New Optoma HD33 HD3300 1080p 3D Projector Review - Page 166

I think when they say pairing they are using it in a idiot proof way to make people who are not tech savy know what they are talking about, a sorta simple commonly heard word in this case as pairing allows anyone of any IQ level have an idea of whats going on. Pairing could be their way of talking about syncing, its possible that the RF glasses could be sending back an ID in which case the projector itself may have a certain memory limit of how many IDs it can hold, so if thats the case then yeah there could be a limited number that can link but I still feel that limited number is probably be higher then anyone with that type of projector would have at one time in one room.

That's the hope. Also, syncing or pairing as they call does not have to mean secured in any way: no real reason to.

Side question why is a 2.35 screen so much more expensive then a 16:9 when its for the most part still the same amount of material being used just wider?

Edit: somehow it double posted...

When I asked here about the limit on RF glasses I also asked Optoma Canada and just got a reply last night. Here's their reply: "I am told the limit would be 99 pairs of RF glasses per emitter."

Per Emitter so then it is more of a signal strength limitation then it is a connection limitation which is what I figured but this is certainly good to know.

Hi. I'm having issues trying to get my 3d glasses to work with the projector. I have the optoma hd33 projector and bought 2 pairs of http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008PQJXFO/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00 .

I have the emitter hooked up. PS3 for 3d playback device and 1.4 hdmi cables and 1.4 receiver. I'm having issues with getting the glasses to kick on or sync. I get the 3d " blurred " image to show on the screen and the emitter shows 5 full bars, but when i turn on the glasses the led will blink like they're on but they never get that activer shutter flash.

I've tried using the joystick method on the emitter and trying to sync them but have had no luck with either pair . Any advice/tips would be appreciated.

Thanks

Did you put the glasses in pairing mode too? Hope you get them working because I'm interested in these glasses also.

Pairing to an emitter
With the device [the glasses] off [and the emitter in pairing mode], press and hold the power button. After 1-2 seconds the red LED will come on. (Normally, you would release
the button at this point to power on the glasses.) Do not release the button after the red LED comes on, keep holding down the
button. After about 10 seconds of the LED on solid the LED will start to pulse with the same “heartbeat” pattern used by the
emitter in pairing mode. (When you see the heartbeat pattern, you must release the button within 10 seconds or the device will
go into Restore Factory Defaults mode.)
The glasses will stay in pairing mode until they successfully pair with an emitter, or until one minute expires. While in pairing
mode, the LED will display the “heartbeat” pattern. If the glasses find an emitter in pairing mode, then the glasses will pair with
the emitter and resume normal operation as described in Error! Reference source not found.. If an emitter is not found in pairing
mode, the glasses will not operate but will continue to display the “heartbeat” pattern until the emitter is placed into pairing
mode, at which point the glasses will pair and begin normal operating mode immediately. If the emitter is not placed in pairing
mode, the glasses will stay in pairing mode for one minute and then will power down.

So, the HDMI handshake takes so long that I cant set a resolution on my boxee box, because the "Confirm Changes" test timer counts down and away before this projector can display an image.

Is there a way to speed up the handshake/searching/resolution change ? It can take up to 12 seconds.

Yea, i've tried putting both the emitter and glasses in sync mode with no luck.

I don't know how to speed it up but can confirm that the HD33 takes longer than my Mit's 92". I currently have them both connected to my Onkyo receiver with dual HDMI outputs and the HD33 always comes in second. I had to finally give up on wireless HDMI to the projector because it caused handshake issues with it: had to break down and run a Monoprice 40ft Ultra Slim Series High Performance HDMI Cable w/ RedMere Technology instead.

I'm using the 30' Redmere cable. I've wondered if that could also cause an issue since its not really standard spec.

The cable is faster than wireless I was trialing when switching back and forth between 2D and 3D. I don't have a long enough "regular" high speed cable to compare. I just know my HDTV is quicker.

I'm having an issue with 3D content.

Setup is

XMBC or Boxee Box HDMI to Onkyo TH nr818 receiver HDMI to Optima HD33 projector

When I play a 3d bluray from my Sony player, it works fine. 3d image is perfect.

When I play 3d games from the Xbox, 3d also looks good.

I assume both scenarios above use sequencial type 3d?

If I try to watch any 3D bluray rip, in Half Side by Side, its unwatchable, and reversing the frames via the projector menu make it even worse.

Basically side by side makes everything out of focus, motion is really weird, and it feels like my eyes are crossed.

Also any scene cuts which aren't a fade I can see change from right eye to left eye.

Is this a common issue ? Am I missing a step via Boxee box and xbmc ?

With the Xbox and bluray player, the projector automatically changes to 3d mode.

With the SBS stuff, I go into the projector menu and choose SBS. It then goes to 3D mode.

Well I decided that although the HD33 is great value, Im just going to save up a bit more and go for the Panasonic AE8000U but I still plan to follow this thread as a lot of good info has come out of it for learning purposes ^_^ best of luck to those who own the projector, hope you love it

Try VLC media player. Works for me on my 5360 Acer.

I see some people asking questions brought up much earlier in this thread so I thought I would give my overall impression of owning a 3300 for over a year now.

For those of you who have asked about do-it-yourself firmware updates , it doesn't seem possible. There is a pc based firmware flasher they provide via email , but no one has been able to get it to work (Optoma claims it's user error).

I was having terrible lockup issues with my onkyo receiver , which have been 90% diminished with CO4 update after sending it in to Optoma.

