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New Optoma HD33 HD3300 1080p 3D Projector Review - Page 160

post #4771 of 5304
Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarman View Post

It's normal, that would be the color wheel kicking in. You can also hear it do sounds when you shoot to 3D mode and back.

hmm, i didn't really notice it before.

Another issue/grip, is when adjusting setting in the menu and bouncing back to the image be played it's like it's resetting, as i see green flashes here and there.

Reason i'm being a little more picky now is, i'm approaching the end of my return policy - and the LG CF181D is available at the same price, which might be a good alternative.
But i don't see many owners of the LG CF181D...
post #4772 of 5304
Hi everyone,

Just picked up the projector from the Amazon 1,093$ deal. This is my first projector and the first 3D device I've bought. I just ordered a ceiling mount from monoprice but still have to go find a 120" manual screen since Amazon is sold out of all the 16:9 ones. A few questions if you guys don't mind.


1. Which display / color settings should I change my projector to get the best picture I can?


2. What 3D glasses does everyone recommend that provides the best 3D picture and may not be to expensive(dreading if I have to pay 80$ per glasses).


3. Does anyone use an HTPC with their projector? I'm planning to build an HTPC in September when the i3 Ivy Bridge's come out. Plan to just have a 3TB hard drive and put as many blu rays / 3D movies as I can. Anyone have tips for me for software or setting or anything 3D related so I don't run into any headaches?


4. I followed the projector screen size guide that you guys have linked and it says my projector needs to be a minimum of 13 feet back from the wall to get 120" on max wheel zoom. Is it fine setting it up that way or should I try to aim for 14 feet back so I don't have to zoom it all the way to fit 120"?
post #4773 of 5304
Quote:
Originally Posted by filipp2442 View Post

Hi everyone,
Just picked up the projector from the Amazon 1,093$ deal. This is my first projector and the first 3D device I've bought. I just ordered a ceiling mount from monoprice but still have to go find a 120" manual screen since Amazon is sold out of all the 16:9 ones. A few questions if you guys don't mind.
1. Which display / color settings should I change my projector to get the best picture I can?
2. What 3D glasses does everyone recommend that provides the best 3D picture and may not be to expensive(dreading if I have to pay 80$ per glasses).
3. Does anyone use an HTPC with their projector? I'm planning to build an HTPC in September when the i3 Ivy Bridge's come out. Plan to just have a 3TB hard drive and put as many blu rays / 3D movies as I can. Anyone have tips for me for software or setting or anything 3D related so I don't run into any headaches?
4. I followed the projector screen size guide that you guys have linked and it says my projector needs to be a minimum of 13 feet back from the wall to get 120" on max wheel zoom. Is it fine setting it up that way or should I try to aim for 14 feet back so I don't have to zoom it all the way to fit 120"?

Congrats on the great puchase you'll love it. (got mine for 1150 refurbed and thought that was a great deal).

1. Checkout CVH's post on HD33 settings in this forum for settings. I have tried them all but keep going back to the referance default. Seams to work the best for me with eveything. Some of his settings help with some movies but not all.

2. I am using the cheap $30 DLP link glasses off Ebay. (bought them used and the band is not on the glasses). There are a lot of reviews on the best glasses but these for me work well ( they do show a little red flash from the DLP link flash in the black levels). I also have some Mitts 2100 series IR glasses with the Mitts IR emmiter pluged in and they are lighter and no red flash with DLP link turned off (these are about $20). They work great but can't use them with the DLP links.

3. I have a HTPC older AMD 64 Dual core, Gforce 430 video, newer LG blu-ray burner and powerDVD 10. It took me over a month to get it all to work with the right drivers and settings. It will play choppy some times and I still have problems with it. But its OK, its a heck of a lot easyier to use a blu-ray player. It will cost a whole lot more to get a HTPC to play movies.

