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New Optoma HD33 HD3300 1080p 3D Projector Review - Page 169

post #5041 of 5304
I am brand new to AVS. I have, though, been reading a ton of info on these forums and trying to learn all that I can. A person could spend the rest of their life reading this stuff. I bought the HD33 for my kids for xmas. However, we need to get a AV receiver and speakers but not sure what direction to go. I assume these are necessary since there is no audio on the projector. What recommendations do any of you have for a basic but good setup? Nothing too expensive. Also, do I need a 3d receiver to watch 3d movies? I can't wait until I get this thing up and going and neither can my kids. Any help or advice any one can give would be most appreciative.
post #5042 of 5304
Projector settings would depend very much on protection room you have. Wall and ceiling colors, surface reflectivity and ambient light. Recommended brightness and contrast settings for one setup may be wrong for the other.
post #5043 of 5304
Quote:
Originally Posted by futurecode View Post

If the main source you're calibrating is your PC with the Nvidia cards, go into the Nvidia control panel > adjust desktop color settings > digital color format > and change it from RGB to YCbCr444 . It'll make a work of difference.

But if I am using a HDMI cable should I still set this?

I also have HDMI range set to 0-255, is this ok?

What exactly does the YCbCr444 setting do?
post #5044 of 5304
Quote:
Originally Posted by bdj5773 View Post

Also, do I need a 3d receiver to watch 3d movies? I can't wait until I get this thing up and going and neither can my kids. Any help or advice any one can give would be most appreciative.

Like you I purchased HD33 just before Christmas and spend few days settings it up. I focused just on visual side of the setup. I hooked up projector directly to newly purchased Panasonic BD player DMP-BDT500 using hdmi. I also purchased pair of Optoma IR RF glasses ZF2100GLS for 3D movies. Setting up all pieces was fairly easy so my family could enjoy 3d same evening setup was done.

As far as it goes to receiver, with various range of fairly priced models choosing the right one should not be hard. Couple things that 3D projector user may find necessary is selecting receiver with 1.4a compatible hdmi inputs/outputs which is necessary to properly passthrough 3D video. Second is to make sure receiver has two hdmi outputs. This way projector and HDTV both can be connected to receiver without using external hdmi splitter.
Alternatively a single 1.4a hdmi compatible output receiver is also ok with dual hdmi output BluRay player like in my case where my optoma projector is connected directly to one of two hdmi outputs of Panasonic player while second player hdmi output feeds receiver or HDTV.
Edited by esdwa - 12/25/12 at 10:25am
post #5045 of 5304
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcusarilliuS View Post

But if I am using a HDMI cable should I still set this?
I also have HDMI range set to 0-255, is this ok?
What exactly does the YCbCr444 setting do?

Is just another digital output option, hdmi or not it's fine.

I don't know the technical side of what YCbCr444 does, I've read stuff here and there, never really getting concrete info. Most of what I've read says YCbCr444 and rgb are essentially the same (with YCbCr444 having a slight advantage with a few things). In the end this is just an "eyeball preference" on my end. With the slightly modified settings guitarman has on page on, rgb just looks to flat, matte and washed out. For me, On YCbCr444 those same settings shine.
post #5046 of 5304
Thanks for the response. My kids are wanting to get this projector up and running soon. And so do I biggrin.gif
There is so much to choose from it is hard to know what to get. Plus, I'm a newb at this. I just looking for a decent setup -- a receiver, speakers, and 3D blue ray player....
post #5047 of 5304
bdj5773
If you choose direct blu ray player to projector hdmi connection like I mentioned at the end of my last post above then you do not need 3d compatible receiver. Good luck with your setup.
post #5048 of 5304
Quote:
Originally Posted by esdwa View Post

bdj5773
If you choose direct blu ray player to projector hdmi connection like I mentioned at the end of my last post above then you do not need 3d compatible receiver. Good luck with your setup.

