New Optoma HD33 HD3300 1080p 3D Projector Review - Page 132

i imagine it's this co2 firmware that is prone to player lockups that also wasn't cooperating with my denon. the handshake issues i had with the denon are gone but it's locking up more with my onkyo. with the denon i kept losing sync/signal over hdmi connections unless i turned everything on in the exact right order.

I was finally able to make the custom cable needed for the MV3D emitter myself (with some help of John). My emitter is now connected to the Sony and I m ready to use my MV3D (Optoma RF) glasses.

1.
How do I pair the glasses with the emitter?

2.
I can set the polarity to TWO red leds or THREE red leds. What is the recommended setting of polarity for the VW95?

3.
I can set the DELAY TUNING and LENS DUTY CYCLE TUNING with the arrows in the submenu of the emitter. What are the best settings for the VW95/what is a good starting-point?

Watched tintin 3D on the HD33. Fell asleep every time I was 15min into the movie. Tried 5 times. I will be honest with you. The 3D is no where near as good as, say, Hugo or Puss in Boots. Very disappointing. I grew up reading all of Tintin comics. Maybe I am comparing it to the books which do not do it justice, but i will say the 3D is just boring. No depth or vast expanse.

Sad, sad because I have been waiting for months to buy the darn thing.
I hate doing this but Thumbs down

wow, i just adjusted to your settings as a test and it looks great. i was previosly at 0 contrast so i expected -9 not to work on my setup but it looks great! thanks for posting those.

what exactly is pure detail and pure color doing?

i'd also like to thank CVH for posting his 3d settings. i tried them out and they blew my previous settings away. between cvh, windshift and guitarman (and lots of other people) this thread has been a very very huge help for me! i'm at 1000 hours and needed a kickstart for my HD3300 and these new settings ae jaw-dropping!

Thanks for the feedback! I'm glad that someone else could verify that those settings were working well.

As for Pure detail and Pure color, the info is hard to find. But I got some tidbits from a french review.

Pure detail would be an advanced algorithm to enhance sharpness and image details.

Pure color is Optoma's branding for Texas Instrument Brilliant Color. It is supposed to boost color brightness and saturation. I have not been able to verify that (no testing), although it would be interesting to see if it actually enhances saturation to maybe improve the color calibration (not that it's bad but it's not perfect).

Sorry If I missed them, but could you post the 3D settings your talking about?

3D Settings

LAMP MODE: STD
DISPLAY MODE: User

CONTRAST: +7
BRIGHTNESS: -4 (if too dark, Increase to preference, but kills the blk level a touch.)
SHARPNESS: 12
COLOR: 20
TINT: 0

ADVANCED:
GAMMA: film
Gamma Film Curve type: -7
Offset: +2

PURE ENGINE:
Pure Motion: off (or 1 if you like. I dont, I like the movie judder)
Pure Detail: off
Pure Color: 1

COLOR SETTINGS:
Color Temp: Medium

RGB BIAS/GAIN:
Red Gain: 0
Green Gain: -2
Blue Gain: 0
Red Bias: +2
Green Bias: 0
Blue Bias: +2

Thank You cvh!

Just to let you know, I do run my 3D settings in STD lamp mode. For me it works great, quieter and saves lamp life. You could, if want to, use the BRIGHT lamp mode instead of STD. Does make it a little brighter, not by much though and I personally don't see a reason to use it. Settings to me plenty bright. I have 125" 1.1 gain screen projected from a distance of 13.5 feet ceiling mounted.

Now I will tell those that use these settings, I run 3D from a Panasonic 3D player with a gamma in Player settings set to darker and the 3D depth in Player set to maximum depth. Player has a manual adjustment for this. Gives picture spectacular depth. Also a note, if you happen to be watching a movie with alot of ambient light and outside light spilling in, use the 3D settings for 2D and you will be amazed how well the settings hold up. Nice blacks and picture in 2D plenty bright to offset the ambient light.

Want to make sure you know of all the details of my setup when using these settings. Use to use Sony PS3 3D Game console and nowhere as good as Panasonic Player for 3D IMO. Now 2d on PS3 looks great. I use it only on my LG 55" LED and my son plays mostly games on it.