And also beware - my pristine looking black hd3300 came back looking pretty scuffed up. So you might want to ship a soft towel with your unit and a $20 incentive tip with a nice note to the technician if your unit is nice shape and you want/need a firmware update.

And for those asking about glasses , I've owned the Optoma rf's and multiple types of dlp links an I've found the most consistent and accurate 3d has been with the somewhat bulky Optoma Dlp links. The rf's had a little but of buzzing and an inconsistent ghosting issue if you sat back at an angle. And every single type of dlp link I tried had tint issues until I settled on the Optoma dlp's. I use them a ton and I am still on the original batteries.

Other than the occasional lockup and customer service issues I would highly recommend the 3300. It's very quiet , great 2d and 3d image quality , tons of settings to customize to your liking . I'm watching on a 120" screen and use it for bluray , htpc, 2d and 3d gaming via Xbox and ps3 and with 1000 hours on the Bulb it is still plenty bright. I use high output mode for 3d.

Which DLP ones are they, the ZD201's? Was the buzzing present on all the RF ones? Don't all DLP ones add some tint due to how they sync?

Yes, the ZD201s. There is a red tint to the DLP link picture itself for the sync flash, but that is well offset by the glasses and you won't see any tinting issues. After owning so many different 3d glasses these are the ones I'm sticking with. I preferred the design of the RF's but I love the ZD201's performance. Every other DLP link i tried from amazon/ebay had a green-to-red tint from lens to lens that was really annoying. No such effect with the Optomas.

The RF glasses had different levels of buzzing. One pair was louder than the other. And once i noticed it - it was very hard to tune out. I also didn't like how if I leaned back in my theater chairs, ghosting and crosstalk started happening if the glasses were at a certain angle to the screen.

Also, with the DLP links, no emitter is necessary.

The design of the ZD201's will not be to everyone's liking, but picture quality is great. And like I said, I use them heavily and still haven't had to replace either pair's battery (it's a watch-type battery).

Cheers for the info mate.

Regarding the DLP glasses, how do they sync? if you turn your head do they loose sync? Also is there a limit to the number of pairs?

Also read someone say that the ZD201's cause more eyestrain than the RF ones? and can loose sync in bright scenes?

Wanted to sort all this out tonight as I will be ordering the HD33 tomorrow. Have been waiting for a refund form my last tv to come through and it will be through to my credit card in the morning so all set to buy
Edited by MarcusarilliuS - 12/9/12 at 12:51pm

The issue you are describing is an HD33 software glitch when using the projector's SBS mode with 1080p/24 content. The Side by Side mode works fine with 1080i or 1080p/60, (1080p/60 is when the Blu player sends the 1080p/24fps as 1080p/60fps with progressive 3-2 pulldown.

My current "fix" is to set the 3-D bluray player so it only outputs 1080p/60. Don't worry about official (MVC encoded) 3-D Bluray discs, as they will still play out as 1080p/24. They have to, as it is the current limit of HDMI 1.4 specs. But standard 2D blurays (including SBS encoded discs) can be made to output as 1080p/60. The phasing issue you are describing should then go away.

I just noticed this last week and will be calling Optoma.

-Greg

3D Film Archive
http://www.3dfilmarchive.com/

Hey thanks a bunch for the info. I do remember having it work perfectly, sometimes I use the htpc and sometimes I use the Boxee box.

If I'm viewing 23.xxxfps/24fps content but outputting at 60hz, the issue should go away ? Could you please let me know what optima says regarding this once you hear back from them ?

For now I will set output to 60hz.

Just want to get the word out on an issue. As im told, the ONLY reason any HDMI display will not output 1080p at 120hz is because there is a bandwidth limitation in the current 224mhz HDMI 1.4a port processor -the chip which receives the signal video signal. 300mhz is all that is needed and yet they have been available for over a year now. The 224mhz chips are $4 -5 dollars, the 300mhz chips are only $6.75. If this frustrates you like it does me, give your display maker and call and inquire.

300mhz HDMI port processor: http://www.semiconductorstore.com/cart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=47215

Never had it lose sync while watching the screen. If you look away for a few seconds it will lose sync but once you look back it will immediately sync back. this is actually helpful if you need to get up for a minute, it will get brighter to see through when it un-syncs.

Never had an eye strain issue, like i did with other DLP Links I tried. Word of warning, they aren't the most comfortable but they break in and become less annoying.

Not sure about the number of pairs.

Ok mate, cheers for the help. Might go for these over the RF ones so.

Alright cool, let us know what you think when you've tried them.

As it's my first projector I am just hoping I am not one of those that sees RBE or gets motion sick form the screen being too big
It will be 100" screen and I will be about 8 feet from it.
I know folks here have said it performs well regarding lag so fingers crossed on that as it will be used as pc monitor for gaming etc. and I just hope when I put it in to 3d mode for gaming it doesn't introduce lag.

I saw RBE on my first DLP (infocus 7200) - i never see them with the HD3300.

I saw a few when I first got a Mitsubishi RPTV (rest in peace) with a wheel. Now can't remember the last time I've seen any.

Haven't seen any on the HD33 so far.
Edited by Wesley Hester - 12/9/12 at 7:37pm

From what I've gathered from the manual, you are correct about sources than automatically switch and those you have to enable SBS manually. However, I don't know why it isn't looking "good". DirecTV uses SBS 1080i and the projector automatically switches: doesn't look as crisp or sharp as Blu-ray though.