Yeah, could do that. But would still need speakers, right? Would I need a receiver to handle the audio??
post #5049 of 5304
Yes, you still need that receiver to handle audio. And speakers of course. There are plenty to choose from for any budget. Try not to get sold receivers that are advertized as on sale, these usually do not handle 3D passthrough and they are not real deals after all with newest models being within the same price range. Basically try to get latest within your budget and remember to leave cash for speakers. These usually should cost as much as receiver or more (5+sub). Selecting good receiver with poor speaker setup is not a good idea so choose carefully and look for deals on line from recognized brands.
post #5050 of 5304
Awesome. Thanks for the advice. I did get it up and running by connecting the computer via VGA and audio through some decent speakers connected directly to the computer. The room was totally dark and the picture without even having tuned it and with a cheap and fairly small 4:3 screen looked really good. I can't imagine what true HD will look like. Can't wait to get a bigger screen and HD up and going.
post #5051 of 5304
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcusarilliuS View Post

1080p 3d for gaming of course is completely unusable as it's 24hz and the lag is awful, but saying that who would really game @ only 24fps anyways??
Seeing some RBE in 2d. Enough to distract me at times and other times I might see it very rarely.
How do people that use Play 3 and Xbox running at 1080 3d??
The frames aren't 24 fps in that way?
post #5052 of 5304
The 3D from my Xbox and PS3 games is 720p 3D 60Hz I believe.
Edited by Wesley Hester - 12/28/12 at 4:55am
post #5053 of 5304
My Optoma reports 1080p24 while playing 3D blu ray disc in 3D mode with Panasonic dmp-bdt500.
post #5054 of 5304
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rew452 View Post

Presuming all of your geometry is right on your install, it would suggest a misalignment in the DLP light engine.
If it's new get it replaced.
Rew

So my replacement projector arrived today and I found same problem in this one as well. Slight barrel distortion on bottom picture edge while top edge show small pincushion distortion. I am talking about half inch vertically off in the center of top/bottom edge in 100 inches width. Its not big but clearly visible when trying to adjust pj distance and zoom.
I took out my other HD23 again and checked again on same screen and test pattern is perfectly rectangular shape. On both HD33's is not.

I am not sure what to think about it but I wonder if any of users here see similar distortion when projecting test pattern.

Anybody else care to check and let know?
post #5055 of 5304
Quote:
Originally Posted by esdwa View Post

So my replacement projector arrived today and I found same problem in this one as well. Slight barrel distortion on bottom picture edge while top edge show small pincushion distortion. I am talking about half inch vertically off in the center of top/bottom edge in 100 inches width. Its not big but clearly visible when trying to adjust pj distance and zoom.
I took out my other HD23 again and checked again on same screen and test pattern is perfectly rectangular shape. On both HD33's is not.
I am not sure what to think about it but I wonder if any of users here see similar distortion when projecting test pattern.
Anybody else care to check and let know?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyabusha View Post

So I've come to the conclusion that my HD33's geometry Is off. The top left, top right, and bottom left are fine. Perfectly lining up with my screen.
It's the bottom right, the image skews downward below the bottom left edge. And I've measured and lined up the projector and screen perfectly level.
I've already paid for a professorial calibration. So my question Is, do I risk not getting back my original HD33 back and loose the settings, be without my projector for two weeks, or just live with the slightly not straight image line at the bottom right edge.
Thanks

I'm just going to live with It. No one notices It when they see the screen until I show them where It Is. Everything I do, watch, plug In works perfectly with this projector, and I would hate to risk getting a different one back after I send It In. So I'm good.

Enjoy!
post #5056 of 5304
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyabusha View Post

I'm just going to live with It [...]

Thanks for confirmation. It seems like optics design issue. I agree that this is something we can live with. Just interesting that $300 cheaper HD23 model has perfect picture geometry while HD33 does not.

*** Update: below illustration of the distortion I have observed in two HD33 units. Red line marks ideal rectangle. The picture shows exaggerated distortion just to illustrate this issue. In real it is much smaller; about 0.5% on top/bottom edges which makes picture edge 1/2 inch off the horizontal 100 inch axis I have with my screen .

Edited by esdwa - 12/28/12 at 10:38am
post #5057 of 5304
Hi guys,

First sorry for my english, I'm from France.

