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New Optoma HD33 HD3300 1080p 3D Projector Review - Page 171

post #5101 of 5232
1/13/13 at 4:27am
Apologies - I don't know where I got the 1.6 from - it's actually 1.2 gain (the center stage xd material).

I'm not sure how the tripod screen would work as the non AT screen would have to sit in front of the speakers (behind the AT screen). Which would work out pretty crap for 3D soundwise.
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post #5102 of 5232
1/13/13 at 7:33am
I have non acoustically transparent (regular) 1.0 gain screen and it rolls down in front of pop audio RTi series speakers. And i do not complain about sound in my setup. The sound is great and dialog centered and clear. There is a slight attenuation in hights but it actually makes sound more cinema like.
It sure may differ from setup to setup bit generally it is worth to try.
Personally I care most for the picture, sound is secondary concern so such compromise works well for me. With recent upgrade from HD33 to hd8300 the picture improvement compensates also to lack of surround speakers which turn to be unecessary in my case.
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post #5103 of 5232
1/13/13 at 1:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

It will be ok for 2D if it is really 1.6 gain (and not a MFR fib), but a big NO for 3D.
Are you saying the gain is too high or too low for 3D? Curious because I'm new to the projector scene and am interested in the HD33.
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post #5104 of 5232
1/13/13 at 2:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by THe_Flash View Post

[...] because I'm new to the projector scene and am interested in the HD33.

With this price range, HD33 has no competition so you do not have to look further if you want best 3D performer without typical to competition issues like Epson or Sony. Brightness is the only thing you consider with HD33 and depending on the room you designate for projection and light conditions you should focus more on getting proper screen rather than projector. What I am trying to say is that touch cant go wrong with HD33 while with screen you can. Depending on the screen size you want to have and light conditions in your pj room (dark bat cave or bright wall living room) you should choose right gain for the job.

For example my pj is installed in typical living room with beige walls and curtains and while ceiling. With 1.0 gain 106" screen size and projection in total darkness 3D looks amazing where picture brightness more cinema like which is exactly what I have been looking for.
Larger screen sizes may or projection with some scaterred light may require higher gain screen.
Edited by esdwa - 1/13/13 at 2:59pm
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post #5105 of 5232
1/13/13 at 3:23pm
This projector is not bright enough for 3D on a 150"+ screen, unless you have 2.0+ gain, but even then I wouldn't bother.
Get a smaller screen or a projector that is brighter in 3D.

This projector is 900-1000 lumens in 3D making it PRETTY bright, but that is not going to handle 150"+ screen. Brightness is subjective, but this is really over-pushing the barriers of screen size for 3D on this projector.
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post #5106 of 5232
1/13/13 at 3:56pm
Indeed, with 106" screen the brightness of HD33 in 3D mode is closer to lower end of acceptable level rather than above medium. With screens above 120" 3D pj selection requires better budget or sacrifice of smaller screen with budget pj like HD33.

I recently measured brightness ofmy HD33
which lamp has 23 hrs only and results were as follow:

925 lm in Bright lamp mode
740 lm in Standard lamp mode

Meter used:
Milwaukee MW 700 Portable Lux Meter
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post #5107 of 5232
1/13/13 at 5:23pm
Thanks for the info. I was looking at a 120" Elite Screen with a gain of 2.0 since I would like to use this for 3D as well. The room only has one window, so light can be somewhat controlled. The walls and ceilings are all white, however.
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post #5108 of 5232
1/13/13 at 7:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by THe_Flash View Post

The walls and ceilings are all white, however.

With that you might experience poor blacks due to lots of reflected and bounced back light. With high gain screen you might want to check usable viewing angle and depending on its value you may find necessary to use dark curtains not only on the back wall but also on a sides of the screen to achieve better black level. Generally bright rooms are difficult to setup unless smaller screen size is ok which allows to use low lumen projector to minimize amount of reflected light.
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post #5109 of 5232
1/14/13 at 1:39am
Thanks eveyone or your replies.

I should also explain further. I was hoping to use the zooming method for 16:9 / 2.37 content (I know the zoom is insuficient to do it properly but I was going to fudge it with small 2" top/bottom black bars on the 2.37 content). Do you think the HD33 is bright enough for 150" in 2D - 1.2 gain AT screen (keeping in mind that I'll only be using a potion of the full image, and therefore I assume brightness will be reduced (that is, the 2.35 image in the 16:9 native format - with the black overspill going onto the boarder)? If not, what do you think the max size would be for 2D content (assuming 1.2 gain)?