4. I have a 110" screen and projector is mounted about 12.5'. Zoom is about maxed out and it looks great. I would not worry about using max zoom
post #4774 of 5304
Hey guys,

I've noticed in my readings a couple of 3D formats that aren't supported by the HD33, yet should be able to be if updated via firmware as they don't exceed the bandwidth of the HDMI controller. I would be interested in your thoughts on the following:

- 1080p/30 frame packed for 3D - This would FULL 3D frame-packed per eye at 30 frames, IMO a significant upgrade for gamers over 1080p/24 fp

- 1080/60i Frame Packed for 3D - This would allow playback of vision from camcorders such as Sony's TD10 & TD20 at their maximum quality.

As I previously mentioned both of these formats fit bandwidth wise down the current HDMI chipset.

I would love to see these two formats supported via a firmware update for our beloved HD33/HD3300's, any chance of this happening?

Cheers,

Joe.
post #4775 of 5304
Quote:
Originally Posted by filipp2442 View Post

2. What 3D glasses does everyone recommend that provides the best 3D picture and may not be to expensive(dreading if I have to pay 80$ per glasses).

I think this all based on if you and your veiwers are wearing prescription galsses. If yes, then the Optoma BG-3DRFGLASSES RF's tend to be the consensus winners. If not, There are a lot of DLP links to choose from.
Quote:
Originally Posted by filipp2442 View Post

3. Does anyone use an HTPC with their projector? I'm planning to build an HTPC in September when the i3 Ivy Bridge's come out. Plan to just have a 3TB hard drive and put as many blu rays / 3D movies as I can. Anyone have tips for me for software or setting or anything 3D related so I don't run into any headaches?

I ran my old HTPC ( Intel 2.5GHz Dual-Core Processor, 6gb ddr2 800 and a Nvidia gt430 )though this projector with no problems. Great HD, 3D and audio via hdmi.
I now run my gaming PC ( i7 2600k, 8gb ddr3 1600, Nvidia GTX 670) with amazing results.
post #4776 of 5304
Hi ALL, just read all 160 pages, WOW. What a thread. Previous owner of a Optoma HD81 that died on me, based on recommendation and advice from this forum i have now a HD33, and WOW, did they just put a Rolls Royce engine in this baby. I got it from richer sounds with 5 year warranty and 2 pairs of free RF glasses. The 2D surpasses the HD81, the 3D is mind blowing and surpasses any high end Samsung LED TV even 3 times the price. Those on the bench, close your eyes and get it, let me repeat that, buy it now don't, waste time. I cant remembered the last time i watched a 2D movie, everything is so lifelike and animated in 3D it adds emotion to your experience (Hugo), this is how 3D should have been pushed, not ghosting LED TV's ruining the experience or cheap pop out affects (read further).

Now that is out the way, a few questions. I rang Optoma and they say there is a C05 firmware, just wondered if anyone knows what it addresses, Optoma said they will call back with the details so will let you know, but projector would need to be sent back for this. I am running c04 firmware and on a Stewart Firehawk 82" diagonal, using Oppo 93 bluray player through a Pioneer SC LX73 amp (I am in London). All the cabling is Chord HDMI 1.3a and 3D is flawless. Every title i read about on bluray.com that may have had average views or faults mentioned do not exhibit whatsoever on this projector, everything seems to run flawlessly (all seems reference material). I have 40+ titles now, i would recommend (3D done the right way) Hugo, Tangled, Despicable Me, Sammie's Adventure, IMAX under the sea, Legends of Flight, Avatar, and many more but will not list here. The combination of hardware mentioned above seems to be optimized to work perfectly together, colors, calibration, brightness, etc almost as if professional ISF guys put the exact kit together and calibrated to reference levels (i only had to do minimum modification). Those with concerns for Black levels do not even think about it, when you first get the unit the Wow factor alone will diminish this issue, you may "think" black levels are an issue in the earlier period, but i agree with Guitarman, let this baby hit 100+hours and the blacks become solid and colors/contrasts wow a new level. It's a shame reviewers do not have time to test this projector after 100 hours because it would give them a completely different review.

