Considering that out of warranty repair/lamp costs on projectors can easily surpass that at times, personally I feel the difference is well worth it on that fact alone, even ignoring the slightly beefed up specs.
if I could live with blk projector, DrNegative is absolutley right. Great warranty and trust me, you will be glad you did when all hell breaks loose under warranty. Just a thought.
If I had the extra cash, I may have gotten the hd3300. But I needed a white projector to blend into my white ceiling for a clean look. Guitarman will tell u the differences. Once my focus issue is fixed I will be very satisfied. Heck I was satisfied to begin with but I am anal about the slightest flaw. Once I noticed the blur in the left, it bugs me now.
I'm in the same boat, ready to pull the trigger on a new projector, but the WAF means a white HD33 unit for me.
CVH, very nice, clean installation on the projector by the way. Can you comment on your screen ensemble in the distance on the 2nd photo? Is that a ready made kit, or did you rig the end supports for the screen?
"Nope. You're not going to notice the extra lumens and contrast to be very honest."
You haven't read this thread through. I showed a light meter reading showing the HD3300 produced a solid 2000 lumens while Projector Center and Projector reviews got only 1200 lumens out of the HD33's they got to test. Art even asked me how I got such a high reading, the picture of the light meter shows it and that's better than a thousand words.
Regarding corner blurring, I had this on my HD33 initially. I sent the unit back for a different problem but mentioned the corner blurriness and the tech said he'd check whether there is anything he could do, which it turns out there is. Apparently he could tweak a couple of internal settings and this proved to be very effective. I now have corner to corner sharpness. Pays to ask it seems
I remember your post way back. I was going to send it in then, but was enjoying my hd33 and didn't want to let it go. I finally sent mine in yesterday. Will be arriving there next Wednesday May 16. Thnx for the post. Because of it, I knew it could be fixed.
I'm in the same boat, ready to pull the trigger on a new projector, but the WAF means a white HD33 unit for me.
CVH, very nice, clean installation on the projector by the way. Can you comment on your screen ensemble in the distance on the 2nd photo? Is that a ready made kit, or did you rig the end supports for the screen?
It is not a kit. I set it up this way in order to project at the right distance to fit my theater room. (really not a dedicated theater room. Don't have an extra room large enough for it. It is light controlled though, and once screen is down, feels like u at the movies. When screen goes up then back to our Den. I have an LG LED 55" TV to the left of the room for casual den viewing.) I have a very weird ceiling setup. It runs from 8ft high and runs diagonally up to like 16ft. Complicated layout to say the least.
The ceiling you see where the projector is actually mounted is the flat 8ft ceiling in our hallway which opens up from the den and kitchen. Weird I know. But it works. I also had to clear the fireplace because I hate looking up at a screen on the wall above the Fireplace. I set the screen at optimal eye level based on online calculations and came up with where the screen needed to be. Also in order to clear the fireplace if mounted on the wall above it, I would have had to build a wood beam about 20" out to clear fireplace. No thnx.
I am a videographer and an aspiring filmmaker so had background stands that hold backgrounds sheets for filming and picture taking. Worked perfectly. All I had to do is place the round steel hoop on the back of the housing then on top of the Stands which has a 3" high 1/4" dia. steel holder. That's it. Stands holds the sucker up. if I need to take it down, just raise screen housing up off the stands in case I have a large social. Very Portable. Usually is actually stays there all the time. No nuts or bolts to loosen. The Screen is 125" Elite motorized and 12volt triggered with 1.2 gain. Projector 14ft away from screen and seating right under projector. Attached a few pics. No projector in pics because sent it in for adjustments.
Okay way to much info, but hope this sparks others to share their setups with pics and such.
"Nope. You're not going to notice the extra lumens and contrast to be very honest."
You haven't read this thread through. I showed a light meter reading showing the HD3300 produced a solid 2000 lumens while Projector Center and Projector reviews got only 1200 lumens out of the HD33's they got to test. Art even asked me how I got such a high reading, the picture of the light meter shows it and that's better than a thousand words.
Hi Tom, I have read through the entire thread which is one of the reasons why I ended up going with the HD3300. I should have added that after comparing both the HD33 and the HD3300, "to my eyes", the difference between the two is minimal.
"to my eyes" But you did no technical tests. I think the public should listen to what I had to say. 2000 lumens tuned down also.
Hey this morning I thought the colors looked a little light on the User setting in the first post. Now at 650hrs I got out the Avia disc, I like it's color adjustment feature (the flashing boxes). Any way I had to move color up to +15 and tint to +1. Contrast and brightness didn't need to be changed plus the graysale looked fine, no color bias at all in the large gray to white boxes of the pluge pattern.