What if I used the full 150" only for 2D and zoomed in for the 16:9 size for the 3D (I'm not sure what image size exactly that would work out to - 120" possibly?). Would that give me enough light? Or will I loose further light when zooming? Edit - according to projector central calculator zoomng will allow me155" at 13fL versus zoomed in to 131" at 15fL (both dimensions are for scope).

For reference, I'm currently using a 100" 16:9 DIY blockout cloth screen and the 3D brightness is acceptable (not great, but acceptable) to me (500 hours on lamp). And for 2D I only use low light mode.
Edited by blueEyedFrog - 1/14/13 at 2:06am
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post #5110 of 5232
1/15/13 at 3:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by esdwa View Post

... With screens above 120" 3D pj selection requires better budget or sacrifice of smaller screen with budget pj like HD33.

r

For your recommended 120" max are you talking 16:9 or 2.37:1?
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post #5111 of 5232
1/15/13 at 4:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by blueEyedFrog View Post

For your recommended 120" max are you talking 16:9 or 2.37:1?

HD33 is native 16:9 projector and that is what I am referring to. Cheers
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post #5112 of 5232
1/15/13 at 8:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by cvh View Post

UPDATED 3D AND EMITTER SETTINGS (DECEMBER 2012)

I have been Gone a while from this forum. Sorry. I Just got to a point when there was no need to say anything that has not already been said, asked or answered.

Well, I got the itchy Bug to play with HD33 again just for the Kicks,

So I spent a few days tweaking the HD33 and the BG-3DRF GLASSES again in 3D mode.
I was a little nervous about messing with the emitter, but had to try.

I read the emitter manual online and fine tuned the “Glasses Performance Mode”

I was mainly interested in brightening the glasses lens. In doing so, I was pleasantly surprised at the results.
3 things happened that I was not expecting.

1. The 3D image of course brightened.
2. It also removed that green tint that is so prevalent on the Optoma BG-3DRF Glasses.
3. Also, from top to Bottom, the Lens color was completely uniform. No color shift.Try the Following:

Leave original 3D settings the same as factory default in 3D mode.
Go to User mode and plug in the following Data: After all settings complete, toggle between 3D and USER Mode to see the difference.
Then proceed to tweak the Emitter.
_________________________________

LAMP MODE: BRIGHT
DISPLAY MODE: USER

CONTRAST: +7
BRIGHTNESS: -4
SHARPNESS: 12
COLOR: +12
TINT: 0

ADVANCED:
GAMMA: film
Gamma Curve type: -7
Offset: +1

PURE ENGINE:
Pure Motion: Low
Pure Detail: 1
Pure Color: +2

COLOR SETTINGS:
Color Temp: Medium

RGB BIAS/GAIN:
Red Gain: +2
Green Gain: 0
Blue Gain: +1
Red Bias: +2
Green Bias: 0
Blue Bias: +1

Run a 3D movie with glasses on and the emitter in your hand.
Pause movie where you like.

Push down and hold the Joystick until 2 green LED’s light up.
You’re in “MANUAL TUNING PERFORMANCE MODE”

Move the joy stick to the right to Brighten the Image, or Left to Darken. You'll notice all LED's will be orange.
I moved it all the way to the Right. The Green tint faded and no Color Shifts.

Now, look at the top of your lens and slowly move down to the bottom. You should have no Color Shift. And no green tint.

For testing, Move the Joystick to the left in increments and u will notice the Green tint gets worse and image darkens.

The Emitter LED’s will all be lit up orange still. Don’t worry. In 2 minutes it will save your setting and return to green.

After all steps are followed. you should have a nice bright image, no color shifts and an almost removed green tint in PQ.

This may not work for all of you. Try it at your own risk. It is easy though.