Only concern, well not concern, clarification (reason why inquired about firmwares). I do remember that in the theater when i watched some movies such as ICE AGE 3, there were scenes where leaves would float our of the screen near you to the left or right. Now I am not for the gimmicky affects a i feel this can ruin the natural look and intention of 3D, I am more a depth man and it is stunning on the HD33. I am just wondering that with this projector you do get pop out but it will be close to the screen giving you a nice affect but for those scene's where you want snow to fill your room for example it will not give you this reach and stays within the frame. I have checked the COD fish in IMAX under the sea and yes there is a lot more bulging out of the screen then other material but the reach is not as much as i have seen in some setups. Another example in MvAliens where the colonel is floating with a hover pack, on a Samsung c8000 55" he was floating close to the viewer slightly to the right of you, whereas for me on the HD33 he is slightly out of the screen but closer to the screen only slightly in front of it. As per call above Optoma clarified the projector is more about depth and it does not disappoint. I have tried various BR players including PS3 and recommended Panasonic ones but i get same consistent results with pop. Overall not a big deal as the rest is absolutely stunning,

Sorry about the long post but any thoughts (guitarman?)....

Thanks for everyone who posted advise and experience on this thread, keep it going......

BTW so far in my experience, the only film you don't want to touch is PRIEST 3D and when watching 3D keep your glasses flat/perpendicular to the screen if you look up too much color tint changes and, with extreme up angle some minor ghosting appears (for those who think they have seen any ghosting on this unit (if any ghosting, it is like looking for a needle in a haystack)
post #4777 of 5304
I've started trying to install my new HD33 projector and ran into a problem.

I've used the projector calculator tool offered on Optoma's website. For a 106in diagonal screen, they recommend that I be around 12.7 feet from the screen, and for a mount ceiling, aim for 8.4in from the top of the screen.

I was ready to install the mount and the projector, but thought I would fire it up and see where the image lands on the screen at that distance before drilling the holes for the mount on the ceiling. I was surprised to see that the image didn't cover the whole screen. I was using the "grid" mode and also tried changing the default background color to be white (I don't have any sources hooked up yet). I just couldn't fill the screen at 12.7 feet distance, it was just not possible. I had to take it back to at least 14 feet to be able to fill it all with the zoom, and I could take it back as far as 15.6 feet to fill the screen without zooming.

So i'm a bit lost. What have I missed here? My screen really has a diagonal of 106", the box said so, and my measurements confirmed it!
post #4778 of 5304
Did you use the zoom wheel on the projector? By the sound of it you just need to use that to dial in the right size. It's the wheel surrounding the lens.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ebdury View Post

I've started trying to install my new HD33 projector and ran into a problem....

Edited by Duane T - 8/24/12 at 11:44am
post #4779 of 5304
I would also check your format and make shure your not on 4:3 that would make picture smaller. My HD33 is at about 12.5' and screen is 110" and I have to use max zoom
post #4780 of 5304
I've played with the zoom (I had to take it back to at least 14 feet to be able to fill it all with the zoom, and I could take it back as far as 15.6 feet to fill the screen without zooming.)

I have no source hooked up yet as I haven't really installed it yet, so I couldn't play with the 4:3 or 16:9 settings (I think those options only become available when you've got a source selected). I guess i'll hook up a HD source and see if it changes anything VS just setting the basic background to white or use the grid mode.
post #4781 of 5304
Re: 1080i to 1080p

I've searched the forum and the manual to find out how to have my HD33 display a 1080i satellite signal as 1080p without success. Thanks for your help.
post #4782 of 5304
Quote:
Originally Posted by tubeheadEL34 View Post

Re: 1080i to 1080p
I've searched the forum and the manual to find out how to have my HD33 display a 1080i satellite signal as 1080p without success. Thanks for your help.

Its a digital display and it will always display at 1080p, regardless of what the source input is.

Thats why it only displays the input signal specs and that is probably why you are asking, thinking its displaying the ouptut specs when its actually displaying the input specs.

Your 1080i signal is being de-interlaced by the projector and displayed at 1080p.
post #4783 of 5304
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ebdury View Post

I've played with the zoom (I had to take it back to at least 14 feet to be able to fill it all with the zoom, and I could take it back as far as 15.6 feet to fill the screen without zooming.)
I have no source hooked up yet as I haven't really installed it yet, so I couldn't play with the 4:3 or 16:9 settings (I think those options only become available when you've got a source selected). I guess i'll hook up a HD source and see if it changes anything VS just setting the basic background to white or use the grid mode.