This pluge pattern is a good way to see how your grayscale looks and make adjustments.
Allot of time with different projectors I'll see pink in the high end light gray to white and maybe green or blue in the low end dark grays. Use your RGB gains for the highs and RGB bias for the lows to remove and of these color tints, make gray look perfectly gray and white pure white.
When I start out and see allot of color bias I'll first toggle through the color temp choices for the best one then fine tune with the RGBs.
Quick update... Received my HD3300 today and it's perfect out the box!!! Near perfect light uniformity and sharp as a tack in all 4 corners. Now this proves (at least in my head) that there's a big manufacturing difference between the HD33 and the HD3300. So glad that I upgraded!!
So i went back and tried CVH's 3d settings again and they looked better than what I had after recalibrating, except that I have to have contrast at -20 to avoid crushing whites (and have brightness at -5 instead of -4). I wonder why my contrast setting is so much different?
I only noticed it during the planet animation sequence of the Imax "ultimate wave tahiti" where there is a closeup of a hurricane eye, and the storm system was entirely white instead of showing the rotation/eye detail.
Guy Kuo the author of Avia told me on the digital white bar pattern which just has two bars and a white background meant for digital projectors. He said to raise it till the one bar can't be seen then bring it back till you see it and lower it a couple of numbers more.
"to my eyes" But you did no technical tests. I think the public should listen to what I had to say. 2000 lumens tuned down also.
Ok. I never stated that I did any technical tests nor would I ever. I was just stating my opinion, that's all and I still stand by my opinion that to my eyes, the difference was minimal.
By all means, test away and say what you find out. The public should listen to both (your facts and others people opinions) and make their own mind up.
The HD3300 is still by far the better value based off of warranty alone and the fact that it's built with the best parts available. Everything else is a bonus.
I showed a light meter reading showing the HD3300 produced a solid 2000 lumens while Projector Center and Projector reviews got only 1200 lumens out of the HD33's they got to test.
Hi guitarman,
Can you tell me if the extra brightness of the HD3300 can be used in 3D mode for a brighter 3D picture ? By that I mean, are all 3D modes "Locked In Presets, that won't let you raise the brightness level of the projector, so you can't take advantage of the projectors extra lumens for 3D ?
Ok. I never stated that I did any technical tests nor would I ever. I was just stating my opinion, that's all and I still stand by my opinion that to my eyes, the difference was minimal.
By all means, test away and say what you find out. The public should listen to both (your facts and others people opinions) and make their own mind up.
The HD3300 is still by far the better value based off of warranty alone and the fact that it's built with the best parts available. Everything else is a bonus.
I am sure the HD3300 is a no brainer. Both are fantastic projectors I am Sure. If I had the time and money, i would love to invest in ISF Calibration Equip. and light meters and such. But, I am with chucky08016 that if you can tweak settings visually and find a setting that you just love and works for you, nothing else matters. I have always eyeballed visually on all my video gear, lcd tv's, camera monitors as well as our churches projector screens and Pro Panasonic studio cameras and all video monitors for our video production there. All done visually and everybody loves it. Takes time yes, but it is all about what you see or perceive to see that is pleasing to your eye.
I believe guitarman is a videophile/audiophile who perceives, thinks and sees in calculations, numbers, patterns and such. I take my hat off to him and all he has done for us in this thread. Heck, he started it! Guitarman, if you say it, I believe it 100%. Thank you sir.
For us non videophile, audiophile or pro techies, i am happy with how I do things and have never been disappointed in what i see or what I can live with once I have achieved my liking and am finally satisfied. As of right now after all my video equipment been tweaked, I have not altered or tampered with any since, and that includes my HD33. Well, until the next time I buy a new video toy
So i went back and tried CVH's 3d settings again and they looked better than what I had after recalibrating, except that I have to have contrast at -20 to avoid crushing whites (and have brightness at -5 instead of -4). I wonder why my contrast setting is so much different?
I only noticed it during the planet animation sequence of the Imax "ultimate wave tahiti" where there is a closeup of a hurricane eye, and the storm system was entirely white instead of showing the rotation/eye detail.
Just a note: I use STD lamp mode for 3D on HD33. That might be the cause. Not sure. If u have HD3300 that may also change things. I also have Imax Ultimate wave and will chk it out on that animation.Well, that is when I receive my beloved HD33 from Optoma. Really miss it already.
Hi guitarman,
Can you tell me if the extra brightness of the HD3300 can be used in 3D mode for a brighter 3D picture ? By that I mean, are all 3D modes "Locked In Presets, that won't let you raise the brightness level of the projector, so you can't take advantage of the projectors extra lumens for 3D ?