Link to Emitter Manual:

http://www.optomausa.com/webresources/files/support/7b4dbf9df48548a7904cd75ae63e4656.pdf

tried this settings and made the picture brighter. but i noticed that each time i played a 3D bluray, the INVERT SYNC needs to be ON in order for the movie to be watchable. the HD33 does not save the INVERT SYNC to ON all the time so it is very annoying setting it again everytime you watch a 3D movie.

i set the polarity on the emitter to STANDARD but each time i turn the projector again, the setting goes to REVERSE polarity. also did a factory reset on the emitter but to no avail.

anyone know how to set the emitter properly or yet revert back to the original settings.
Edited by weng2x - 1/15/13 at 8:52am
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post #5113 of 5232
1/15/13 at 12:09pm
Copying other settings does not make much sense because depending on the projection room and projector itself their setting may vary. Wall or ceiling colors, screen color tone type and its gain will also vary settings.
Edited by esdwa - 1/15/13 at 12:59pm
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post #5114 of 5232
1/16/13 at 2:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by weng2x View Post

tried this settings and made the picture brighter. but i noticed that each time i played a 3D bluray, the INVERT SYNC needs to be ON in order for the movie to be watchable. the HD33 does not save the INVERT SYNC to ON all the time so it is very annoying setting it again everytime you watch a 3D movie.

i set the polarity on the emitter to STANDARD but each time i turn the projector again, the setting goes to REVERSE polarity. also did a factory reset on the emitter but to no avail.

anyone know how to set the emitter properly or yet revert back to the original settings.


I have exactly the same issue on mine! The polarity keeps inverting itself. I also have the impression that this happened after setting the emitter to manual tuning mode! I would also appreciate any kind of advice!
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post #5115 of 5232
1/16/13 at 12:35pm
This is odd, yesterday I was watching Avatar on my 3300 using dlp link and halfway through the movie the polarity switched. Had to restart the projector.

Also, to the earlier comments on the low contrast settings for some people: my numbers were more standard before I got the co4 firmware. That seemed to change my numbers. Whites get crushed at anything higher than -15 , which is more apparent with a test disc than with most normal viewing.
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post #5116 of 5232
1/16/13 at 8:20pm
Thanks to the feedback and discussion in this thread, I'm sold on the HD33 for my first projector. I'd appreciate any thoughts on setting up the room, I've attached a pic of its layout. I was hoping for a 120" screen on the wall to the left, but am willing to go smaller if necessary. The top right wall has the only window for this room.


Edited by THe_Flash - 1/17/13 at 2:41pm
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post #5117 of 5232
1/18/13 at 2:42pm
any leads in how to correct the invert sync issues. i am so desperate to get a fix as i have to fiddle the remote every time i watch a 3D movie.
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post #5118 of 5232
1/18/13 at 6:42pm
IR RF glasses does not cause any issues so far. Any reason you stick to your dlp link ones?
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post #5119 of 5232
1/19/13 at 5:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by weng2x View Post

any leads in how to correct the invert sync issues. i am so desperate to get a fix as i have to fiddle the remote every time i watch a 3D movie.

I ran into the same issue and what you need to do is go back into manual tuning mode and adjust the delay (up/down on the joystick I think) until you are on the other end of the spectrum (in regards to how many lights are lit up on the emitter) . You should be able to get it to look the same as you had it but the polarity won't have to be inverted through the menu anymore.
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post #5120 of 5232
1/19/13 at 8:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by reechings View Post

I ran into the same issue and what you need to do is go back into manual tuning mode and adjust the delay (up/down on the joystick I think) until you are on the other end of the spectrum (in regards to how many lights are lit up on the emitter) . You should be able to get it to look the same as you had it but the polarity won't have to be inverted through the menu anymore.

thanks.

will try this one out later. do you remember how many LED will lit up on the default setting? i must have moved it all the way up coz i find the picture brighter at that setting.
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post #5121 of 5232
1/20/13 at 8:43am
There is one setting for the shutter opening on the glasses that should make it brighter (left/right on the joystick I think) and that one I have maxed out. The other setting that I am talking about will not really adjust the brightness but will make the image depth change/invert and is kind of crazy on the eyes if you watch the screen as you do it. What I did was pause a scene on the 3D Imax space station movie where there is a black background of space with parts of the station in view. As you adjust the joystick, you will see ghosting appear/disappear around 2 or 3 times (I found it was hard to get the ghosting to disappear %100 but got close). Playing with it this way you will be able to get to a setting where it looks good and the polarity won't have to be inverted through the menu. Sorry for not being more exact (and I may have the directions for the joystick mixed up) but I haven't done it for a while and don't want to mess with it again now.