I've acquired an HD33 a month ago and I've already had it exchanged twice. Here's the problem :
The left part of the screen is slightly (but visibly) dimmer than the right part. It's noticeable with a white pattern. With a black pattern, the left part is slightly reddish. It seems like I have a screen uniformity problem. My question is the following, is it normal ? Because if it's not I must be really unlucky to get the same problem on 3 different HD33.

What can I do to get an HD33 without theses issues, ask for a repair or keep exchanging it until I have a good one ?

Thanks.
post #5058 of 5304
I hate to ask for somethimg that could be already posted but I spent an hour trying to find a way to enter service menu on this projector without success.

Can anyone do me a big favor and share how can I enter service menu on HD33?
post #5059 of 5304
Scratch what I said about solving the audio sync issue with 24hz playback.
This is bugging the hell out of me at this stage.

Tried reclock and that hasn't helped.

The audio and video stay in sync @ 720p 60hz but in 1080p 24hz it's a nightmare. Constantly drifting out of sync.

This is only an issue in 3d mode as the 2d blurays will all play at 60hz even in 1080p

Dunno if this is lag caused by the 3d processing or something else. Maybe the difference between 24 and 23.976?

Any suggestions would be welcomed due to the fact that I can't watch 3d blurays due to this issue.

Cheers,

Mark.
post #5060 of 5304
Quote:
Yeah, could do that. But would still need speakers, right? Would I need a receiver to handle the audio

Despite the fact that you could get away with a non-3D receiver by going with a dual hdmi blu ray player, I wouldn't go that route. You may, down the road, get more than one 3D device (XBOX, Playstation 3) and you're hooped unless you get an HDMI switcher. Besides getting a 3D compatible receiver isn't that pricey. I would recommend the Onkyo TX NR515. It's pretty budget, yet does 100W per channel, 3D compatible, has two sub outputs (you may one day wish for more base, so you're futureproofing), and has 7 channel audio. Personally, I would get that, but then get a 5.1 speaker setup (you could eventually get a pair of bookshelf speakers to round out your system to a 7.1 or 7.2). Check out the speaker forum if you really want your head to explode - there are so many options. Whatever you do, don't get an all-in-one where the receiver and speakers are all as a set, unless, it is a dedicated receiver and separate speaker set (eg. Yamaha receiver + Paradigm speaker combo). Hope that helps and good luck with your setup.

PS - don't get suckered into buying expensive hdmi cables. Cheap as heck at Walmart - as long as it says high speed HDMI (Ion brand, I believe) you're good to go.
post #5061 of 5304
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spytek81 View Post

How do people that use Play 3 and Xbox running at 1080 3d??
The frames aren't 24 fps in that way?

First off I think that gaming in 3D on both of those platforms is 720p (and prob mostly 720P@30fps) as I find it hard to imagine that any of that ancient tech can push 1080p 3d, unless it's something like HL1 engine smile.gif, and secondly what do you mean by "The frames aren't 24 fps in that way?" ??
24fps is 24fps.
The bare min you could get away with is 30fps and that is for a small number of games, played with a controller.
For most games anything under 60fps and it starts to feel sluggish, especially when using a mouse/keyboard combo.
I can't play under 60fps in anything without feeling that.
post #5062 of 5304
I have tried my hd33 with Hoya ND2 filter and along with high lamp setting I got improved picture in 2D mode. Blacks are deeper and colors are not washed away anymore making me finally forgetting I am sitting in my living room. Picture is more theatre like not too bright just making my eyes feel comfy.

On difficulty with using filter with optoma is lack of thread in lens focus ring. Adapter would be helpful but so far I have not been able to find one that would match 77mm filter.
post #5063 of 5304
Would the image be too dark if you ran the lamp in standard mode?
Does it reduce RBE in 2D?
post #5064 of 5304
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcusarilliuS View Post

Scratch what I said about solving the audio sync issue with 24hz playback.
This is bugging the hell out of me at this stage.
Tried reclock and that hasn't helped.
The audio and video stay in sync @ 720p 60hz but in 1080p 24hz it's a nightmare. Constantly drifting out of sync.
This is only an issue in 3d mode as the 2d blurays will all play at 60hz even in 1080p
Dunno if this is lag caused by the 3d processing or something else. Maybe the difference between 24 and 23.976?
Any suggestions would be welcomed due to the fact that I can't watch 3d blurays due to this issue.
Cheers,
Mark.

