the object being focused on (in the regular camera lens sense), the image won't look quite right, but is close enough that our brains can deal with it.

For computer generated imagery, it is possibly to do this perfectly for the object which is deemed to be what the observer is supposed to be focused on, because the rendering can point the two imaginary cameras directly at the object in question. This explains why cgi animations look sharp in '3D'. It is also possible, in theory, to create more than one focus point (both 2D depth of field and 3D eye convergence) using computer rendering, such that the observer sees more than one object in perfect focus, albeit at the expense of accuracy for intermediate objects in the scene.

The art of making a good 3D film is to lead the eye to the depth plane that is in both 2D (lens) focus and 3D convergent focus. Where there are scenes with, say, lots of snowflakes, you cannot have them all in focus at the same time from just two 2D images.

Hope that makes sense!