New Optoma HD33 HD3300 1080p 3D Projector Review - Page 32

my 6700 worked flawlessly and I did not have to set it to SBS mode...might want to search for an AVS thread for 6800...also upgrading the BD FW may help

I have BD-C6900 (2010 model) it doesn't do 2D to 3D. I thought it was only the 2011 "D" models. I might be wrong.


mark

Thanks to Benito @ AVS, my new 3300 should be on the way and may even make it to me by the weekend (fingers crossed). Benito was great/knowledgeable and I'm always happy to support forums like these.

I'm doing an "ass backwards" theater build where I'm buying all of my equipment first (now have the AV gear, screen & PJ, seats next) and then I'll put it in the space in my basement and then get a feel for things. Mostly, this is due to this being my first theater and I'd rather screw something up BEFORE it's too late (i.e. the drywall is up).

Anyway, for my 120" screen, this PJ needs to be 9.4" above the screen when mounted on the ceiling about 14' away. Since these dimensions aren't standard across all projectors (which would obviously make for a "standard" mount), how do you handle 1/10's of an inch when it comes to mounts? I've seen vertically adjustable mounts that come with two different sized tubes, but what if neither is the right size? Spacers on the mounting screws? Or does it not have to be EXACTLY 9.6"?

My apologies for what is probably an obvious answer but I'm just not seeing it. And I can't wait to get this PJ!

6700 converts 2D into frame sequential 3D...seems 6800 is not doing that ? do you see double image before you put on glasses ?

Some more info from Bit Couldron about the RF glasses.

http://www.marketwatch.com/story/opt...102-2011-09-06

Is this the new RF glasses BG-3DRF Glasses ?

Thanks

if you don't care about 2D->3D you may want to checkout panasonic BD310 with which you get Avatar 3D for free

OK, I have both the Optoma RF glasses and the Optoma DLP-Link glasses and here is what I found experimenting with them on the HD33.

Basically, the difference is VERY minor. Both types of glasses work fine. Image quality is about the same on both with maybe a slight edge to the RF glasses but VERY slight.

If you already have invested in DLP-Link glasses and don't want to spend the money on the new RF glasses, don't worry about it. You are not missing much.

Anyone here upgrading form HD65 to HD3300/HD33 ? Will the ceiling mount for HD65 work with HD3300/HD33?

Thanks

Thanks Chris, I have 7 pair of DLP Link glasses!

If any of you have nvidia or 3dtvcorp's RF glasses - can you check whether they work with Optoma's emitters ?

[quote=Stinky Pinky;20946154]Thanks to Benito @ AVS, my new 3300 should be on the way and may even make it to me by the weekend (fingers crossed). Benito was great/knowledgeable and I'm always happy to support forums like these.

I'm doing an "ass backwards" theater build where I'm buying all of my equipment first (now have the AV gear, screen & PJ, seats next) and then I'll put it in the space in my basement and then get a feel for things. Mostly, this is due to this being my first theater and I'd rather screw something up BEFORE it's too late (i.e. the drywall is up).

Anyway, for my 120" screen, this PJ needs to be 9.4" above the screen when mounted on the ceiling about 14' away. Since these dimensions aren't standard across all projectors (which would obviously make for a "standard" mount), how do you handle 1/10's of an inch when it comes to mounts? I've seen vertically adjustable mounts that come with two different sized tubes, but what if neither is the right size? Spacers on the mounting screws? Or does it not have to be EXACTLY 9.6"?


Most mounts use a 1 1/2 inch NT threaded piece of pipe (painted nicely with some adjustment capability, its called a pole). This pole screws into the projector mount and into a ceiling flange. Home depot sells the proper threaded pipe in various short lengths. Some length adjustment is available in the sockets the pipe threads into. I wouldn't worry about being a 1/4 of an inch off. Any slight geometric distortion would not be noticeable especially with a small amount iof overscan.