It will work, I use a 106" diag screen and my rooms only 13 feet 6 inhces wall to wall, plus the screen is 9" from the wall and the projector lens is 12" from the back wall. There's plenty of room to fill a 106 inch screen. You need a full HDTV image to line it up.
post #4784 of 5304
Hi Guys,

Just got my HD33 from B&H. Installed it with 120" width screen. Will post the picture soon.

I connected the HD33 to HTPC with 3D capability. I must say WOW. the 3D effects is amazing. Watched Avatar, Tangled. Almost can touch the object.

Why when running in 3D Mode, the image become smaller ? not full screen with some gap surround the picture ? Any idea ?

Using TMT5
post #4785 of 5304
Quote:
Originally Posted by yousafm View Post

I am just wondering that with this projector you do get pop out but it will be close to the screen giving you a nice affect but for those scene's where you want snow to fill your room for example it will not give you this reach and stays within the frame. I have checked the COD fish in IMAX under the sea and yes there is a lot more bulging out of the screen then other material but the reach is not as much as i have seen in some setups. Another example in MvAliens where the colonel is floating with a hover pack, on a Samsung c8000 55" he was floating close to the viewer slightly to the right of you, whereas for me on the HD33 he is slightly out of the screen but closer to the screen only slightly in front of it. As per call above Optoma clarified the projector is more about depth and it does not disappoint. I have tried various BR players including PS3 and recommended Panasonic ones but i get same consistent results with pop. Overall not a big deal as the rest is absolutely stunning,Sorry about the long post but any thoughts (guitarman?)....
Thanks for everyone who posted advise and experience on this thread, keep it going......
BTW so far in my experience, the only film you don't want to touch is PRIEST 3D and when watching 3D keep your glasses flat/perpendicular to the screen if you look up too much color tint changes and, with extreme up angle some minor ghosting appears (for those who think they have seen any ghosting on this unit (if any ghosting, it is like looking for a needle in a haystack)
I can also say... not much pop, beautiful depth, but missing the "pop" as seen by some LG fpr pannels, but I know this is not a valid comparison as technology is totally different. The other day I just had to try out those passive glasses in an LG showroom, there was a demo "fencing" scene where I almost stepped to the side when it felt that the sword's tip came real close. Maybe the all new RF glasses will give a better 3D effect, has anyone tried them?

One other thing, is there a way to limit the rainbow (RBE) effect? Did not had it at first but now I have it real bad, my wife's the lucky one not to suffer from it.
Edited by getset01 - 8/28/12 at 5:58am
post #4786 of 5304
Quote:
Originally Posted by ebdury View Post

I've started trying to install my new HD33 projector and ran into a problem.
I've used the projector calculator tool offered on Optoma's website. For a 106in diagonal screen, they recommend that I be around 12.7 feet from the screen, and for a mount ceiling, aim for 8.4in from the top of the screen.
I was ready to install the mount and the projector, but thought I would fire it up and see where the image lands on the screen at that distance before drilling the holes for the mount on the ceiling. I was surprised to see that the image didn't cover the whole screen. I was using the "grid" mode and also tried changing the default background color to be white (I don't have any sources hooked up yet). I just couldn't fill the screen at 12.7 feet distance, it was just not possible. I had to take it back to at least 14 feet to be able to fill it all with the zoom, and I could take it back as far as 15.6 feet to fill the screen without zooming.
So i'm a bit lost. What have I missed here? My screen really has a diagonal of 106", the box said so, and my measurements confirmed it!
Not sure if this might help in your case, but this helped me. In the setup menu, check that the mask is set to 0, factory default it's set to 1 and not sure why. I gained some picture setting the mask to 0. I suppose it compensates for when the source is smaller than the actual display, so when you set your projector & screen and get it perfectly aligned and filled, the mask helps then to always display a perfect horisontally filled screen I suppose.
Edited by getset01 - 8/28/12 at 11:37pm
post #4787 of 5304
My installation

1. 120" Width, ~135 " Inch Diagonal
2. Connected to HTPC, using Monoprice 40 Feet Active Redmere cables.