The boost is for 3D mode. When a 3D signal goes to the PJ it shoots to Dynamic gamma which has the brightest level, plus it uses bright lamp mode. This combination is tuned by Optoma to the glasses. Grayscale looks great colors are vibrant and natural. The 3D tuning shouldn't be altered. If you want to tune down, tune the 2D film or standard gamma setting in low lamp mode.
I'm starting to think the PC reviewers and Projector Review guys didn't use the 3D mode / dynamic gamma when they tested the projectors lumens level.
I am sure the HD3300 is a no brainer. Both are fantastic projectors I am Sure. If I had the time and money, i would love to invest in ISF Calibration Equip. and light meters and such. But, I am with chucky08016 that if you can tweak settings visually and find a setting that you just love and works for you, nothing else matters. I have always eyeballed visually on all my video gear, lcd tv's, camera monitors as well as our churches projector screens and Pro Panasonic studio cameras and all video monitors for our video production there. All done visually and everybody loves it. Takes time yes, but it is all about what you see or perceive to see that is pleasing to your eye.
I believe guitarman is a videophile/audiophile who perceives, thinks and sees in calculations, numbers, patterns and such. I take my hat off to him and all he has done for us in this thread. Heck, he started it! Guitarman, if you say it, I believe it 100%. Thank you sir.
For us non videophile, audiophile or pro techies, i am happy with how I do things and have never been disappointed in what i see or what I can live with once I have achieved my liking and am finally satisfied. As of right now after all my video equipment been tweaked, I have not altered or tampered with any since, and that includes my HD33. Well, until the next time I buy a new video toy
Thanks, this info I posted just above is most important if you're going for an eyeball tuning. I laid this proceedure out many times. I got over 100 projectors to tune delivered to me. Many were pink and green and blue biased. Ok I used my colorfacts system but if you take your time you can get close with the eyeball format I talked about. The key is your color won't be as intended and natural until all your shades of gray look steely gray with no color bias. You have a task ahead of you use your eye make gray gray, no pink/green/ or blue in the gray.
"This pluge pattern is a good way to see how your grayscale looks and make adjustments.
Allot of time with different projectors I'll see pink in the high end light gray to white and maybe green or blue in the low end dark grays. Use your RGB gains for the highs and RGB bias for the lows to remove and of these color tints, make gray look perfectly gray and white pure white.
When I start out and see allot of color bias I'll first toggle through the color temp choices for the best one then fine tune with the RGBs."
If anyone wants a free calibration on the hd33 with a NIST cert'd C6 colorimeter, shoot me a PM. The hd33 is one of the last projectors I haven't had a chance to test much from this year.
The boost is for 3D mode. When a 3D signal goes to the PJ it shoots to Dynamic gamma which has the brightest level, plus it uses bright lamp mode.
I'm starting to think the PC reviewers and Projector Review guys didn't use the 3D mode / dynamic gamma when they tested the projectors lumens level.
Ok Thanks guitarman,
So both the HD33 & HD3300 have this boost in 3D mode correct ?
But you do feel the HD3300 does have an edge over the HD33 in 3D brightness ?
The boost is for 3D mode. When a 3D signal goes to the PJ it shoots to Dynamic gamma which has the brightest level, plus it uses bright lamp mode. This combination is tuned by Optoma to the glasses. Grayscale looks great colors are vibrant and natural. The 3D tuning shouldn't be altered. If you want to tune down, tune the 2D film or standard gamma setting in low lamp mode.
I'm starting to think the PC reviewers and Projector Review guys didn't use the 3D mode / dynamic gamma when they tested the projectors lumens level.
Guitarman - any chance you can post the factory 3d settings for us?
I think the boost in the default mode blows out the whites. I'm having to dial down to -20 for white detail to stay intact. It looked really good until you have a scene with a lot of high white detail and I was shocked how much detail was being blown out at any 3d contrast setting higher than -20 to -17.
Just a note: I use STD lamp mode for 3D on HD33. That might be the cause. Not sure. If u have HD3300 that may also change things. I also have Imax Ultimate wave and will chk it out on that animation.Well, that is when I receive my beloved HD33 from Optoma. Really miss it already.
i think it's a great disc to help check out 3d settings. that animation sequence in the beginning is some AMAZING 3d, and that closeup of the hurricane swirling is a nice white level check. like i said, your modified 3d settings looked great to me, i just noticed a lot of white crushing there and had to dial way down (and i had your settings on low lamp mode).
i think it's a great disc to help check out 3d settings. that animation sequence in the beginning is some AMAZING 3d, and that closeup of the hurricane swirling is a nice white level check. like i said, your modified 3d settings looked great to me, i just noticed a lot of white crushing there and had to dial way down (and i had your settings on low lamp mode).