I finally got the RF glasses and was too eager to try it...only to be disappointed....here are some observations

1) RF glasses are slightly bigger than Optoma-DLP-link (which are also quite big to start with compared to the panasonic glasses, so not really a big deal)

2) They are almost the same shade as DLP-link

3) They are lighter and fold...so will be easier to store (however I concur with a very early poster about hinge life being questionable in the long run)

the bad stuff:

4) I see the RF have refractive index (lense thickness) that varies quite a bit across the lens...so what this means is if you see image quality vary as you look at the same spot on the screen while slightly moving your head...this really is not acceptable to me...Optoma-DLP-link are very flat and have same thickness so you wont remember you are wearing a glass after a while

5) believe it or not, I saw cross talk with RF glasses !!!!!! I swapped btween the two to be doubly sure, but DLP-link had no such issue...this was during the IMAX logo at the beginning of Hubble 3D...also Image looked less poppy with RF...I will compare more movies to see how prevalent this is

6) surprisingly when you set the PJ to DLP-link mode, RF glasses still work, but they dont remove the red-sync-frame so image looks slightly reddish...however I was disappointed to see that RF needed frame invert which is not the case with DLP-link, so you cant use them together in that sense

7) while the DLP-link never once swapped L/R, I saw that with RF it does.....this sucks

8) RF clearly had more flicker...with DLP-link its hardly noticeable....infact I like the fact the DLP-link will stop shuttering once you go to kitchen to get something to drink as they become brighter...they sync back to PJ the instant you return to your seat and look at the screen...this is very desirable functionality

9) all the complaints I had with DLP-link with my old HD66 are non issues with HD33 as Optoma did a fantastic job in integrating DLP-link this time around

bottom line, looks like the hype about RF has evaporated for me and I will be sticking to cheaper but extremely well working DLP-link glasses

Falafala: We need more reviews like this. Thanks.

Do you know how to use the tuning mode for the RF glasses?

Adjust Duty Cycle and Delay settings for best picture. There is also
a polarity reversal function built into the firmware of the RF transmitter.

See the RF glasses operation manual.

I'm only mentioning this because you didn't indicate you tried to tune or reverse polarity in your comments. Hope this helps.

I did not see any difference in tinting.



I did not notice this.


I noticed a slight amount of crosstalk as well but only if my head was tilted back and looking at the screen through the bottom portion of the glasses. Other than that, no crosstalk at all.


I had that happen as well. I needed to turn on frame invert.


This did not happen to me at all!


I have to disagree with this. I noticed no more flicker than DLP link.

Which DLP Link glasses are these (3dtvcorp ?).


Now I've to seriously consider whether to buy 2 RF glasses for $180 or 2 DLP glasses for $100.

Now that my HD3300 has shipped, I need to decide in a day or two.

I only tried Optoma BG-ZD101, cant vouch for any other brand

I didnt know this..let me look for it....

even if i get the cross-talk eliminated, I am not happy about the varying thickness of the lense....this is not good for the eyes

We do have the new 3D contact lenses that are easier on your eyes

More and more of these are getting out in the wild. So there should be lots of owner reviews popping up soon.

Anyone else tried any other DLP Link glasses ?

Received my HD33 last night.

Still have to do some personal calibration, just plugged in guitarmans settings (good by the way!) an just tested the hell out of it.

The 2D content blew my W600+ and HD66 out of the water. Sharpness was off the hook and the blacks were very nice and better then I expected (newbie projector junkie, maybe never seeing "top-o-the-line" is a plus here)

3d was really immersive and clear. iMax ocean wonderland 3d was just plain crazy. Tron 3d and ice age 3d were really nice. Checked out killzone 3, Resistance 3, God of war Origins, Motor-storm pacific rift and MLB the show, all were stellar in 3d.

Used 3D heaven DLP link glasses and they worked quite well and only had to invert sync once (with the amount of jumping around i did I was impressed)

Red tint in 3D was not visible with the 3d heaven glasses (and the red tint is RED, not light)

The mooing wheel is now a running joke between me and my wife (although she attests that it sounds like something dying over a moo).

The only gripes I have is 3D, for me, needs to be a bit brighter (I'd chalk that up to a gain issue on my screen, not the projector) and I might have to exchange this one and in pitch black or flat white images I see what can only be described as a LCD style dust blob in the upper right hand corner.

Once I have the weekend to test her proper, I'll post more stuffs and screens.

Seems like a winner in my picky book.

Owners of these projectors who use DLPLink glasses, please tell whether 3D videos start with the correct eye 50% of the time as had always been the case with the HD66, or if somehow Optoma found a way to have most of the videos start with the correct eye most of the time. Could someone start a video say 10 times and note how many times the eyes were correct vs. reversed?

I would not expect that L-R would ever reverse after a video started.

Valid w/the DMP-BDT110 as well, which is only around $100.

Also, when a few people are watching, can some of the glasses have L-R reverseed and others not ? In that case how do you correct the problem ?