Since I have an HD33 beaming from a 2600k/GTX 670 PC and have no audio sync issues I'd guess you either have a defect in on of your pieces of equipment in your chain or, most likely, it's an AVR issue (if you are using one). A lot of AVR's have some sort of processing on their end for upscaling or adjusting video/audio, this could be the issue (and the culprit with some of your other issues you've had in the past) if its does have this, just turn it all off or, you if all processing by your AVR is off/not offered, typically there is an option for adjusting audio delay inside the AVR.

What kind of AVR do you have or wha are you using for audio if not?
post #5065 of 5304
Quote:
Scratch what I said about solving the audio sync issue with 24hz playback.
This is bugging the hell out of me at this stage.
Tried reclock and that hasn't helped.
The audio and video stay in sync @ 720p 60hz but in 1080p 24hz it's a nightmare. Constantly drifting out of sync.
This is only an issue in 3d mode as the 2d blurays will all play at 60hz even in 1080p
Dunno if this is lag caused by the 3d processing or something else. Maybe the difference between 24 and 23.976?
Any suggestions would be welcomed due to the fact that I can't watch 3d blurays due to this issue.
Cheers,
Mark.

I have a Samsung BD D6700 3D blu ray player with dual hdmi outs. I have one going to my PJ, one to the AVR. No audio sync issues with 24Hz, so perhaps it is your AVR. If you're willing to try that route, it could be a relatively inexpensive solution. I'm sure there are other blu ray players that have dual hdmi, but I haven't looked into them.
post #5066 of 5304
Audio is from 7.1 speakers plugged straight into my x-fi titanium champion edition pci-e soundcard. Not using any receiver.

3D on this is so much more hassle than the passive tv I had beforehand. that just worked.
I have been jumping through hoops since I got this to get the bloody thing to work properly.

Granted it does look nice when it works.
Edited by MarcusarilliuS - 12/30/12 at 3:52pm
post #5067 of 5304
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcusarilliuS View Post

Would the image be too dark if you ran the lamp in standard mode?
Does it reduce RBE in 2D?

I found picture in 2D with standard lamp mode setting not too dark actually with ND2 filter, but the overall color reproduction and contrast seems to be below my expectations where both become just too dull for my taste. However with lamp set to high and ND2, the picture is crispy but calm with balanced light especially on the scenes with wide dynamic range (dark objects with bright background) which is exactly what I have been looking for. Too bad installing filter is tricky and require Scotch tape for the start. As to RBE, I have to say I forgot about it already since I do not see it anymore, while I used to see it only when purposely quickly panning screen vertically which is not a case for normal viewing. I wonder, if this is a filter or just it never bothered me. But I will try to pan tonight with filter attached and let you know.

*** Update:
Just watched MiB3 in 3D and have to say picture was too dark with ND2 filter so it had to be removed. Still 2D picture with lamp set to bright and ND2 on rocks. biggrin.gif
Edited by esdwa - 12/30/12 at 5:37pm
post #5068 of 5304
Thanks for the feedback, will have to try.

Got my 24hz playback issues sorted finally. Got TMT5 working by disabling SLI. Bit of a pain to have to disable SLI but it's a workaround.

I also backed off my contrast and upped my brightness and the 2d picture is a lot nicer now. Less harsh. RBE is also practically gone too.
I think I had the contrast way too high.
I did set it from the disney calibration disc though, but now I backed it off by eye to what looks correct.
post #5069 of 5304
Trying to figure what screen material to buy for my projector is hurting my head. I have read quite extensively about projector screen material (e.g., spandex). I have a totally dark room and am wanting to get a 120" diagonal screen. The ceiling is white, though. I believe a white screen would be best. If I were to build my own screen, what would be best for the setup I have with my Optoma HD33?
post #5070 of 5304
White ceiling can cause same trouble with contrast and especially black level. In my case for example it forced me to bring projector lumens down by using nd filter or gray screen to compensate for all that light that ceiling was reflecting back to the screen.
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