New Optoma HD33 HD3300 1080p 3D Projector Review - Page 165

I would check the fourms on the Onkyo and make shure it doesn,t need a firmware update to pass 3D (some say they are 3D capable but aren,t that way out of the box). Don't know what video card you have but took me a month to get my HTPC to play 3D blu ray with PowerDVD ( never could get TMT5 to run). Check for the correct drivers 3D setup of video card and some other PC drivers could be causing the problem. As for the PS3 its a different animal then any other 3D blu ray player it can be odd when detecting the 3D display. Connect it to the HD33 directly do the Video setup and then connect it to the receiver and don't do the video setup again and it should remember its a 3D display.

How bad is the RBE on the HD33? Is it a 6x colour wheel all the time, or only @ 120hz ? If you drop to 1920@60hz or 24hz will RBE show up more easily?

I didnt realize there were so many settings and tabs to fiddle with. After a couple hours of tinkering today, my theater is featuring AMAZING 3D. Looks better than the movie theaters. The depth of it is just mind blowing, it almost looks like I can climb into my 100" screen. So for those who think 1.4 cables are a must... They are very wrong.

Just saw this post..

http://3dvision-blog.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=2252

Is this true, or is it some settings that are responsible? If this is the case then I might have to look for another projector
Lag in 3d gaming would be a real shame.

Also I was wondering, as I am using my pc to play everything, will the audio go out of sync in 3d mode @ 1080p due to lag, as I will be using my creative x-f through my 7.1 surround speakers for sound?
Edited by MarcusarilliuS - 11/22/12 at 3:34pm

I've played hrs and hrs of gaming in 3D on both ps3 and a PC running an AMD 6970 via TriDef, direct from a HDMI connection and I can tell you that the display lag on this machine is so minimal to be unnoticeable. I remember when searching for a PJ with the explicit purpose of 3D gaming that this was something that I looked at specifically and ended up ruling out the current batch of Epson's because of it. The figures those guys are quoting of 100-300ms lag are complete rubbish, or rather if true are being contributed by something outside of the projector. Let me put your mind at ease right now the HD33 is a pleasure to game with in s3D.

Phew

Was wondering for 3d gaming performace? Is there any difference between using the rf glasses with the pj, or buying the nvidia kit?
If you had the nvidia kit would you be able to do the 3d processing on the PC rather than the pj, or is the 3d done on the pj regardless?

Also, regarding my other question, should I have any issue with audio sync with playing the audio from the x-fi through my 7.1 speakers, or could it go out of sync for some content 2d or 3d?

Was just wondering how the HD33 compares to the mitsubishi HC7800D?
Edited by MarcusarilliuS - 11/24/12 at 3:56am

Does the optoma HD33 support ARC via one of the HDMI inputs? If I connect a game console to one of the HDMI inputs will I be able to use the other input to transfer back the audio to the AVR. The reason I don't want to plug a game console directly to the AVR is to avoid input lag issues.

Does anyone have any info on some possible "Cyber Monday" deals for the Optoma HD33? The lowest I came across today ("Black Friday") was $1,299.99 on Amazon. I've seen it as low as around $1,050 on Amazon in the past for a new unit (not a used or refurb). I would love to get myself one, new or used (slightly used, and in excellent working order) for around $1,000. I realize that may not happen, but any insight would be appreciated.

How do I go about starting the process for a firmware upgrade?? I have an original launch HD33 with a firmware version of C01. Ive read there is a hardware upgrade requirement to go from C01 to C02, so simply downloading a firmware and upgrading myself seems to be out of the question. Im overall happy with this projector, but the 3D settings do not save. I need to set this everytime I power on the projector...

Display --> 3D --> 3D Sync Invert --> Yes

It seems to revert to "No" as default after the projector is turned off.

Is this a known issue for C01 and is it fixed with the latest firmware??

If you are playing 3D games on the projector, you will have to be using glasses that sync with the projector itself. If you have a nvidia video card in your PC, you will probably need to purchase 3DTV play to let you run 3D games on the projector, note that you will be limited to the HDMI limitation of 720p at 60Hz or 1080p at 24Hz. If you are using an AMD card you should be able to get games working with Tridef. Tridef can also be used on Nvidia cards in my experience but you still have to sometimes have 3DTV play for some reason. Tridef will give you some more options like SBS and TOP/Bottom 3D that will let you run "1080p" at 60Hz for 3D but it is actually only half the width because of the nature of SBS 3D.