Cheers
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post #5122 of 5232
1/20/13 at 3:07pm
Ghosting is nothing more than glasses getting out of sync with projector. Switch to IR RF and you won't have that issue again. I do not even use the joystick in fact I never had to use it with ZF2100GLS glasses. Not sure how older models are performing.
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post #5123 of 5232
1/20/13 at 8:57pm
Excluding the 3D, how does this projector compare to the Sony Pearl?
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post #5124 of 5232
1/21/13 at 5:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheChris View Post

I have exactly the same issue on mine! The polarity keeps inverting itself. I also have the impression that this happened after setting the emitter to manual tuning mode! I would also appreciate any kind of advice!

Quote:
Originally Posted by weng2x View Post

thanks.

will try this one out later. do you remember how many LED will lit up on the default setting? i must have moved it all the way up coz i find the picture brighter at that setting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by reechings View Post

I ran into the same issue and what you need to do is go back into manual tuning mode and adjust the delay (up/down on the joystick I think) until you are on the other end of the spectrum (in regards to how many lights are lit up on the emitter) . You should be able to get it to look the same as you had it but the polarity won't have to be inverted through the menu anymore.

Quote:
Originally Posted by esdwa View Post

Ghosting is nothing more than glasses getting out of sync with projector. Switch to IR RF and you won't have that issue again. I do not even use the joystick in fact I never had to use it with ZF2100GLS glasses. Not sure how older models are performing.

Sorry guys for the confusion. I did this as a test. It is kinda tricky. I found that:

Increasing the brightness in manual mode looked great when watching Titanic. I HAD IT ALL THE WAY UP. This also got rid of the green tint. No problems. I went from default and toggled twice up to increase brightness until i noticed green tint fading and no ghosting. IT INCREASES THE BRIGHTNESS nicely and image looked more natural.

Then I watched another movie the next day I HAD TERRIBLE GHOSTING. It may vary from movie to movie. Titanic was all the way up and picture was amazing. Nice and bright.
So, when increasing brightness, it leads to more ghosting the higher u go up.

The lower you go the picture turns a nasty green color tint. so the key is to toggle the joy stick until u hit a happy median.

So in order to reset to default is really easy.Make sure all adjusting is done with ur glasses on and a 3D movie is in pause.

Press the joystick down and hold it until the 1st green led lights up. CONTINUE holding it down until it cycles to the last green LED. as soon as the last LED lights, release the joystick right away before it cycles back to the 1st LED.
With Glasses on and letting go of the joystick when it hits top LED will reset Emitter to default. U will notice the glasses cycle until picture corrects itself.

If you want to default your RF Optomas, press and hold the power button and do not let it go until the red light finally starts blinking really rapidly. as soon as it begins to blink really fast, let go of the power button. This will reset Glasses to Factory default.
It might be a good idea to reset glasses and emitter at the same time to default all back together.

The polarity is very similar. Hold down the Joystick until the fist green led lights up. continue to hold it down until 5th green led is on. One down from the very top LED. let go of joystick on Five.
This will put you in polarity mode. With glasses on, u will notice there is is either 2 orange leds on or three.

Turn glasses upside down, and if image is corrected, polarity is reversed. press the joystick directly in and leds will switch to 3 or 2, depending which one came on first.

REPEAT pressing in until the image is corrected. Once u see the correct polarity, let go of the joystick and it will time out in 125 secs. don't do anything to the emitter. you can still watch 3d content.. manual link below.

http://www.optomausa.com/webresources/files/support/7b4dbf9df48548a7904cd75ae63e4656.pdf
Edited by cvh - 1/22/13 at 8:06am
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post #5125 of 5232
1/22/13 at 7:29am
Hey folks,

I have just installed the Optoma HD33 - and it works fine while watching Bluray 3D.

When it comes to watching a channel like Sky 3D, I switch the beamer to SBS mode and it makes quite a lot of noise. This noise (fan?) persists throughout. Last night, I watched for around 45 minutes, after which the beamer went dark and switched back to 2D mode (showing parallel pictures side by side) on its own.

Does anyone else have this behaviour? What am I doing wrong?