IMG-20120828-00786.jpg 150k .jpg file

IMG-20120828-00787.jpg 192k .jpg file
post #4788 of 5304
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmbk View Post

My installation
1. 120" Width, ~135 " Inch Diagonal
2. Connected to HTPC, using Monoprice 40 Feet Active Redmere cables.
IMG-20120828-00786.jpg 150k .jpg file
IMG-20120828-00787.jpg 192k .jpg file


That's wild how far your screen comes down and how it's all white.
post #4789 of 5304
The screen is motorised 10 feet x 10 feet, need to bring down from celling, so still have many unused space on screen, no choice

It's matte white screen.
post #4790 of 5304
Hello, I'm hoping someone can help me out. My problem is with hd33 and anamorphic lens I read about people having some ghosting issues well not me stretching a 3d image and using the lens looks awesome till theres alot of action or motion on screen then it's hard to explain it just doesn't look right,almost like its left and right eye info is switched but it's not cause when theres not much going on in the pictures the 3d is awesome. I was wondering if this is one of the problems that c04 fixes I have c03. If I don't use the hd33 to stretch the image and I use my oppo everything is awesome only problem is oppo won't stretch every disc some stretch some don't, so wondering if I should send it in for update. I wish the oppo was able to stretch everything. Thanks Jim
post #4791 of 5304
HD33 + RBE

I have about 152 hrs on my HD33. It just keeps getting better and better. RBE diminishes with time.

Funny Story, Recently I have been a little concerned at the sharpness and clarity of the HD33 when wearing my prescription glasses. Also found out I need bifocals, so
I went to the eye doctor and He said My vision has degraded. He strengthened my prescription. That night watched Lord of the Rings again and WOW. Absolutely crisp and detailed.

Loving the HD33.
post #4792 of 5304
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoySauceWDF View Post

I too want to know about the 4:4:4. A more pressing issue I have is the playback of 24hz blu-rays. If I set my player to playback 24p, I assume the HD33 plays it back at a 5:5 cadence. This looks very strange to me, almost between standard 3:2 pulldown and Frame Interpolation. Is it just me and I need to get used to it? Or is it not displaying the content properly.

SoysauceWDF the hd33 has a very annoying bug where puremotion does not always stay off. I first noticed this in 24hz 3d but did not know what it was until another memeber oleus figured out what was going on http://www.avsforum.com/t/1354360/new-optoma-hd33-hd3300-1080p-3d-projector-review/3510 . Try turning puremotion on and off again when you start watching 24p content. Seems to fix the issue but you have do it every time you switch to 24p.
post #4793 of 5304
Quote:
Originally Posted by Space Ninja View Post

SoysauceWDF the hd33 has a very annoying bug where puremotion does not always stay off. I first noticed this in 24hz 3d but did not know what it was until another memeber oleus figured out what was going on http://www.avsforum.com/t/1354360/new-optoma-hd33-hd3300-1080p-3d-projector-review/3510 . Try turning puremotion on and off again when you start watching 24p content. Seems to fix the issue but you have do it every time you switch to 24p.

The method I found to work here is allowing the projector handle all scaling. I have set my blu ray player to video direct & my directv box to output 1080i only. Once I made those changes...i have never seen this issue again. This may not be everyone's cup of tea but it solved the big problem & I have found the projector to produce an acceptable picture using this method.
post #4794 of 5304
So I'm trying to adjust my projector to the recommended settings posted here and for the life of me I cannot find some of the settings. Does that mean I have a very old firmware projector even though I just got it on Amazon? The settings I can't find are in bold:


HDMI 2D
Contrast -18
Brightness -2
Sharp 11
Color 15
Tint 0

Advanced
Gamma Film
R gain -5
G gain 0
B gain -1
R bias -1
G bias 0
B bias 0
post #4795 of 5304
Quote:
Originally Posted by filipp2442 View Post