I got around having to always change this setting by adjusting the polarity on the 3D emitter until it looks proper without changing that setting. Here is a link that should help to do that: http://www.optoma.co.uk/uploads/manuals/3D-RF%20Glasses-M-en-GB.pdf

Note that I had to do it by using the manual performance tuning as the set polarity option did not stick for me.
Edited by reechings - 11/27/12 at 11:21am

I got 4 sets of 3d glasses shipped in finally, but I'm running into issues. Basically it doesn't look very 3D on most content. I haven't tried an actual 3D bluray yet, mostly just SBS blyray rips and a 3D game.

Problem is, I don't know whether to invert the 3D frames or not. Both ways sort of look correct.

Another issue, I have some depth with the content, but stuff doesn't pop out like it should. Harold and Kumar 3D doesn't jump out of the screen like it should.

The 3D effect is there for sure, just not much depth or pop out on obvious scenes where it should pop out.

I'm using dlp link mode, screen is 106" and viewing distance is 9'.

Thanks. I assume you mean 720p @ 60fps per eye?

Another thing I was reading, some folks were mentioning that if you are prone to motion sickness DLP projectors can make you feel ill. Any truth in that, as I can be prone to getting car sick?

Yeah I mean 60 fps per eye. As for motion sickness I'm not sure, I'm not inclined towards it and haven't had any issues. I have also had multiple people watch 3D on the system with no problems. I would recommend that you purchase the unit from somewhere with a good return policy (I got mine from costco) to cover your bases just in case.

Yea the place I was going to get it form said I could return within 7 days for full refund.

so I have read that DLP Link is better then IR and RF, I havent been able to find direct comparrisons or a list of pros and cons for each so Im looking for peoples opinions, as for DLP Link I heard Optomas ZD201 are the best and next to that is True Depth 3d rechargables which for almost the same price as Optomas you can get two of those. So yeah looking for more feedback trying to get this all worked out so I know how much Im spending and what to get by the time I get this projector.

I'm partial to motion sickness. I get it a bit playing games that run at 60fps, but no issues with movies or 3d movies.

Only on projectors, on a big screen, or in general even on small monitor?

Xpand has a new DLP link glasses coming out soon that take standard batteries instead of thier propitiatory ones.
http://www.xpand.me/products/xpand-edux-3-3d-glasses/

I only get sick playing doom 3 and Rage on the projector. Both run at 60fps and both are id games.

Is there a max number of RF glasses that can be used with the emitter? It's probably a dumb question but I haven't been able to find the answer.

Was wondering for 100" screen will I be able to get away with grey screen instead of white to get extra contrast and better blacks without loosing too much light output?
Also will a grey screen help minimize RBE?

I believe it's four.

Thanks Wesley, I looked all over and couldn't find it anywhere.

From the monster manual.
4.4.2 Multiple Eyewear Units
Multiple Eyewear units can be paired to a signal transmitter allowing for 3D viewing by more
than 1 person. The number of Eyewear units that a can pair with a transmitter with is unlimited.
http://www.monsterproducts.com/lit/Max_3D_manual.pdf

Actually, I may have read that on this or another forum. I only remember the number because I thought to myself "ok, good that is enough for me".

Looking through datasheets, user guides and quick start guides (there are many) of Optoma, MonsterVision and their source Bit Cauldron: I couldn't find mention of a limit. There is a list within the transmitter that can get full and is emptied with a reset. It remembers the pairs it has synced with.

On the Amazon's product page for the MonsterVision Max 3D Eyewear System (with transmitter), under Product Features it lists "Transmitter can expand to thousands of pairs of MonsterVision glasses."

So I should say 4 OR MORE? Either way, I'm sure the list of paired glasses is only limited by the amount of flash memory it can access.
Edited by Wesley Hester - 12/6/12 at 11:00am

Thanks DenisG and Wesley. I completely forgot about it coming from Monster.

With friends and family coming into town for Christmas I thought I'd pick up a few more pair.

I dont think there is any real pairing going on, its an RF signal radiating from the source, and whatever is in the area to pick it up will, its not a secure or encrypted connection like wifi or bluetooth, so I would image the only limitation would be the signal strength being broadcasted.

Yeah, that's what I figured but it would be just my luck to pick up more pairs and find out I reached some maximum.

I've used my share of glasses with this projector and found the Optoma 101s to be the best over a year ago. What's the latest thinking, especially for more letting more light in, no color shifting, etc.--and of course low cost?

Each pair goes through a first time sync (transmitter flashes one red LED), not sure what it's doing. Although, the user guides mention how to put the transmitter and glasses into what they call "pairing mode". Also, there is still the "list" that can be cleared with a reset.
I've personally never had to force a pairing: the two pair I have (one Optoma, and one Monster) just started working automatically. Of course now, after the first time, they work right away.