Hope it works for you.

Hi, Cvh

does your setting work with 100inches 1.3 gain screen or not?

I use to have a 100" 1.3 Gain screen and a 120" 1.3 gain screen and the 120" was not different at all from my current 125" 1.1 gain screen. but the smaller size 100" did give a slight boost in brightness due to the projector being closer to the screen. I believe for 3D, More brightness never really hurts anyway. I would set HD33 to STD lamp mode and if still too bright, decrease the gamma film curve to -6 or -5 or less if need be. and possibly set the Pure Color from +1 to Off.

Hope this helps.

+1
I've used 3 different PC to see if I could get the firmware to update and have had no success. I have no other alternatives other than to ship it back. Getting the RMA paperwork is also a pain as getting someone to respond to e-mails in a timely manner is extremely difficult. When it works it is a good PJ but I am very turned off by the customer service.

yep - dealing with them is not pleasant at all. you'd think with so many of us not being able to use their firmware updater that they would come to the realization that they need to fix it.

I spend another hour trying to get my RF glasses tweaked to show no ghosting when I tilt my head up. I wasn't very succesful..movies don't have a problem, but it's very evident when playing videogames. I wonder whether it's a generic thing (also with the DLP glasses) or if this is solely due to the RF glasses. Maybe someone can share.

If it Locks Up because of CO2, by all means send it in. I would in a heart beat. You may have to deal with bad Customer service, but in the end, the projector will be updated to CO3. All guys who finally sent it in, got it back and were happy

this is the prime reason i switched to DLP Links. Tilting the head back always caused ghosting with my rf's no matter what the setting. Problem solved with DLP Link....

No Problem Here with my RF's. I now have 4 of them. Any angles, any up down head movements, Sitting on the floor looking up at the screen, zero issues. I don't think it is the Rf's IMO. But if DLP Link seems to fix it, then by all means switch. Prepare for the most uncomfortable glasses ever made for 3D. I once owned 2 pairs.

after about a week the optoma dlp links seem much more comfortable, at least to me

Yeah, you're right. You do get used to them finally. But from day one, the RF's just fit beautifully and very comfortable from the get go. But I must agree with you, the DLP LINKS do have a slight edge in Picture Quality but IMO, not something you will miss or, should I say, Remember. But I agree with you OLEUS. DLP Does have a great image.

I got my PJ in late december from amazon uk, I didn't get it set up until recently so missed the 30 day return policy.

This week I asked amazon to prompt optoma to get back to me about the crashing and they didn't do this, instead they simply replied "new pj on the way..".

Looks like I have really lucked out as it is likely to have c03 or c04 on it and i get 30 days to send the old one back so i can properly test the new one before deciding which to send back.

brilliant customer service from amazon

will be a fantastic pj without the crashing which does worry me about long lamp life as it isn't doing its cool down process when you kill the power to it.

if i bought the projector through AVScience, do i need to go through them first before contacting Optoma about an RMA ?

what is the best 3d dlp glasses for hd33?

thanks

I would say the optoma 3D DLP LINK. Besides the uncomfortable feel, which you may get use to, has, IMO, the best picture quality. I have not tried any other glasses. DLP from optoma have gotten rave reviews.

i have tried three different brands of DLP Links and it's not even close - the Optomas win hands-down in terms of picture quality. The Ultimate3dHeaven Ultraclears and the Vision Experience dlp's both exhibit the red-to-green shift across the lens that is very annoying if you move your head at all.

How do I check which firmware I have?

press menu on remote, look at the top right corner on first page, should say CO1, CO2 or CO3.

I just got a pair of ZD201's and they feel fantastic compared to my VIP Ultraclear knock-offs. It's killing me because I haven't had a chance to try them yet as I'm waiting for my pj to come back from a firmware update. I was hoping for today, but it's looking like it won't be back until Monday. The build quality of the 201's is first rate, and the lenses look much, much better than the Ultraclears. Learn from the lessons of others including myself...don't cheap out - get the Optomas.

Awesome. Thank you.

One more question...

I got the Optoma RF glasses. I understand that there is some "fine tuning" to do with regards to "duty cycle" and "delay". Is there a easy walkthrough I could see on how to best do this fine tuning?