So I'm trying to adjust my projector to the recommended settings posted here and for the life of me I cannot find some of the settings. Does that mean I have a very old firmware projector even though I just got it on Amazon? The settings I can't find are in bold:
HDMI 2D
Contrast -18
Brightness -2
Sharp 11
Color 15
Tint 0

Advanced
Gamma Film
R gain -5
G gain 0
B gain -1
R bias -1
G bias 0
B bias 0

This has been answered a few times in this thread (I know its a long thread). Your source must be set to YCBCR not RGB for color and tint to show up, most Blu Ray players default to this. PS3 or HTPC default to RGB most of the time
post #4796 of 5304
Bought one of those $1093 HD33 specials from Amazon with Optoma RF glasses. smile.gif Love it, except for one flaw, locking up periodically in 3D mode from a Blu-ray disc. It doesn't lock up in 1080i 60 mode from DirecTV 3D content. It came with firmware C03. Guess I'll have to send it in to get it fixed.

Update 9/17/12 - Contacted customer service. Since 3D worked with DirecTV, it's not a 3D problem with the projector. I had used a 25' cable that's routed through the wall. The tech stated that 15' is the maximum hdmi cable length for 3D blu-ray. I bought a 12' cable and now it works perfectly.

FYI. I'm using a Denon AVR-2312CI receiver and a Panasonic DMP-BDT215P blu-ray player.
Edited by quandtj - 9/17/12 at 6:45pm
post #4797 of 5304
I have noticed one operational band-aid. When switching from 3D to 2D, the projector sits there displaying "Searching". If you send the command from the remote for that port, it speeds up the switching process, i.e mine is connected to HDMI1, I press the HDMI1 button on the remote gets it to sync up faster.

Update 9/17/12 - Since installing a 12' hdmi cable, it switches automatically without having to do anything special.
Edited by quandtj - 9/17/12 at 6:46pm
post #4798 of 5304
Quote:
Originally Posted by rekbones View Post

This has been answered a few times in this thread (I know its a long thread). Your source must be set to YCBCR not RGB for color and tint to show up, most Blu Ray players default to this. PS3 or HTPC default to RGB most of the time

I have the HD33 Firmware C04

I switched the setting on my PS3 to YCBCR and color & tint still does not show up on the menu... any suggestions?

The color & tint settings are there when in 3D mode though....

Can I still use the calibration settings without TINT & COLOR and get a proper picture?

Love the projector by the way!!! =)
post #4799 of 5304
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmbk View Post

The screen is motorised 10 feet x 10 feet, need to bring down from celling, so still have many unused space on screen, no choice
It's matte white screen.

Interesting. If you followed projectors for as long as I have, you'd find that the way your screen is (with the large white area above) will be VERY detrimental to your perceived contrast. That white area is a giant reflector that will tend to make everything you watch look all washed out.

You could try to devise some black cloth that can be put above the screen to cover the white. I'd recommend fabric with snaps if you are able to do it. Otherwise, there are several companies that will do your screen with a custom "drop" and that upper part is matte black.
post #4800 of 5304
Here is a one year update on my 3300.


I have had my projector installed for roughly a year now. I spent some time this long weekend checking calibration, etc. Looks like I am still at the same calibration with 800 hours on the projector. I am still using the ND filter for 2D and managed to devise a way to quickly pull it up out of the way for 3D. I am also still using the matte gray screen (.8 gain) in place of my 1.0 matte white and I am pleased to report that I NO LONGER HAVE RBE ISSUES. In fact, I will notice a rainbow only once in a while now and almost always at the end credits. So, take it from someone who is highly sensitive: "It gets much better!"

Having not had a DLP PJ since 2003 (due to RBE), I am still blown away by this projector and can't see upgrading for quite some time. Given current prices, I would run to get one of these if I had it to do over again. The 3D is just a plus (that we really don't take advantage of often enough as we have no 3D cable channels yet) and I would still recommend this projector for 2D only.

One issue though is that now that I have a 4-D setup (I also added a Buttkicker setup last year), more "friends" invite themselves over and ask to watch movies.
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