Please help!
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post #5126 of 5232
1/22/13 at 12:25pm
This is normal. The projector runs hotter in 3D mode and increases the fan speed.
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post #5127 of 5232
1/22/13 at 11:47pm
Hey guys! Any of you noticing extreme picture-noise when it comes to dark images in which blue is involved?? I especially noticed that a couple of nights ago while watching POTC: On Stranger Tides 3D, but also with other movies. In 3D and 2D likewise. This goes way beyond normal film grain, so I suppose this cant be right and some setting has to be messed up. Got an HD3300 hocked up to a Pana BDT320 BD-Player. Have any of you noticed similar behavior on one of your Optomas?
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post #5128 of 5232
1/23/13 at 4:58am
I mentioned another picture anomaly a few posts back and never received any feedback on it. The DarkChip2 may be showing its limitations to keen observers. I didn't expect the ultimate in picture quality at this price point, you just notice stuff when the image is 100" plus.


POST #5097 (edit - more information added)

I see posterization of fine gradients between red and orange. Lowering the contrast "fixes" this but is there any other way? Also note that adjusting the brightness has an effect also.

See it in multiple scenes of Dredd 3D Blu-ray when "Slow-Mo" drug is used and with fire flames out of focus in the background in one scene in particular, the orange rubber gloves on the mechanic from the TV show Wheeler Dealer (DirecTV), commercials with red to orange gradients and on PC with certain (not all) test patterns that feature a rainbow gradient with red to orange in them. The Ellen Show skin tones.

The default settings on my C04 firmware projector seem to strike a balance the best they can. Turning off all PureEngine settings and adjusting Contrast and Brightness both to -6 totally remove the posterization on my projector but I don't like the overall resulting look and I'm not in an ideal projector setting. Adjusting either setting from these points will re-introduce the the posterization or color banding again.

Am I asking too much of the DarkChip2? I do know the DarkChip3 in my 92" Mitsubishi I sold did a better job with contrast and gradients than this projector or any RPTV I had before.

Any help or advice would be appreciated.
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post #5129 of 5232
1/23/13 at 10:46am
Given my budget, I'm probably going to purchase a 120" fixed frame Elite Screen. I'm setting up in a roughly 21x13 room (pic posted on #5116). Should I go with the standard Cinewhite, or the 1.8 gain? I do enjoy watching 3D and thought the 1.8 would assist with brightness.
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post #5130 of 5232
1/24/13 at 1:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Hester View Post

I mentioned another picture anomaly a few posts back and never received any feedback on it. The DarkChip2 may be showing its limitations to keen observers. I didn't expect the ultimate in picture quality at this price point, you just notice stuff when the image is 100" plus.


POST #5097 (edit - more information added)

I see posterization of fine gradients between red and orange. Lowering the contrast "fixes" this but is there any other way? Also note that adjusting the brightness has an effect also.

See it in multiple scenes of Dredd 3D Blu-ray when "Slow-Mo" drug is used and with fire flames out of focus in the background in one scene in particular, the orange rubber gloves on the mechanic from the TV show Wheeler Dealer (DirecTV), commercials with red to orange gradients and on PC with certain (not all) test patterns that feature a rainbow gradient with red to orange in them. The Ellen Show skin tones.

The default settings on my C04 firmware projector seem to strike a balance the best they can. Turning off all PureEngine settings and adjusting Contrast and Brightness both to -6 totally remove the posterization on my projector but I don't like the overall resulting look and I'm not in an ideal projector setting. Adjusting either setting from these points will re-introduce the the posterization or color banding again.

Am I asking too much of the DarkChip2? I do know the DarkChip3 in my 92" Mitsubishi I sold did a better job with contrast and gradients than this projector or any RPTV I had before.

Any help or advice would be appreciated.


I seem to have found the source, at least of my,problem. I had the HDMI Colour Space option on my BD-Player switched to YCbCr 4:4:4. Changing it to RGB seems to have eliminated the artifacts that I was seeing in particular dark scenes. Hower I only gave it a try under daylight conditions so far, but will conduct a test later during night time. The picture seems overall to be a bit darker with the Player giving out through RGB. I'm very excited to see how the picture looks tonight.wink.gif

Perhaps give it a try and see if it also helps you! Good luck!!
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