Funny, I just dont see any blown whites in any movie in 3D. I will chk though and dial down contrast to -20. I think I tried that way back, but made image too flat and dark. I will let you know. Man I miss my HD33. Tonight is movie night. Crapola.
Funny, I just dont see any blown whites in any movie in 3D. I will chk though and dial down contrast to -20. I think I tried that way back, but made image too flat and dark. I will let you know. Man I miss my HD33. Tonight is movie night. Crapola.
well i didn't realize there were any blown out whites until that one exact scene on that one disc. maybe it's unusually bright. everything looked right before that with your settings. it does look darker on my new settings, but since i have to dial down to -23 in 2d to avoid blown out whites, who knows.
when i was on C02 my settings were not that low, and i wasn't crushing whites.
Try this 3D Setting. It may be way to warm, might have to Tweak.
Dont test with "Tahiti Ultimate Wave" first. Test last.
Fantastic DEEP BLK Levels. I bit crushed I think.
Great place to start.
I personally did not like it, closely matched 2d on my LG which is ISF calibrated.
I rather prefer the blue end of the spectrum, not red.
This 3D setting does the following:*
1. Remove the green tint from glasses on RF Optoma Glasses. DLP link cant say. Dont have one.
2. enhances shadow detail and gives darker blk levels. Avoids blown whites.
3. brightens up 3D image
4. matches my 55 LED LG TV which is ISF calibrated for 2D
LAMP MODE: STD (saves on bulb life and reduces fan noise due to Projector working extra hard for 3D)
DISPLAY MODE: User
CONTRAST: -20
BRIGHTNESS: -4 (if too dark, Increase to preference, but kills the blk level a touch.)
SHARPNESS: 12
COLOR: 20
TINT: 0
ADVANCED:
GAMMA:
film Gamma
Film Curve type: -7 Offset: +3
PURE ENGINE:
Pure Motion: low
Pure Detail: off
Pure Color: 3 (adjust to preference)
COLOR SETTINGS:
Color Temp: Cold
RGB BIAS/GAIN:
Red Gain: -17
Green Gain: -16
Blue Gain: -2
Red Bias: -2
Green Bias: -5
Blue Bias: +1
This is not set in stone. I played around with it when I first got my HD33.
I reverted back to my original 3D setting. Remember, you will like pros of each user setting. But cant have both.
It is what you can live with and don't look back, otherwise you will never be satisfied. It will end up driving you crazy. I know.
I am Happy with what I finally settled on and now can enjoy 3D.
1. Remove the green tint from glasses.
2. enhances shadow detail and gives darker blk levels. Avoids blown whites.
3. brightens up 3D image
4. matches my 55 LED LG TV which is ISF calibrated.
5. I personally did not like, but matched my LG which is ISF calibrated. I rather prefer the blue end of the spectrum.
LAMP MODE: STD
DISPLAY MODE: User
CONTRAST: -20
BRIGHTNESS: -4 (if too dark, Increase to preference, but kills the blk level a touch.)
SHARPNESS: 12
COLOR: 20
TINT: 0
ADVANCED: GAMMA: film Gamma Film Curve type: -7 Offset: +3
PURE ENGINE:
Pure Motion: low
Pure Detail: off
Pure Color: 3
COLOR SETTINGS:
Color Temp: Cold
RGB BIAS/GAIN:
Red Gain: -17
Green Gain: -16
Blue Gain: -2
Red Bias: -2
Green Bias: -5
Blue Bias: +1
i'll check this setting out ! contrast and brightness are exactly where i have mine set, i'll try the other parameters and report back
i haven't tried them, but those settings seem bananas to me. i mean the 3d image is a little too dark as it is. seems like standard lamp mode would make it unwatchable. and with those color settings, i don't see how colors could be accurate at all.
maybe i'll give them a shot this weekend. just bought a handful of new 3d movies.
i haven't tried them, but those settings seem bananas to me. i mean the 3d image is a little too dark as it is. seems like standard lamp mode would make it unwatchable. and with those color settings, i don't see how colors could be accurate at all.
maybe i'll give them a shot this weekend. just bought a handful of new 3d movies.
well like experienced yesterday, the brighter 3d image was blowing out the whites and i didn't even know it until i started testing certain scenes!
i was actually pretty shocked how much i had to dial down the contrast to get back details in the whites (scenes like bright clouds in the sky, etc)...stuff I didn't even know was there on certain discs.