New Optoma HD33 HD3300 1080p 3D Projector Review - Page 146

Man, that's not Good. Seems like you are having alot of Issues with CO4. I wonder what's going on.

So far this is the only issue. I was able to recalibrate to where it looks great FYI... i reset the film gamma to defaults and it brought the calibration numbers much more into the "normal" range with no white clipping.

On C02 it would lock up constantly so hopefully this is an isolated incident. If it happens again I'll call Optoma..

Good! Great to hear re calibration went well.

Can anyone confirm that when a 3D signal is coming in that you can select a 2D signal by selecting Left or Right images?

it could all be in my head, but i think the right side of my projector's image is a little brighter than the left. the projector casts a V-shaped light on the ceiling and the right side of the V is much brighter than the left. is this a known issue with projectors or does anyone know what might cause it?

It is often a unit-variance thing, some projectors have worse brightness uniformity than others. It could be the lamp or a problem in the optical path. However, most projectors do not have 100% perfect brightness and color uniformity.

You could try an RMA and swap it for a different unit, it may be better than the current unit, but no way to know for sure (it could even be worse).

Just an update about shipping off HD33 to Optoma for Focus issue and blurred image on left side of screen. It arrives today. Turn around time has been, including weekends, 8 days.

Will keep those posted who have been following this process. Will report of outcome once I fire up HD33.

So far, the customer service has been excellent. thanks Optoma for a great experience. I was told that each projector has a slight variance in focus, brightness and Color Uniformity. will see if any better in focus issue on returned hd33.

that's odd that they would say each projector has variance in focus and color uniformity. shouldn't these all be capable of achieving proper focus?

Apparently not 100% as guitarman and coderguy previously stated. We'll see if there is a vast improvement or not. Let you know.

definitely let us know.

having their tech support say something like "focus varies between units" seems like kind of a copout to me...poor quality control leads to varying focus between units...

This is the third projector i've owned and the third different brand i've owned, and i've honestly never heard anything like "focus varies between units" from any projector's technical support unit. Budget unit or not, focus shouldn't be something that varies between units. If it does, that's a defect.

You can voraciously defend Optoma all you want, but having customers expect a product with a lens that is in focus is certainly not asking for something unreasonable on the customer's part. And the "color purity varies between units" just doesn't make sense.

Another reason this will be my first and last Optoma product....i'm still getting lockups on Co4 firmware, so I'm assuming I have a lemon and will have to send it back (again).

One thing we can agree on, I guess we do get what we pay for.

When I was younger I wanted to build a telescope.
I don't know if the production of lenses have changed since then, but what I learned was this. Lenses are like finger prints, I do not think you can make two exactly the same, much less, without some flaws. The more money you spend the smaller the flaws become, but no lens is flawless.
So the 33HD lenses are the ones that got inspected and put into the "Good" bin, and the 3300HD lenses would be the ones that got inspected and put into the "little better than good" bin. The lenses that go into the 10,000 dollar projectors are the ones that got inspected and put into the "So good I shat my pants" bin.
The one thing they all have in common, is that no two are exactly the same.
Like people, we are all a little different, and all a little flawed.
We all have a "slight variance"

I may grab me an hd33 (or hd3300) very soon to compliment my JVC RS-45, and as the price continues to fall, this looks like a great buy for me with the 6x color wheel to replace my Viewsonic Pro8200 (which isn't doing 1:1 pixel mapping, plus it has no 3D). I may make THIS my FINAL combo for a while, the RS-45 for 2D, and the Optoma hd33 for 3D and TV and some 2D. The Pro8200 I own has one of the best focus uniformity I've ever seen on a projector (which is weird given how cheap it is), but the pixel mapping error makes it uniformly less sharp (which is probably contributing to why I cannot see any uniformity error).

To me, the hd33 seems like a great unit with only one real potential issue, consistent focus uniformity between units?

I can say from experience, I have seem (6) different Mits hc3800/hc4000 DLP's, and the focus uniformity was close, but there was still some variance in them. Color uniformity is more varying then focus uniformity on average, but both can vary.

However, at least one poster in these forums claimed to have seen (5) different Benq w6000's, and he said the variance was all over the place in focus uniformity and CA (and I didn't see any reason for him to lie). I have seen a few Benq w1200's and w6000's (just a couple), they looked about the same to me, but I didn't own them or have them long enough to do a precise test (saw them in stores and what not). So, yes and no, this isn't like convergence where it is often WAY far off, and some DLP's will have better consistency than others, but some may not.

People also need to remember to try focusing at different points in the screen to average the uniformity issue. Generally speaking, this means focusing about 1/4 to 1/3rd to the right of the left side of the screen (this should be the most focused point, not the center). However, different PJ's are different, so try focusing at different points, you may just be shocked at the difference.

It probably has to do with the precision of the assembly of the optics. Even a tiny difference in 0.0001 mm can throw a slight variance, that's why there is some variance. That said, I think you can still get one with a defective lens assembly that could be way off or far worse than average, but odds are probably that you'll get one closer to average.

i didn't realize focus uniformity was such a common issue. i guess i've been lucky in the focus department.

also, i've been very happy with the fact that i don't have to constantly re-focus the optoma as i had to do quite often with my epson.

Im leaning toward in getting an HD3300 but I cant find it; only the HD33. Searching over the web I found the Optoma HD8300 Refurbished for $1639 and can add 3 years warranty for another $175. Is this a good deal? or get a new HD33 / HD3300? I have no idea how much costs a new HD8300.....

Without having seen them both, I'd probably go with the hd8300 because it has an IRIS and a tad bit of Lens shift (which can come in handy if you ever move it). Contrast measurements pre-IRIS have been all over the place on this unit, anywhere from 1500:1 to 4500:1, who to believe I have no idea. My bet is the native on/off is slightly higher and with the IRIS it will be a winner. It won't be as bright for 3D though. I may do the hd8300 refurb instead of the hd33 (tempting). Can you PM me that deal if it is in the US?


So your unit has good uniformity?

Well as long as some do, I'll exchange it if I get a bad one. I just need to know some are good (which I am expecting they are). The only way I will not purchase this projector is if I wait until Fall and something better with a 5x or 6x wheel comes out (but that looks unlikely). I really need the 6x wheel, that is why I gave up on the others.

coderguy -

My unit has fine focus uniformity. I noticed it has a bit of a bright spot center-left, so not 100% brightness uniformity but the focus is very good from corner to corner.

Is it true that the RF-Glasses will work with the HD33 when it is set to DLP-Link mode ?
Is it also true, that some think the picture even looks better, using the RF-glasses with the projector set to DLP mode, than it does with the projector set to RF-mode ?

This question has been answered before a few threads back. I read that u can use both RF and DLP Link at the same time. There was a setting that needed to be changed. There is pros and cons IMO between the two which has been discussed several pages back.

Can anyone confirm this for "Big Picture" about using both together?

UPDATE:
Go Back to Page 101. I believe Oleus answered this question.

I think you will be impressed with the HD33 as a whole. As for uniformity, it has never been an issue for me personally on the HD3300 (looks perfect corner to corner on 150" screen), and seems to be a tad better than my HD20 over the entire range, though the HD20 didn't look bad either.

Yes, you can use DLP Link and RF glasses at the same time but those using the RF glasses will get a slight red hue.

To me, RF and DLP Link both look exactly the same.

I am looking to buy projector for my 165 inch diagonal 16:10 Da Lite High Power screen. Is anyone using HD 33 for screen this size? Any feedback if this projector will be powerful / good enough for my screen? Max projector distance from screen can be 21 feet.

With a 2.4 gain HP screen, well... You will really only get about 1.3 to 1.4 gain because of the mounting height, I think it will be fine for 2D, for 3D a bit tough.

You do realize how expensive a 2.4 gain HP screen is at these sizes, right?
I mean the screen will cost more than the projector most likely. If I were you, I'd just buy 2 screens (maybe a tripod screen) and use the smaller screen for 3D. Either that or get something that will actually give you 2.0+ gain (non-retro reflective). Keep in mind though that non-retro screens at gains above 1.5+ often have more side effects. What makes the HP screen good is there are no real side effects to the added brightness (no hot spotting, no texture, no glittering), well the side effect is narrow viewing angle, but I mean there will be many worse side effects with some screens that have high gain.

It will probably be relatively ok in 3D at first on a new lamp, as the lamp fades it will get too dim pretty fast for 3D.

Unless you floor mount (which is hard to do), or unless you just sit really TALL, like if you are 6 foot 5" and sit up and don't recline, then you will need more gain than the HP can give you at that screen size. The other option you have is to mount the screen literally right at floor level (like 2-4 inches above the floor). That way the difference between your eye-height and the projector's lens to the screen will be less, and the HP will give you more gain. Mounting a screen that low isn't as comfortable to watch on, but it's not bad either if the sitting area or room allows it.

Hello Coderguy -

I have already bought the Da Lite screen model # 34471 http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...Motorized.html

and it is already mounted starting at about 2 feet from the floor. I tried to point my old projector optoma ep726s to it and the image is not very good - that projector I believe is 2200 lumens, 2200:1 contrast ratio and XGA resolution.

I am seriously considering Optoma HD 23 as it has 2500 lumens way more than Optoma HD 33 & HD 20. Still not sure if it will be able to light my 139inch * 87 inch well.

Well, I finally got HD33 back from Optoma. If some of you have been keeping up with my progress from sending off HD33 to optoma and having a few issues fixed, well I can finally report the whole process.

Firstly, optoma customer service has been excellent. Responded to my calls, emails very fast an promptly. They even called me to tell me of the status.
So to cut a long story short, Issues have been resolved.

If some of u remember, I had a focus issue on the left of image and a slight hot spot on the right, off center. I received it 2 day FedEx express.
I finally fired up HD33 last night after receiving it Friday due to going to DC for Memorial day weekend. Drove me crazy. Could not wait to get home.

I now have Uniform brightness, focus and no hotspots. I was kind of afraid my originally custom picture settings would be different, but nothing has changed. I made sure i wrote down all my settings before shipping it out. It also has CO3 firmware.

honestly, the picture actually looks better IMO. Nice sharpness overall, Focus uniform, brightness even throughout screen with no hotspots and blk levels still fantastic.

So, I am very pleased with the results and the process of working with optoma customer service. I never had any issues of no response or delays.

great Job optoma. You have made me a very happy and satisfied customer.

That's good to hear CVH.

I wonder why mine came back with all of my settings different? And they must have new customer service reps because your experience with their communication couldn't be different than my dealings with them.

I'm still getting lockups on C04, so I'll definitely be taking them up on their offer to swap my unit out after it came back scratched. Whatever lockup issues C03/C04 addressed isn't working on my unit even though the lockups are less frequent.

When the lockup happens, I see a red flash on the bottom half of the screen whenever I switch between inputs. The unit is operational when this happens, but I have to unplus it to turn it off and the unit doesn't respond to remote commands.